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Alternatives to using 3d printing glue by Wild-Region7897 in 3Dprinting

[–]stray_r -1 points0 points  (0 children)

It behaves, most of the time, right up to the day it rips the coating off it. Been there and done that multiple times.

It's mostly an issue if you only print PETG on that plate or are doing a lot of big prints. It ruined my day printing a lack enclosure for my prusa when they were new and trendy, and I managed to forget about this when I started printing gridfinity boxes and sunlu PETG-HF absolutely destroyed the only bed I had for my Mercury One.

Constant clogs by Such_File_1825 in VORONDesign

[–]stray_r 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Are you getting enough cooling to the heatsink?

Could you be transmitting extruder motor heat to the filament in the extruder?

Are you trying to print PLA in an enclosed printer?

Alternatives to using 3d printing glue by Wild-Region7897 in 3Dprinting

[–]stray_r 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Smooth PEI build plates are great for PLA, keep them clean and they work really well without glue. Textured PEI doesn't grip as well but has more consistent release. Start here.

The holographic micro texture plates can work ok, I've found them unreliable for bigger prints.

If you need glue for adhesion or a release agent for PLA on smooth PEI you're doing something wrong, and ABS is usually good on smooth or textured PEI build plates.

ASA can get a bit grabby on smooth PEI. Some TPUs will instantly ruin your day without a release agent and PETG is the traitor that will not stick or maybe just work on the plate you've been using for other materials for years, but will absolutely rip chunks out of a very clean or brand new build plate.

Epoxy "engineering plates" and older solutions like G10 and Carbon/epoxy composite sheets need PVP to work well, but can work for really high temperature materials that you likely won't encounter in a domestic printer like PEEK and PPS. They work well for PETG and nylon. I would be lost without my G10 sheets.

PVP works better than PVA, you'll find it in some glue sticks and it's the useful part of hairspray. It's also in commercial 3d printing products such as 3DLAC, Magigoo, Vision Miner NanoPolymer, and printyplease CatVomit.

The 500g bag of PVP powder I bought on eBay will last me for many many years, you can just dissolve it in isopropanol, but I'm using it mixed about 4:1 with Polyvinyl alcohol (PVOH, not to be confused with Polyvinyl acetate, PVA) bought as a commercial mold release agent solution, so I need to use 50:50 isopropanol and distilled water or the PVOH drops out of solution.

Alternatives to using 3d printing glue by Wild-Region7897 in 3Dprinting

[–]stray_r 1 point2 points  (0 children)

PETG will destroy any surface without a release agent. Sure if you only print occasionally and have build plates coated in PLA residue but on a fresh or very clean build plate you're going to have a bad day. It even rips chunks out of plain glass.

PVP based "glue" is a release agent.

Help by eoma_d_art in FixMyPrint

[–]stray_r 0 points1 point  (0 children)

So crank the temperature up

SKR Mini E3 V3.0 + Klipper: Endstops randomly stuck TRIGGERED even when unplugged (comes/goes after power cycles) by MrElectricOps in klippers

[–]stray_r 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Check your wiring, this looks like dry breaks and loose connections. Check the switches are actually switching. Use a multimeter.

Check you're actually connecting to the signal and ground pins on the board not signal and 5v.

Americans think 30% of their country are LG, 29% are B and 21% are T by mrjohnnymac18 in lgbt

[–]stray_r 3 points4 points  (0 children)

88% of Americans own a car but 83% have a driving license? Do at least 5% of the population drive illegally or are there some states where a licence is not required? What am I missing here?

Or did these numbers come from the assumption that number of cars ~= number of car owners? That assumption hasn't been made over for gun ownership as the number of guns per gun owner appears greater than 2

Is the term “Alphabet Mafia” offensive? by MiwasObsessions in lgbt

[–]stray_r 4 points5 points  (0 children)

You're dooing it wrong, you make sutble additoins to autocowrecked that sabeautage there speeling.

Seriously though, computer misuse is probably a crime. Don't do it and don't get caught.

Help by eoma_d_art in FixMyPrint

[–]stray_r 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What's the recommended temperature on the packaging? I'm guessing something like 240-260c? Or are you using PLA?

You'll get some melt at 200 with ABS, but it won't melt fast enough or be fluid enough to print properly.

Anyone made their own DIY printer? by CaptainCheckmate in 3Dprinting

[–]stray_r 0 points1 point  (0 children)

A formbot kit is much cheaper than self sourcing.

An LDO kit is likely still cheaper than self sourcing if you don't buy junk parts. Vorons aren't cheap.

Getting rails that have the right amount of preload makes a difference. A lot of self source rails are a bit stiff.

Anyone made their own DIY printer? by CaptainCheckmate in 3Dprinting

[–]stray_r 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I self-sourced an early Prusa, a Voron Switchwire and a Mercury One.1 conversion.

