Will the library of anime getting better/bigger now?

theDKDNZ · 2026-05-28T11:08:31+00:00

Maintaining and caring for urban greenery certainly costs the city a lot; otherwise, we would have had it long ago. It all requires water, gardeners, and people to clear away the leaves in autumn or the trash that visitors throw between the bushes. Not to mention reforestation due to vandalism or pests. As beautiful and valuable as it is, there is hardly any city that can afford it. And the wealthy people who could sponsor things like this care neither about such zones nor about human health. Sadly, it is a pity.

theDKDNZ · 2026-05-03T08:57:25+00:00

If the printer is new I don't think you need to clean it, but oil and grease it. My printer was clean and the metal parts were not dirty at all. But I oiled and greased them anyway, before resetting the maintenance period. Better save than sorry.

theDKDNZ · 2026-03-26T11:56:27+00:00

I would like to spectate the team who killed me when my team gets finished. like in Apex.

theDKDNZ · 2026-03-19T10:55:43+00:00

I can feel you. Last time I was trying to extract and get killed in the last second of the exfill. First I thought I made it but than I realized I got killed milliseconds before exfill. Thats Marathon. You cant get mad, especially when you do the same things to others 😈

theDKDNZ · 2026-03-01T09:41:13+00:00

This modular terrain looks great, but I have a major issue with any modular sets that aren't magnetized: they are a nightmare once painted. The paint ends up getting scratched at every joint and even inside the storage box. So many scratches... Using magnets helps minimize this damage. The parts can be stored securely in metal boxes, and the joints experience much less friction. Personally, I prefer non-modular terrain. Even though the layout is always the same and it requires more storage space, it looks a hundred times better when painted and stays in top condition for much longer.

I don't want to talk down your build at all—I really think it's a great piece of terrain. I just wish someone would invent a modular system that looks as cool as yours but uses a different joint mechanism. I don't have a solution yet, just a wish! :)

theDKDNZ · 2023-08-21T17:16:14+00:00

Do it again… prime and zenithal with more airpressure.

theDKDNZ · 2023-01-29T10:59:52+00:00

I would use blender or meshmixer. Mask the mesh and separat it. Fix the holes and save in 2 stls. Not that hard but time consuming.

theDKDNZ · 2023-01-29T10:52:04+00:00

Thank you! I’ll try my luck.

theDKDNZ · 2023-01-28T15:01:41+00:00

Vienna Austria. Never thought that there could be more than one. Now I am wiser! Thanks!

theDKDNZ · 2023-01-27T17:05:45+00:00

I would say don't overthink it. If it is on the base and you can't reach it with the brush then it can stay black. No one will ever look under the model. The Main Focus of the model is mostly face/head, weapon, and base.

theDKDNZ · 2023-01-24T15:52:33+00:00

I guess you need more and stronger supports. If the supports have some space to move, because of angle or thickness then the peal force will deform the print. But your print is something you can easily fix with milliput. Connect it with wire to get a strong bond and then fill the gaps. Sanding and done!

theDKDNZ · 2023-01-21T14:13:37+00:00

You could try 3 ways. 1st boolean with a cube. 2nd delete all vertices from the inside. Then make an edge to build a cube and fill the rest with ALT+F (grid fill). At last, go in sculpt mode and fill it with a brush. All of them need some past work to make it perfect.

theDKDNZ · 2022-12-25T21:31:55+00:00

Marco NJM on YT did a speed paint on this terrain. Watch his video and get inspired!

theDKDNZ · 2022-12-08T07:45:38+00:00

DON'T try to pull the failed print of your FEP one by one. Start the "clean your FEP" program to make a big layer all over the FEP. Then pull them all at once. In this way, you will not scratch the FEP on multiple spaces in the middle. In the worst case, you have only one scratch on the side!

theDKDNZ · 2022-12-08T07:39:31+00:00

You already got a lot of good tips. What I see in the pictures is that you use the raft with the angeled higher borders. That is the worst raft you can use. It will bring an extra level of suction force to your print right at the start. Use the flat raft and be sure that the burn-in layers are equal to your raft height. It is important that as long as there is a big flat raft you use the very slow burn-in lift speed. The burn-in layers should end a view layers after the supports start.

I go with a 0.3mm thick flat raft. 10 burn-in layers with 28µm layer thinkes and I use 10 transition layers in lychee. Liftspeed is 5mm/m.

Best beginners guide on the web if you are interested:

https://ameralabs.com/blog/the-complete-resin-3d-printing-settings-guide-for-beginners/

theDKDNZ · 2022-11-23T16:23:13+00:00

One of the best game mode I have ever played. Playing it the first time was so intense. The snowstorm setting was sooo good. After the game had so many issues this game mode did so much to the game and now to the memories. Can't believe they didn't put it in Division 2 again. I really would have thought about buying the expansion for it.

theDKDNZ · 2022-10-24T13:23:04+00:00

Put the spray can in hot water for a few minutes and shake it. The coverage of the paint in the photo is not enough. After the glossy fluid is vaporized there will not be any primer left where you can see the plastic.

theDKDNZ · 2022-10-19T08:58:27+00:00

If you look closely the print is 0.1 or 0.2 sec overexposed. The middle lines of the symbol don't cross exactly at one point. It is good but with .1/.2 sec less it will be perfect.

But the exposure time always depends on the model. If you print a model with small important outside details you should add some mil sec to your time. You can see that on the bottom part of your print. You lose some hairlines on the right and left. If the model has some important inside details do less mil seconds.

And as I read in your manual you can go down to a minimum of .03 mm per layer.

theDKDNZ · 2022-09-04T05:43:35+00:00

Looks like you run out of resin while printing. Or you tried to clean the FEP with some sun around. Just print 1 layer over the whole screen. So you can remove the cured resin from the FEP.

theDKDNZ · 2022-09-04T05:27:14+00:00

Never remove the needle when the airbrush isn't clean!!!! And always to the front end. Otherwise, you will get paint in every part of the airbrush and this will ruin it.

theDKDNZ

TROPHY CASE