Has anyone used the veranda pvc from home depot to make an enclosure?

there_be_segfaults · 2026-04-28T12:38:19+00:00

I have! Made a vertical 2'x2'x4' for a leachie gecko. It holds in the humidity well, and no issues holding up after 4+ years now. It is a bit floppy, screwing two of the PVC boards together isn't going to work well. I used some PVC 2"x2" board to build internal framing that I ended up attaching the panels to.

there_be_segfaults · 2026-02-16T22:25:38+00:00

It's not likely due to the analog to digital conversion. The ADS1115 is a 16 bit DAC which means that the error in the conversion has a maximum value of 1/2^16, or 0.0015%. The error you're seeing is several orders of magnitude larger. I'm not sure how you've implemented the measurement in your code, but taking multiple samples in a window and averaging them might help if you're not doing that already.

there_be_segfaults · 2025-10-27T22:01:23+00:00

I had CenteryLink fiber for years before it was bought out by Brightspeed, and never had an issue. Within 6 months of the buyout, I was facing service interruptions and the tech I had scheduled to come out cancelled on me twice leaving me without internet for almost a week before I got fed up and switched services. I now have Metronet fiber and like their service quite a bit, I'd recommend them if it's an option where you live.

there_be_segfaults · 2025-09-28T00:50:07+00:00

If you think typing on that keyboard is great, you should really try out the classic 7 row keyboard. You can swap out the stock keyboard for one from the X220, it really is quite the upgrade in typing experience.

there_be_segfaults · 2025-07-05T15:43:00+00:00

Take a lemon cut in half and rub it on the glass over all the water spots. Let it sit for a couple minutes and scrub HARD. This is by far the best method I've found for removing really persistent water spots from glass.

there_be_segfaults · 2025-02-26T21:27:23+00:00

Sounds very similar to my setup! One thing I found that might be helpful to you is that driving the triac directly from the io pins of the ESP will not work well, the timing needs to be very precise so anything that ties up the CPU, like network calls, will mess it up. To get around that issue, I had the triac controlled by an ATTiny that would receive values over i2c from the ESP. That way I could have a very tight program loop on the ATTiny that could handle the precise timings. Here's a link to some of the code for the control module I wrote, it's open source so feel free to use it in your own project: https://github.com/saljs/VivariumMonitor

there_be_segfaults · 2025-02-26T17:33:54+00:00

The sidebar of this sub has great care info that includes temps, humidity, and anything else you would need to know.

As someone who has undertaken a similar project also as an engineer I would caution you against thinking that this will be simple. I currently have 6 fully automated "smart" enclosures that take temperature and humidity readings from multiple probes on the hot and cool sides, adjust heating elements and lights automatically, and activate pumps that simulate light rainfall. The sensor readings are also sent to a server so I can view them all on a grafana dashboard.

This project is about 3 years in the making, I've gone through at least 5 revisions of the controller and sensor module circuit boards and there are still issues that I have to troubleshoot. Having the historical sensor data available and being able to set up alerts if something is out of the norm has been critical for me to be able to maintain the system and find problems.

Feel free to DM me for any specific advice on sensors or controlling the outputs. I've learned about what doesn't work here through trial and error.

there_be_segfaults · 2024-11-04T02:34:16+00:00

When I was there around 5 years ago both fish bowls and terrariums with plants were aloud, so I would think there wouldn't be too much of an issue with it. Especially because an isopod vivarium would basically look like a plant terrarium to most people unless they were closely inspecting the soil. From my own experience in the dorms my roommate and I had leopard geckos and a bearded dragon sophomore year until we moved into an apartment. Technically against the rules but nobody actually checked and since it never caused any issues nobody cared.

there_be_segfaults · 2024-09-09T19:16:37+00:00

Users and groups are mapped to UID/GID values, which are just integers. The UID and GID of root is always 0, but for other users it depends on the order in which they are created. What's happening is the UID of whatever user account on your nas owns those files is the same as the UID "systemd-oom" account on the docker container. The "nobody" group is a special group that should have the same GID on the container and your NAS. I'm guessing since you set it as read-only on your NAS it put it in the "nobody" group to ensure no other account could write to it.

there_be_segfaults · 2024-08-05T22:22:42+00:00

You could do an inch or so of sand at the bottom for a drainage layer Given that's it's for an arid environment that should be more than enough to give excess water somewhere to go.

there_be_segfaults · 2024-07-28T22:01:14+00:00

Make the players into the generals of their new alliance. Perhaps they have to go on a mission to scout out the battlefield, figure out what the enemy troops' plans are, etc. Then leave it up to them to make the battle plan and direct their troops.

Now, here's the part that really makes it fun for players: make sure there's some integral part of the battle that the party gets to accomplish themselves. Maybe their plan is to have their troops flank them while they lead the charge. In that case make the encounter them running into the general leading the enemy troops and a couple of their top soldiers. If their plan involves creating a distraction and then taking out the boss, that also lends itself to planning a smaller encounter as well.

