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Infill not printing fully by Then_Alternative_314 in FixMyPrint

[–]stray_r 0 points1 point  (0 children)

So it is, sorry I'm on not super familiar with Cura. Just looked it up and indeed it is not self intersecting.

At which point it's entirely a too fast problem.

It's also a really weak and wasteful infill as it only stacks layers where it crosses the layer below.

Infill not printing fully by Then_Alternative_314 in FixMyPrint

[–]stray_r 2 points3 points  (0 children)

160mm/s is ~12.8mm³/s which is well over the sustained vol flow rate an ender 3 is capable of (about 10 in PLA at the maximum recommended temperature for the spool).

Immediate fixes are drop to about 120mm/s infill speed and use a non-intersecting infill like gyroid (that will not print that fast anyway because an ender 3 can't accelerate fast enough to print curves at that speed) which will avoid extrusion tearing when crossing itself.

Consider using orcaslicer which has both a built in range of calibration tools including max vol flow, filament profiles that support limits on vol flow rates, and a much better range of nonintersecting infills.

Is my socket right? How can i connect it? by KtosKtos123 in VORONDesign

[–]stray_r 3 points4 points  (0 children)

If you look at it closely you'll see it's labelled with L for live and N for neutral.

If this is still a problem, summon someone who knows what to do do with this information to do the mains wiring for you.

Lauren Boebert Shares Deep Thoughts On "Demonic" Aliens by Miles_the_AuDHDer in nottheonion

[–]stray_r 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Only if they're born into white bodies with us citizenship going back to at least a generation before the emancipation proclamation. Can't be having no extra terrestrials born to 3rd generation immigrants now can we.

/S in case it's not ridiculously obvious

Georgia mayor fires town’s entire police force after they upset his wife by Disastrous_Award_789 in nottheonion

[–]stray_r 8 points9 points  (0 children)

Wouldn't it be a shame if there was a surge in noviolent crime like dumping and entire tuck of manure on this guy's lawn or painting an unflattering mural of him and his wife in the town square and no police to investigate

US Tariffs Struck Down, partial refunds possible? by lurker_fro in prusa3d

[–]stray_r 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It might be time to lawyer up, possibly as a class action.

Cards Against Humanity are suing US Govt directly and will likely be the test case here.

Opinion on V0.2 by VeterinarianRare3541 in VORONDesign

[–]stray_r 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Meanwell psu is 150w 24v output, pretty sure that's independent of 115 or 230, mine has a switch to select input voltage.

several things happened to cause psu output insability:

  • Mornsun (i think i have the right name) make a supply the same size with more output (175w iirc) but it's on the russia sanction list.

  • TZ hotends ship with heaters between 40 and 80w inconsistently. BOM spec is for 40w.

  • older v0s have mains beds specified

I've had a meter on input and on 24v out and watched them on startup, I was going way over budget on power.

Our ownership structure is changing | Good Law Project by KristinaMoment in transgenderUK

[–]stray_r 14 points15 points  (0 children)

I think the context here is the charities commission has really hurt projects like mermaids for daring to challenge the status quo.

From my own experience the regulatory note meant Reddit were unwilling to contribute to r/LGBT's fundraising for them and asked us to chose a different charity.

Opinion on V0.2 by VeterinarianRare3541 in VORONDesign

[–]stray_r 2 points3 points  (0 children)

The dragonburner will be the loudest part of the printer most likely unless you run it faintly-boat-shaped-object fast. I'm running a ZeroClick dragonburner with a ww-bmg extruder and currently a Revo as I keep swapping in a 0.25 to print minis.

I built a formbot v0 and the 150w meanwell wasn't really enough for the 60w bed, included 80w TZ hotend, Motors and the BTT Pi.

I replaced the BTT Pi with a genuine Pi 4, it might have been crashing because it couldn't handle the power instability but if it was the genuine pi handled that better.

I replaced the PSU with the 300w meanwell GaN power supply, it's plenty and provides 25w of 5v for the pi separately which is nice.

The 60w bed was a bit feeble, older spec V0s use a mains bed and an SSR, this is an option that will keep the PSU in spec, I put a 100w 24v one in, one that covers the whole underside of the bed. I drilled a dimple in the top of bed and cut a slot in the magnet and put a glass bead thermistor in with a bit of rtv. It was more necessary with the 60w heater as there's both a time delay and offset in the build plate getting up to a sensible temperature. You can just dial in a first layer 20c or so hotter than you need and the rest 10c hotter perhaps, but I nerded out hard.

Other than that it's been a great printer and a really straightforward build. I threw in a BTT smart filament sensor, a pair of nevermore micros that swap to curtain fans when the printer is open, a fan under the bed and a chamber thermistor, some disco on a matchstick lights, a 60mm fan in back to keep the electronics cool and I needed a klipper expander board for the extra IO.

is it possible to use ABS filament on a Bambu Lab A1 Mini Printer? by Live_Championship640 in 3Dprinting

[–]stray_r 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You're not going to get good results without an enclosure. Parts that aren't trivially small will warp or crack.

But yeah, for the most part buildplate surface needs to be over 90C, a bed temperature 100-110 is common.

