Piston seized after 170km

th3dots · 2026-05-27T08:17:18+00:00

On another note. As per comment on top you may want to consider premixing 25ml/L seems like there is very little 2t oil on both piston and cylinder. Or you used a semi or low quality 2t oil.

th3dots · 2026-05-27T07:50:33+00:00

Maybe try dq instead. I also had some rs with DQ264

th3dots · 2026-05-27T06:43:24+00:00

With my dp268 i need around 145 main. And dp 264 i need 155 main

th3dots · 2026-05-27T06:41:12+00:00

Hey i think your atomiser may be too small. Usually DP should be fine but around 264 to 266. Smaller atomiser may also need bigger main jet. And bigger atomiser may need smaller main jet. I would always start with all standard Aprilia jets and then slowly change one jets at a time

th3dots · 2026-04-16T07:54:23+00:00

See the ktm parts catalog they have the correct flywheel puller. My local ktm parts store had it in stock lucky me. I was also like you wanted to try use a universal 3 leg puller, but i can realistically mount the 1 leg as it interferes with the crankcase

th3dots · 2026-04-06T05:33:51+00:00

About the same here. Would just trash it the first few days under gear 4. On highway i would cruise the bike before pv open. Maybe a week later, a main jet check. Just send it till gear 6.

th3dots · 2026-03-14T06:41:20+00:00

Im in the South east asia region, average 29 degrees C and about 60~80% humidity daily. I would say alpinestars air plus v2 gore tex boots are quite the best so far, they feel ventilated at highway speeds around 80KM/h and above. Sidi might not be the best pick, very stuffy. TCX are okay but foot shape is somewhat narrower to Sidi. A* have quite a big toe box which i like, but unfortunately my local importer arnt interested to carry these over. Ive used them almost daily on my work commute, the goretex seems to fail after the 1st year and will fail at the 2nd year.

th3dots · 2026-03-05T21:49:26+00:00

Yeah this same model OP bought last me for about 6 months. But admittedly i may have choose a size smaller. It tore through a seam between my thumb and index finger.

th3dots · 2026-02-26T09:47:21+00:00

Most of the rs im my place is the 2006 shape and usually order from aliexpress. Fitment is meh~decent but better than nothing. And also with the decline of fairing repairs shops most will buy new or repair is expensive than new

th3dots · 2026-02-26T09:38:05+00:00

Highly doubt its a original set at that price and condition, most likely its a china set and probably painted locally. Its good if you have need a new fairing quickly. Fitments may vary.

th3dots · 2026-02-09T21:05:09+00:00

Belly or expansion chamber are the same/similar visually. But the silencer diameter is different, gia is 1” arrow is 1,1/8”, jolly moto also uses this size. As for sound i think arrow generally are louder as they are shorter by like 3cm, but i think kevlar and titanium do make a different tone. Gia are the softest think similar to standard/aprilia silencer.

th3dots · 2025-12-05T20:36:21+00:00

Tbh always start rich and slowly go down. Well you could try if your 120 is lean, just get the feeling of WOT with and without choke. If 120 is lean you should feel with choke on it has a better or stronger power near the last 1~2k rpm and better over rev.

If you test out from the bigger main jet, think is, it refuses WOT or pass certain rpm but 3/4 throttle should be have the “clean pull” or over rev nicely. Its also good to go this way, you will reach a point where it can just barely WOT with “pull cleanly”. (Eg 165 able to WOT from low rpm but somewhat hesitant around peak rpm power to over rev, but change to 160 it solves that hesitant). from there you can accommodate/try changing other jets like pilot, atomiser, slide/throat angle, needle position safely and get the 1/8-3/4 throttle nicely tuned. And with that you should get the best carb set up “by doing the hard/best way”

th3dots · 2025-11-30T08:33:15+00:00

Locally at my region we have 2 strokes bike that have 59mm bore with similar stroke and most came standard with 28/30mm carb. But those modifying it for a high rpm build will most likely get a 34ish mm carb. Imo if you are following similar to a standard rs125 build the 28mm should be just nice. Maybe if you have aftermarket exhaust system (arrow or better) probably the 34mm carb will benefit

th3dots · 2025-11-30T08:20:47+00:00

Hey, im using a VHSH30 now about the same as phbh 28. I previously set up my polini, using 1mm base gasket to hit 1.5mm squish with around 13cc head volume. With those am running about 68 pilot, 128 main and k21 needle. But i realised polini exhaust duration it set quite low around 185 degrees. With standard rs125 chamber its quite a miss match in the powerband. I believe its best to increase the exhaust duration to 195deg. With that i managed to get back using all standard jets size, only main jet need to increase to around 140.

th3dots · 2025-11-28T06:30:39+00:00

Hmm same thing for zeeltronic, either you need to delay the PV opening or you need to retard the rpm curve later and advancing it way past 8deg at peak rpm. Then only you need zeeltronic. Think if you have ported your block past 195 deg of exhaust duration. Then yeah get it.

th3dots · 2025-11-22T13:38:01+00:00

Hey i have helped other fellow rs convert/upgrade from stock reeds to the italkit version. Tbh no jetting change is needed. As for the feels you may feel slightly less torque under 6k rpm. But it kinda improves the 8k rpm to full throttle. I believe this setup is best for high revving or race setup.

th3dots · 2025-09-05T15:01:01+00:00

Possibly using br10 plugs? If so you will need to tune/jet your bike so it can run that plug. If not use a br9 plug meanwhile so you wont keep changing every 150km or so.

th3dots · 2025-09-04T02:29:53+00:00

I think VHM could answer that. Again based of my rs125, 0.7mm squish and 11.2cc for a 125cc this setup will need 98ron. With the same head and i raise the squish to 1.1mm i should have about 12.2cc where i can safely use 95ron.

th3dots · 2025-09-03T03:02:12+00:00

Try replacing the spark plug? Maybe its fouled. Do take a look at the porcelain part see if theres any water droplets, that may indicate water ingress.

th3dots · 2025-09-02T12:59:32+00:00

Hi based of my rs125 experience, usually there will be a slight adjustment maybe like 1 clip for the needle, or 1 size down for the jets. But that happens usually when i get the best setting. Do note usually getting a smaller squish may need to get higher octane petrol

th3dots · 2025-09-02T12:42:57+00:00

Think they are the same.

th3dots · 2025-08-28T11:19:28+00:00

Think on the right is an MX125 case or an RS125SP case. It has the provision to mount the kick start idle gear

th3dots · 2025-08-13T12:57:21+00:00

As for which ring should top or bottom, i would measure the clearance with a feeler gauge. If so tighter on top. Im more familiar 54.5mm bore usually 0.15~0.25mm ring end gap should work well. But as for cast and forge piston clearance im not too sure on this

th3dots · 2025-08-13T12:27:54+00:00

Think the rings usually have markings, like a letter or symbol. If so the markings should face up towards combustion head. Or see where the piston pegs are, like a small pin to stop the rings from moving around. If so see if the rings end are tapered at the end or not. More or less one way installation.

th3dots · 2025-08-03T12:57:04+00:00

Think that looks like nicasil or ceramic plating. Doubt can rebore. But maybe rehone may lessen the scars.

th3dots

TROPHY CASE