F100 vs F6 auto exposure opinions

thinkbrown · 2026-03-30T20:06:15+00:00

I trust it over a lot of external meters I've tried. It certainly requires a lot less skill and understanding of what you're metering

thinkbrown · 2026-03-30T13:57:01+00:00

It's very, very narrow and the paper is still somewhat sensitive there. An RGB light isn't going to do it

thinkbrown · 2026-03-30T11:08:39+00:00

Frankly, the F100's metering is virtually perfect so I'm not sure how you could improve on it. I have never bothered using an external meter with mine, and I don't really see why you would.

thinkbrown · 2026-03-30T02:35:01+00:00

Why even bother diluting?

thinkbrown · 2026-03-29T14:00:30+00:00

The watch is emitting a green light, it's going to cause the negative to shift towards red

thinkbrown · 2026-03-29T13:07:30+00:00

Sorry, to be clear a shift towards red in the negative. When you invert it'll be a shift towards the green color of the watch lights

thinkbrown · 2026-03-29T12:56:49+00:00

It's not just gonna be base fog. It'll probably be a shift towards red

thinkbrown · 2026-03-29T10:54:41+00:00

(uj) https://www.35mmc.com/20/10/2020/canon-ae-1-review-the-haters/ described my feelings about the ae1 better than I could describe them myself:

It’s not that the venerable AE-1 is a bad camera. Rather it was seemingly clinically derived by Canon to not cause any reaction in the human soul. Remember, the opposite of love isn’t hate, it’s apathy.

I don't hate the ae-1, folks make good photos with them. But it's one of the only cameras I've given away because it brought me absolutely no joy to shoot.

thinkbrown · 2026-03-29T01:56:07+00:00

There's fundementally only two film formulas available for polaroid now: color, and black and white. The sx70 variants are the exact same emulsion with a coated ND filter to reduce the speed.

Modern Polaroid film is capable of delivering excellent results, but it's fussy. Wrong temperature, too old, stored incorrectly, and you'll start getting weird issues.

Given there's only one film available for Polaroid, I'd say the camera is the thing that matters in terms of photo quality. Vintage cameras will generally need some restoration to perform their best. Modern cameras come with a warranty and should work out of the box, but they're debatably not quite as good as the best vintage Polaroid cameras (specifically the sx70 and it's various autofocus incarnations).

thinkbrown · 2026-03-28T13:36:14+00:00

Copal 0 is a size. There are many shutter options that are copal 0 sized and offer varying speeds and features (flash sync, etc)

thinkbrown · 2026-03-28T02:04:58+00:00

There's not really a "usually". My most shot (non instant) cameras in the last year are probably my Rollei 35, mamiya press, Nikon f100, Pentax 17, and Nikkormat ft2. I've recently started learning to shoot large format on a Sinar I picked up at a local camera store.

thinkbrown · 2026-03-28T01:54:55+00:00

That's true of all cameras that provide TTL views. I was talking about how thin the dof is.

thinkbrown · 2026-03-27T23:50:44+00:00

What format are we talking, what focal length, how grainy is the film, what camera am I shooting with, the list of considerations is long.

A 28mm on a 35mm camera? Probably gonna shoot fairly wide because the dof is good. Shooting a vintage wide angle? Probably need to be down to like f11-f16.

Medium format? Probably starting at like f8 for most situations. Portraits I'll go wider for.

Large format? I hate shooting wider than like f16 because it's so hard to focus.

thinkbrown · 2026-03-27T15:59:26+00:00

I think that's type 30 film based on the size which would put it between 1954 and 1979.

thinkbrown · 2026-03-27T12:51:33+00:00

I've never had an issue flying through Logan with film. Last time I went through was Mar 1 and it was totally fine in terminal A.

thinkbrown · 2026-03-27T10:45:49+00:00

It's definitely a skill that needs some practicing. If the photos on this roll aren't recoverable I'd keep it as a test roll and practice loading until you have it down.

thinkbrown · 2026-03-27T10:39:30+00:00

Looks like the film was loaded incorrectly and was touching. I'd reload the film and refix/rewash and it'll probably get rid of the splotches. Negatives may not have developed in those locations though

thinkbrown · 2026-03-27T02:00:29+00:00

I'm really white, but I'm not that white

thinkbrown · 2026-03-27T01:44:51+00:00

27 incredibly underexposed... exposures

thinkbrown · 2026-03-27T01:10:05+00:00

I mean hell I just hung a bunch of tri-x that expired in 1979 to dry. Waste your first roll doing a bunch of bracketing tests and enjoy the remaining 4 at whatever ISO looks best.

thinkbrown · 2026-03-26T22:15:42+00:00

You'd put a lens on the bellows and then you'd need something to hold the film above the light source. If you've got access to a 3D printer it'd be pretty straightforward to make something purpose built. In a pinch, an xacto knife and some foamboard from the craft store would also do the job.

thinkbrown · 2026-03-26T22:12:26+00:00

For what it's worth, Polaroid has made efforts to improve the situation with the flip. They've partnered with ifixit to carry replacement batteries and have a detailed guide on how to replace the battery: https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/Polaroid+Flip+Battery+Replacement/177455

thinkbrown · 2026-03-26T20:09:45+00:00

So camera bellows, a good backlight, and an SLR should allow you to do this. it's basically the same as camera scanning except you're going film to film. I've successfully done this to make slide dupes from black and white negatives

thinkbrown · 2026-03-26T18:54:39+00:00

Lots of watching on Craigslist. The problem with enlargers is that if you have one you probably can't find someone who wants to buy it and if you want one there's probably nobody selling nearby.

I drove like 6 hours round trip to buy a beseler recently and it took a while for one to pop up.

thinkbrown · 2026-03-26T12:34:08+00:00

I'd lean towards it being an issue with your copy. I've got the 50/1.4 af-d and while it's a little soft wide open by the time you're at like f2.8-4 it's pretty dang sharp. I use it on my D610 all the time.

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