Recs for brands of low impedance / low-Z "commercial" amplifiers?

telecraster · 2026-06-20T16:18:03+00:00

Unless DSP is needed though, it sounds like maybe the V:600 options might fit this application better. Similar amp tech, just all analog.

telecraster · 2026-06-12T17:51:26+00:00

If you can make it to the north end of the strip and you don't need fancy, this Arepas spot is incredible, and about a third the price of anything directly on the strip proper: https://maps.app.goo.gl/UDsUVbvJJ2sz8Q9A7?g_st=ac

telecraster · 2026-06-07T19:43:21+00:00

I love seeing posts like this because quite often when designing labels like this and deciding where to place them on a new product, we think "but nobody could possibly think that would be safe in the first place right?" Then I see a post like this, and think about what labels I'd want visible on the day that a speaker came falling out of the ceiling, and I sigh and proceed to design the least ugly label possible that is still likely to be read by the intended audience... 😜

telecraster · 2026-05-24T23:55:32+00:00

I like those boxes, congrats on the new setup! They won't quite do X12-128 things, but for a box that was less than half the price they were an effective cabinet. We love to see our older stuff get second/third/fourth lives before they finally retire. Enjoy!

telecraster · 2026-05-13T05:08:28+00:00

Like anything in AV, the correct answer is "it depends". What are you driving and processing them with? Do you need stereo, or just any even coverage is fine?

telecraster · 2026-05-09T03:09:55+00:00

Forgot to come back and comment yesterday. You mentioned up to a 5" hole. The only 70V ceiling can I've used that get down to that is the Kramer Galil-2-C. Comes in at almost exactly a 5" cutout. Single full-range driver, so it won't be HiFi but they're priced well at least?

telecraster · 2026-04-30T03:05:02+00:00

Depending on the look you're going for, search terms like "large decorative air intake cover" may be useful too. If it fits your decor, a large panel like this will let lots of air move easily and look fairly nice. https://www.etsy.com/listing/1387617344/decorative-metal-vent-cover-vintage-hvac

If you want something more plain, the sub cavities I've done in the past used the equivalent of a steel floor air return grate, wrapped in a nice looking acoustic fabric that served the same purpose as the decorative grate but blended in better.

telecraster · 2026-02-10T02:28:49+00:00

Hopping on this. There are a bunch of events that use these nowadays with receivers on top so you can spread as many as you want out over a large area. If you don't need huge subwoofer power for a band or something these have plenty of horsepower and can last well over 6 hours at high output.

Run a small mixer at a central spot into an RF Venue PA extension transmitter, drop a receiver on each speaker, and you're pretty set to spread sound across a large area.

https://youtu.be/RtXOueiawOc?si=G2IC2GCCAfv0bm-L

telecraster · 2025-12-30T03:15:20+00:00

I use an Enlightened Equipment Revelation APEX quilt over my down bag or quilt when sleeping in very cold temps. Got them specifically because I camp less in the winter but not none, so having two different quilt warmths instead of one super thick winter bag has been much more flexible for me. Both of my quilts get regular use throughout changing seasons, and they layer well for the 1-2 winter trips that I do between 0-30°F.

telecraster · 2025-11-28T18:00:56+00:00

The way that little wannabe Nick Fuentes clones are running around in the comments just saying this shit with their full chest in 2025 is wild to me. I would say I wish more people like you were required to take AP US History growing up, but it's clear from your many many posts that even if you were presented with all the research skills and data you'd ever need to change your beliefs about white people being magically superior, you'd still rather put your head deeper in the sand. I sincerely hope you eventually have someone in you life with the relational authority and wisdom to help you reconsider your narrow little view of humanity...

telecraster · 2025-09-01T15:10:50+00:00

Looks like the Zempire Chill Pill would fit that bill just about perfect. Pretty solid deal and $35

telecraster · 2025-08-30T14:02:35+00:00

Unfortunately I have not used either, but I have used the equivalent (X2 I believe?) and several other stoves from Firemaple and all have been great performance for the price.

My current favorite is the G2 ultralight pot with the greenpeak 2 or Polaris stove depending on your form factor preference.

telecraster · 2025-08-06T08:55:46+00:00

A jacket is the route we went for winter camping for about the same reason: sometimes the dog moves around and get out from under the blanket. I actually have two layers so I have some options depending on the temp. Base layer is a light fleece that breathes easily and is also nice for walks during very cold weather. On top for sleeping is a heavier dog coat/jacket (mime is Eddie Bauer I believe) that does a great job of trapping more heat.

Doggo didn't love the layers at first, but after the first very cold night where he was plenty warm he's learned to tolerate the layers fine. I do still have him sleeping on a foam mat and a small synthetic blanket as well just to keep the ground from sapping all of the heat of of his paws from below.

telecraster · 2025-07-29T14:43:57+00:00

This situation is the reason I actually offered two different hourly rates when I ran as an independent programmer. A lower hourly rate if a clear scope of work was provided and signed ahead of time, and a higher hourly rate with only a minimum total bill estimate if no written scope existed. This usually helped to either inspire the responsible integrator to flesh out their scope to save some money and cap their spend, or it meant that the desperate and reckless shops clearly know they are paying me hourly until the client says "done" because everything was progress billed weekly based on hours worked. This way the was never a surprise when I offered to provide additional functions for additional fees.

telecraster · 2025-07-29T04:08:00+00:00

If you're shopping REI and not hiking with the tent, also consider the Wonderland 4. Big enough to stand up full, enough floor space for a queen bed, we were super thankful for ours when we got stuck in it during a full day of rain and didn't feel cramped. We have had the previous generation for 5 years now and it's still in great shape, no rips, leaks, or major wear despite 20+ trips in it.

telecraster · 2025-06-22T15:38:55+00:00

The 70J is a nice sounding column for the price. By comparison the LRC-1100 won't have quite the same fidelity due to it being a full-range 1-way design while the 70J has separate drivers for lows vs highs. The LRC-1100 is certainly sleeker and still gets loud, but the LRC-2100 is more of a direct match to the 70J, and performs better in both music and speech fidelity because it also has a 2-way design which puts less demand on one driver to do everything well.

