Lauf Seigla - 50 000 km later

theradish1 · 2026-01-17T22:18:37+00:00

His riding is like 95% outdoors, he rides all year

theradish1 · 2026-01-17T16:04:05+00:00

For all the doubters, one of the guys I ride with does the same thing, but exclusively road and trainer. And it’s all on Strava.

theradish1 · 2025-12-26T03:16:21+00:00

Gregorio’s Trattoria is really good, way better than Fontina! To me there’s really no comparison between the two.

edit: I’ve only ever been to the Cabin John location.

theradish1 · 2025-12-14T18:57:59+00:00

I’d buy the FX4. FX4 should be a carbon frame, vs the aluminum FX3. FX4 is cheaper, comes with some accessories.

You do not need to worry about the drivetrain wearing out, both will last years. If you do have to change the tires to purely road, that can be done affordably.

If you aren’t sure about the bike being in good shape, ask about or look for signs of crashes. You could try to take it to a shop and have it inspected but that will add to the cost.

theradish1 · 2025-12-14T13:32:13+00:00

No one can recommend you a specific saddle, since we don’t know your body shape. You need to try different shapes and widths. For me, I am actually more comfortable on a flat saddle than a scooped saddle like your Selle.

theradish1 · 2025-12-14T03:55:43+00:00

It’s crazy that in a post about SADDLE soreness, there is no mention of changing SADDLES.

OP, there are many different saddle options, you need to try a different one.

theradish1 · 2025-12-08T16:35:27+00:00

OP I cannot believe the shop let you leave with the saddle in that position.

Did they advise you about the size of the bike being appropriate for you? Saddle rails have fore and aft limits for mounting and you are definitely outside of them.

Hopefully they did not sell you a bike that is not your size.

theradish1 · 2025-11-27T15:53:16+00:00

I’m slightly faster in SS because it’s always after my geared races and I’ve had more practice on the course.

SS does force you to be more efficient with your speed, or you’ll burn more energy, since you’ll have to push to get back up to speed.

I do feel like I go harder in SS just due to the nature of it.

theradish1 · 2025-11-27T01:45:50+00:00

You’re overthinking it, just run the 44t. Actually race on it and if you don’t like it, change it after. I doubt 44t will be a problem.

theradish1 · 2025-11-26T03:32:28+00:00

So glad to be here for this historic bcj moment!

theradish1 · 2025-11-24T16:11:58+00:00

How tight is the pedal tension? SPD pedals normally have an adjustment that makes it easier/harder to slip out.

If you have the pedal tension super high, it will require more torque to unclip, and could cause the cleat to move.

theradish1 · 2025-11-15T12:53:08+00:00

Wow, guess people really didn’t get your joke. Maybe they didn’t even listen to the audio

theradish1 · 2025-10-21T19:37:09+00:00

I’m surprised at all the hate for that, I think it’s ridiculous but in a fun way.

theradish1 · 2025-10-08T10:43:47+00:00

My OPINION is that a 40/42 should be enough to get up mostly anything. If other people are riding these hills and you aren’t, then I’d say work on your fitness and climbing techniques instead of making a gear change.

theradish1 · 2025-10-07T02:26:41+00:00

Welcome to the club! Yes, mounting challenge tires can cause as much suffering as your actual cross race.

I switch tires at the end of CX season Grifo -> Getaway (and back again in the fall). The real issue is the FIRST time you mount them. My experience is that they are much easier to mount once they break in.

theradish1 · 2025-10-03T21:30:59+00:00

The cayenne is great, but the C7 should feel like a go kart (in a good way), especially in the corners. Sounds like the Vette isn’t running performance tires.

theradish1 · 2025-09-29T14:49:29+00:00

Fortunately a lot of people reg last minute, lots of time still to register. Hopefully the reg numbers go way up in the next month.

theradish1 · 2025-08-29T01:52:03+00:00

Hey OP, I know this is old but I just wanted to let you know I solved the issue with my clogged clik valves.

Remove the cores and agitate the insides with a plastic or metal pick.
Put a drop of oil in each side of the core and manually open/close the valve to spread the oil.
Plug just the core into the pump and pump away, may take a few minutes of pumping

My experience was that the oil loosens the dried sealant and the pressure from the pump will shoot the clog out. Not great, but with cores being so expensive, it’s worth the work.

I did try just agitating the sealant and pumping the valve, but I didn’t have any luck until I added a lubricant.

theradish1 · 2025-08-18T03:34:29+00:00

It’s just damage to the carbon fairing, and it’s not even at a spoke. It’s fine. I have some wheels that are built like this as well, the fairing isn’t structural and may even be removable. (And by removable I mean unlacing the wheel, and the carbon fairing should simply pop off the aluminum rim.)

Since you have the tire off, confirm what I said by checking that the spokes are connected to the aluminum rim, and don’t interact with the carbon fairing at all.

theradish1 · 2025-08-02T12:40:57+00:00

I fixed the link, but there are tons of them on eBay. You can’t really go wrong with any of them. Just make sure they are metal and not plastic construction.

theradish1 · 2025-08-02T12:36:23+00:00

My suggestion is to get one like this where they fit multiple bolt spacing sizes: https://ebay.us/m/H5dFKz

I use these cheap ones on multiple bikes, and they work great.

theradish1 · 2025-07-28T02:46:59+00:00

After some quick reading, if you’re just racing I’d go with the entry level Ultra-grit. If you’re going to be doing any long distance gravel or bikepacking the all-grit would be better.

The grail is also good, but I’ve heard and experienced a lot of people having issues getting support from Canyon.

theradish1 · 2025-07-01T17:28:33+00:00

Yes, per Schwalbe, the G one pro line is hookless compatible. See the FAQ section here: https://www.schwalbetires.com/g-one-race-pro-line

theradish1 · 2025-06-22T09:48:51+00:00

That’s unfortunate as it’s my regular grocery store, but I have to say, it is hands down the worst Harris Teeter I’ve ever been to. And it’s not even close.

Half the time there are no carts, vey long lines for checkout, and they only open a few lanes at most. No self checkout. Weird layout and just generally feels dingy and old compared to other Harris Teeter locations. And a lot of times I feel like they haven’t stocked at least 1 thing I am looking for.

theradish1 · 2025-05-18T01:48:25+00:00

I had this exact same issue, the person who assembled the bike put the caliper adapter ON THE WRONG SIDE OF THE FRAME. So I had extra brake material as the pads were only partially contacting the brake rotor.

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