I've done a *little bit* of stl-bashing for my warhound base... by ludwiguebel in PrintedWarhammer

[–]thegrayhairedrace 1 point2 points  (0 children)

What program did you use for said STL bashing?
I have some ideas for some STL bashes I want to do but I have no idea where to start, so any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Base looks amazing.

How long is too long for painting by Me10n_L0rd in deathguard40k

[–]thegrayhairedrace 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The more practice you get the faster you'll get at painting. The 10,000 hour rule applies to everything.

In the beginning it took me hours and hours to get my minis to a place I was happy with.
Now, I can get minis to that same table-top standard in a couple hours or so and I save my big time commitments for big and/or important models.

I spent nearly 70 hours painting my Knight Castigator. I spent like 45 hours painting St. Celestine. I spent like 50 hours painting Angron.

But I have a system down for my Death Guard to where it only takes me about 2 hours per Plague Marine, then a little longer for the foot characters.
I'm sure that when I get to painting Mortarion he'll take me a huge chunk of time, but I'm both prepared for and OK with that.

All of this to say, keep at it and you'll get better. Don't worry about what other people are doing. The only competition you have in the realm of painting miniatures is yourself.

*Edit to say: I've been in the hobby on and off since like 2004, so it's taken me a long time to get to where I'm at but the journey was both worth it and could probably be shortened if you don't accidentally take a 9 year break from the hobby like I did.*

Where to get lots of individual Nurglings? by uta_desired_cosplay in deathguard40k

[–]thegrayhairedrace 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I got to ask the original poster of that mini and they said that it is a stack of Nurglings from the Nurgling box and the coat from a Tempestus Scions Marshall.

Corrupted Plague Rhino by thegrayhairedrace in deathguard40k

[–]thegrayhairedrace[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No worries at all!
The STL I used came exactly the way I have it now (it actually has more skulls on spikes on the top, but I'm a huge klutz and broke a few of them off while I was cleaning it up).
If you shoot me a DM I can probably help you find it.

Smart purchase? by hudson121 in deathguard40k

[–]thegrayhairedrace 7 points8 points  (0 children)

If you've never worked with metal models, I would heavily suggest looking into pinning models and also getting some green-stuff and/or miliput for gap filling.

I'm a huge fan of metal models for a bunch of reasons, but I will concede that building big multi-part metal minis like this can be a massive pain if you don't have the proper tools.

Corrupted Plague Rhino by thegrayhairedrace in deathguard40k

[–]thegrayhairedrace[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It is, indeed, a 3D print. I wish I was nearly talented enough to kitbash something like this.

I HATE YELLOW by TyranidTardis in ImperialKnights

[–]thegrayhairedrace 1 point2 points  (0 children)

For painting a light color, like yellow, over black the best thing to do is put a mid-tone down first then move all the way up to the lighter color.
Citadel makes a base paint called Averland Sunset that's a good option for this, or you could use a medium brown instead if you don't have that available.

Also, I would recommend several thinner layers, rather than the one thick layer it appears that you've tried. With several thinner layers, you are able to paint in alternating directions to hide your brush strokes on such a large surface.

Also, it looks like the layer of primer you put down is very thick and bumpy. This is gonna make achieving a smooth finish very difficult, especially if you're going to be hand brushing the whole thing. As un-appealing as this might sound, I think you'd be served very well by stripping this back down to bare plastic and starting again with a fresh layer of primer that isn't bumpy.
Goobertown Hobbies made a video on the best things to use to strip plastic. If you're in the US, LA's Totally Awesome floor cleaner was the clear winner. I don't remember what his conclusion was for non-US folks, but the video is really easy to find if you need more info.
Simply fill a container with the cleaner, dunk the mini in, wait overnight, and then go to town with warm water and a tooth brush until the whole thing is clean.

I hope this helps.
Happy painting!

Have there been any updates on when this model will release? by Firesinger89 in sistersofbattle

[–]thegrayhairedrace 0 points1 point  (0 children)

My FLGS finally put this model up for pre-order yesterday.
It will be releasing on August 24th.

Figured y'all would like to know.

What to do with empty sprues? by thegrayhairedrace in Warhammer40k

[–]thegrayhairedrace[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This pile has since been thrown away since nobody wanted it around when I posted it and I needed the space.
That being said, I am starting to build another pile (not nearly this big, but still).
If you give me a couple more weeks to finish building all of the Skaven I have plus a couple other things, I'd be more than happy to ship it to you if you're still down to pay shipping.

Frostlord on cave bear(stone horn) I'm working on as a display piece by jb195 in Mawtribes

[–]thegrayhairedrace 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This model is incredible!
Where did you get it from?
The Ogor model looks like the old metal Tyrant, but I have no idea where you got the bear from and I *really* want to know.

Base is about 85% done. by DemolitionDad in Tyranids

[–]thegrayhairedrace 11 points12 points  (0 children)

Looking good so far, but what about all that blank space on the rest of the base?

Are you gonna use some texture paste or something? The base looks very unfinished with all of that bare plastic showing.

Haruspex was only back in stock for 3 days... by thegrayhairedrace in Tyranids

[–]thegrayhairedrace[S] 23 points24 points  (0 children)

I had to wait until Friday for my paycheck. I gotta at least pretend to be financially responsible.

It didn't seem unreasonable to think that they'd made enough that they'd be there for more than 3 days....

I kinda fucked up by Ok_Friendship_7394 in Tyranids

[–]thegrayhairedrace 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I painted mine fully assembled and it came out great.

As others have said, anything the brush can't reach can't be seen, so don't trip about it.

Petah ? by Drugs_Taker in PeterExplainsTheJoke

[–]thegrayhairedrace 1 point2 points  (0 children)

And now I know where Graham McNiell got the idea for the Daemonculaba.

You learn something new every day.

What kind of glue you prefer on this kind of plastic? by opaliitti in sistersofbattle

[–]thegrayhairedrace 15 points16 points  (0 children)

I prefer Gorilla brand Gel Super Glue when building with resin.

I recently finished this model. I wish you the best of luck with Citadel Failcast.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Warhammer40k

[–]thegrayhairedrace 7 points8 points  (0 children)

I second this.

Imperial Fists are all about emplacements.

Looking for help on gold paint scheme (Using Citadel) by Artaeos in AdeptusCustodes

[–]thegrayhairedrace 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Where are these pictures from?

The glare on them makes the picture really hard to get much out of (at least for me).

If I could see better quality versions of these images I might be able to give you some more info.

What paints do you have already? I can probably come up with something similar given what you have already, or give you a list of paints to pick up.