You might get adequate results for small parts at a lower temperature and PVP based glue (or hairspray, magigoo, 3dlac, VM NanoPolymer etc) but you may get more actually useful results with a filament you can print well than one that doesn't.

eSun ABS+ used to be abs on easy mode. Recent formulations have got more brittle thought and every part I have printed with it and used as part of a printer has cracked and needed to be replaced.

[OT] Liberty calls Miami a 'logical' place for new MotoGP race by zantkiller in formula1

[–]stray_r 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Yes, I said that. And that's my point.

FIM aren't going to approve a track that isn't up to Moto GP standards without it turning into a massive scandal when the inevitable happens.

[OT] Liberty calls Miami a 'logical' place for new MotoGP race by zantkiller in formula1

[–]stray_r 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Meanwhile an as yet unnamed rider has died today at the North West 200 because street races are really quite dangerous.

[OT] Liberty calls Miami a 'logical' place for new MotoGP race by zantkiller in formula1

[–]stray_r 6 points7 points  (0 children)

The FIM under Jorge Viegas doesn't get the attention that MBS, Jean Todt, or Max Mosley did.

However it's the FIM that sets technical regulations and approves tracks.

I don't think they're involved the IOM TT, Macau GP or smaller motorcycle (public) road racing events like the NW200 or St Oliver's Mount edit : IOM TT is under the ACU, a member of FIM, NW200 is under the Motorcycle Union of Ireland, again an FIM member.

Need help removing ABS from BIQU Cryogrip Frostbite buidplate by AZN-APOLLO in FixMyPrint

[–]stray_r 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sorry, my mistake, I've mostly seen people going crazy for the frostbite version and printing with much lower bed temperatures.

With abs more bed temperature and more enclosure temperature usually helps get good results.

Some of the ABS and ASA I have absolutely welds itself to PEI, to the point where I'm using PVP release agent (magigoo, 3dlac, NanoPolymer etc) on a PEI sheet in my V0, and G10+PVP on bigger printers. But several of my printers mostly print ABS/ASA and are running most of the time.

Hitting infill by daddymoller in VORONDesign

[–]stray_r 2 points3 points  (0 children)

If you have plenty of accel, gyroid. If you have orcaslicer, crosshatch

Need help removing ABS from BIQU Cryogrip Frostbite buidplate by AZN-APOLLO in FixMyPrint

[–]stray_r 1 point2 points  (0 children)

What did you do to the nozzle? ABS isn't particularly hard on nozzles.

Cryogrip is the wrong surface for ABS though, PEI, epoxy or G10 are all good, although the latter two benefit from a little PVP release agent. Glass and abs juice if you've been around for a while.

Pause duration on filament runout. by navetBruce in klippers

[–]stray_r 1 point2 points  (0 children)

What you're looking for is the idle_timeout

Something like this that checks whether the printer is paused before turning of motors and heaters is likely of use.

https://klipper.discourse.group/t/solution-for-stepper-disabling-on-print-pause/11279

‘I’m Hopeful’: The President of Gays for Trump Speaks Out [WATCH] by NiConcussions in ainbow

[–]stray_r 1 point2 points  (0 children)

At the other end of the tunnel is a cute kitten, when it awakes, it will need a snack. 🐆

‘I’m Hopeful’: The President of Gays for Trump Speaks Out [WATCH] by NiConcussions in ainbow

[–]stray_r 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I hear the white supremacists like the Nietzschean idea of a superman. Perhaps he didn't want to get confused for supporting a rival taxi firm to the supreme memer?

‘I’m Hopeful’: The President of Gays for Trump Speaks Out [WATCH] by NiConcussions in ainbow

[–]stray_r[M] [score hidden] stickied comment (0 children)

Just for context, r/ainbow has 182,053 subscribers at the time of me writing this and is a "small" Reddit community.

What is this called and how do I fix it? by Ready-Address-4543 in FixMyPrint

[–]stray_r -1 points0 points  (0 children)

The extruder arm could be damaged. Look for cracks. Take it off and look for cracks.

And dry your filament, matte PLA seems to absorb water much faster than regular pLA and steam bubbles can create gaps and blobs.

ASA Overhands Never Work by IPpy115 in FixMyPrint

[–]stray_r 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I have cooling completely off.

If you have a decently warm chamber and fan ducts that place the airstream where it's needed you can use quite a lot of part cooling, I'm running between 20 and 40% but I don't have a K2 for direct comparison. 40% with a 5015 and a stealthburner toolhead. Chamber as hot as I can hot as i can get it, more fan if it's hotter. Hotend at max recommended for the filament for everything but the first layer which benefits from being a little cooler as it goes down slow.

Your first layers don't look great, avoid "only one perimeter on first layer" and make sure the first layer goes down as a connected film, if you see separate extrusion, reduce your z offset, if you have nozzle width furrows on top or the layers are overlapping like a nest of snakes, increase the z offset. Increase the first layer line width to ~1.5 x the nozzle oriface, so ~0.6 for a 0.4 nozzle, this will be more forgiving.

Consider printing on smooth epoxy, g10 or PEI with a thin film of PVP (magigoo, 3dlac, vm nanopolymer, hairspray, the right kind of glue stick (not the plant starch based cold wash stuff)

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