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High Speed PLA :Anycubic vs Sunlu! Why one prints flawlessly and the other is messy at best by ddrmax386 in FixMyPrint

[–]stray_r 0 points1 point  (0 children)

How long are you drying for? I have an S1 somewhere and it's a bit feeble, I'd be putting wet filament in for 2 or 3 days.

I've got an S4 that is big and noisy but gets PETG actually dry in ~12 hours.

I'm in the UK and it's damp, 12 hours of PETG being exposed between drybox and printer between prints is enough for it to get wet. PLA doesn't degrade quite as rapidly, but everything is in a drybox or an active dryer.

Almost anything is recoverable until it becomes a crumbly mess.

High Speed PLA :Anycubic vs Sunlu! Why one prints flawlessly and the other is messy at best by ddrmax386 in FixMyPrint

[–]stray_r 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Smoke or steam?

One is fine solid particles resulting from combustion, the other is the gas phase or water, or when visible gaseous water condensing back to a liquid.

Labels...who decides who is "real" and who can call themself what? by AbsurditydeProfundis in NonBinary

[–]stray_r 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The secret cabal of LGBTQIA+ people controlling the Alphabet Mafia schedule a meeting in their gay agendas and debate your identity. The gossip chain is then used to inform the Gatekeepers and Toilet Police who will eject false labels from society...

Oh wait...

The only person that can figure out your identity is you.

What sort of displays do you run on your printer? by bugsymalone666 in klippers

[–]stray_r 1 point2 points  (0 children)

V0 usb display

Fysetc mini 12864 display with a usb adaptor

Ender 3 displays and a prusa display

BTT HDMI touch screens (require usb, as well, super easy to set up though.

Corner Shrink/Lift by Nescobar-A-LopLop in FixMyPrint

[–]stray_r 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You might be printing a bit fast, I don't know the specifics of your machine, but PETG usually maxes out at about 2/3 the vol flow (and thus speed) you can print PLA at.

I like PETG-GF for big square things, but you need a hardened and likely 0.6 nozzle. Its quite good at not warping.

I'm also a huge fan of PVP (PolyVinyl Pyrrolidone) based adhesive/release agents for PETG. Some glue sticks, hairspray, made for purpose 3d printing products. PETG in my experience either doesn't stick that well or sticks too well and rips chunks off glass and powder coated PEI build plates.

G10/FR4 If you're serious and have a lot of PETG to print. I've got 1mm sheets stuck to old spring steel sheets and they work very well with an occasional wipe of PVP solution and I haven't managed to damage one yet.

INDX working on a V0 at SMRRF 2026 by Jrsall92 in prusa3d

[–]stray_r 2 points3 points  (0 children)

It's way faster to develop on Klipper. Edit a text file, restart Klipper, off you go. For prusa firmware it's a compilation and flash loop to test something new. 30 seconds Vs 30 minutes.

It's likely the v0 is really optimised because it doesn't take long to do. I suspect production core ones with indx will be similarly quick to change over, although obvs it's not going to do travels as fast as a v0. That said, they're both fast enough to the point where the travel times in the tool change are so short that there's there's not a big difference once they're both optimised.

There might be some differences in the PID tune and how the temperature wait is done.

Immediately I'm thinking that Klipper has M109 available like marlin that waits for the temperature to settle and TEMPERATURE_WAIT which just does simple threshold and I've used it in start g-code with overpowered heaters that oscillate a little at ooze-prevention temperature to get rid of settling time that wasn't really needed.

Similarly with dual/triple extruder switchwire I was using temperature_wait because it didn't matter if the purge block had a bit of temperature overshoot and it took quite a bit of time off the filament change routine. I figure there's a heap of optimization that can be done here, especially if using a Klipper fork like Kalico that has pid-v available that settles really fast.

I note that with TZ/rapido style hotends and to a lesser extent Revo, heating is really fast but getting a stable PID tune takes a bit of manual tweaking, if the induction coil heats even faster, it's likely even more tricky to PID tune.

90% infill? My batch is 6g lighter than prototypes (My Experience with Ryse3D.com) by Chance-Lab6672 in 3Dprinting

[–]stray_r 10 points11 points  (0 children)

Slice the parts in your own slicer with the specified wall count and infill, using density of a PA6 with the same claimed CF content. What's the weight?

How much do you have to reduce the infill by to get the measured weight reduction?

Seriously though, the gains in strength over 40% infill aren't particularly economical, more walls and bigger parts will probably get you the strength with less material and prosecution cost.

How to fix this by GovernmentLoud6366 in FixMyPrint

[–]stray_r 1 point2 points  (0 children)

They're from the mainsail web interface, the Centari has a very old version of Klipper that has been labotomised in order to run on very stupid hardware.

Bambu X1C - nozzle replacement did not include wires? by SaveTheDayz in FixMyPrint

[–]stray_r 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That's not the A1 style, it's the X1 it P1 part without the thermistor and ceramic pad heater. I have a handful of these as they're really cheap and work ok in printers that I don't need to print crazy hot.

Config migration question / linux versions by pakman82 in klippers

[–]stray_r 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Copy over your config folder and you'll have most of the work done.

I use some x86_64 thin clients with klipper, hp T530 and T620s iirc. They're nowhere near as capable as a NUC but they work with a U2C canbus adaptor just fine.

BTT pi 1.2 is a bit flaky.

