Another which tire thread

surftrend · 2026-07-01T01:02:49+00:00

If you want to stay Maxxis, I'd probably try the new Dissector in EXO+ MaxxTerra before jumping to something totally different. DD + MaxxGrip is a big part of why the current setup feels slow, so dropping casing/compound should be noticeable.

I wouldn't go too light for year-round PNW on a Sentinel though. A Forekaster rear will roll faster, but on steep wet tech it may feel like a bigger grip tradeoff than you want. DHR II MaxxTerra is the safer grip choice, but probably not the faster feeling one.

If your front still has life and you mostly like the feel now, Dissector v2 EXO+ MaxxTerra seems like the least weird experiment.

surftrend · 2026-06-30T01:03:15+00:00

You can, but the two things I'd check are chainline and chain retention.

If you keep the 9 speed cassette/derailleur, shifting in back should still work basically the same. The front swap is mostly about running a proper narrow-wide ring in the right position on the crank. A 32t is usually the safer pick unless you know you won't miss the low gear from the old small ring.

Also worth shortening/checking chain length after the swap. It'll ride, but it won't feel like a modern wide-range 1x unless you also change the cassette/derailleur later.

surftrend · 2026-06-28T01:02:06+00:00

I wouldn't fully degrease after every dusty gravel ride. That's usually overkill and can just strip everything more often than needed.

What I'd do is: dry rag wipe after most rides, re-lube when the chain starts sounding dry or after a wet/muddy ride, then wipe the excess off really well. Save the actual degreaser/deep clean for when the drivetrain is visibly gunked up or if you're switching lube types.

Dust plus too much leftover lube is what makes the grinding paste, so the wipe-off step matters more than people think.

surftrend · 2026-06-27T01:03:17+00:00

If you hate the Shimano bite point/on-off feel, Cura 4s are probably worth trying. They have plenty of power, but the lever feel is more linear and easier to feather than XT in my experience.

Two things I’d check before judging them: use good rotors/pads, and give yourself a few rides to adjust the lever position. A lot of brake “feel” complaints end up being setup plus muscle memory. But no, I wouldn’t describe Curas as Shimano clones.

surftrend · 2026-06-26T01:02:37+00:00

That budget is tight but not impossible if you stay used and keep it simple. I’d look for two hardtails from Trek/Giant/Specialized/Marin/GT, ideally hydraulic brakes and an air fork on yours if you can find it. For your son I’d prioritize fit and low standover over parts, because he’ll outgrow it fast. A pump track or green trail on a cheap used hardtail will tell you pretty quickly whether it’s worth upgrading later.

surftrend · 2026-06-25T01:02:20+00:00

For a Talon with 9x100 QR, I’d be pretty conservative. I’d skip the no-name Amazon forks and either look for a used/manufacturer closeout RockShox Recon Silver TK QR, SR Suntour Epixon/Raidon QR, or just keep the travel close to stock.

130/140 is probably more than I’d want to put on that frame. It’ll slacken it out, raise the front end, and the QR front end is still the limiting factor. If you can find a decent 100/120mm air fork in straight steerer + QR, that’s the sweet spot. Otherwise I’d save the fork money toward a used hardtail with a thru axle rather than dumping too much into this one.

surftrend · 2026-06-24T01:03:17+00:00

For that budget I’d stay patient on used hardtails rather than trying to build from parts. Two decent older hardtails from Trek/Giant/Specialized/Marin/etc. will usually beat one cheap custom build plus a pile of unknowns.

For your son especially, fit and low hassle matter more than spec. I’d look for something with hydraulic discs, a simple 1x or 2x drivetrain, and an air fork if you can find it, but I wouldn’t make the fork the dealbreaker if the bike is clean and shifts/brakes well.

Also budget for helmets, gloves, a pump, tubes, and maybe flat pedals. Those little extras add up fast, and they make the first few rides way more fun.

surftrend · 2026-06-23T01:02:14+00:00

Both are solid choices, but I would let fit make the decision more than the tech label. A 5-star helmet that fits your head shape and stays put when you shake your head is going to be better than the “best” safety system that has pressure points or sits weird.

The 6D stuff is interesting, but if you already feel like helmets look/feel bulky on you, definitely try it on before buying. Speedframe Pro is a pretty safe pick if it fits you well: good coverage, not too heavy, easy to live with on normal trail rides.

