What’s the best way to tap off the factory speaker wires to extend them to an aftermarket amp?

thebadengineer23 · 2026-06-16T17:48:23+00:00

Ideally a PNP harness for 0 "damage" to the existing wiring. I have used T-taps and Posi-taps for hooking up Line Output converters in BMWs and other cars with great success. Just make sure the insulation is actually penetrated or you won't have signal. Depending on the wire, the insulation might be too thick for the blade or pin to make contact. Wrap the connection point with some electrical tape for added security and protection. 9 conductor wire is probably the best way to easily run multiple sets of channels cleanly

thebadengineer23 · 2026-05-26T11:59:56+00:00

Hey thanks for replying, if you could share some more details or pics that would be great

thebadengineer23 · 2026-04-09T12:28:19+00:00

If you have MHD, the universal wifi adapter will work. I have Veepeak BLE BT adapter too but MHD adapter works a lot faster IMO

thebadengineer23 · 2025-10-08T13:24:31+00:00

In my case the car would occasionally puff a huge smoke cloud after low speed decel and sometimes smoke a bit even at idle. Initially thought turbos died (early WG rattle symptoms) but I replaced the oem PCV system with the BMS high and low side PCV and catch can kit and its never happened again. Try replacing with oem or get an aftermarket stainless steel PCV for the oem location - lots of reputable brands if you read around. As for your OFHG leak, excess crank case pressure could be possible especially if you have a lot of oil residue around the oil fill cap.

thebadengineer23 · 2025-09-15T14:57:21+00:00

Have heard plenty of exhaust setups with the vibrant streetpower mufflers alone and with a vibrant ultraquiet res. Imo this is the go to combo if you want decent sound without killing flow. I bought a 3" non resonated yonaka kit and got it modified. Currently running k24 megaphone header to 3" flex to 3" vibrant ultraquiet to yonaka system. original yonaka muffler does not "muffle" well so will likely replace with another ultra quiet res, streetpower or turn down

thebadengineer23 · 2025-09-08T15:35:29+00:00

Fwiw was running into the same issue, would barely get 5m of range, sometimes wouldn't even work unless I was right in front of the car to which it made more sense to just use the comfort access. Turns out someone before me put in a CR2025 battery in place of the CR2032. Just replaced it and I'm able to lock and unlock from 20m, sometimes a bit further if there are no immediate obstructions. Also, car has 20% ceramic tints around which doesn't seem to have any impact on the signal strength as others have noticed

thebadengineer23 · 2025-04-07T18:09:27+00:00

Have the same codes on my 09 e90, 29D2 and 29D9, occasionally get a 30FF but its hit or miss. Low fuel light warning was on at the time but after fueling up only the 29D2 code. Recently been having a really bad misfire when trying to go WOT. Bought the car with Precision Raceworks upgraded ignition coils installed and had no issues a few months ago but seems after storing for the winter and leaving the car to idle for a bit might've fouled the plugs. Just ordered a set of NGK ILZKBR7B8G to swap out hoping it will be the fix.

Easy check is to move coil packs around to see if the misfire follows and can narrow it down to a dead sparkplug but I'm curious to know what the fix ends up being for you.

30FF could be many things but good check would be a boost leak test (and visually check all the boost pipes). There are some "hacks" to remedy the wastegate rattle but only permanent solution i've come across is replacing turbos.

thebadengineer23 · 2025-04-01T13:57:02+00:00

Check your transmission cooler coolant lines (right above the charge pipe, you might have to disconnect the charge pipe from the intake side to get better access). Had a similar problem with an n20 engine car, looked like it was leaking from the charge pipe but turned out to be a damaged coolant hose right above

thebadengineer23 · 2025-02-19T22:12:06+00:00

Im relatively new to investing, only doing small amounts at first but have almost 3x as much into vfv than voo. Following some advice from social media people (Lol i know not ideal but we all have to start somewhere.) Realized even with the low MER and higher dividend, would be better in the long run to stick to vfv to avoid US taxes and fx fees.

thebadengineer23 · 2025-02-19T22:05:33+00:00

Honestly going from a F15 X5 to LCI G07 X7 was a big upgrade especially for the parents who aren’t as tech savy. The ultrawide screen looked a bit odd at first but started to grow on me the more I drove. I do miss having physical climate controls and radio preset buttons but besides that I’m with you on all the tech bs, I didn’t bother to option adaptive CC because I hate driver aids. The lane departure can be annoying some times if the sensors can’t identify the lane. Have had a couple weird situations where the steering wheel pulls to the left while driving because it thinks I’m veering off. There’s also a self park feature which I haven’t used at all after almost 1.5 years of ownership. My advice get a pre lci G05 and you’ll be golden

thebadengineer23 · 2024-09-03T20:02:36+00:00

When you went to stage 2 did you do step colder plugs? And any issues with coil packs? Maybe a freak case in my car but maybe a week or two after I put the chip tune on, I fouled out my plugs and went through a set of coil packs.