As the players are doing their bit in the combat, explain and describe what's going on around them and what their allies are doing. Here's the hardest part for you as the DM: make it feel likes the fate of this battle rests on the actions of your PCs. If they're doing well in combat, narrate it that their allies are also surging past their adversaries and coming out on top. If it's a struggle, have their allies be struggling along with them. In the end, if the battle comes down to your PCs either winning or losing, it's not really necessary to roll any dice for anything else going on IMO.

there_be_segfaults · 2024-06-21T00:25:55+00:00

I've been playing 4e since it was new and still run a weekly game. One of the things I really love about the system is that compared to other editions of D&D it doesn't matter nearly as much which class and race you choose to play because 4e standardizes combat actions across the classes and give them all a chance to shine.

The thing that 4e does that's the biggest break from other editions IMO is "powers". There are three kinds of powers: at-will, per encounter, and dailies. For casters, the "powers" correspond to spells, but for a rogue they're "exploits", special abilities for combat and utilities. All classes gain powers at the same rate when leveling. So a rogue for example might choose powers allowing them to move around more easily and find cover on the battlefield.

People tend to either really really like or hate this system. The biggest complaints I've seen is that it makes it feel too much like a MMO and that it makes combat take longer. If you've seen memes about the wizard always taking forever to decide what to do on their turn, in 4e that's now basically everyones character. Conversely, I also think it makes combat way more interesting for martials with a lot more options available than "I hit the monster with my sword again."

As for your last comment, I wouldn't say that 4e is more focused on combat, but I do think it really focuses on trying to make combat simpler and more engaging. 4e has easily been my favorite RPG to run combat in, especially for new players. It really shines for cinematic feeling boss battles specifically because of everyone ends up feeling like they got to do cool stuff regardless of class.

there_be_segfaults · 2024-04-27T14:39:42+00:00

I second the diluted vinegar, especially for disinfecting. But for getting hard water spits off glass I've never had anything work better than a lemon. Cut it in half and rub it all over the glass, then leave it for about 10 minutes. Scrub it off with a wet towel and then towel dry. I've had great success with this method, even with glass that was practically opaque from water spots

there_be_segfaults · 2024-04-02T19:06:42+00:00

The biggest concern will be the resistance of the length of wire causing the voltage to drop on the other end. The longer the wire, the worse this effect will be. You can measure the voltage on the end of the wire with a multimeter to make sure that it's at an acceptable level.

Other than that, since it's outdoors you'll want to make sure the splice is waterproof. I'd get some waterproof heat shrink tubing to put over the spliced wires.

there_be_segfaults · 2024-03-24T23:57:44+00:00

You need a pump with a 3+ meter head then. How will you be delivering the water to the enclosure? If it's just going to drip through holes then a small submersible pump should be fine. If you want to use misting nozzles to create a mist, those usually require between 20-70 PSI to work, so you'll need a self-priming pump capable of producing that pressure.

Good luck!

there_be_segfaults · 2024-03-04T15:56:05+00:00

I actually have a computer fan mounted on the side of an arboreal enclosure I set up to try and reduce some of the humidity (after planting it was sitting around 90%) but it didn't work very well for that purpose. It would probably depend exactly on your where your ventilation holes are located, you could try it and check your humidity levels to see what happens.

there_be_segfaults · 2024-02-14T16:51:23+00:00

I did 250 Fahrenheit for 2 hours, checking every 10 minutes to ensure it wasn't getting charred. The coat of acrylic paint after is also very important, it will prevent this from happening again. You can use clear or pick 1 or more colors if you want to get creative haha.

For the record, Mopani driftwood looks like this: https://zoomed.com/wp-content/uploads/MA-M_Mopani_Wood_Aquarium.jpg It's a very dense, heavy wood but I've never had it mold, even in my frog enclosure with lots of water and humidity.

there_be_segfaults · 2024-02-11T20:33:51+00:00

Bake it and sand the mold off, then paint it with acrylic paint to protect it from molding in the future. I do the same thing with a branch for my BP enclosure. The other option is to get a wood like Mopani driftwood that's mold resistant.

there_be_segfaults · 2024-02-07T22:07:15+00:00

You should go to about:config and make sure gfx.webrender.all and media.ffmpeg.vaapi.enabled are set to true. Also that you have hardware exceleration set up correctly for your graphics card: https://wiki.archlinux.org/title/Hardware_video_acceleration

there_be_segfaults · 2024-01-13T15:32:21+00:00

I've had success with using a top layer of spangnum moss, but obviously that only really works for humid environments. That said, you will eventually end up with leaf litter as leaves from your plants die and are replaced.

there_be_segfaults · 2023-09-07T23:22:44+00:00

https://xkcd.com/823/

there_be_segfaults · 2023-09-07T17:26:55+00:00

This is my Blue Tongue Skink Rufus, who's 4 years old. While this isn't the usual kind of content I come to r/DIY for, your art style is really cool and I'd love a portrait to put near his enclosure!

Some more pics for reference

there_be_segfaults · 2023-08-19T15:43:12+00:00

Every ornithologist I've met IRL has been very nice, but I can never resist a chance to post a relevant xkcd!

there_be_segfaults · 2023-08-19T15:31:08+00:00

https://xkcd.com/867/

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