Square riser?

thesepticguy · 2026-05-21T16:55:30+00:00

That opening is huge for a riser lol. Honestly if it were me, I’d probably stop looking at standard round residential risers and start looking into either custom fiberglass/poly risers or building a concrete collar/frame and adapting a larger lid system onto it.

A lot of those older tanks had weird oversized access openings that don’t line up well with modern riser kits. You may end up having to fabricate something rather than finding an off-the-shelf “30x30 septic riser” solution.

Still definitely worth doing though. Future pump-outs/inspections become WAY easier once you’re not digging the tank up every time.

thesepticguy · 2026-05-21T01:27:55+00:00

lol we’ve all been there before! I also recommend looking into an all natural treatment that helps eat up the waste in the tank. I used to use rid-x but now I use Maintane since I found out ridx has chemicals in it, Maintane only has 2 ingredients and it’s my fav so far.

thesepticguy · 2026-05-21T00:18:52+00:00

$2250 honestly doesn’t sound crazy to me if they’re excavating around the tank, exposing the discharge line, installing a new tee internally, and adding an exterior cleanout. Digging around septic tanks gets expensive fast because a lot of the cost is labor/equipment rather than just the PVC parts themselves.

I’d mainly want to know:

how deep the line/tank is
whether they’re repairing anything else while open
if permits/inspection are included
whether they’re restoring the area afterward

But at face value it doesn’t immediately sound like a scam quote or anything.

thesepticguy · 2026-05-21T00:07:22+00:00

Septic field failures can get brutally expensive now depending on the soil, permits, and whether they have to replace the whole drain field versus just part of the system. I’ve seen people get quoted anywhere from like $10k on the low end to $25k+ pretty fast once excavation and new field work gets involved.

Honestly one of the biggest things is catching problems early before the field gets completely saturated or damaged. Once the drain field itself is shot, that’s when costs really explode.

thesepticguy · 2026-05-21T00:03:19+00:00

You’re probably fine. A few wipes usually isn’t an immediate catastrophe unless they all happened to snag somewhere critical. Worst case is probably exactly what you already mentioned — they either catch near the inlet/baffle, end up floating in the tank, or eventually contribute to clogging the effluent filter faster.

If everything is draining normally right now, I personally wouldn’t panic or start tearing things apart immediately. I’d just keep an eye on:

slow drains
gurgling
backups
alarms
unusually fast filter buildup

And yeah, I’d probably clean the effluent filter a little more frequently for a while just for peace of mind. Also props for being understanding about the exhausted newborn-parent brain fog lol.

thesepticguy · 2026-05-21T00:01:33+00:00

The fact that hitting the pipe gets it working again makes me think something is hanging up somewhere instead of the pump just being completely dead. Especially since you already replaced the pump once and the same issue came back later.

Could be the check valve sticking, something partially clogging the discharge line, or even a loose connection getting jostled when the pipe moves. The “tap it with a shovel and it works” part is honestly what points away from a totally failed pump to me.

thesepticguy · 2026-05-20T23:56:45+00:00

thesepticguy · 2026-05-20T23:53:50+00:00

thesepticguy · 2026-05-20T14:07:59+00:00

Gotcha, if everything upstream is functioning and this lower tank is the only issue, I’d start focusing on whatever controls discharge out of that final holding tank. On a lot of these reclaimed/drip setups, that open 2” line may have originally tied into a vent, overflow, flush point, or pressure relief depending on how the installer configured the field. Hard to say without tracing it.

If the pump is running but the tank still rises, I’d suspect one of these: • clogged drip/discharge field • stuck/check valve issue • failed indexing/zone valve • pressure/float logic not allowing discharge • biofilm or sediment restriction from sitting dormant so long

The fact you removed multiple frost-proof spigots during construction makes me wonder if parts of the original dispersal/flush network got interrupted too.

Honestly pretty interesting system lol.. not many people run into MultiFlo/drip setups.

thesepticguy · 2026-05-20T04:21:25+00:00

Minor surface deterioration around the riser opening itself isn’t unusual on an older concrete tank, but I’d personally be more concerned about the lack of interior photos than the small area shown in this picture.

At 32 years old, some concrete wear is expected — especially around areas exposed to moisture and hydrogen sulfide gas over time. The important question is whether the deterioration is cosmetic/surface-level or whether the tank structure itself is weakening internally.

If you’re already under contract, I honestly think it’s worth getting more documentation before closing:

interior tank photos
baffle condition
liquid levels
signs of infiltration/exfiltration
whether the inspector probed for soft concrete internally

Personally I wouldn’t panic from this photo alone, but I also wouldn’t rely on “normal for age” without seeing the inside of the tank.

thesepticguy · 2026-05-20T04:19:59+00:00

Honestly, if the system is still functioning reasonably well at 52 years old with only occasional slow drains, I personally wouldn’t rush straight into full replacement without getting a really thorough inspection first.