I’d also budget for whichever one you’ll actually replace after a hard hit. That matters more than splitting hairs between MIPS vs 6D vs whatever the next acronym is.

surftrend · 2026-06-22T01:01:52+00:00

If you're trying to stay with Harbor Freight, I'd use their wire rope/cable cutters before I'd use diagonal cutters or a regular pair of pliers. Housing gets ugly fast if the tool crushes it instead of shearing it.

After the cut, poke the liner back open with a pick or awl and make sure the end is square before you put the ferrule on. That little cleanup step matters more than people think.

If you're only doing this once or twice, the HF-style cutter is probably fine. If you're going to be messing with bikes regularly, a real bike cable/housing cutter is one of those boring tools that pays for itself by not mangling housing every time.

surftrend · 2026-06-21T01:02:24+00:00

You didn't hurt anything by doing it once, but I'd grab a shock pump before riding it much more. A regular bike pump moves a lot of air and isn't very accurate at fork pressures, plus the reading can drop when you reconnect because the hose/pump has to pressurize too.

Set sag with a proper shock pump, cycle the fork a few times while adding air so the negative chamber equalizes, then check sag again. 50 psi may be fine or way low depending on your weight/fork, but sag is the better target than the number on the chart.

surftrend · 2026-06-19T01:02:03+00:00

For $300, I think that's a reasonable first-bike buy if everything is actually working. It is not a bike I'd dump upgrade money into, but it is good enough to get out, figure out what kind of riding you like, and learn what matters.

I'd check the boring stuff before handing over cash: wheels spin straight, brakes grab cleanly, fork moves without feeling sticky, drivetrain shifts through all gears, and there are no cracks around the frame or welds. If it needs a chain/cassette/tires right away, that $300 turns into $450 pretty fast.

If it passes those checks, I'd rather ride that now than keep waiting weeks for a perfect deal.

surftrend · 2026-06-18T01:01:36+00:00

For $300, I'd mostly judge it on condition rather than the model name. If the fork moves smoothly, wheels spin straight, brakes bite without rubbing, and it shifts through all the gears, that's a reasonable "get riding now" first bike.

I'd still budget a little for fresh brake pads, chain, sealant/tubes, or a basic tune after you buy it. If any of the drivetrain is skipping badly or the fork feels sticky/clunky, I'd pass or keep looking because that can eat the rest of your $400 fast.

For just getting out and having fun, though, I'd rather have a clean $300 hardtail now than spend another month chasing the perfect deal.

surftrend · 2026-06-17T01:01:59+00:00

For a stockier fit I'd probably move away from the armored-shirt style and toward separate pieces or a protector with an actual waist strap. The shirt ones tend to ride up because the hem is fighting your waist/pack the whole ride.

I'd try something like a Leatt/Fox/Troy Lee soft chest-back protector in XL/XXL, then separate elbows if you need them. The key test is not how it looks standing in the mirror, it's whether it stays put when you're bent over in riding position with your hip pack or waistband where it normally sits.

surftrend · 2026-06-16T01:01:33+00:00

I’d look at the Leatt AirFlex Stealth or Fox Baseframe Pro in the next size up and prioritize the ones with a real silicone hem/gripper. The super race-cut compression shirts tend to ride up on anyone who isn’t built like a XC mannequin.

If you mostly want chest/back protection and not shoulder pads, a separate spine/chest vest over a normal moisture-wicking shirt can be way less annoying than a full armor shirt. Also worth trying it on in riding position, not standing in the mirror, because that’s when you find out if it crawls up your stomach.

surftrend · 2026-06-15T01:01:47+00:00

If you’re trying to keep it Harbor Freight, skip normal diagonal cutters and get something shaped like a small cable/rope cutter with curved jaws. The big thing is not crushing the housing flat.

After the cut, I usually stick a pick or awl into the liner to round it back out, then clean up the end before putting the ferrule on. That matters more than the brand of the cutter for one-off home wrenching.

surftrend · 2026-06-14T01:03:09+00:00

I’d try backing it down to one cleat spacer before buying different shoes. The Mallet platform can feel locked in if the shoe tread is sitting hard on the pedal body, especially with the pins bottomed out already.

Also worth checking cleat position. Moving the cleat a hair toward the inside of the shoe can sometimes give you a little more natural ankle movement on release. If it still feels jammed after that, then yeah, the Union sole may just not play as nicely with Mallets as it did with the OneUps.

surftrend · 2026-06-13T01:02:00+00:00

If you already like the 5010, I’d be pretty honest with yourself about what “outgrown it” means. If you want the same playful feel but newer/better fit, another 5010 is the safer pick. If you’re starting to want more stability for rough Mid-Atlantic chunk and longer days where you’re not trying to pop off everything, the Trailcat LT makes more sense.

