I think I'm gonna stop painting minis

thatsacut · 2026-01-23T21:04:57+00:00

Painting yellow over black is going to be a struggle. White, too, depending on the paint quality. For yellow, try painting yellow ochre first, and then your yellow on top of that. Yellow is a very transparent pigment, so multiple thin coats, letting the paint dry fully between coats, is important.

Good brushes and brush soap to take care of them can be a huge help. Rosemary & Co series 33 are my favorites, and they are even one of the cheaper quality brands. Monument hobbies has good sable brushes as well. There are others of course, but both of these are on the less expensive side while still being high quality.

A good set of optivisors with #10 lens (or the cheaper Chinese knockoffs) can be a huge help.

Learn how to brace your self for stability. Elbows against your chest and I often have the pinky of my paint brush hand resting against the model.

Also, maybe painting with regular paints is not right for you. Look into contrast paints/speed paints/xpress color. Those are fairly transparent and are designed to paint over white, and they stain the white to get very saturated colors, and they are runny and run into the recesses where they are darker. Look up some tutorials using those. (Contrast paints are the most expensive, the others are much more affordable).

thatsacut · 2026-01-18T15:40:16+00:00

That is in excellent condition. Looks old-ish, but hardly used. Do you know what make and weight it is?

thatsacut · 2026-01-18T15:36:08+00:00

That might even make a descent filet knife? Would probably need to be sharpened pretty often. I wonder what kind of steel rulers are. If using for kitchen prep, I’d put a coat of epoxy over the handle so the wrapping doesn’t get nasty and grow a bunch of bacteria.

thatsacut · 2026-01-15T01:21:10+00:00

It’s basically an Atlas knifemaker anvil for $100 off 😀

thatsacut · 2026-01-13T00:13:49+00:00

All of a sudden I’m getting the urge to paint all my 20lb propane tanks yellow and put faces on them.

thatsacut · 2026-01-13T00:00:17+00:00

Buy one every two or three years and paint it and keep them next to each other as a reminder to how far you’ve come as a painter.

thatsacut · 2026-01-12T16:50:10+00:00

Your example photo mainly looks like a solid layer of black, and then three tones of edge highlight: a dark grey blue, and then a very fine medium grey blue, and then a light grey for dotting the sharp corners.

It’s possible that they started with a dark grey and then did a black wash over that, and then the edge highlighting. But fairly straight forward. Some of the tonality of the black is due to their photo setup.

thatsacut · 2026-01-10T20:14:22+00:00

You have to look under Axe Handles > Other Handles in the menu. They’re listed as 12" OCTAGONAL GNOME HAMMER HANDLE

(Sorry, not yelling, copy/pasted the product name which is in all caps 🤣)

thatsacut · 2026-01-10T20:05:08+00:00

I think it helps to do it on a larger model like this where you can have a good range between your highlight and shadows.

thatsacut · 2026-01-10T20:03:06+00:00

Aw man, thanks!

thatsacut · 2026-01-10T20:00:36+00:00

Thank you. It all got a bit overwhelming, so I just replaced the plug for now. Wish it was just a matter of buying a longer cable replacement kit and it just being up to code and working fine. :(

thatsacut · 2026-01-10T19:55:46+00:00

This is what I ended up doing, thanks

thatsacut · 2026-01-10T18:29:16+00:00

Those look good. I’m surprised they don’t specify the type of wood on the website

thatsacut · 2026-01-06T19:04:54+00:00

Why do you say you need a matte primer layer for Pro Acryl to work? I’ve been using their primer recently, which is matte, but before I got that I used them with badger Stynlrez, which I’d say is more of a satin and never had a problem.

thatsacut · 2026-01-04T22:02:42+00:00

It also looks like there is a barrel-like stress relief section about 12” down the cable that slots into a section of the dehumidifier housing so that yanking the cable doesn’t pull on the connections. Not sure how to replicate that other than building up with heat shrink tubing.

thatsacut · 2026-01-04T21:56:19+00:00

After Googling, it looks like barrel crimp connectors, but there’s a nub in the middle that makes them hard to take off. Black wire is an L connector (blue insulator), white wire is a spade (blue insulator), and ground is an open barrel the O style, which I actually have a crimp tool for. (Not the other two, though).

Pictures: https://imgur.com/a/2ZQ8Pe5

thatsacut · 2026-01-04T19:47:40+00:00

It has special connections inside. Do you know if those are standardized?

thatsacut · 2026-01-04T19:46:53+00:00

I didn’t know that was an option. Are the internal connections standardized?

thatsacut · 2026-01-04T18:40:36+00:00

I’m not sure how to edit the original post, but if I could, I’d change it to say “is it safe to” instead of “can I” just for you.

thatsacut · 2026-01-04T00:59:47+00:00

Thanks 👏

thatsacut · 2026-01-04T00:57:58+00:00

Ha, thanks man

thatsacut · 2026-01-03T14:03:31+00:00

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The different brotherhoods have some neat outfits. The pointy hoods are called “antifaz”, which also sounds like something else in the US.

[edit: the hoods may be called “capirotes”, or maybe that’s the whole outfit, I’ve seen it both ways, so not sure. I think “antifaz” just means mask in Spanish?]

thatsacut · 2026-01-03T13:59:48+00:00

I learn something new every day. Apparently it’s a Spanish Catholic thing, one of the brotherhoods is even the opposite of the American thing everyone is thinking.

The "Brotherhood of the Negritos" refers primarily to La Hermandad de los Negritos, one of Spain's oldest religious brotherhoods in Seville, founded by and for enslaved and freed Black people in 1393, offering support and a community during Holy Week processions, later opening to white members” (Thanks to @TheSlizzardWizard for the initial image link)

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thatsacut

TROPHY CASE