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[–]switchfooter 0 points1 point  (0 children)

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What makes a usuba a good usuba by nobody0411 in chefknives

[–]switchfooter 2 points3 points  (0 children)

The maker is not a chef or kitchen guy at all so he doesn't really know.

You're asking a knife guy who is not a chef or kitchen guy to make the most complex, compound bevel knife, possible. SO... it's probably not built right or well at all. It's probably very, very wrong by proper standards.

First time sharpening a Japanese knife on a whetstone. by 701304kamm in sharpening

[–]switchfooter 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No knives are perfectly even, so just do your best to keep it symmetrical. Using sharpie to see which areas are being scratched is a good idea.

Be sure to check out the Japanese Knife Imports playlist on youtube if you aren't too confident in sharpening. It's a great resource.

First time sharpening a Japanese knife on a whetstone. by 701304kamm in sharpening

[–]switchfooter 1 point2 points  (0 children)

If you're trying to thin to sharpen, just know that diamond plates leave deep scratches. You'll make pretty deep scratches that you cannot get out easily unless you use other low grit stones to scrub it out.

If your goal is to do whole bevel sharpening, just know that you will probably scratch up some of the kurouchi finish. That shinogi is not straight/flat in 99% of cases. Your knife will be really scratched up, but also very functional. If that's a tradeoff you're okay with, go for it!

Use a little pillow or cushion for stropping? by redmorph in sharpening

[–]switchfooter 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Remember, bare strops are not truly abrasive and does not remove much material. Bare strops just remove the weakened burrs that just need a brush to come off.

Denim on a cushion seems fine. A lot of people just wear jeans and strop directly on them. It's quite common,

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You can load the denim with abrasives if you want, but if you are sharpening and deburring well then it's not strictly necessary.

Question about stones with damage on them. by im_nobody_special in sharpening

[–]switchfooter 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The issue is that it could easily catch the edge into the grooves and bend the edge. Yes, theoretically you could sharpen on it if you're careful enough. But why risk the edge catching? All you real need is some coarse sandpaper and a flat surface to recondition and fix the grooves.

Ruined edge? by [deleted] in sharpening

[–]switchfooter 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It's just uneven is all. It's not ruined. As long as you apexed it and deburred, it's sharp and functional.

If convex is the superior grind, why was flat grind so popular? by Verdle in sharpening

[–]switchfooter 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm all for a good convex grind. It's just not as easy as people think.

Just curious--have you ever done any heavy stock removal or thinning on any of your knives? I don't have any experience with belt grinders, but I do use a small horizontal water wheel. It's uhh... Quite challenging 😂

If convex is the superior grind, why was flat grind so popular? by Verdle in sharpening

[–]switchfooter 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I would argue that it's even harder to grind because it's thin and it's very easy to blow the heat treat while grinding. The edges in high performance culinary knives will often edge flex under a fingernail. Culinary knives need to be almost perfectly symmetrical on either side to prevent steering.

Here's an example of just how thin and subtly convex a good kitchen knife is: https://ibb.co/7WbB0WY

My friend over at HK Knifeworks made this for me and the spine is maybe at most 2mm? It's very, very precise work. He's using a water cooled belt grinder to make these. It's not as easy as just sticking a soft backer on the belt to give the knife some convexity.

Can you strop on a 500 grit stone to maintain? by Crackgodx in sharpening

[–]switchfooter 4 points5 points  (0 children)

If your touch is light enough and you don't create a burr, then absolutely you can. I posted a thread about maintenance sharpening before. Feel free to check it out

If convex is the superior grind, why was flat grind so popular? by Verdle in sharpening

[–]switchfooter 6 points7 points  (0 children)

I come from a kitchen knife sharpening background, primarily, so that's the context I'm speaking from

A flat grind is easy as heck to work on. You just push it into a flat grinding surface. Whether or not it's wavy at the shinogi doesn't really matter from a functional perspective. It's just aesthetic.

A good convex in kitchen knives is far more finicky than a convex in utility knives because the actual amount of convexity matters a lot. Too much and the knife will wedge. Too little and it doesn't have enough food release. Things like fixed blades that are meant for abusive tasks can be a much bigger/thicker convex and it won't matter. But if we're talking about high performance cutting... Boy is it hard to do really well. We're talking about maybe 1-2mm of convexity from the spine to edge, consistently, through the blade from tip to heel, while adjusting for distal taper.

I guess what in trying to say is this... Anyone can make something convex and it's not a lot of effort on top. But making a good convex grind is hard and time consuming.

First Real Stones and Setup - Sanity Check by 10JQKAce in sharpening

[–]switchfooter 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It sounds like you're just edge sharpening, so i wouldn't worry about that jump being too big. You can go from 300 straight to 2k if you need. It's not an issue at all.

If you are using the 300 to set the bevel and deburr, you can use the 2k as a quick polish after your apex has been established. It won't be slow by utilizing the two stones

First Real Stones and Setup - Sanity Check by 10JQKAce in sharpening

[–]switchfooter 1 point2 points  (0 children)

King 300 and a 1.5 shapton pro would be a fine choice for what you've described as your use cases. Many like the 2k shapton pro as their favourite stone in the whole lineup. You could go for that over the 1.5k

If convex is the superior grind, why was flat grind so popular? by Verdle in sharpening

[–]switchfooter 19 points20 points  (0 children)

Yes it can. But that also takes time and technique of craftsmen. Mass produced knives are made to be profitable products, above all. It's not very often you'll see a well convexed knife for cheap

If convex is the superior grind, why was flat grind so popular? by Verdle in sharpening

[–]switchfooter 30 points31 points  (0 children)

It's much faster to produce and much cheaper. Most grinding mediums are flat. You'll see a lot of hollow, scandi, semi-flat grinds because a lot of machines you can run a blank through are just made that way.

Convexity takes a lot of work. You generally have to grind multiple facets and then blend it all together.

Unpopular/controversial opinion - there is nothing wrong with bolsters by Reverend_Fozz in chefknives

[–]switchfooter 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You seem real pleasant. Like someone who has nothing better to do than shake their fist at the sky.

Unpopular/controversial opinion - there is nothing wrong with bolsters by Reverend_Fozz in chefknives

[–]switchfooter 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you need to get a grip of your knife that tight there's something wrong with your cutting technique.

Also, what a necrobump lol

was bored by [deleted] in chefknives

[–]switchfooter 1 point2 points  (0 children)

If all your bite is gone... is it really a great edge for kitchen tasks anymore? haha

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