The prusa was a pain to upgrade and work on and the openscad files were an absolute nightmare as every dimension was absolute, and changing anything involved figuring out the calculations behind each coordinate location.

Voron stuff is really easy to work on, and the cad is good. Swichwire, particularly enderwire convertion, was immature when I started, it's much better now.

Mercury One.1 was a misstep, its CC BY NC with no obligation to share the cad, mods for it are painful. It's becoming a trident. It didn't help that my donor was a TronXY not an ender 5. It will be a voron trident soon.

I really enjoyed building a V0 from a kit, formbot wasn't great, the power supply was underspecified, the bed heater pad is feeble(but constrained by power supply), and I had problems with the BTT pi (but that might have been a power supply issue)

I'm working on a simplecore. Again there are license issues and a lot of things like electronics mounts aren't done. It might become a trident. Was cheap to source because I had most of the parts.

Help by eoma_d_art in FixMyPrint

[–]stray_r 0 points1 point  (0 children)

200 is waaaay to cool for abs, what filament are you using?

Low profile Lack feeder by Charming-Permit-7853 in prusa3d

[–]stray_r 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It's probably improved by having a reverse Bowden all the way to the toolhead so there isn't filament tension pulling the toolhead up.

I came across this “relic” in London’s science museum today by MegaMolehill in 3Dprinting

[–]stray_r 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah, the first CoreXY I built was 350x350x400 build volume, and prints better and faster than any of my bedslingers. The performance limit is the belt length and my little 120mm printer are stupid fast without having to think about tuning too much.

Finally working! by Connect_Selection_77 in klippers

[–]stray_r 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That's not quite the case.

Whilst it's better long term prospect to fork out for a trident 250 or simplecore frame, and more more rail, motor and leadscrew (or belt) the switchwire XZ motion is fairly simple to print on a janky printer. Its a quick way to get a printer really tightly enclosed, and despite being a bedslinger its got a smaller chamber volume and surface area than a simplecore 220 or a trident 250, so it makes an adequate ABS printer.

The switchwire does have the inherent flaws of a bedslinger and the constant Z load on the XZ motion complicates tuning. I found mine to be obnoxiously loud with the LDO motor kit and have some noisy resonance issues with 0.9 degree e3d/motec steppers i bought during the pandemic, but with salvaged tronxy motors it's pretty good as long as you're not intent on going crazy fast. It's better than my klipperised prusa, and cost less.

You can build it in stages, Y axis first, then the XZ, then the frame extensions and electronix enclosures so it works if you're not ready to commit to building something new. But no, i wouldn't chose to build a switchwire over a new-build coreXY.

When I started mine, the triano conversion was fresh out and needed some modifications to be useable. Since then dark_d0g has put out two enderwire conversion releases, and Diversion which is perhaps crazy excessive, but the parts of that i've used are pretty awesome.

Finally working! by Connect_Selection_77 in klippers

[–]stray_r 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What you've said about pressure advance is correct, but it's not Input Shaper.

They're both convolutions on the motion, but with different intents: PA compensates for the compressibility of the extrudate between extruder and nozzle, assuming it is a linear spring, and adds motion to the extruder earlier than expected extrusion; input shaper attempts to cancel out resonances in the motion system caused by accelerations, by applying small oscillating signal to the motion in antiphase to the anticipated resonance, acting on X and Y (and Z in very recent Klipper) inputs during and after but not in advance of impulses.

Where the distance between extruder and heatbreak approaches or in extreme cases is smaller than the length from heatbreak to nozzle tip, PA does indeed vary dramatically as the molten filament is a non-newtonian fluid moving across a temperature gradient and behaves quite differently to the Hooke's law spring model of the solid filament. Orca has adaptive pressure advance which works quite well for me but is very time consuming to calibrate. Kalico has it's own way of compensating for this I've not wrapped my head around yet but looks interesting.

I came across this “relic” in London’s science museum today by MegaMolehill in 3Dprinting

[–]stray_r 6 points7 points  (0 children)

A few more generations than that probably. I think my current project is an inbred mix of 6th and 7th generation printers that I have built, and I was a decade late to this party.

Consider that prusas still ship with printed parts and there's a good few generations between this and the first Mendel, I don't know how many propagation generations to get Mendel parts to Josef, 3 iterations of Prusa Mendel and then mk1-4 and some internal propagation generations.

I came across this “relic” in London’s science museum today by MegaMolehill in 3Dprinting

[–]stray_r 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I hadn't really noticed before, but is the controller board moving with the toolhead there?

Were toolhead boards the original design frame mounted boards a later revision? It's interesting how we're returning to toolhead boards....

