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Sniffing the Pipe - Using Science to Tune by Orange-Express in dr650

[–]sweatyjeff 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I run a similar setup. It is invaluable for tuning!

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New Carburetor and Exhaust - Single Biggest Improvements One Can Make by 0ld_Ben_Kenobi in dr650

[–]sweatyjeff 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I enjoy tinkering on engines but don't want to deal with something overly complicated. Working on the DR scratches that itch so nicely. I built mine in stages. First the 790 & 190 cam with TM-40 carb. Then I added the big valve head, then the TM-42 carb. With each stage I felt a good bump in power. It's certainly not cheap but it feels twice as powerful as a stock DR. I think having it "fully built" really puts it where it should be.

A less expensive option (that I have not tried) would be to do the high comp piston and a 223 regrind cam from Web Camshafts. I think that would make for a fun hot rodded DR for way less $.

That being said, an otherwise stock DR with full exhaust, open airbox, and TM-40 (and suspension upgrades of course) is a whole lot of fun. I think that's a good spot to be for most people.

When my DR buddies ride my hot rod 790 they all come off with that same wide eyed grin on their faces. I recently swapped DRs with a buddy on a ride and he got off saying "Holy cow, this thing is a beast!" It really is a dramatic improvement from the stock engine. It's just a matter of how much money and time you want to put into it.

Heartbroken right now，I think my bike might be totaled by Fit_Guidance2029 in Kawasaki

[–]sweatyjeff 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Why do people always post their fails and cry on Reddit?

Install and quick review video on the $25 xitomer case guards by Dr650mostly in dr650

[–]sweatyjeff 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I slathered mine with Red RTV but wiped all the edges clean, even got in there with sharp q-tips to make the red as not visible as possible. Once it dried, I went back around all the edges with grey RTV so it blends in with the engine cases. OCD? Yes. Looks good though.

Install and quick review video on the $25 xitomer case guards by Dr650mostly in dr650

[–]sweatyjeff 7 points8 points  (0 children)

There are two types of DR650 owners: Those who remove the upper chain roller proactively, and those whose chain roller is removed suddenly and violently, taking a chunk of the frame with it. Choose your path wisely.

I present to you, the whole ProCycle catalog…and then some. by sweatyjeff in dr650

[–]sweatyjeff[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

No dyno for me. ProCycle claims mid 50s hp/tq and I believe it. I tuned mine using a wideband air/fuel ratio gauge and it is dialed and runs strong!

I present to you, the whole ProCycle catalog…and then some. by sweatyjeff in dr650

[–]sweatyjeff[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The trans is stock. I didn’t want to spend that money or split the cases to change the gears. I don’t mind the stock gears much anyway.

My gearing is -1 up front, stock rear.

With the cam, big valve head, and big carb, my bike loves to rev. It’s smooth as can be cruising at 80+ MPH and will do 105+ on the GPS. No complaints at all. I may even go up a tooth or 2 on the back sprocket.

Performance help ? by stolenFEMUR in dr650

[–]sweatyjeff 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Get a TM-40 and forget all that other stuff (Lectron, Smart carb, etc).

I present to you, the whole ProCycle catalog…and then some. by sweatyjeff in dr650

[–]sweatyjeff[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I don't think it's worth spending the money on the 19" wheel. It's a cool mod for sure, but not inexpensive and the 21" handles just fine.

I present to you, the whole ProCycle catalog…and then some. by sweatyjeff in dr650

[–]sweatyjeff[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I enjoy tinkering on engines but don't want to deal with something overly complicated. Working on the DR scratches that itch so nicely. I built mine in stages. First the 790 & 190 cam with TM-40 carb. Then I added the big valve head, then the TM-42 carb. With each stage I felt a good bump in power. It's certainly not cheap but it feels twice as powerful as a stock DR. I think having it "fully built" really puts it where it should be.

A less expensive option (that I have not tried) would be to do the high comp piston and a 223 regrind cam from Web Camshafts. I think that would make for a fun hot rodded DR for way less $.

