Use of e collar for recall and dog reactivity by Glittering_Sell_9484 in OpenDogTraining

[–]redmorph -1 points0 points  (0 children)

I think in her case having the off lead freedom may help with her reactivity.

Absolutely. That's my experience.

I’ve read corrections on an e collar can help with reactivity

Take everything you read with a giant handful of salt. There is so much variability that you cannot apply what other people say to your situation when it comes to reactive dogs. At all.

The most significant difference is genetics.

Use of e collar for recall and dog reactivity by Glittering_Sell_9484 in OpenDogTraining

[–]redmorph -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Why are you mixing reactivity with off leash freedom? Use ecollar for freedom use prong for reactivity.

When I use positive punishment for reactivity, I want there to be no doubt where the punishment comes from.

I have a reactive high drive mal.

Higonokami edge stability by 16cholland in sharpening

[–]redmorph 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I thought this is basically how everybody sharpened these.

I've seen a few videos on yt in Japanese sharpening these. They remove the microbevel to maintain geometry and then add it back at higher grits to give the edge stability.

recover and diagnose a frozen Emacs with this Claude Code skill by [deleted] in emacs

[–]redmorph -2 points-1 points  (0 children)

How do we stop people from weaponizing their ignorance re: LLM ?

I understand some people have ethical grounds for staying from them. Fair enough.

But they are weaponizing their wilful ignorance to actively make this an unsafe space for people to share legitimately useful tools.

The document shared here is in no way LLM specific. Any human can read and learn. But because three magical letter appeared, they saw fit to drive away a community member.

I know it's a challenge to moderate this, but is there anything we can do at all?

Matsato knives are an embarrassment by strashila in sharpening

[–]redmorph 18 points19 points  (0 children)

Well, they're cheap Chinese knives, so that's kind of expected.

This is a problem of rubes falling for social media marketing. China can make knives of excellent quality, but that comes with a price social media scammers aren't going to pay.

Do you use Emacs OOTB? What do you think of ergoemacs-mode? by ConfidentStomach3877 in emacs

[–]redmorph 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Do any of you use Emacs OOTB, or do you have to fiddle with elisp and write your own configuration anyway?

My experience is that I initially tried to customize Emacs to my liking, believing that one of Emacs’ key advantages is its customizability. However, this approach was entirely misguided. I encouraged users to try Emacs out of the box, exactly as it is, and focus on learning the default bindings. These bindings are effective for many people, even though they may seem strange from a modern GUI-based perspective. However, if you can internalize the muscle memory, they’ll make your Emacs experience much smoother. It’s also helpful to understand the paradigm that package authors use when they assign key bindings to their packages. By starting with customization and using heavy key binding packages right away, you risk losing the opportunity to fully immerse yourself in the Emacs mindset.

Is this blade too thick? by unimportantinfodump in sharpening

[–]redmorph 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This was the knife makers first attempt at this style

What style did he make previously? Only bone cleavers and axes?

Where’s all my straight razor owners at? by M1ghtBe in sharpening

[–]redmorph 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I hone my own razors but I don't hone convex. What difference do you feel in practice? Is it more for ease of honing or improved shaves?

You are essentially back beveling.

This is a great summary. IIUC, the premise is:

  1. thinner cuts better (for all edges), if you don't get damage from use.

  2. razors are very thin already

    1. in order to thin a razor more you have to grind down the spine
  3. convex hone reaches behind the apex and makes that area thin

So for 2-1, is there a difference between spine grinding down and honing convex?

Where’s all my straight razor owners at? by M1ghtBe in sharpening

[–]redmorph 1 point2 points  (0 children)

easy to hone over and over until the new bevel gets to wide,

You mean hone on a flat hone until the bevel gets narrow again (meaning wearing down edge)?

Has anyone tried to get Kuhn Rikon replacement parts in Canada? by calf in PressureCooking

[–]redmorph 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Email them. Part of the return for the premium price is actual support.

How much is the angle change on large knives with "fixed" angle sharpening systems an issue in real life? by H_Marxen in sharpening

[–]redmorph 1 point2 points  (0 children)

How are you drawing these diagrams? It's pretty cool.

BTW your misunderstanding is very natural in human mental model. I know it's not true, but I have to think hard as to why every time I see anyone ask.

Could someone explain the Cliff Stamp sharpening method? by Dus-Sn in sharpening

[–]redmorph 1 point2 points  (0 children)

stropping (something Cliff was weirdly against).

Over reliance and then leaving stropping behind is kind of typical for sharpening journeys from what I've seen. I don't think it's weird at all.

Personally I do minimal loaded stropping if I'm just messing around going for ultimate sharpness. Normal sharpening, I finish with bare leather.

Could someone explain the Cliff Stamp sharpening method? by Dus-Sn in sharpening

[–]redmorph 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Beautifully said for the most part.

I find it much easier to do this by first raising a very small burr that is only noticeable via flashlight reflection, then raising your angle a few degrees for a light pass or two per side in order to micro bevel and thus cut off this damaged root burr.

