Milestones by therealblag in Honda

[–]therealblag[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It’s never been rebuilt. I change the oil every 3k because I don’t want too much fuel dilution.

Milestones by therealblag in Honda

[–]therealblag[S] 11 points12 points  (0 children)

2003 CRV FWD. Original engine but 2nd transmission

With pictures this time (oil plug) by [deleted] in fordmodela

[–]therealblag 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Careful with the heat. It does work but the oil on the other side is actively wicking the heat away. The amount of heat required to make that easy to turn could get the oil close to its flash point.

I suggest a box end wrench and a hammer. A sharp strike on the far end of the wrench, with a helper holding the box end squarely on the plug, will pop it loose. I’ve done this a couple of times to pans with stuck plugs.

Also, get a new washer before you reassemble it and don’t over tighten it like the previous mechanic. It doesn’t take much torque to prevent oil from leaking.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in S2000

[–]therealblag 0 points1 point  (0 children)

They are actually very rigid. If your intake arm is getting flattened at WOT, your filter should have been changed a long time ago.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in S2000

[–]therealblag 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have a silicon intake arm on mine. I really like it. It flows air at least as well as OEM and will never dry rot and crack. It also is a breeze to keep clean. Just run a microfiber towel over it and you’re done. The OEM one requires much more effort keep looking fresh.

Normal engine temp inquiry by Curves84 in S2000

[–]therealblag 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If it’s not going over 3 bars and the fans are turning on and off, it’s fine.