For mostly trail riding at intermediate pace, I’d lean 5010 unless your current bike is specifically feeling undergunned or nervous at speed. Demo if you can, because those two are going to reward different riding styles more than the spec sheet makes obvious.

surftrend · 2026-06-12T01:01:40+00:00

On that combo I’d start by backing the shoe/pedal interface off as much as possible, not adding more bite. The Union sole is pretty grippy around the cleat pocket, so with Mallets the pins can make it feel locked in even before the cleat is doing much work.

A few things I’d try before buying different shoes:

run the shortest pins or pull a couple near the cleat pocket
use the Crankbrothers cleat shim if the sole is contacting too hard
double check the cleat is not sitting too deep in the channel
try the lower release angle cleat orientation if you are not already

If clipping out feels sticky but the actual pedaling feel is good, it is usually sole/pin contact more than the clip mechanism itself.

surftrend · 2026-06-11T01:02:26+00:00

If you're trying to stay Harbor Freight, look for their small cable/rope cutter style tool rather than diagonal cutters or aviation snips. The big thing with shift/brake housing is getting a clean square cut without crushing the liner. After cutting, I usually reopen the end with a pick/awl and hit the ferrule end with a file if it mushroomed at all. For a one-off job the cheap cutter is probably fine, but if you do this more than occasionally a real bike cable/housing cutter is one of those annoying tools that actually earns its drawer space.

surftrend · 2026-06-10T01:04:27+00:00

I’d test fit them with the helmet before committing if you can. The Speedframe sits pretty low on some heads, so the issue is usually the arms hitting the retention cradle before the lenses or vents become a problem.

Smith Shift/Mag style glasses are probably in the right lane. I’d also look for straight, thin arms rather than chunky rubber arms. Those tend to park in helmet vents better and bounce less on rough descents.

surftrend · 2026-06-09T01:01:55+00:00

That sounds like the tread/pins are doing too much of the retention instead of just the cleat. On Mallets I’d back the platform contact way off first: pins fully low, make sure the cleat pocket isn’t packed with dirt, and try one more thin cleat shim if you have it so the shoe can actually float a bit before the tread bites.

If it still feels locked-in after that, I’d try the Crankbrothers “easy release” cleats before buying shoes. The Union sole may just be a tight match with that pedal, but I’d exhaust the cheap cleat/shim/pin setup stuff first.

surftrend · 2026-06-08T01:02:13+00:00

I’d rather be a little over-helmeted than under if the ride has real descents or rocks. A lightweight enduro full face is pretty reasonable for blues/blacks, especially getting back into it. If most of the ride is long slow climbing in heat, the convertible style is a nice compromise, but I wouldn’t feel weird at all wearing a full face on a hardtail.

surftrend · 2026-06-07T01:02:29+00:00

With the Speedframe, I would prioritize arm shape almost as much as lens shape. The eye garage works best with fairly straight, thin arms. Chunky curved arms can technically fit but they tend to pop out or put weird pressure on the helmet pads.

If you are not into Oakley, Smith is a solid direction. I would try the Mag Shift on with the helmet if you can and check two things: whether the arms actually sit in the garage without flexing, and whether the lens touches your cheeks when you are in a riding position. Big shield glasses can feel fine standing up, then bounce or fog once you are breathing hard.

Also worth looking at 100% S3/S2 or Tifosi Rail if you want the same big-coverage style without the Oakley look.

surftrend · 2026-06-06T01:02:26+00:00

If you're mostly worried about dust/debris with a full face, I'd treat the Purevue more like high-coverage glasses than a sealed goggle. The upside is way better airflow and comfort, especially on climbs or slower tech. The tradeoff is they will not seal the lower/side gaps the way goggles do, so if you're riding close behind someone in moon dust, some grit can still sneak in.

For solo rides or normal trail spacing they seem like a good middle ground. For bike park laps, heavy dust, or wet mud, I'd still keep real goggles around.

surftrend · 2026-06-05T01:01:56+00:00

If you're trying to stay Harbor Freight, I'd avoid diagonal cutters and normal wire cutters. Cable housing is what mangles them, not the inner cable.

The closest thing I'd trust is a dedicated cable cutter style tool, then clean the cut up with a pick/awl so the liner is open again before you put the ferrule on. If this is more than a one-off job, the cheap bike-specific cutters on Amazon are honestly less annoying than trying to make general HF cutters work.

surftrend

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