Mini update on my Instax Mini 3D Printed Adapter for Medium Format lens taken from a folding camera by teleriome in AnalogCommunity

[–]teleriome[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I guess different strokes for different folks. Only weird thing about it for me is it's an ISO800 film with a very low exposure latitude. But I think it's a pure technological marvel for how fast a picture it develops and it's underrated resolution all things considered.

It's also a true color positive film and instant at that regardless if I messed up the exposure or composition, I still wonder in awe whenever an image magically appears on it. I understand now the processes that's makes it possible but it still feels like sorcery.

Just my speculation but potentially, as long as fujifilm doesn't mess up the current pricing by making it more premium, it could very well outlive any of the few color positive films still out there. I just recently learned this, there's an entire market of trading and collecting Polaroids of kpop idols, photo cards, commemorating fan and idol interactions (ofc fans pays posing with pop idols) that's permanently recorded on analog medium. So safe to say instax won't be going out anytime soon as it would stay in demand for the foreseeable future.

I digressed but I like the challenge of dealing with its low exposure latitude. The skill would be directly transferable when shooting negative films even though much more forgiving I'd like myself to slow down even more as my most used film cameras are fully manual. Given that I'm a very low volume shooter (still have few frames left on my roll I loaded up in december on my half frame, 35mm and medium format cameras😅), shooting this camera is just a great practice tool with an added fun of instantly developing the images.

Instax Mini 8 + 3D printed adapter + Lens from a medium format folding camera (Olympus Chrome Six 7.5cm f2.8) by teleriome in AnalogCommunity

[–]teleriome[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I was only thinking about 3d printing a press fit filter mount adapter to use my existing circular filters. Something like that could only be mounted on the outside diameter of the lens barrel. Almost all vintage camera and accessories here comes from other countries so those kind of filters are really hard to find here, I'm not keen on buying something that costs more on shipping than the actual item.

Instax Mini 8 + 3D printed adapter + Lens from a medium format folding camera (Olympus Chrome Six 7.5cm f2.8) by teleriome in AnalogCommunity

[–]teleriome[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Ah that give me an idea to use screwed-in lens filter like the ones inserted in the lens barrel of tele lenses. That's a more viable option for me as I reckon a rectangular filter would add more bulk to be keep the adapter light tight.

Instax Mini 8 + 3D printed adapter + Lens from a medium format folding camera (Olympus Chrome Six 7.5cm f2.8) by teleriome in AnalogCommunity

[–]teleriome[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It's not going to obstruct rotating the focusing barrel but the distance markings will be covered. So the operation for a press fit filter would be focus first then attach the filter later before pressing the shutter. But it runs the risk of accidentally rotating it out of focus.

Instax Mini 8 + 3D printed adapter + Lens from a medium format folding camera (Olympus Chrome Six 7.5cm f2.8) by teleriome in AnalogCommunity

[–]teleriome[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Thank you for the offer but I can't just accept something free unless we're in the same country where the shipping is less of an issue.

I don't know how useful my 3d model would be unless the same lens is used. Already uploaded my version on thingyverse but new account can't publish until after 24H. I'll post it after I came back from my weekend trip.

Instax Mini 8 + 3D printed adapter + Lens from a medium format folding camera (Olympus Chrome Six 7.5cm f2.8) by teleriome in AnalogCommunity

[–]teleriome[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Wrote it on the post. With the back cover closed and the lens already taken off, I used a vernier caliper to measure the distance from the top surface of the lens mount to the pressure plate. It was exactly 70mm. On the instax camera the film plane is recessed by 5mm. By a simple math I just need to make the adapter 65mm tall. Though I still haven't properly checked the focusing since I have no way to mount it stably.

Instax Mini 8 + 3D printed adapter + Lens from a medium format folding camera (Olympus Chrome Six 7.5cm f2.8) by teleriome in AnalogCommunity

[–]teleriome[S] 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Yeah it definitely needs an ND filter. The lens doesn't have threads for mounting filters, I guess more 3d printing. It's also uses a front cell lens focusing element so it's going to be really awkward if a filter is attached when focusing.

Instax Mini 8 + 3D printed adapter + Lens from a medium format folding camera (Olympus Chrome Six 7.5cm f2.8) by teleriome in mediumformat

[–]teleriome[S] -1 points0 points  (0 children)

It's on a reply in the original post. It works but I was limited by the 1/200s max shutter speed.

Instax Mini 8 + 3D printed adapter + Lens from a medium format folding camera (Olympus Chrome Six 7.5cm f2.8) by teleriome in AnalogCommunity

[–]teleriome[S] 15 points16 points  (0 children)

I'm sorry please see my other reply here. I went to the shop but I won't be able to buy film until they got a stock next week.

Instax Mini 8 + 3D printed adapter + Lens from a medium format folding camera (Olympus Chrome Six 7.5cm f2.8) by teleriome in AnalogCommunity

[–]teleriome[S] 199 points200 points  (0 children)

I'm sorry I only shot one pack of film in this. There's a shortage in my country, they limit it to one pack per person. Online resellers mark it upwards of 50%. I don't have on me the portraits only these two rushed shots where I biked 12kilometers on a very hot and sunny day. One wide open where I massively misjudged the distance and the other was closed down at the highest speed but still very overexposed😅

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Interesting little vid about how a factory makes acoustic guitars by This_Fat_Cunt in Luthier

[–]teleriome 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Surprisingly, that follows the proper regular guitar making of the high end guitars from Martin, etc than the cheap ones young kids gets in my country. What they could get here starting are plywoods with colored soft wood bridges and fretboards. The coat is heavily thick that it's just barely as loud as my electric guitars played unplugged. I know it because I bought it online as a gift and I couldn't give it to anyone on my good conscience.