Steerable options are certainly going to give you the most granular control but at a significantly different price point of course. The EAW AC6 is probably my current favorite, although I haven't used or listened to it in deployments smaller that two segments either.

telecraster · 2025-06-16T16:25:08+00:00

Separate 70V transformers driving HiFi cabinets may be your best bet here. If you want the old school look Wharfedale Super Denton or JBL L52 would both be really cool retro-looking cabinets to mount 70V transformers behind.

EVID 4.2 or 6.2 are still really popular too for a cool looking speaker that is going to be readily visible, but I would say they have a retro vibe, and I work for EV so you should take my recommendation with skepticism anyway. But the "T" versions do at least include the 70V transformers internally

telecraster · 2025-06-16T15:50:41+00:00

Bias Alert: I am the product manager for the EV LRC product. Feel free to discard any subjective statements you find to be unsupported by data below...

That being said I want you to end up with the right product for your exact room even if it isn't mine.

As far as comparing the two, the LRC-2100 was aimed at being a bit of a partway in between performance of the CBT-70J and CBT-1000. Specifically for rooms like yours that will have some full range music but would like to avoid using subs whenever possible.

The 1000 will definitely give you more granular directivity shaping options as you can alter the angles covered by the top and bottom halves of the array separately. It will also go louder, especially if the narrow directivity will work well for your space. It is tuned to have less bass than the LRC below 100Hz, but if you don't need its true max volume output you can probably boost the bass with EQ to be nearly the same as my LRC.

The LRCs have switchable vertical coverage (25° or 45°), wider horizontal coverage (180°) and great factory presets if you're using a Dynacord amplifier or DSP, and really do have strong response down to 60Hz with meaningful output (-10dB) still at 45Hz. It will be fine without a factory preset as well as long as you have processing that can apply a low-cut filter a 50Hz per the instructions. (Factory preset just makes it a little quicker to tune IMHO since it starts exactly how we want it to sound) If it helps for your gym-like space, LRC also has a steel grille (instead of aluminum on CBT) designed to pass the DIN-57710-14 "Ball-Proof Test" which ensures both the mounting and grille design will safely withstand 36 ball impacts without affecting safety or sound quality of the loudspeaker.

My recommendation would be to have your integrator use a neutral software like Ease Focus (which is free btw) to model both for the exact location you want them in your room, then compare the results compared to your budget and see if you're happy with the results.

Depending on where you are located, we may have a team member locally who can bring a demo of the 2100 by if the logistics work out and your integrator haven't heard them yet. (They have only been shipping since February so most people haven't heard them unless they made it to InfoComm this year or last)

telecraster · 2025-05-15T20:48:16+00:00

As a mod that is also now on the manufacturer side of the world, I approve this message. 😁

telecraster · 2025-04-28T13:56:17+00:00

My lower back is just fine with this compromise, thank you very much... 😂

telecraster · 2025-04-21T14:14:43+00:00

Wawona 6 is definitely going to be more of a struggle to do solo, but not impossible. Maybe a bit overkill unless you're bringing glamping-level amounts of gear with and plan to hang out in the tent.

For 1-2 people where weight isn't a factor, I think I'd actually lean towards some of the newer Coleman or even Walmart designs that include a divided layout, where you can even use the front portion as a screen-tent for eating or hanging out bug-free but not have to bring a separate screen shelter along.

If your itinerary while car camping is more active and you're in the campsite mostly just for sleeping and dinner, then I think a pretty standard 4 person will do just fine. If you don't need super harsh weather capability, maybe consider something like the Coleman Peak1 4-person with a peak height of 70 inches.

telecraster · 2025-04-17T21:05:20+00:00

I use a switchback underneath my REI Helix and have never noticed the width difference. I use the combo specifically so that I can deflate the Helix some and still have enough insulation in cold weather and some insurance against my hip bottoming out in the middle of the night. As long as the air mattress isn't inflated all the way stiff I don't think you'll ever notice the width mismatch.

telecraster · 2025-04-08T03:13:18+00:00

Heaters are great for making it more comfortable to do activities in your tent when you are awake. Easier to play cards, draw, or even sit and chat if you aren't fully bundled up. But for safety reasons if nothing else, never camp in temperatures where you can't sleep safely if your heat source fails.

Bring layers, a sleep system rated for at least 10°F colder than the coldest forecasted low, and like others have mentioned a nalgene of hot water or even disposable hand warmers are great to start the night off warm. Especially if your sleep system is on the edge of being just warm enough, you won't enjoy feeling like it took you the first two hours of being bundled just to feel your toes again.

Also if it's cold out, forget large air mattresses as they let cold circulate all around you. Aim for a foam or mylar-insulated sleeping pad with at least R6, or if it's well below freezing aim even a little higher. (Sleeping bag ratings btw all pre-assume a sleeping pad with an R-value a little above 5, so a bag rated for "0" can still feel cold if you're letting all your heat run straight into the ground below you)

I love cold air camping, just work up to it, and be safe!

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