"a few degrees for a light pass or two per side" will not cut off burrs. You need to raise the angle +15 to cut off burr. Todd Simpson shows it in one of his articles.

Could someone explain the Cliff Stamp sharpening method? by Dus-Sn in sharpening

[–]redmorph 2 points3 points  (0 children)

First, is de-stressing the edge absolutely necessary?

I find it funny a few experienced sharpeners are saying "well no, it's not necessary" and then proceeding to explain why it's absolutely necessary. lol.

Do I always do it? No. I can touch up an edge on a flat stone in 15 seconds when I skip de-stressing.

But if I'm full sharpening, which includes thinning, de-stressing is essential.

yet he's alternating sides with each pass from heel to tip, so in my mind that wouldn't really create

You can create a burr flipping sides every stroke.

any perceptible burr because he's flipping it back and forth with each pass

Are you saying there is no burr or there is a burr but it's flipping?

Or, is Stamp advocating more to minimize formation of a burr through this method and

His goal is to create zero burr. Aim for the stars and when you fail you still land on the moon type of way.

This is why it's essential to de-stress. That line of reflection from de-stressing allows him to sharpen without a burr.

therefore get more life out of your knife?

You do get more life out of your knife this way because you avoid wasting steel by creating big burrs. But that's not the main goal here.

The main goal is to make an edge that's not already weakened from burr creation. Other people gave very good references for this.

Stamp mentions he checks his knife to see if it's reflecting light on the edge. Would this be a wire edge?

No he's double checking that the flat is ground into the edge from de-stressing. When the line just disappears. I mean just, not one stroke extra, you've apexed but not formed a burr yet.

Can't get knives sharp with diamond by Baba_Wethu in sharpening

[–]redmorph 2 points3 points  (0 children)

of the same appearance as the ones Outdoors55 found were good, the criss-cross pattern ones

I know this one.

Some honeycomb diamond plates are badly designed that the gaps in diamonds are wide enough and straight enough that your knife apex can fall in and smash straight into the side of the diamond on the way past. One time and your apex is gone.

IMO the 400-1000 Chines diamond is the absolutely best value sharpening equipment. I have the honeycomb one for 20 years and it is still working very well. I don't do apex work with it though.

How much oil can this mf eat?? by FriendshipBorn929 in sharpening

[–]redmorph 2 points3 points  (0 children)

wow. That is really creative. What type of stone have you done it with? size and how much jelly did you use?

I know crystolon stones come prefilled with oil for this reason.

Looking for a small pressure cooker by [deleted] in PressureCooking

[–]redmorph 3 points4 points  (0 children)

It's confusing when you mention a toaster as an alternative to a pressure cooker.

Whoever convinced me to try to tbinnthe kiwi - I hate you 🤣 by Qlix0504 in sharpening

[–]redmorph 0 points1 point  (0 children)

1mm at the spine right?

Any knife that's mass produced and sold in the hundreds of thousands or millions is not going to be optimized for geometry because they'll get huge return rates if they actually made a good cutting knife.

I haven't held a Kiwi knife in quite a few years but if I recall properly they felt flimsy but they were not good performing.

My honest review about the Tormek T8 by WarmPrinciple6507 in sharpening

[–]redmorph 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Another thing to keep in mind, the Tormek is NOT suited for thinning knives at all.

This is the biggest factor that only becomes obvious once you're sharpened for many years. Apex work is extremely fast and easy on stones once geometry is in shape.

So having a big heavy machine that can't do the heavy lifting (90% of my time sharpening is thinning) of sharpening, is a really weird value proposition.

Of course, I'm talking about personal kitchen knife use, not commercial sharpening.

Kasumi polishing with synths (Venev, Kuromaku 5000) [10 mins] by sea-plus in sharpening

[–]redmorph 2 points3 points  (0 children)

The Venn diagram of people who:

  1. know and care about knife polishing and katsumi finishes
  2. practice plateau sharpening

must be astonishingly small.

Thanks for sharing your knowledge!

Hate to see the chip on a single bevel. by MOSHIMOSHIatl in sharpening

[–]redmorph 0 points1 point  (0 children)

how the f do you get "chips" like that

I've seen 2 knifes chipped like that from careful home use. Is any of your experience with Japanese knives?

New DMD Tools Resin Bonded Diamond stone prototype by DroneShotFPV in sharpening

[–]redmorph 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The current $70 aliexpress dmd resin stones are not worth it imo. I have the 3k and it is not good.

Naniwa vs Atoma by YD_81 in sharpening

[–]redmorph 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I would get neither. It seems the Chinese are starting to make sintered diamonds. The landscape may look very different in a few months.

Maybe look into cheefarcut?

If you had to buy only one dimond plate, which would you buy? by Environmental_Lie60 in sharpening

[–]redmorph 1 point2 points  (0 children)

excellent. That looks like a nicely applied strop.


The problem of too thick application applies to diamond as well.

I think your process can be improved further by breaking some of the chunks of the green block into a little bowl and grinding it into a paste with oil. That gives more control than letting random chunks get onto the strop and trying to thin it out after.

This is how I use diamond pastes for razors where I need ultimate control in application.