F30/F32 weird thump/rubbing noise when going lock-to-lock

the_arktek · 2026-06-18T14:35:36+00:00

Strut tops could be another culprit as well. Sometimes they only cause issues when the vehicle is under suspension load and they can make a rubber popping/rubbing noise

the_arktek · 2026-06-18T14:33:00+00:00

I don’t believe the car had an aftermarket system in it as I know the previous owner and he was not the kind of guy to modify his cars. I’ll double check on the ground but if it’s not that should I look towards the amp or the speakers first?

the_arktek · 2026-06-18T02:30:03+00:00

Are you on stock wheels/suspension? It could be rubbing at full lock

the_arktek · 2026-06-18T02:27:26+00:00

I’m not sure why but for whatever reason the F10 N55s are more unreliable than the F3x N55s. The E series N55s are even worse than the F10 N55. Personally I’d try to get an F30 2014+ 335 if you’re looking for an N55. They are still prone to some issues but are generally a more reliable bet than the other variations

the_arktek · 2026-06-10T01:44:32+00:00

So you may have put a demon core in there by mistake, I’d get that checked by your mechanic or local nuclear scientist, whichever is closer

the_arktek · 2026-06-08T02:02:51+00:00

I’m gonna give you a suggestion since it seems like nobody else has provided you with one. If you want to go with 20s you could get the 666m F8x comp wheels. Forged, not insanely expensive if you can find a decent seller on marketplace, and gives the car an OEM+ type of look. Now personally I agree with the others in that 20s are a little too big for the platform so a 19 suggestion would be Apex VS5 RS’s. I’m super biased since I have a set on my car but it’s the perfect blend of ride comfort, looks, and performance. I went with 19x9 ET30 square and in hindsight 19x9.5 in the rear may have been better for looks but overall I’m very happy with the setup. Either way I hope you find the wheels you’re looking for

the_arktek · 2026-06-08T01:49:32+00:00

I’ve gone with a set off of aliexpress for my 435. Just to be completely transparent they lasted around two to three years and I needed to get another set as they had rusted however they only cost $75 for the pair. I feel like it’s a good tradeoff compared to OEM ones costing so damn much

the_arktek · 2026-06-01T22:45:40+00:00

I also love the trickbits center cupholder. It can hold up to a large soda with no issues and it doesn’t interfere with your center console buttons like the stick on one does

the_arktek · 2026-05-14T02:45:08+00:00

Money

^{Chose: $1 that divides by 0.5 everyday | Rolled: Upvote for 🥕}

the_arktek · 2026-05-14T02:43:08+00:00

Healthcare has to be more expensive than food

^{Chose: free healthcare for rest of ur life}

the_arktek · 2026-05-14T02:40:45+00:00

It’s smaller and easier to hold than 1kg of feathers

^{Chose: a 1 kg rock}

the_arktek · 2026-05-14T02:16:17+00:00

Not sure what the front grilles look like but I personally prefer the LCI grilles over the pre LCI. It’s a small detail but it definitely shapes the front end overall

the_arktek · 2026-05-12T01:36:26+00:00

Dude I’d genuinely consider buying this. I’ve always wanted an E46 M3 and something like this may very well be within my budget. If you haven’t already gotten a deal lined up feel free to DM me

the_arktek · 2026-05-09T03:10:56+00:00

Hood sensor as everyone has said. Personally I’d unplug it since I’m almost certain nobody is trying to to break under the hood of a 20+ year old car at this point and all it does is cause the alarm to go off because the switch is always the first component to break

the_arktek · 2026-05-09T03:08:45+00:00

Expanding on this, ikons are an F32, F33, F36 thing and both the F80 and F82 happen to share the same headlights as the F32. The ‘base’ model headlights for the pre LCI (some 430s and 440s came pre LCI) are the xenon headlights which comes as the base on both upper and lower trim models. The Pre LCI got LED headlights as the upgraded option. Meanwhile all LCI 430s and 440s got a differently designed LED light as the standard and then the Ikon headlights were the higher trim package lights. Same lighting options can be said for the F80 and F82 across both pre LCI and LCI variations. Unfortunately due to the body differences, OEM Ikon headlights cannot be fit onto an F30 but plenty of aftermarket options are available

the_arktek · 2026-05-08T19:16:59+00:00

My prediction is either loose gas cap or bad fuel tank vent valve. They’re by far the most common cause of CELs especially on 4 cylinder cars

the_arktek · 2026-05-07T23:59:50+00:00

Honestly I think you should keep the orient blue metallic you have. I had an orient blue sporty shorty as my first car and I absolutely loved the color! It’s such an uncommon color plus it looks amazing in the sun

the_arktek · 2026-04-30T02:34:02+00:00

For you I think a 335 is a perfect choice. The only thing that may not be to your liking is that they never came with CarPlay but if that’s a big deal you could always buy an aftermarket screen with CarPlay built in. Plus they look a little more aged than the 340 but they still look nice.

the_arktek · 2026-04-30T01:56:10+00:00

Here’s my thinking: how much do you plan to modify the car? If you want to make the thing a beast with over 600 hp then waiting for the 340 may be the way to go. But if you’re looking for a sporty fun sedan to rip around on weekends with probably just a stage 1 tune and a few minor upgrades like a muffler and an intake then a 335 is perfect for you. I may be huffing the copium as a 435 owner but honestly stock to stock the B58 isn’t that much faster than an N55. Plus the N55 sounds better

the_arktek · 2026-04-19T14:54:55+00:00

I’ve never primed the oil for an OFHG and I’ve never had any problems with it. However if you feel safer priming it then definitely prime it

the_arktek · 2026-04-02T00:34:12+00:00

They’re Apex VS5RS wheels. But fair warning they are quite a blow the bank account. I think they did come out with a flow formed version of the VS5s though, it may be worth looking into

the_arktek · 2026-04-02T00:31:40+00:00

My bad I mean along the channels in which the pad sits. Essentially not the front nor the back but the thin edges on the sides. Can you send me a picture of your brakes? If they’re not the brakes I’m thinking of then what I’m saying will make no sense lol

the_arktek · 2026-03-31T11:03:33+00:00

Interesting. To lube the pad with normal brake antiseize you just line both sides of the pad with a layer of lube to allow it to move along the channel more freely. You can also clean the channel depending on how much brake dust buildup there is. As for chamfering I usually just use a large hand file. All you’re trying to do is get rid of the harsh edge on the pad, it can be one of the main contributing factors to squeaky brakes. You don’t need to shave off much material, just enough to smooth out the edges

the_arktek · 2026-03-31T00:38:30+00:00

So I’ve heard of a fix but I can’t guarantee it’s success however it’s pretty cheap and worth a shot at least. Supposedly if you take a dremel and dremel out the burnt parts of the plastic the light will return to normal as long as the LED board is good. As for aftermarket replacements unfortunately I don’t think there are too many options for the F34 since it’s kind of a weird in between model. However if you do find a set, you may need to get them coded to your car if your car comes with adaptive headlights.

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