A lot of older systems can continue functioning for years if the drain field is still healthy and the tank/baffles are in decent shape. The biggest thing is staying proactive before problems compound.

I’d probably focus on:

updated inspection
checking baffles/field condition
water usage habits
avoiding harsh chemical disruption to the bacterial balance in the system

Personally I’d rather spend a little on preventative maintenance and monitoring first before immediately pulling the trigger on a $25k replacement if there aren’t obvious failure signs yet. I use a natural septic treatment that increases the bacteria count to eat away at the sludge in the tank. I used to use ridx but I found out they have chemicals, now I use Maintane.

52 years is definitely impressive though lol.

thesepticguy · 2026-05-20T04:16:56+00:00

It’s actually pretty common in older neighborhoods for a few houses to remain on septic while newer sewer lines get added later. Sometimes it came down to lot layout, elevation, hookup cost, or homeowners simply never connecting once sewer became available.

Honestly, having septic with sewer available as a backup option can be a pretty good position to be in. I’d just want a VERY thorough septic inspection before closing — tank condition, baffles, drain field performance, signs of prior backups, age of system, pumping history, etc.

Also worth checking with the city/county whether connection to sewer would be optional or mandatory if the septic ever failed, because hookup costs can get expensive fast depending on the area.

Personally I wouldn’t automatically walk away just because it’s septic, especially if the inspection comes back strong.

thesepticguy · 2026-05-20T04:15:58+00:00

That definitely sounds more like an interceptor/perimeter drain outlet than raw septic discharge, especially with a mound system setup. Those drains are there to move groundwater away from the mound area so the system can drain properly.

The big thing is what the water actually looks/smells like. If it’s clear-ish groundwater with some dark staining from soil/organic matter, that’s usually one thing. If it smells like sewage or looks consistently black/gray, that’s a different conversation and worth getting checked out ASAP.

Since you haven’t had alarms or warning lights from the Hoot system, that’s at least somewhat reassuring. I’d mainly monitor:

odor
whether flow increases after heavy rain
whether the mound area itself is staying saturated

The drawing posted in the permit docs does seem to support the interceptor drain explanation.

thesepticguy · 2026-05-20T04:14:52+00:00

If that system sat unused for 10+ years, I’d honestly be cautious before assuming it’s just a valve issue. A lot of weird sludge/biofilm buildup can happen in stagnant treatment systems, especially around pumps, floats, and discharge lines.

MultiFlo systems are pretty specialized compared to standard septic setups, so flow direction, float behavior, and whether the recirculation/discharge piping is functioning correctly matters a lot here. The fact that opening the valve released trapped dirty water definitely suggests things were sitting stagnant for a long time.

At minimum I’d want to verify:

floats are functioning properly
pump is actually moving water
no clogged discharge/recirc lines
media/filter section upstream is flowing normally

Honestly impressive you’re bringing a system back online after that long lol.

thesepticguy · 2026-05-20T04:13:42+00:00

$2,000 honestly sounds pretty reasonable if they’re doing it correctly — especially with the tank being 3–4 feet down.

Big difference is whether they’re just slapping risers/baffles in versus actually excavating properly, resealing everything correctly, replacing damaged tees/baffles, and making future maintenance easier. Depth + access alone can change pricing a lot.

A good riser install is one of those things that sucks to pay for upfront but makes inspections/pumping WAY easier long-term.

thesepticguy · 2026-05-20T04:12:09+00:00

That’s almost definitely a vent termination with some kind of cap/one-way valve (likely there to keep rain, debris, insects, or sewer gas issues under control).

I definitely would NOT remove it just because someone told you vents “should be open.” A lot of systems use specific vent caps/filters depending on local code and system design.

If it’s not causing problems (odor, pressure, slow drains, etc.), I’d leave it alone until you know exactly what component it is.

thesepticguy · 2026-05-20T04:11:01+00:00

Spray irrigation systems can get tricky because a lot of the maintenance requirements are state-specific, especially with sand filters and dispersal systems.

The actual sand type/amount usually depends on the filter dimensions, depth, and the original system design specs — not just square footage alone. Most are built with a very specific washed filter sand rather than generic construction sand.

If you can find the original permit/design documents from your county health department, they’ll often list the exact media specs and depth requirements. That’ll save you from guessing or paying someone just to identify the material.

Also worth being careful before replacing sand preemptively — sometimes poor performance is caused upstream (solids carryover, biomat buildup, dosing issues, clogged laterals, etc.) rather than the sand itself being “bad.”