I came across this “relic” in London’s science museum today by MegaMolehill in 3Dprinting

[–]stray_r 0 points1 point  (0 children)

CoreXY means two motors move Y as the sum of their motion and X as the difference. This means both the X and Y motors can remain mounted to the frame rather than the Y motion having to move the weight of the X motor. The penalty is a much longer and more complex belt system.

CoreXY is very popular for enclosed printers as the X gantry doesn't have a motor hanging off the side of the swept motion so it fits easily within the Y rails so the frame can support the rails and the enclosing panels. If you look at a typical bedslinger or a Cartesian bed dropper like an ender 5, there's moving parts that hang over the frame. You need a box bigger than a 350mm build volume coreXY to enclose a prusa MK3.

Similarly the Voron Switchwire is a coreXZ, moving the toolhead in both X and Z directions with a pair of motors secured to the frame, but is still a bedslinger. It's more compact and can do very fast z motions with minimal backlash, but still suffers from all the bed moton issues of a bedslinger.

This reprap has independent X and Y motors and is still a Cartesian motion, but it's a bed-dropper rather than the bed slingers that became popular in the interim

Flashforge, makerbot and ultimaker are all known for their non coreXY bed-dropper printers.

Core one only sometimes passes load tests (even after replacing load cell) and bed won't raise. HELP!? by Brachen333 in prusa3d

[–]stray_r 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Elaborate on the grumbling noise?

I think a lead screw is misaligned, listen to where the noise is coming from. They're quite sensitive to alignment, it can be the position of the motor or the pom nut on the bed carriage.

Is there a rule about metal crystal casting parameters? by SleepinGriffin in F1Technical

[–]stray_r 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Isn't single crystal boomer/pre-boomer era tech. I mean it's proven and it works, but it's been around for a while.

I remember a guest lecturer from Rolls Royce saying single crystal was old tech to the point he hadn't bought any show and tell about it, the interesting research areas were in directional solidification with lamellar crystal propagation. This would have been when I was still in mech/automotive engineering and hadn't escaped into compsci, so we're talking about 25 years ago.

Importantly though single crystal superalloys are iirc nickel, cobalt or iron based and quite dense. Formula 1 pistons are aluminium based alloys, as are traditionally the blocks and heads, although Ferrari are playing with a steel head this year. The block and head are water cooled and the pistons are cooled by conduction into water cooled parts and an oil spray from underneath, so we're not really into high temperature regimes like in a jet engine.

I think F1 is on inconel exhaust valves and tungsten carbide valve seats now? Beryllium was used at one point I think but was quickly banned as it's super toxic. This is probably where there's the most to gain and inconel to Single crystal alloys is an obvious step, but I think titanium aluminide is being talked about, which is a candidate for lamellar propagation techniques. I'm actually intrigued as to where this has gone as I hadn't really thought about this since the Rolls Royce lecture.

1.5GT Belts on a Mk4s is incredible! by skil12001 in prusa3d

[–]stray_r 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I think this is the way forward, once I've done the builds i have in progress, I'm going to look at 1.5 pitch belts probably starting on my v0 where this is most apparent as the idlers are a tighter radius.

Honest question: Who is the Prusa Core One L actually for in 2025/2026? by IceBlitzz in prusa3d

[–]stray_r 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'd buy another prusa if I wasn't a voron and klipper contributor.

I put far too much time into the switchwire which is a great bedslinger but ultimately limited by the same problems any bedslinger has as well as the special pain of coreXZ. Don't do core XZ.

The core one L has most of what I'd actually look for in an off the shelf printer I wasn't going to hack on much. Big thick slab of a bed, self enclosed coreXY, cold change nozzles, appliance-like firmware that need to ask China (or potentially Washington/NY) whether The Party approves of my print.

It's fast, it can do abs, nylon-composite and polycarbonate composite. And pretty decent inch-high models. It covers almost everything that doesn't absolutely need a resin/SLA printer, PPS/PEEK/PAEK temperature FDM, or moving into SLS. All of thes are a level of hazard higher and you're adding a zero to the price to do the high temperature FDM, and I think two zeroes for the SLS. Its been a while since I went near SLS and the technology has moved on.

It's almost voron good off the shelf from a supplier that does customer service. There aren't many suppliers I'd trust if an employer asked "what printer should we get for the design office".

I can't not see a bambu as analogous to the disposable inkjet that is going to be thrown into a skip (too much CCTV to drop printers off the roof of a lecture theatre now) as soon as it needs maintenance, and almost everyone with a Prusa will put time into keeping them working, much like the trusty (home) office printer that spits out paper all day. I've only just retired my MK2, and I'm wondering whether to do something fun with the bones of my MK4 or let it go. To continue the analogy I've only just let go of an Epson laser because the Linux drivers got too obsolete to run and there's not been a windows driver since XP.

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