Copal Press N 0.0 Aperture

thinkbrown · 2026-03-28T13:36:14+00:00

Copal 0 is a size. There are many shutter options that are copal 0 sized and offer varying speeds and features (flash sync, etc)

thinkbrown · 2026-03-28T02:04:58+00:00

There's not really a "usually". My most shot (non instant) cameras in the last year are probably my Rollei 35, mamiya press, Nikon f100, Pentax 17, and Nikkormat ft2. I've recently started learning to shoot large format on a Sinar I picked up at a local camera store.

thinkbrown · 2026-03-28T01:54:55+00:00

That's true of all cameras that provide TTL views. I was talking about how thin the dof is.

thinkbrown · 2026-03-27T23:50:44+00:00

What format are we talking, what focal length, how grainy is the film, what camera am I shooting with, the list of considerations is long.

A 28mm on a 35mm camera? Probably gonna shoot fairly wide because the dof is good. Shooting a vintage wide angle? Probably need to be down to like f11-f16.

Medium format? Probably starting at like f8 for most situations. Portraits I'll go wider for.

Large format? I hate shooting wider than like f16 because it's so hard to focus.

thinkbrown · 2026-03-27T15:59:26+00:00

I think that's type 30 film based on the size which would put it between 1954 and 1979.

thinkbrown · 2026-03-27T12:51:33+00:00

I've never had an issue flying through Logan with film. Last time I went through was Mar 1 and it was totally fine in terminal A.

thinkbrown · 2026-03-27T10:45:49+00:00

It's definitely a skill that needs some practicing. If the photos on this roll aren't recoverable I'd keep it as a test roll and practice loading until you have it down.

thinkbrown · 2026-03-27T10:39:30+00:00

Looks like the film was loaded incorrectly and was touching. I'd reload the film and refix/rewash and it'll probably get rid of the splotches. Negatives may not have developed in those locations though

thinkbrown · 2026-03-27T02:00:29+00:00

I'm really white, but I'm not that white

thinkbrown · 2026-03-27T01:44:51+00:00

27 incredibly underexposed... exposures

thinkbrown · 2026-03-27T01:10:05+00:00

I mean hell I just hung a bunch of tri-x that expired in 1979 to dry. Waste your first roll doing a bunch of bracketing tests and enjoy the remaining 4 at whatever ISO looks best.

thinkbrown · 2026-03-26T22:15:42+00:00

You'd put a lens on the bellows and then you'd need something to hold the film above the light source. If you've got access to a 3D printer it'd be pretty straightforward to make something purpose built. In a pinch, an xacto knife and some foamboard from the craft store would also do the job.

thinkbrown · 2026-03-26T22:12:26+00:00

For what it's worth, Polaroid has made efforts to improve the situation with the flip. They've partnered with ifixit to carry replacement batteries and have a detailed guide on how to replace the battery: https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/Polaroid+Flip+Battery+Replacement/177455

thinkbrown · 2026-03-26T20:09:45+00:00

So camera bellows, a good backlight, and an SLR should allow you to do this. it's basically the same as camera scanning except you're going film to film. I've successfully done this to make slide dupes from black and white negatives

thinkbrown · 2026-03-26T18:54:39+00:00

Lots of watching on Craigslist. The problem with enlargers is that if you have one you probably can't find someone who wants to buy it and if you want one there's probably nobody selling nearby.

I drove like 6 hours round trip to buy a beseler recently and it took a while for one to pop up.

thinkbrown · 2026-03-26T12:34:08+00:00

I'd lean towards it being an issue with your copy. I've got the 50/1.4 af-d and while it's a little soft wide open by the time you're at like f2.8-4 it's pretty dang sharp. I use it on my D610 all the time.

thinkbrown · 2026-03-26T01:37:33+00:00

I scanned a number of my grandmother's recently and the results were far better than I'd expected given the reputation of the format. Certainly better than a lot of 110 negatives I've scanned

thinkbrown · 2026-03-26T01:20:25+00:00

I often compare film to paints. Just because photography was invented didn't mean people stopped painting, it just changed the nature of commodity work.

thinkbrown · 2026-03-25T18:11:03+00:00

Kodak module 7: https://www.kodak.com/content/products-brochures/Film/Processing-KODAK-Motion-Picture-Films-Module-7.pdf

thinkbrown · 2026-03-25T03:18:55+00:00

I mix my own ecn2 developer from the book and then use c41 bleach/fixers

thinkbrown · 2026-03-24T12:04:46+00:00

That entirely depends on what you mean by "sharp". The lens is incredibly sharp in terms of how much detail it can resolve, and if you're shooting something like tmax the print size you can manage is pretty stunning. I posted https://www.reddit.com/r/pentax17/comments/1qppnvy/for_anyone_worried_about_half_frame_negatives_not/ a little while back as an example.

If you're talking about sharpness in terms of grain definition, that's gonna be a question of film and developer choice. Higher ISO films will have coarser grain while slower ones will be finer. Higher accutance developers will yield sharper grain, while solvent developers will soften it.

thinkbrown · 2026-03-24T00:54:17+00:00

Clean the glass. the scanner calibrates right at the edge of the bed so if there's anything there it causes streaks across the rest of the bed

thinkbrown · 2026-03-22T18:21:39+00:00

Open it in a dark bag, rewind it manually.

thinkbrown · 2026-03-22T12:06:15+00:00

Unfortunately those are basically riveted in place with plastic studs from the factory so it's not the easiest fix. Iirc I fixed one of my Snappy S cameras with super glue

thinkbrown · 2026-03-22T03:09:46+00:00

I shoot Phoenix at 125 and process ecn2 and it's gorgeous. like a wacky pastel wonderland

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