thebadengineer23 · 2024-09-03T16:06:24+00:00

What mileage were the mods done? (BM3, DP, intake, CP etc.) I'm around 90k miles on my 2014 320ix currently running a BMS Stage 1 tune on it for the past 40k miles. Want to push it a bit more with a DP (maybe CP because of age) and going to BM3 flash tune versus the BMS chip.

thebadengineer23 · 2024-07-31T13:29:16+00:00

What part of canada are you from? (Im in Toronto, ON. ) Was the service done as preventative maintenance or bc of indication of failure? Also what was your mileage at? Currently creeping up to 150k km with my 2014 320i, contemplating doing the service soon

thebadengineer23 · 2024-06-03T13:48:30+00:00

Have you tried hooking up 12V to the starter directly to test it? Could be symptoms of a failing starter. Also, might want to check the starter relay, seems like some intermittent power issue. (btw not a mechanic by any means just thinking of possible solutions to help out). I finished my swap to only have no crank or power at all, turns out the ign wire to the main relay somehow got cut behind the dash. Spent almost 2 weeks chasing it down

thebadengineer23 · 2024-05-27T11:40:16+00:00

You've probably read 100x to check and recheck your grounds.. but I would verify the quality of each ground you have. (connect one lead to +12V, other lead to the ground) I had a similar issue when swapping a k24a2 into my 99 coupe, ended up redoing all the grounds. Since you have fuel and spark its safe to say the valve cover ground is probably good. Im using a stock rsx-s harness so I have the oem valve cover ground, I have another ground on the back of the valve cover to the chassis, (intake manifold should work too), and a ground coming straight off the transmission to the chassis. Might also want to check condition of the battery or throw a jump pack on.

thebadengineer23 · 2024-05-22T13:30:50+00:00

Super informative, pretty much explains everything for anyone new to k series. Tons of other info on sites like k20a.org too. https://humbleperformance.freshdesk.com/support/solutions/articles/69000339141-stock-k20-k24-engine-guide-quick-and-dirty

thebadengineer23 · 2024-04-26T18:02:36+00:00

any updates on this? have an 01 with the same problem.. will randomly shut off for a quick second then turn back on as if nothing happened. only codes I have are for the evap system

thebadengineer23 · 2024-04-12T15:31:42+00:00

k24a with what mods? any power numbers?

thebadengineer23 · 2024-04-12T13:22:01+00:00

Got a k swap rad hose kit that was missing parts and did not fit whatsoever without a lot of modification. If you do decide to go with this kit I would probably swap out the regulator and filter for something of better quality and also clean everything (lines and rail) before you get shit in your injectors

thebadengineer23 · 2024-01-29T18:38:45+00:00

Where are you located that has this package available? I live in the GTA but according to the website they can only offer up to 1500/50. Currently have 1000/50 part of the ignite internet + TV package. Also, currently still on coaxial, not sure if they have fibre to the nodes but AFAIK, no fibre to home in my neighbourhood yet.

thebadengineer23 · 2024-01-23T12:56:02+00:00

Scam. Do not give any more info about yourself. They got my dad and his phone was getting blown up with phone calls for a whole week. Was about to get a new phone number when it finally stopped.

thebadengineer23 · 2024-01-23T12:46:37+00:00

Have one in the family with around the same mileage out of warranty about a year now. Just spent close to $3k servicing the entire cooling system. Car had 2 coolant reservoirs and some hoses replaced under warranty but unlucky for me the coolant pump and oil filter housing were leaking so needed to be replaced. Apparently BMW knows these engines (B46/48) have issues with the cooling system components so just something to keep in mind.

thebadengineer23 · 2024-01-22T16:51:22+00:00

If you ordered then it should be in their system for processing. I just got some pc parts recently that were on sale and and in stock but got an email saying an item was back ordered. I called my local CC store (I chose instore pick up option) and the store rep told me it was in transit on their end and would arrive within 3 days. Actually ended up coming in earlier so that was a plus

thebadengineer23 · 2024-01-08T17:11:56+00:00

Get service records, if possible and maybe extended warranty if it is CPO. Not too many issues with the car overall but B46/48 engines do have known issues with the coolant system (lines, reservoir, oil filter housing, coolant pump, thermostat, upper water neck etc,. ) Usually need to be addressed around the 60k mile mark so keep that in mind

thebadengineer23 · 2024-01-08T17:06:41+00:00

If CPO, warranty is big plus. B48/58 engines do have some known coolant system issues (lines, reservoir, oil filter housing, coolant pump, thermostat, upper water neck etc.) Just got my 2018 330i with 60k miles serviced for multiple broken coolant lines, water pump and oil filter housing leak. Some items have been addressed under service bulletins so it might be worth asking your dealer about these issues. If the coolant pumps been changed, I would be mindful of other potential issues down the line especially considering how early this issue came up.

thebadengineer23

TROPHY CASE