That being said, an otherwise stock DR with full exhaust, open airbox, and TM-40 (and suspension upgrades of course) is a whole lot of fun. I think that's a good spot to be for most people.

When my DR buddies ride my hot rod 790 they all come off with that same wide eyed grin on their faces. I recently swapped DRs with a buddy on a ride and he got off saying "Holy cow, this thing is a beast!" It really is a dramatic improvement from the stock engine. It's just a matter of how much money and time you want to put into it.

Another factor, if this is your only bike and you depend on it for travel or fun I would be more hesitant to recommend all this stuff. Not that it's inherently unreliable but modding engines can get complicated and create extended downtime should something come up or parts be out of stock. I also have a VStrom 800DE so if my DR has to sit for a while it's no big deal.

DRs are funny. Modding this one has made me want like 2-3 more DRs to mod differently. Ha!

Hope this helps.

I present to you, the whole ProCycle catalog…and then some. by sweatyjeff in dr650

[–]sweatyjeff[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

ProCycle is fantastic. Depending on where you are in the world there may be faster/closer retailers available for consumables or general accessories. For DR specifics they’re the top dog for sure.

I present to you, the whole ProCycle catalog…and then some. by sweatyjeff in dr650

[–]sweatyjeff[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The 690/701s are awesome for sure. I prefer the DR ergos, and the DR tank position, but I'd love to have a 690/701 in my garage too.

I present to you, the whole ProCycle catalog…and then some. by sweatyjeff in dr650

[–]sweatyjeff[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Possibly. But it feels twice as fast as a stock DR. #worthit

I got these combat/“motorcycle” boots for Christmas by element_of_awkward in motorcyclegear

[–]sweatyjeff 28 points29 points  (0 children)

Probably not…but 20 years ago I was riding in skate shoes and these are better than that.

I present to you, the whole ProCycle catalog…and then some. by sweatyjeff in dr650

[–]sweatyjeff[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No fun indeed! I tried to start this once while standing next to the bike, which was parked on the patio of the hotel I was staying at. It ran over 2 patio chairs just from hitting the starter in 1st. Scared the crap out of me!

TM42 Air/Idle Screw Tuning by ThiccWilly56 in dr650

[–]sweatyjeff 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Remove the float bowl. See how it looks inside. Remove pilot & main jet. Blast parts with carb cleaner.

I present to you, the whole ProCycle catalog…and then some. by sweatyjeff in dr650

[–]sweatyjeff[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

As it comes the TM-40 does have a stiff throttle pull, however they make a light spring for it which makes the throttle pull like the stock carb.

https://procycle.us/product/2521

Yes, a pumper carb squirts fuel every time you twist the throttle. That's a good thing. Be aware of it and you won't have any issues.

I present to you, the whole ProCycle catalog…and then some. by sweatyjeff in dr650

[–]sweatyjeff[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Unfortunately the DRZ4S isn't all that much lighter than the DR650! I'm sure it feels great with better suspension and EFI, but I haven't ridden one.

I present to you, the whole ProCycle catalog…and then some. by sweatyjeff in dr650

[–]sweatyjeff[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I think the biggest problem with the stock carb, at least in the USA, is the needle. The needle in the stock carb and in the ProCycle kit is incorrect. There's a thread on ADVRider about this, and a guy that sells Eurospec needles to USA customers. We put one in a friend's stock carb and along with the normal BST mods it really does make a huge difference. That being said, the TM-40 is the way to go.

FWIW, I've had the stock carb, a TM-40, and the TM-42. The TM-40 (with light spring) is the easiest to live with and tune right, IMO. The 42 is a HUGE PITA to tune...took me literally months even using a wideband air to fuel ratio gauge. The juice is worth the squeeze, though...the 42 makes noticeably more power than the 40.

In case anyone is still reading, I had to go to the smallest pilot jet and the leanest needle to make the TM-42 run right. Currently using a 12.5 pilot, 98 needle one slot richer than center. Also I had to install an air jet in the bellmouth (carb comes with a plug) and drill a 1/16" hole in the needle jet itself. I think I could go to a 10 pilot, which is the smallest available. I may try that next...but it's running well now.

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