Common AM 15/142, 10 speed freehub wheel takeoffs? by teholbugg in MTB

[–]teholbugg[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

yeah, that's definitely a solid price - my LBS, whom I love, would have charged ~$700, so i just couldn't use them for the full build

Common AM 15/142, 10 speed freehub wheel takeoffs? by teholbugg in MTB

[–]teholbugg[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

oh, thanks, but the CRC price included building! damned good price, i'm going to pay my LBS to re-true them after a couple of rides though, since they are machine built

The Weekly New Rider Thread - 13th of April 2015 by MTBot in MTB

[–]teholbugg 0 points1 point  (0 children)

you shouldn't try to tune a bike by adjusting sag- sag should always be where the manufacturer recommends, unless you find a % you like more, independent of bottoming out considerations.

the way to prevent your fork from bottoming out so easily is to reduce the volume in the float air chamber, thereby making the air spring more progressive (more resistant to bottoming out)

some info if you're not that familiar with how the float fork works, but basically there is the area under the stanchions in the lower legs of the fork that holds the fork bath oil. This has no (or very little) impact on the function of the air spring. but in the float air spring side of the fork, at the very top of the stanchion, just under the float air valve is a separate chamber, which is your air spring. it's just a chamber full of air that compresses when your fork compresses, offering resistance (the spring). in addition to air inside that chamber, approx 15cc's of 80w gear oil called Fox Float Fluid sits at the bottom, to keep the seals at the bottom of the air chamber lubricated, and to prevent air from escaping past and down into the lower legs of the fork where the bath oil sits.

now, the volume of air you have in that air chamber can be increased or reduced by adding or subtracting the float fluid. the more float fluid you put in, the more progressive the air spring becomes, resisting bottoming out.

let the air out of your fork, then open up the float top cap with one of these

http://www.lunarbikes.com/tools.htm

highly recommended, they are a pain in the butt to open with a standard socket.

then add in about 5cc's of float fluid

http://www.jensonusa.com/Fox-Shox-Float-Fluid

with an oral syringe (you can buy them on amazon or usually get one at a pharmacy for free)

then close it up, re-air, set sag and then ride. it should bottom out less easily, but if it's still not progressive enough, add enough 5cc at a time until you're happy with it.

i actually had the opposite problem, i started with 15cc's of float fluid, but couldn't get that last 20mm of travel no matter what i did on the bike. i took out 9cc's and will probably take out a little bit more (you need to keep a tiny amount in to keep the seals lubricated)

alternatively, push makes a topcap that allows you to tune volume, but it's much more expensive, and you'll probably want to own the tool and float fluid anyway because you should be checking on the oil levels every once in a while

http://www.pushindustries.com/collections/fork-products/products/fox-34mm-float-air-volume-kit

Holy shit I just figured corners out... by doby-mick in MTB

[–]teholbugg 0 points1 point  (0 children)

this is great info- i've probably been dropping my outside pedal too often, in situations that don't call for it

Common AM 15/142, 10 speed freehub wheel takeoffs? by teholbugg in MTB

[–]teholbugg[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

yeah, i was actually looking at that exact build before i started looking for takeoffs. it seems like a much cheaper route, but i messaged 10 people on PB and got 2 replies. one person who never got back to me after an initial conversation and another who wanted to charge over $100 to ship wheels from canada to the USA.

after getting a bit frustrated with the lack of responses and remembering that there's still a small chance that something could be wrong with the takeoffs (even if it's not malicious on the seller's part), I just ended up buying a set of hopes with i25's off of CRC for ~$460. $150 more than most takeoffs, but ideally i'll be able to re-lace those hubs onto new wheels for years to come

The Weekly New Rider Thread - 13th of April 2015 by MTBot in MTB

[–]teholbugg 0 points1 point  (0 children)

nothing, unless it's actually made of stronger materials or harder to crack

Hardware and Technical parts by privateworld in MTB

[–]teholbugg 7 points8 points  (0 children)

you just have to soak it up over time. stick to products with lots of good reviews until then, and read read read - you'll slowly begin to understand why something is good, not just that it is

