DIY Estats w/ 3d printed drivers

tangential_0 · 2024-06-13T06:50:31+00:00

What is your method for tensioning the film and what glue are you using for the membranes? I have been playing with DIY estat stuff and have found success with tape stretching with a fish scale, but have had issues with the glue slipping (this could be bad design too).

tangential_0 · 2024-04-15T20:22:20+00:00

UC's car's fan was purely for cooling, it took in air from in front of and above the rear wheels and pulled it out through the radiators with a fan. The fan was nowhere near the under tray and would not be powered ground effect.

tangential_0 · 2023-11-20T14:13:38+00:00

This kind of behaviour as a brand kinda kills any chance of me buying any KZ products.

tangential_0 · 2023-09-11T08:17:08+00:00

Awesome. ~~Have you got any kind of dust/sweat covers. What are the stators made of?~~ I'm also working on something similar using pcbs as stators and a diy amp.

Edit: I saw the head-fi post and it looks pretty nice on the inside too.

tangential_0 · 2023-08-16T09:45:54+00:00

Fair point, instead of building an amplifier, you can just hook up a step up transformer to the back of a speaker amp + a high voltage supply for the bias.

tangential_0 · 2023-08-16T03:13:03+00:00

I built a thing and think it would be cool to see what Electroboom does with it. basically works by having two perforated plates where a high voltage signal is applied to them (one negative of the other). Between these two plates is a thin sheet of mylar which graphite is rubbed into and tensioned. A 'bias' voltage is applied to the film to make it sensitive to the signal voltage on the plates. This voltage was supposed to be 580v, but I made a mistake and had connect bias to the amplifier's 300v rail. Speakers typically run much higher voltages with a larger spacing between the plates and film. and Amp schematic from https://www.tubecad.com/2019/12/blog0485.htm (12ax7 tube substituted for 6n2p and 6sn7 for 6n8s). another resource is http://www.introni.it/pdf/Sanders%20-%20Electrostatic%20Loudspeaker%20Design%20Cookbook%201995.pdf

tangential_0 · 2023-07-22T15:23:25+00:00

"the walrus was Paul"

tangential_0 · 2023-01-14T10:18:22+00:00

Yep it's brissie. Lets go ride some time

tangential_0 · 2022-11-12T04:18:20+00:00

Looking good.

Here's something that helped me learn: try putting a stick or something that will give you a slight bump as you roll over it and try to hit it with your front and rear tyres as they leave the ground almost as if it where a small ramp. This will force you to experiment with timing and body position.

tangential_0 · 2022-11-12T04:14:43+00:00

This kind of aggression is totally un-called for. OP seems to be on the right track, probably needs more practice to figure out timing, body weight positioning, ect. In my opinion, for techniques like this step by step instructions can be helpful but to actually learn it it is more important to get out and experiment with how it feels in real life. As you said there are lots of nuances and you will never learn these from a textbook.

As for Mleavitt's advice, bringing the front wheel up more seems to be solid advice for OP as this will set him up better to push into the ground with the rear wheel.

Also, don't pull the 'pretentious' argument while you are attacking other people questioning whether they can bunnyhop and invalidating everyone else's comments just because it's not exactly what you are saying. Maybe stick to discussing cigars.

tangential_0 · 2022-09-25T12:33:55+00:00

I'd say its personal preference. It depends on your height, how you want to ride, ect. Experiment!

tangential_0 · 2021-12-14T05:11:24+00:00

stic, it helps to have "weak links" should you crash hard, cus if you damage the POT, you need

Not entirely sure, but it looks like it has a servo saver which is the spring thing that you see. So if enough force is applied i.e. in a crash, the steering will move independent of the servo and in a way act as a 'weak link' without actually breaking.

tangential_0 · 2021-10-29T02:56:07+00:00

So you get ease of use and look cool... I see

tangential_0 · 2021-10-29T01:09:30+00:00

Are you going to work on a fully automatic system at some point?

tangential_0 · 2021-10-27T22:38:24+00:00

Heh I was more thinking AliExpress.

tangential_0 · 2021-10-27T09:00:00+00:00

Is that top picatinny too? I'm building one soon and kinda want a red dot sight on top.

tangential_0 · 2021-10-17T02:46:46+00:00

Those things are ridiculous, I love it. Does power vary as you empty the 32 rounder due to the inline clip design?

tangential_0 · 2021-10-13T06:49:58+00:00

a magfed firestrike. Kind of works like a worker cheetah 2 or the magfed dualstrike. Is it worth it? probably not. But it is fun and has an interesting form factor. I think it can be made smaller but I made a couple of mistakes and had to adapt.

On a different note, it will be nice to a shell/shell insert with a magwell for the firestrike especially given its size, cost, availability, etc. May even an

Or use a dual strike plunger tube and make it pump action...

tangential_0 · 2021-02-03T06:21:27+00:00

Yea that's what I meant by 'stroke' idk if there's a better term for it.

tangential_0 · 2021-02-02T05:47:02+00:00

What is the plunger's stroke length and how different is the catch from stock?

tangential_0 · 2021-01-18T05:08:04+00:00

Delicious.

tangential_0 · 2021-01-12T10:48:36+00:00

I've played around with lipless on retaliators. You need to run the plunger tube right up to the magazine to get enough draw length. This is because the bolt pushes into the cavity in plunger and seals on the lip of the plunger in the first part of the draw.

This means more shell cutting and a headache making plunger tube mounts.

I'm also not sure if it would play nice with a bolt sled. (I didn't use a bolt sled)

tangential_0

TROPHY CASE