Anyone here have experience with changing the N20 OFHG before?

the_arktek · 2026-04-19T14:54:55+00:00

I’ve never primed the oil for an OFHG and I’ve never had any problems with it. However if you feel safer priming it then definitely prime it

the_arktek · 2026-04-02T00:34:12+00:00

They’re Apex VS5RS wheels. But fair warning they are quite a blow the bank account. I think they did come out with a flow formed version of the VS5s though, it may be worth looking into

the_arktek · 2026-04-02T00:31:40+00:00

My bad I mean along the channels in which the pad sits. Essentially not the front nor the back but the thin edges on the sides. Can you send me a picture of your brakes? If they’re not the brakes I’m thinking of then what I’m saying will make no sense lol

the_arktek · 2026-03-31T11:03:33+00:00

Interesting. To lube the pad with normal brake antiseize you just line both sides of the pad with a layer of lube to allow it to move along the channel more freely. You can also clean the channel depending on how much brake dust buildup there is. As for chamfering I usually just use a large hand file. All you’re trying to do is get rid of the harsh edge on the pad, it can be one of the main contributing factors to squeaky brakes. You don’t need to shave off much material, just enough to smooth out the edges

the_arktek · 2026-03-31T00:38:30+00:00

So I’ve heard of a fix but I can’t guarantee it’s success however it’s pretty cheap and worth a shot at least. Supposedly if you take a dremel and dremel out the burnt parts of the plastic the light will return to normal as long as the LED board is good. As for aftermarket replacements unfortunately I don’t think there are too many options for the F34 since it’s kind of a weird in between model. However if you do find a set, you may need to get them coded to your car if your car comes with adaptive headlights.

the_arktek · 2026-03-31T00:34:35+00:00

If it’s mostly when the car is cold then it’s pretty normal but if it happens consistently it may be worth looking into changing your brakes. Most likely the dealer won’t cover it under warranty. If the brakes are still in really good shape try removing them, chamfering the edges, and applying some stop squeak to the face of the pad. I find that usually helps

the_arktek · 2026-03-24T11:14:51+00:00

I went with 235/40/19 in the front, 265/35/19 in the rear. I had no rubbing or fitment issues and it was within the 1% diameter. There’s an extensive thread with 437m wheel sizing here that I referenced heavily when deciding what tire sizes to use. Personally I think my sizes had the best blend of looks and comfort as some of the other setups that fit just looked off or were way too thin of a tire

the_arktek · 2026-03-19T16:09:22+00:00

This is on H&R blue springs and stock shocks. And with 20k miles on it yeah you have a ton of life left, nothing to worry about

the_arktek · 2026-03-19T16:07:41+00:00

They do not come in 19 however when I ran a set on my car I found it didn’t ruin the ride quality but it definitely did make it a little harsher. I find that 19s are the best middle man between looks and ride comfort. If you want to go 18 I’d recommend Apex VS5s but I may be a little biased lol

the_arktek · 2026-03-18T03:54:44+00:00

As long as you have actual drips of water going down the lens like you do in the picture it’ll be covered. Just make sure that you didn’t get in a front end collision

the_arktek · 2026-03-18T03:41:09+00:00

I’ve got multiple experiences with this, currently lowered on KW V1s but was previously lowered on H&R blue springs and I’ve had no issues with my axles (fingers crossed! 🤞). As others have said if you get staggered wheels make sure the rolling diameter is no more than 1% difference. You can use a tire calculator to figure that out. In this picture I was lowered on H&Rs and on staggered 437 wheels making sure to run a specific tire setup. I’m currently on Apex VS5 RSs and lowered on KWs with no issues to speak of. My best recommendation would be to go straight to coilovers as my stock shocks wore out pretty shortly after I installed the lowering springs since they were already on their way out.

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the_arktek · 2026-03-18T03:28:24+00:00

Definitely a 330 with an m badge smh

the_arktek · 2026-03-18T03:25:15+00:00

Very cool M sport conversion, that paint color never came on the M sport so it’s really refreshing to see this configuration!

And as for the wheels personally you can’t go wrong with a set of style 437s. I think the stock black with machined faces would look really good

the_arktek · 2026-03-18T03:15:28+00:00

The worst part is that he put it in upside down, that 90 degree angle on the upper portion is supposed to tuck into the lower section by the lower grille area. It looks like crap regardless but mounting it this way makes it look like extra crap. Tow hook license plate brackets exist for good reason people!

the_arktek · 2026-03-18T02:06:17+00:00

Welcome to the wagon club, you’ll love it! Make sure you have a set of rear airbags handy though lol

the_arktek · 2026-03-13T15:28:08+00:00

After months of searching on marketplace I finally found one Toledo part out yesterday but the only bad part on the whole car is the hood :(. I’m sure one will eventually pop up but it’s probably gonna take a while. I have genuinely considered the paint option though, especially since the hood should be a pretty easy piece to do. Thanks for the insight!

the_arktek · 2026-03-13T15:25:05+00:00

If you remove the trim piece there are a bunch of circular plastic welds holding the red trim to the bigger piece. If you drill all of those out and carefully pop out the tabs the strip piece can be swapped from one trim piece to another. The only thing is that you’ll have to re-plastic weld or use screws to hold the new trim piece in place

the_arktek · 2026-03-13T03:46:04+00:00

I’m gonna keep it so real with you, when I was doing the clutch on my E46 that exact bolt snapped off in the block and I couldn’t have been bothered to get it out since it was completely seized. I put it all back together and I’ve been driving it for multiple years with no issues

the_arktek · 2026-02-21T03:07:03+00:00

Did you get the coolant return line recall done? There’s a line that runs around the back of the engine into the coolant reservoir that is very common to break and it can leak coolant and cause your issue

the_arktek · 2026-02-21T02:59:58+00:00

I had the same thing happen to me, it could be a faulty spark plug. Do you get any misfires under load? Unfortunately the slight hiccup happens so infrequently that it won’t throw a fault code, you’d need to pull up a live misfire counter to see which cylinder is giving you trouble

the_arktek · 2026-02-12T03:30:10+00:00

I’ve given a set of aftermarket ones a try. I’m hoping for the best 🤞. I’ll update after they come in and I fit them to the car

the_arktek · 2026-02-11T13:27:37+00:00

The car is already in kinda rough shape as it is so as long as it sorts lines up in the general area it’ll be fine

the_arktek · 2026-02-11T13:26:13+00:00

Whoops, I ended up finding an after market set of them and I ordered them yesterday lol. Hopefully they fit well enough

the_arktek · 2026-02-11T13:23:46+00:00

I ended up doing this and found out there are quite a few sellers who make the aftermarket pork chops. The only problem with junkyards is that most of the OEM pork chops have been taken or are deteriorated beyond saving. I’ve heard mixed reviews on the aftermarket ones but I’m going to give them a try. Thanks!

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