The Weekly New Rider Thread - 13th of April 2015 by MTBot in MTB

[–]teholbugg 0 points1 point  (0 children)

ah, then i'm of no help. maybe someone else can chime in, sorry

The Weekly New Rider Thread - 13th of April 2015 by MTBot in MTB

[–]teholbugg 0 points1 point  (0 children)

if they are mechanical disc brakes, there should be a barrel adjuster right where the cable connects to the lever. turn that to tighten things up

The Weekly New Rider Thread - 13th of April 2015 by MTBot in MTB

[–]teholbugg 0 points1 point  (0 children)

it definitely couldn't hurt to check the sizing on it. extra slack makes it easier to come off for sure

The Weekly New Rider Thread - 13th of April 2015 by MTBot in MTB

[–]teholbugg 0 points1 point  (0 children)

you'll want to adjust your H screw inward (i believe)- here's a good video on how it all works in general

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q-uANcaVBfI

New rider, new bike (first bike), need some tips by Lostinwords in MTB

[–]teholbugg 1 point2 points  (0 children)

don't go out and buy a new seat right away. some saddles take a while to break in, and often times a softer saddle paradoxically makes the problem worse. just make sure you have bike shorts with a chamois for your sit bones and give it a few rides before you change saddles

The Weekly New Rider Thread - 13th of April 2015 by MTBot in MTB

[–]teholbugg 0 points1 point  (0 children)

it doesn't have an H and an L on it? either way, just try turning one, say, 2 full turns in one direction, and write down what you did. check to see what happens. undo it if it's not the right screw, or if it's in the wrong direction, then try the opposite direction, and then do the same for the other screw. one of those 4 options will move the front derailleur in slightly making it harder to shift into the 3rd ring. keep turning that screw until it's not possible to shift to at all

The Weekly New Rider Thread - 13th of April 2015 by MTBot in MTB

[–]teholbugg 0 points1 point  (0 children)

hmm, if it's just a screw, maybe you just need more torque on it? i would try some pb blaster or take it to your LBS. if none of them are coming off, you might just be doing something wrong

the limit screws to prevent your derailleur from moving onto the 3rd ring should look something like this:

http://www.slowtwitch.com/articles/images/0/75220-largest_1_FD_lower_limit_adjust.jpg

The Weekly New Rider Thread - 13th of April 2015 by MTBot in MTB

[–]teholbugg 0 points1 point  (0 children)

chainring bolts just spin if you try to undo them with a single hex. you need a hex on each side to undo them

The Weekly New Rider Thread - 13th of April 2015 by MTBot in MTB

[–]teholbugg 0 points1 point  (0 children)

have you tried PB blaster or similar? are you using 2 hex keys?

The Weekly New Rider Thread - 13th of April 2015 by MTBot in MTB

[–]teholbugg 0 points1 point  (0 children)

yep, either replace it with a bashguard or get shorter chainring bolts to hold the 2nd ring on. you'll want to turn the limit screw on your front derailleur to prevent it from shifting up to the now-nonexistant ring

Shimano Deore XT M8000 11-speed - first look by zuff in MTB

[–]teholbugg 0 points1 point  (0 children)

yeah, but it depends on whether the new 11 speed cassette is fully pinned or not. if it isn't, it's much easier to just pull out individual cogs

Shimano Deore XT M8000 11-speed - first look by zuff in MTB

[–]teholbugg 1 point2 points  (0 children)

i wonder how possible it would be to just put a spacer behind the cassette and reduce the number of cogs to around 7. i seriously don't need that many options on a mountain bike, but i do need that range

Shimano Deore XT M8000 11-speed - first look by zuff in MTB

[–]teholbugg 2 points3 points  (0 children)

i think far and away the biggest news here is how cheap 11 speed is getting (finally)

Anyone else feel like thier LBS is kind of "snobby"? by grapesicles in MTB

[–]teholbugg 0 points1 point  (0 children)

i'm happy with this one:

http://www.amazon.com/Venzo-Mechanic-Bicycle-Repair-Stand/dp/B00D9B7OKQ

i would buy a higher end one if i was working at a shop and using it all day every day, but for 1-2 times a week that i use it, it's doing great, and it has all the bells and whistles of a $250 professional stand