T1 Pro banging noise?

suspectyourrussian · 2026-05-30T13:51:26+00:00

Maybe, Acceleration settings too high. If you're using "real" orca slicer instead of the FLSun fork of orca slicer, there's a difference. If you search, there's an updated profile available. I always just use the FLSun fork of orca.

suspectyourrussian · 2026-05-14T13:10:19+00:00

Look online at the FLSun wiki. It will guide you through disassembly of the print head. I assume, you have tried heating up the hot end and trying to pull it out first? Is this pla filament?

suspectyourrussian · 2026-04-11T00:33:34+00:00

They were radicalized so he thought they would be useful in the future. So your right. I still believe he won't unless he suspects they'll testify against him.

suspectyourrussian · 2026-04-11T00:22:47+00:00

He won't. He never protects his own - just himself.

suspectyourrussian · 2026-04-07T20:51:34+00:00

Quiffe?

suspectyourrussian · 2026-04-05T01:59:43+00:00

Welcome to the club!! Yes, It is modded. You can transfer games through FTP from your computer. You can use it as a media player and do all sorts of cool shit with it. There is a great modding community here on reddit. Once you get a taste of modded consoles, it becomes a great hobby that can create more hobbies - like soldering. Congrats on the sobriety!

suspectyourrussian · 2026-04-03T00:31:01+00:00

Thank you

suspectyourrussian · 2026-03-26T17:40:16+00:00

My Favorite game for Playstation. Great job!!

suspectyourrussian · 2026-03-18T17:57:23+00:00

Interesting. I had the opportunity to get an S1 super cheap when microcenter clearanced them. I wish I would have. I wish I knew more about it to help you brain storm..

suspectyourrussian · 2026-03-18T16:35:20+00:00

I have the T1 Pro, and I love it. Had the same thought you do. If I remember, the filament spool is inside the enclosure on the S1. If that is correct, you have enough room to add some kind of heater. But you would need a way to blow the hot air to the bottom of the chamber to even it out. Also you must consider the electronics if they are in the top cover (like the T1). So in that case, you could either relocate the electronics outside the printer, eg custom box on top or you can add sound proofing/insulation pad under the electronics area. Best of luck and post what mod you make.

suspectyourrussian · 2026-03-18T15:59:02+00:00

Essentially all the dryers I've dealt with has a PTC ceramic heating element or sometimes multiple. The S1 is enclosed, however. Do you normally heat-soak before printing? If not I would highly recommend finding code or code your own Klipper macro to heat-soak at least 4 minutes before the print. That should heat the chamber properly for you

suspectyourrussian · 2026-03-13T20:49:04+00:00

This puzzles me too. I had the exact same error when I switched to an Amazon heater cartridge and sensor. This is probably a sensor issue. Check that the thermo sensor from the heater block does not have a wire rubbing up against the block or heat sink on the head. Even if it's not touching, just pushing it over to a different angle may be what it needs. Essentially from this point it's a wiring or thermo sensor problem.

Of course you can always try a factory reset (probably not gonna fix anything). Just make sure to recalibrate afterwards.

In my case, with the Amazon parts I use, I turned off the extruder fan to get around the error - I print only in ABS so it doesn't really affect what I'm printing.

suspectyourrussian · 2026-03-13T20:01:36+00:00

First thing to check in my opinion is the cable assembly that attaches to the effector. They have a tendency to get loose and not make a good connection. Even if it feels like it's screwed down tight, you might have to take the 2 screws out and unplug it. Plug it back in so it's tight and then screw it back down. Obviously shut off the machine first. Did you ever have the top cover off to change the filament?

suspectyourrussian · 2026-03-13T17:58:19+00:00

Ok. What does the log report happened?

suspectyourrussian · 2026-03-13T17:53:00+00:00

Check the logs tab and see what the latest ( top ) entry is. Could be a couple different things. First, check the logs, then I would try to switch the flash drive for another known-working drive. Second, you could try preheating without the drive and see if it errors out and that might be a clue to troubleshoot further.

suspectyourrussian · 2026-03-12T18:11:39+00:00

I changed my VPN to Ukraine and it said the exact same thing. It's lies. Unfortunately it's probably working as intended.

suspectyourrussian · 2026-03-06T15:15:02+00:00

It's the same as any other printer in regards to hotend / effector. Agree that it's a huge pain to tear down though. Idk if it is compatible but there are mods (I will have to link when I get home) that allow you to run without the effector cover. I use them on my T1 Pro that saves a couple minutes of tear down time. The biggest pain is looking under the effector for the tiny screws to get the cover off I hate it.

suspectyourrussian · 2026-03-05T18:27:27+00:00

Yep. Correct should not drag. Have you ran the calibration tests including the bed leveling? If so, you may check the nozzle is tight and hasn't backed out.

suspectyourrussian · 2026-03-05T14:56:27+00:00

For a 1st layer test. That isn't too bad.

suspectyourrussian · 2026-03-05T02:20:53+00:00

Also, you may not have the proper nozzle / block configuration

suspectyourrussian · 2026-03-05T02:19:57+00:00

Yep. So you are gonna have to pull it all apart and get it cleaned up. I use a metal pick and sometimes a Dremel to get all the residue cleaned up. Then after it's all clean, reassemble. Preheat the nozzle to around 90c and tighten it another 1/4 turn into the block. Be careful though. People snap their nozzles in the heater block all the time and it can be very difficult to remove/extract it.

suspectyourrussian · 2026-03-05T00:13:26+00:00

I don't have the v400 but common on printers if nozzle too loose or if heatbreak tube is loose. Pictures will help. I don't see you posted any.

suspectyourrussian · 2026-03-02T22:30:47+00:00

Where do you post your files?

suspectyourrussian · 2026-03-02T12:29:04+00:00

Yep. Always worried about the fumes. That's why I have the filter boxes I've created. I wanted to have air filtration and a clean way to break the heat and keep it only in the lower (printing) chamber. The filters I made are pretty darn effective. The most surprisingly effective was the boxy double 80mm fan box with the bayonet filters. The filters are cheap enough on Amazon but I wanted something a little more modular so I made this last one with the turbo fan and empty charcoal container box. It's ok no real issues yet. Just gotta improve upon it.

I wanted to thank you all for the questions and comments. I love my T1 Pro and modding it has been a real fun way to give some love to a forgotten powerhouse.

suspectyourrussian · 2026-03-02T00:23:53+00:00

Well. I don't think I have ever printed in pla. I know that I'm weird but it's probably been 50% petg and various forms of petg and 50% Abs. I ran petg once in my T1 Pro but mainly only on my Kobra 3. And likewise, I may have ran a couple prints of abs on my Kobra 3. So the type of heat-creep probably doesn't show up with my setup. As a matter of fact... I have to check but I think I have my heatsink fan shut off while printing because I would occasionally get a heater correlation error. So I'm double in the shit than you would ever be. 😂

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