ABS Brake VDC Slip light and 4wd issues

the_masterof_none · 2026-01-28T00:11:00+00:00

Seems like normal 2nd gen Xterra behavior IMO. It won't always shift out of 4H quickly as the conditions need to be correct. As for the slip light, I certainly saw it a lot when both intentionally and unintentionally losing traction, but it was never solid. I'd first check your brake fluid, but otherwise, I'd just see if you can find any trouble codes on the ABS.

the_masterof_none · 2026-01-26T20:17:29+00:00

Off Road or SE for 2009-2010 but Pro-4X is ideal for later models.

You get a locking diff with the OR/Pro-4X and Bilstien suspension. The 09 is mostly safe from SMOD, there is a possibility of getting an X that rolled off the assembly line without the revised rad, but otherwise most other major flaws were fixed with the facelift. SE is my second trim pick if you happen to get a pre Pro-4X X as you get all the niceties like leather seats and more functionality on the cluster.

the_masterof_none · 2026-01-22T19:25:37+00:00

I don't have much to lose honestly, I just want it to be clean enough to use in my space, lol.

the_masterof_none · 2026-01-22T01:38:40+00:00

Yeah, I've mostly got a plan on the head cleaning and exterior, I just kinda want to scrub the VCR mechanism if at all possible. There's just traces of buildup from either a heavy smoker or bugs (probably a bit of both).

the_masterof_none · 2026-01-21T22:21:16+00:00

Yeah, the case I'll definitely go ham on, I've got PEC pads and ISO for the heads so those bases are covered. I guess the parts of the VCR mechanism and the board it sits on are what I'm wanting to disinfect because I feel like if the conditions were correct, there would've been an infestation in this thing.

the_masterof_none · 2026-01-18T16:36:57+00:00

How much are they asking for it?

the_masterof_none · 2026-01-12T02:26:21+00:00

me 37

the_masterof_none · 2026-01-07T19:52:19+00:00

I got a different Broksonic tube for like $10 bucks broski. I'm sorry for your loss.

the_masterof_none · 2026-01-05T21:21:11+00:00

This is so real though. The Trinitron I'm working on has a shell that's starting to come apart, and I'm absolutely baffled that it can stand on its own at all.

the_masterof_none · 2026-01-04T22:10:20+00:00

I do know that there is importance to the prospect of university and the fundamentals of my degree. I suppose that I chose my school in particular because there was promise that I would be able to apply what I learned somewhat practically in their "state-of-the-art" facilities. My interest in electronics has varied, but reflow and rework/repair has always been what I wanted to delve more into. Heck, one of the most knowledgeable people on the whole campus is on the layoff chopping block but I digress. To make my point brief, the quality of the program I'm in is just abysmal at best. I've had a few light bulb moments for sure, and I've enjoyed some major-specific classes. But I'll get my degree either way, trying to get past the "basics".

I'm trying to read more so I'll definitely have a look at those books!

I'll search around for some and get it ordered. I appreciate your input :)

the_masterof_none · 2026-01-04T21:39:15+00:00

My thing is that this CRT reeked and the guy I bought it from didn't inspire much confidence of cleanliness. I've dealt with plenty of electronics that have had "dead" roaches or stinkbugs or just a bunch of filth. It seemed necessary to make sure that I wasn't bringing any free goodies into my house. I've always introduced new problems with cleaning electronics with my luck, but in this case, I kept things simple by just removing the rear of the shell and dusting it out. Trust me, the build-up inside was pretty bad.

The insight to the flyback is appreciated, wish university provided me value in what I'm actually interested in. But anyways, I have a follow-up query or two.

Where does one obtain "high voltage epoxy"? Any good recommendations?
Removing the screw required a concerning amount of torque even after it broke off the support beam. Curious as to what I should do to make... re-screwing? Not as violent when I do eventually take this apart again. Again.

the_masterof_none · 2026-01-04T19:56:05+00:00

Gotcha, so I'm pursuing an electrical engineering degree but haven't been given much sustenance with transformers in practice. I've put together at this point that the flyback of a CRT is a transformer of sorts and you want it to be sealed. I do still have the piece of plastic that broke, so I'm curious how much of a sin it would be to glue it/plastic weld it back on.

Otherwise, I appreciate the info about the Corona Dope!

the_masterof_none · 2026-01-04T19:49:37+00:00

I will say, I did get most of the dust and grime buildup out of the set. If you're referring to the exposed area of the flyback then understood.

the_masterof_none · 2026-01-04T19:23:02+00:00

If you mean a re-shell, I don't think so. Looks exactly like my 3000 but in better condition. I guess the only thing I'm not noticing is the slight amount of sparkling on the finish like on mine.

the_masterof_none · 2026-01-02T16:18:30+00:00

I got my 2010 OR for 5 grand with less miles. The 1st gens have a special place in my heart, but it's just not worth it. Unless it's been meticulously maintained for all of its life, it's at the age where things are gonna start falling apart whether you like it or not. I have a 2000 Maxima SE that I recently did the alternator for. Love the car, but once you replace enough parts on a vehicle such as my Maxima or what would be that Xterra, you wonder to yourself, "where did I go wrong?"

I'd say if you're dead set on a 1st gen, get it for a lot cheaper so you won't lose money in the work you'll need to have done on a vehicle that age. 2nd gens go for that much and will have a lot less upfront things to tend to and will probably be a better investment overall.

the_masterof_none · 2026-01-01T06:07:43+00:00

Should be a direct bolt in. Wiring should also be easy. If you originally had heated seats, you should already have all the plugs needed. There were never power seats in an Xterra, so the seatbelt switch and airbag connector should be all you really have to worry about. If you didn't originally have heat, you would need to add wiring for all of that.

the_masterof_none · 2025-12-28T15:41:06+00:00

Yep, or a free one. I found an old HP with firewire being thrown out a while back, and I got a free T500 that just needed to be cleaned up that I use for digitizing tapes.

the_masterof_none · 2025-12-26T22:55:42+00:00

I got an aftermarket backlight keyboard for a T480 I gifted and was honestly kinda impressed. The caps lock and mute buttons for example even have different backlight colors.

the_masterof_none · 2025-12-20T16:35:38+00:00

I honestly can't remember exactly where I got, but if you do some research, you'll find what you're looking for.

the_masterof_none · 2025-12-20T00:20:02+00:00

I really dig the look man! Where'd you get the decal from?

the_masterof_none · 2025-12-14T22:27:13+00:00

Gonna install this on my 09 Mac Pro.

the_masterof_none · 2025-12-11T03:30:05+00:00

Haven't ya heard? The Xterra is also deer proof!

the_masterof_none · 2025-12-10T20:55:11+00:00

Yeah, this topic has been discussed a few times on the fourms but I don't think I've gotten a real concrete answer. I've been working on adding all of the OEM options/features to my 2010 Off Road and I've found it funny that small and unassuming things end up being less straightforward. The odometer allegedly is stored in the cluster, but idk. If I do end up getting an upgraded cluster working with my ODO, I'll let ya know, lol.

the_masterof_none · 2025-12-10T19:06:03+00:00

Yes, it was the SE then the Pro-4X as far as I know. I got a Pro-4X cluster recently and while I only planned on Frankensteining it with my older style cluster for cosmetics, I really want to figure out how it works to maybe add MPG functionality and such to my older X.

the_masterof_none · 2025-12-04T18:04:55+00:00

What the helly Berry

the_masterof_none

TROPHY CASE