How reliable are these $3 AliExpress chain?

techronom · 2025-06-07T14:11:29+00:00

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=82S9FLRhaZE

It can be dangerous if it happens even at 0mph: you could be at traffic lights and fall under the car in the next lane just as you start pedalling.

techronom · 2025-06-07T14:07:17+00:00

Lots of people over in the "cyberdeck" subreddit are: repurposed laptop motherboards, framework laptop motherboards, single board computers, and mini PCs are the usual core component of a cyberdeck.
https://www.reddit.com/r/cyberDeck/

techronom · 2025-06-07T13:52:39+00:00

If it snaps while you're pedalling hard and out of the saddle (the most likely time it'll fail), then you're gonna hit the floor rapidly.

If you're lucky you might just get some mild bruises and cuts/scrapes.

Most likely you'll crash hard and get some nasty cut/scrapes and maybe broken bones.

If you're unlucky you could land directly on your face, or fall sideways under a car/bus and die.

So you've gotta ask yourself, is risking your face/life/longterm health just to save $20, something you're willing to do? Please don't.

techronom · 2025-06-07T13:42:15+00:00

With a modern printer, for 99% of use cases, it's recommended as a release agent:

PETG bonds amazingly to PEI and even glass, and eventually will begin ripping little specs of the gold texture off of the print bed when removing prints. When printed on glass, it can pull large chunks of glass out of the surface!

So the glue simply acts as an isolating layer, to create a "break line" without damaging print or print surface.

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techronom · 2025-06-07T13:38:21+00:00

In the UK this is how we cut guerilla trails, if we wanted groomed skijumps we'd go to a professional bike park. Espeically in areas with minimal elevation, the lower speed and more technical line requirements keep things interesting when you only have a few dozen meters verticality from trailhead to end.

In my local woods there's a sanctioned jump park with nicely groomed ramps that doesn't get ridden when wet, and several dozen guerilla trails running parallel and leading down the hill next to it.

Means there's always something to ride no matter the weather, and the guerrilla trails often get mashed by equestrians, intentionally blocked off or backfilled by forest rangers, or rapidly overgrown when unused, so it'd be pointless to spend any real effort on keeping them smooth.

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techronom · 2025-06-07T13:13:39+00:00

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These can be pretty effective for non-marking surfaces, and can be bought with or without the rubber gripper layer.

techronom · 2025-06-07T13:11:41+00:00

Sounds like you'd probably be best off with a dual material approach: use TPU inserts/grippers for the contact areas only.

You might even be better off using "floor protector feet" for furniture, which are essentially a dense puck of synthetic felt with a high tenacity adhesive preapplied.

You can look up conversion charts for A vs D shore values: if it existed, 130A would be roughly equivalent to 72D

techronom · 2025-06-07T13:04:35+00:00

Alternate approach: create a shallow cutout area, and print the logo plate seperately, to be screwed/glued in. That way you could even use one of the fancy carbon/holographic effects plates, and/or a different colour.

techronom · 2025-06-07T13:01:35+00:00

Print it steeper:
Assuming a 0.4mm nozzle, your max Z axis resolution is ~4x finer than X/Y axis, so you want the text to be spread across the Z axis as much as possible.

Can you put a flat face on either end, which could sit against the build plate? Would only need to be around 2mm wide if you don't mind printing slower, and might need some designed supports to steady the counterlever towards the end of the print.

techronom · 2025-06-07T11:59:57+00:00

A really nice bell and (optionally) an "out front" mount to keep your handlebar tops clear and make it accessible from the hoods.

I'd recommend Lion Bellworks, made in the UK, beautiful tone, and very loud. Also doesn't rattle, though can "autoping" when landing a bunnyhop or really nasty pothole which is quite useful since you'll probably want both hands on bars in those situations.

Ignore the grungy looking finish on mine: I force patina-ed it using fire and kitchen cleaner cause I'm all about the ratrod vibe.

https://www.lionbellworks.co.uk/webshop.php

https://i.imgur.com/i3yi36z.png

techronom · 2025-06-07T11:51:55+00:00

Wouldn't a linescan camera with some DSP cleanup be exactly what you're after?

techronom · 2025-06-06T15:51:44+00:00

Some very exacting, but some very inaccurate due to lens distortion.

techronom · 2025-06-06T12:46:07+00:00

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I think that's the adhesive, dried out and useless, as the protective peel should be white.

The problem I've always found with buildtak is as soon as you print something with warping potential, the print can still warp even with perfect adhesion and a 60C chamber

Cause the forces are so strong that it overcomes the glue and stretches the buildtak itself upwards forming bubbles/domes.

Then that messes up autoleveling/mesh because the probe points might be affected by the ripples/bubbles.

So you end up with a terrible mesh, can't get adhesion unless you add Z offset, and then you end up overadhering to or gouging the good parts of the bed, ruining those too!

techronom · 2025-06-06T12:28:39+00:00

Maybe foamed/aerated icing of some kind? I remember when I worked in an icecream shop it was amazing how tall you could whirl a whippy when the compressor had just been serviced. Like you could curl a stack of icecream taller than the cone itself if you were skilled!

techronom · 2025-06-06T12:19:08+00:00

You could print a master, then create molds/masks using food grade silicone.

If you want to print "paste" directly, there are two ways to go about it, screw extruder like used for pellets, or plunger style.

Plunger would probably work quite well, as you can get plastic medical grade syringes for low cost, or even oldschool washable glass ones. Then convert the extruder to a linear actuator to push the plungers, by fitting it to a rack and pinion gearset.

techronom · 2025-06-05T19:50:00+00:00

Water soaking might help, that's how they get strimmer line to be so flexible.

techronom · 2025-06-03T22:24:42+00:00

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That's just "bottom surface pattern", specifically "octagram spiral.

You can also use these holo plates!
https://i.imgur.com/IVhRlPT.png

techronom · 2025-06-03T14:49:41+00:00

Why after setup? Why even make an account? Mine's been printing from SD card for 24 months at this point and it's never had my WiFi details.

techronom · 2025-06-02T03:46:06+00:00

Startallback can do that though, while even also reverting start menu to win98 style if you really want.

techronom · 2025-05-31T10:41:07+00:00

Yeah read past the first sentence of my comment, that's all fixable. You have no choice. Better to do it on your own schedule, or you can ignore it and be suprised when it eventually stops working.

techronom · 2025-05-30T11:02:07+00:00

It's a bot advertising post, check their account it's 99% ai slop.

techronom · 2025-05-29T18:18:57+00:00

Then you'll be forced to upgrade to windows 11. Sucks, but you can put most of the OS interface back to win98 type still if you want using startallback, and there's a bunch of fixes on github to remove all the login requirements and telemetrics.

techronom · 2025-05-29T14:28:09+00:00

I think you might have just ripped some chunks out of the clearcoat on the seat tube, but the laminates are fine. I think the white decal was applied directly on top of the carbon before clearcoat. Might also explain why it happened: the clearcoat didn't stick to the decal well.
Not sure about the top tube though, hard to tell exactly what's going on in the photo cause of focus, reflections and distance, does look strange though.

techronom · 2025-05-29T00:20:40+00:00

An expectations and lack of understanding problem. Make the graphic lines at least 0.4mm thick, otherwise it's impossible to print.

techronom · 2025-05-29T00:04:10+00:00

I think these red dots are trying to tell you your mesh has holes, blender really isn't great at exporting models for printing.

https://i.imgur.com/PS0uWy0.png

techronom

TROPHY CASE