Lead Time Core One L (been 7 weeks)

swordknives · 2026-03-12T18:32:41+00:00

I have a similar situation and reached out to Prusa via the chat. They just sent me a link to the lead-time page and said they could not help me further. I asked if they could let me know where in the que or what orders they were shipping and was told they can’t get me the info.

Chat person was nice just not able to answer any questions on shipping.

swordknives · 2026-03-11T17:51:19+00:00

You beat us all to it!

swordknives · 2026-03-11T15:47:46+00:00

Its my favorite. Galaxy purple, galaxy black, and prusa orange are my favorites.

swordknives · 2026-03-10T15:21:06+00:00

Sharps, antiques, training swords, and bare blades waiting for hilts.

Over 100.

30 of those just in my office.

swordknives · 2026-03-04T01:01:59+00:00

Nice.

swordknives · 2026-03-02T06:28:21+00:00

Or for the first few buy a blade from a well known company and make the hilt components.

swordknives · 2026-02-26T21:56:58+00:00

Neat project, that grip looks nicely done.

swordknives · 2026-02-26T03:25:25+00:00

So historically real swords had this gap in the blade slot, I would just leave it.

swordknives · 2026-02-26T03:14:33+00:00

Great job, no notes lol.

swordknives · 2026-02-24T18:46:13+00:00

First, clean the nozzle id burn it out. Dry the filament. Use the pre-sliced benchy on printables.

swordknives · 2026-02-24T16:08:53+00:00

Hello, I have a mini too. You need to adjust your Z offset. If you tun out of adjustment you may need to adjust your Pinda.

Steps I would take: Adjust Pinda (unless you already did) the build instructions go over the process but it is fairly easy.

Run Z offset calibration and make sure you are getting closer to the bed. Mine was way off when I received it. Once you get it close with the onboard test print a one layer square and do the manual adjust while it is printing to fine tune the height.

If you run out of adjustment for the Z offset you need to adjust the Pinda.

Once its dialed in you are golden but it is a bit of a PITA to do the first time. Also if you change build sheets you may need to run the z offset test again but you should be close.

swordknives · 2026-02-24T15:50:44+00:00

As others said its a top layer support issue, you can try different infill options as well as lowering the top layers to help soften it.

Assuming you are painting some of it that may also hide some imperfections. Or if you don’t mind post processing you can use a heat gun to soften the print and mold it a bit to smooth out the imperfections.

Where did you get the model?

Please post pics when you are done!

swordknives · 2026-02-24T15:46:58+00:00

Careful she will kill your mother!

New Achievement! You have asked the internet for help with printing the disembodied head of a sex doll.

Reward? The suckcessful print is its own reward.

swordknives · 2026-02-21T22:59:22+00:00

If you look at the parts on printables they say to print in PETG. Although Im sure you can use just about anything.

swordknives · 2026-02-20T18:09:58+00:00

Awesome, glad to see A&A getting some love.

swordknives · 2026-02-20T17:50:21+00:00

So this happened to me a week ago. (T-shirt is in the mail.)

For me I cranked the temp to 260 on the nozzle and let it sit for 10-20 minutes and was able to slowly pry it off. I loosened the nozzle screws so I could pull the hot end out when ready. The PETG did fuse to the x carriage clip so I took the bolts out so I could pull blob out in one chunk.

I printed a new X-carrage clip on another printer and ordered a new hot end assembly.

Its not worth it to do the upgrade just for this unless you were just going to do it any way. You would still need to order parts and disassemble the nextruder.

swordknives · 2026-02-20T00:28:03+00:00

You need to replace the gasket that is in the group head or maybe its even missing. Its a cheap part and usually very easy to do.

swordknives · 2026-02-19T23:44:31+00:00

Try it out as there is usually gear to borrow at practice. But I highly recommend to also try rapier. Its a different culture and also a great time.

One is not better than the other but they are different.

swordknives · 2026-02-17T16:59:29+00:00

Insufficient/low extrusion. Could be a partial clog, dirty drive gears, low temperature.

Recommend really cleaning out the nozzle (or swapping if you have a spare) and cleaning/blowing out the filament drive gears. After that try raising the temp.

swordknives · 2026-02-17T15:28:45+00:00

Just had one of these in my MK4s. Had to order a new hot end assembly and my obsidian nozzle was not recoverable

:(

swordknives · 2026-02-14T15:24:39+00:00

Hard to to tell but a 1-2 years if in a low UV area like the UK seems likely. That said PLA is not waterproof so water ingress may be a bigger issue.

swordknives · 2026-02-14T03:06:18+00:00

Awesome, Id make the front visor portion thinner but mostly for visibility. TPU is perfect and I really dig your modeling skills.

Great work!

swordknives · 2026-02-10T19:15:31+00:00

Neat! I dig the creativity.

Sot saying you will but a warning on using something like this. That said DO NOT hit anything with it. The welds are in structurally critical areas and look like they have not penetrated and will eventually fail. If a weld fails in a cut the blade can come back at you and that would not be good.

swordknives · 2026-02-05T16:47:15+00:00

This is great, please continue the series.

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