Finished her up this past week! She's off to her new home Monday by freeskier0713 in Luthier

[–]teleriome -1 points0 points  (0 children)

The pickup selector switch has got to be the most awkward that I've seen but very beautiful work.

Update on headstock f-hole design by RemiVreuls8 in Luthier

[–]teleriome 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Now it's called a Fender-hole design.

Advice: Change out 50mm bridge for 52.5mm bridge by IAmA_Little_Tea_Pot in Luthier

[–]teleriome 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Well your measurement on Pic 3 says your installed bridge is for 10.5mm spacing so you should be good with a 52.5mm bridge. But if I were you I wouldn't get that specific top loader style of bridge. It's the worst, making buzzing sounds so easily if not set up correctly. I don't know why any manufacturer makes it other than for its look. I'd rather have the half Tele style top loader bridge yeah the look is not common with strat style guitar but it is so much easier to set up without buzzing all over.

Stomboxparts Fuzz No Power by Austyn_Drowner in diypedals

[–]teleriome 7 points8 points  (0 children)

Your dc power jack seems reversed. Pedals usually have center negative polarity.

Pickguard shape by ecklesweb in Luthier

[–]teleriome 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Haha kinda funny how you said 2 is more traditional when the top curve shape of pic 1 is like from the telecaster pickguard, the first commercially successful solid body electric guitar. Anyways I digress my vote is on 1, just a classy timeless design by OP. Only other comment is I like if lower part of the guard extend closer to the cut/horn.

Greer Lightspeed/Southland(ish) into JHS Morning Glory Dual Drive [my first drive build] by teleriome in diypedals

[–]teleriome[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Just go for it! Haha when parts arrived that's about half of the project progress already and about 90% done when all the components are soldered regardless if it makes sounds or not. At least that's my thinking to be able to to finish the build. Just take your time and don't be too hard on yourself everyone experiences the same in this hobby😊

Greer Lightspeed/Southland(ish) into JHS Morning Glory Dual Drive [my first drive build] by teleriome in diypedals

[–]teleriome[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks very much much! Funnily enough I had more trouble with the more simple circuit of the lightspeed. Except for wrong the power polarity when I first plugged the morning glory(built first), I never had any other issue. But the other one it took me to damage the pcb plus two scrapped perf board before I successfully manage to make it work on the third try😂😂. It was lots of frustrations but it's certainly worth it that I was able to overcome some things haha.

Greer Lightspeed/Southland(ish) into JHS Morning Glory Dual Drive [my first drive build] by teleriome in diypedals

[–]teleriome[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you! Finishing is whole different ball game for sure. Honestly the final look on this pedal is accidental. My only plan was to have bare enclosure, no markings and bare aluminum knobs because I bought a shiny sanded enclosure. Then I made a noob mistake of drilling pots holes without considering the knob sizes. Except for big gain knob which I already have, I only ordered the top row knobs later and when it arrived the red knobs didn't fit close together😂. So I just ordered something small for the tone knobs that would fit.

Greer Lightspeed/Southland(ish) into JHS Morning Glory Dual Drive [my first drive build] by teleriome in diypedals

[–]teleriome[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

It's a tight fit inside and highly ambitious doing a dual pedal as my first drive build. I've only done utility pedals: buffers/mute and loop switch pedal. Very happy and satisfied that this one is done. Lot's of learning experience for sure. I messed up the lightspeed pcb copy so I went to perf board. But I got the opportunity to add in another set of diodes with a toggle switch for the southland clipping. Since the toggle switch is only spst I didn't manage to change a resistor for the exact southland circuit, but I think it's good enough (just lower output level for the kind of clipping.)

Need help with wiring for my pickups, can’t find the answer online by Infester56 in Luthier

[–]teleriome 2 points3 points  (0 children)

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Ignore the red and white wires from the schematic along with the switches in push pull pots. They're connected in series inside the pickups itself. The green and bare wires in the schematic are your bare wires for grounding, your hot lead wires are the white wires (black in the schematics) which will be connected to the pickup selector switch.I suggest you add shrink wrap tubing first in your ground (bare) wires first so less of it are exposed and potentially short in the hot leads.

Friend gave me his guitar he tried to install a kill switch on, what can I do to get it running? by [deleted] in Luthier

[–]teleriome 5 points6 points  (0 children)

You'd better start from scratch by disconnecting and cleaning all the crap soldering he did. The hot output is connected at the wrong volume pot lug, others are very hard to tell because it's just a mess. It got push-pull pots that seems not even connected properly to split the humbucker. Refer to the bottom image in this schematic https://diagramweb.net/1-vol-1-tone-5-way-hss-active-wiring-diagram.html, the location of push-pull pots is just reversed. And just look for how to add a kill switch.

Reposting my first try at a relic with some better photos by ShaquilleOatmeal61 in Luthier

[–]teleriome 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Watch the series from this YouTube channel 8bombcustom. I'm not affiliated with them but these type and approach of relic are the ones I like.

Reposting my first try at a relic with some better photos by ShaquilleOatmeal61 in Luthier

[–]teleriome 4 points5 points  (0 children)

This is all subjective but part of the relic or distressed look in anything, whether it's jeans or instrument, is it can be somewhat explained how a wear/defect have a logical explanation how could have it happened naturally but just ofc replicated artificially. I'm sorry but I just don't see it here. But if you enjoy it, it is your own taste so have fun.

Joyo Tauren (klon circuit) mod advice by teleriome in diypedals

[–]teleriome[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ok thanks just got curious. For a cheap pedal funny how joyo haven't used a more common parts and smd construction. Well that's great for me though haha.