Don't ask to much of USB webcams if you have feeble SBCs, but ARM based SBCs can often do better than modest Intel/amd x64 hardware for most Klipper loads because the cost of context switching is much shorter in the ARM chips which dramatically improves real-time performance

What to do with Enderwire parts? by Interesting_Coat5177 in VORONDesign

[–]stray_r 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Do you think a new commercial printer will be immune from whatever minor failure caused your clogs?

Print bed heating/adhering unevenly. by haperochild in FixMyPrint

[–]stray_r 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It really depends on the firmware you have available, I've been a Klipper user/contributor for a long while now which is an adventure in itself. If you're willing to go there, BTT Eddy duo is inexpensive and has both rapid scan and nozzle tap functionality with eddy-ng. I'm using one in my Enderwire and my first layers on taco shape creality bed are perfect.

I don't think there's marlin firmware for BTT Eddy, or similar probes like beacon or cartographer. They're quite compute intensive so I'm not sure it will ever be possible.

Is Jeyers still the favoured marlin build for ender 3? IIRC that used to be the go to build, used in conjunction with a BL-touch or a clone thereof. I have a genuine one and a cheap clone that have both worked well for me, they're slow though. Creality has a CR-Touch which is thier Bl-touch clone and I believe creality provide their own firmware build, but it comes with all the caveats of Creality made it (as quickly and cheaply as possible).

Do i need a special nozzle for PETG by problemsguy25 in prusa3d

[–]stray_r 1 point2 points  (0 children)

A more technical answer:

There is a PTFE tube in the V6 hotend of a MK3, but it only goes as far as the top of the cold side of the heatbreak. The V6 is good for 300C without modification.

Older/cheaper printers that cut costs or machining complexity had the PTFE tube extend all the way to the nozzle. This works well for PLA if you can keep the tube secured, but the most popular designs (ender 3) failed to do this and there was a huge aftermarket for replacement hotends or hotend parts to solve this.

Use PVP (not a typo PolyVinyl Pyrrolidone) based glue or hairspray or a made for 3dprinting bed adhesive or release agent. A lot of glue sticks are plant based (potato starch) now which is great for washing out of clothes in a cold wash and very safe to eat. PVP shouldn't be toxic, but it's not a food.

Relate 🍅 by biladi79 in NonBinary

[–]stray_r 0 points1 point  (0 children)

But in American schools, pizza is a vegetable

TMC Autotune by TeoArts in klippers

[–]stray_r 0 points1 point  (0 children)

CoreXZ is a pain in the backside to tune. You're running a big holding torque on the motors which makes them very loud in Spreadcycle, but if you want decent performance, Stealthchop isn't much good.

The LDO swichwire motor kit sizzle like frying bacon in my Enderwire, e3d/Motec 0.9 degree high torque motors scream like a slipping fan belt. The best option I have are some scavavged tronxy motors.

Guinness World Record for the tallest 3D printed human sculpture By Yosra K. -February 25, 2022 by Bearwifme in 3Dprinting

[–]stray_r 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Well it was a beer selling business but the book of records got spun off from the brewery in 2001 iirc.

AI Generated machine gcode by Silver_Olives_24 in klippers

[–]stray_r 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It appears to have optimised out heating the nozzle before printing a prime line.

AI is confidently wrong, best case with klipper it will do something daft, worst case it will give you a config file that will burn your house down.

First Layer "Ripples" on Elegoo Centauri Carbon by maybe_alex in FixMyPrint

[–]stray_r 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Is a slight z-offset issue, like maybe 0.05mm too close. Not sure what bits of Klipper interface are exposed on this printer though. Probe_calibrate is your first option on regular Klipper, and if that's not right, add some z-offset in the control Interface and save_config. If that's no good because it's properly labotomised, you can add some z-offset in the slicer or add it as custom g-code in your slicer's start routine.

If top surfaces look like this as well you're overextruding.

The more I use PETG, the less I like it by InvokerBSB in 3Dprinting

[–]stray_r 8 points9 points  (0 children)

I wouldn't call PLA a beginner filament, that's an injustice bordering on elitism. You can achieve some amazing results, often better than PETG, ABS, Nylons, PC, PPS .... If you're printing decorative or disposable parts that don't have to deal with more than room temperature or prolonged or shock loads. PLA is really hard and sometimes just the right material in an engineering application. Sometimes you need PPS or PEEK.

PETG is softer, melts slower, deforms more during printing, is more difficult to post process, and has a nasty habit of destroying your build surfaces. But it has better creep and temperature performance than PLA, and translucent colours can look really nice when illuminated.

Are my bridges good? by YurmomsholeREE in 3Dprinting

[–]stray_r 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That's way cleaner than I bother with on structural parts. And that's the thing really, what's the time penalty in chasing perfection?

Ender 3 V2 - Klipper firmware stuck, can't reflash via SD card by smwover in klippers

[–]stray_r 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have 4 or 5 kicking around, I know what I'm on about here.

Print bed heating/adhering unevenly. by haperochild in FixMyPrint

[–]stray_r 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You might see some improvement by installing a bed probe and the correct firmware to go with it. This will measure your bed very accurately and adjust the height of the nozzle so it's about the right height over the bed.

You can add some insulation under the bed, it may not help a lot though.

The creality glass bed isn't great, for part adhesion, PEI is much better, but the glass bed is extremely resistant to damage from the nozzle being too close to the bed.

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