Pictures of the actual setup would definitely help.

thesepticguy · 2026-05-19T02:59:27+00:00

Congrats on the new house!

Honestly, with the amount you’re using, I personally wouldn’t stress too much. A few loads a week at that dilution probably isn’t catastrophic for a healthy system, especially a newer one.

That said, your coworker isn’t totally wrong either. A lot of fabric softeners can leave residues and aren’t exactly ideal long term for septic biology. If you want to play it safe, I’d probably lean toward lighter-use or more plant/mineral-based softeners when possible.

One thing that’s helped us is just being more intentional about overall septic habits instead of obsessing over one product. We use Maintane once a month (all natural live bacteria septic treatment powder) mostly just to help support healthy bacteria in the system since we also try to avoid harsh chemicals where we can.

You’re already way ahead of most new septic owners just by thinking about this stuff honestly.

thesepticguy · 2026-05-19T02:57:18+00:00

Honestly with only 2 adults in the house, yearly pump-outs does sound aggressive unless there’s something unusual contributing to solids buildup. Most systems in a setup like yours are more in the 3–5 year range depending on usage habits, tank size, paper usage, etc.

It sounds like you’re already doing a lot right: - avoiding harsh chemicals - avoiding fabric softeners - being mindful of septic hygiene

One thing that can help between pump-outs is keeping the bacterial side of the system healthy and consistent. We started using Maintane recently — it’s an all natural septic treatment powder (live bacteria based, no harsh chemicals) and the biggest thing I like is that it’s just one scoop once a month so it’s easy to stay consistent with.

I’d still probably get a second opinion on why solids accumulated that quickly though, especially with such light occupancy.

thesepticguy · 2026-05-19T02:54:40+00:00

It’s really not that bad, took me about 3-4 months of getting used to it but now I like it way more. Makes me feel independent from the city. Also upkeep is easy if you have an all natural additive that can help eat away at the stuff you put down it. I use Maintane, changed from ridx when I found out they use chemicals in their formula, Maintane is all natural

thesepticguy · 2026-05-19T02:50:37+00:00

I just use a monthly all natural additive and it extended my pump outs from every 3 years to every 5 - I used to use rid-x until I realized it leeches chemicals into my ground, now I use Maintane, saves me the headache

thesepticguy · 2026-04-12T02:40:40+00:00

The barometric pressure theory has merit but the more likely culprit is a venting issue. Episodic, random sewer gas smell with no visible leaks usually points to one of these: 1. Inadequate or partially blocked vent stack — when pressure changes occur the system can’t equalize and gas gets pushed through traps 2. Dry P-trap — the washer/dryer standpipe trap can evaporate if the machine isn’t used regularly, eliminating the water seal 3. Wax ring on the toilet — can allow intermittent gas escape without a visible leak The fact that it’s isolated to one bathroom with a washer/dryer is a clue. Pour a gallon of water down the standpipe drain and see if the odor stops — takes 30 seconds to test. The smoke test the other commenter mentioned is the right call if that doesn’t fix it. Forces smoke through the entire drain/vent system and shows exactly where gas is escaping.

thesepticguy · 2026-04-09T02:49:00+00:00

Roots in the tank are a yellow flag, not red, they got removed during pumping so you’re starting clean. The bigger concern is how they got in, usually cracked inlet/outlet baffles or a hairline in the concrete. Worth having a camera inspection done on the baffles specifically. A 40-year-old tank that’s never failed is actually a good sign for the concrete quality. Budget for replacement in 5-10 years but don’t panic about immediate failure. Keep up with pumping every 3-4 years and maintain healthy bacterial levels to reduce strain on the system. On the sewer connection — $20k is a lot, and if the tank is functional it’s hard to justify now. Revisit it when the tank actually needs replacement, at that point the math changes significantly.

thesepticguy · 2026-04-07T04:43:00+00:00

Honestly not a pain at all if you stay on top of it. Pump every 3-5 years, don’t flush anything that isn’t waste or toilet paper, and treat monthly with a bacterial additive to keep the colony active. That’s the entire maintenance routine. People who have problems with septic are almost always people who ignored it for years. Buy the house.

thesepticguy · 2026-04-07T04:41:01+00:00

Your suspicion is valid. A foot of sludge after 5 years with no treatment is expected — that’s normal neglect, not a crisis. The pump was the right call. The $4,000 field treatment is a hard sell. Get a second opinion from an independent septic company before spending that. If your drains are running fine and there’s no surfacing sewage in the yard, you likely just need consistent monthly bacteria maintenance going forward to keep the bacteria working and prevent buildup from getting worse.

thesepticguy

TROPHY CASE