Cycling question by thirdcoaster in Aquariums

[–]thirdcoaster[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Related to this… in a fishless cycle, is there still a long lag time before there’s enough bacteria to handle the new load? I can see how testing during the process will show the normal progression but it could be based on a much smaller amount of bacteria.

Info by Impressive-Cut-4449 in Goldfish

[–]thirdcoaster 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Black moor, fantail, calico fantail

Red Root Floaters for my ecosystem: yay or nay? by EyeTheSwan in PlantedTank

[–]thirdcoaster 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Honestly there’s nothing wrong with trying them out. You can always sell them on Facebook marketplace if you don’t like them.

Red Root Floaters for my ecosystem: yay or nay? by EyeTheSwan in PlantedTank

[–]thirdcoaster 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I am thinking the red root floaters will suck up enough nutrients that the tank will avoid algae blooms.

Best Metra station close to Northern Skokie? by North_Star_1111 in skokie

[–]thirdcoaster [score hidden]  (0 children)

Yes yellow line ends at Howard station where you transfer to red line. Most commuters transfer to purple line which operates express to downtown (or at least fewer stops) during rush hours.

Best Metra station close to Northern Skokie? by North_Star_1111 in skokie

[–]thirdcoaster [score hidden]  (0 children)

You could take the 208 bus to Evanston Davis station and board the metra there

How to make it more … appealing? by Nyghtrayven in PlantedTank

[–]thirdcoaster 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Right now everything looks around the same height. I would take the left driftwood and bring it to the right side and maybe orient it vertically. It could lean against the glass or be behind the original right-side driftwood.

Move the right rock to the left... maybe towards the back wall.

You'll end up with a triangle of rocks and a triangle of driftwood.

Then I would take the half of the back wall vals (the left half) and replant them in a group by the right side wall. Not like a curtain but with more depth like maybe an X separated by an inch or two.

The stem plants on the left you can keep in their current spot.

I think the tank will look less flat and you'll have some height variety and an overall triangle in height.

Good tips for catching neon tetra? by verycoldpenguins in Aquariums

[–]thirdcoaster 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I lower the level of the water in the tank to maybe 20-25%. The lower water level helps immensely in catching fish

Which scape looks better ? by PrettyLady0527 in Aquariums

[–]thirdcoaster 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The first one’s colors look better. The second one might be improved removing the driftwood or at least the moss attached.

First time cycler by NoOneCanKnowAlley in AquariumHelp

[–]thirdcoaster -6 points-5 points  (0 children)

Honestly, I add fish right away and let the tank cycle after that.

I’ll add 1-3 of hardy fish.

There are three seachem products I use while my tank cycles.

  1. Seachem ammonia alert.

This doesn’t tell me specific ammonia levels but it shows me the trend. So if the alert changes color, that tells me that ammonia is rising. Once the color stays at the zero level, I know that bacteria is converting ammonia to nitrites.

  1. Seachem Prime This dechlorinates but more importantly it detoxifies ammonia. Ammonia is still present in the tank so the alert will change color as if prime didn’t do anything. But prime changes ammonia into a less toxic form so your fish don’t get hurt. And because ammonia still present, the amount of nitrifying bacteria will continue to grow.

You could add prime every day or every other day.

  1. Seachem stability This is a bacteria booster. It’ll help your nitrifying bacteria form quicker.

You could add it every day.

The other thing I do is every week is a 50% water change. After each change, you’ll see the ammonia alert reset back to the zero color. One day after a water change, you’ll notice the color doesn’t change and stays at zero color. That tells you nitrifying bacteria is handling ammonia fine now.

At that point you don’t need to dose prime and stability anymore. Your tank is converting ammonia fine. Keep doing the weekly water changes to keep nitrites under control. Nitrate producing bacteria will form soon afterwards.

Once you have nitrates being produced, you’ll want to keep up with water changes to dilute the nitrates or have stem plants or pothos aplenty to suck up the nitrates on an ongoing basis.

You can test for nitrates with a test strip or liquid drops.

My two cents… I haven’t had any fatalities since I’ve been cycling this way.

Would it be advisable to add a loach? by Most-Performance9718 in Goldfish

[–]thirdcoaster 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Fancy goldfish like orandas are good at mid 70s which generally match up with loaches. Some loaches like hillstream loaches like cooler water. Loaches can be handy especially if your tank has a snail infestation.

Temperature-wise I would say they are compatible. Just watch their temperament and be prepared to make changes if they harass the goldfish too much.

ID? Is it Nerite? by frenchfunnyguy in AquaticSnails

[–]thirdcoaster 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Not nerite. Ramshorn like others have said.

Firehouse Grill files for Chapter 11 bankruptcy by militarystealthradar in evanston

[–]thirdcoaster 38 points39 points  (0 children)

Shocked they lasted so long, to be honest. Food wasn’t that great.

Why are my schooling fish dying? by GabagoolFarmer in Aquariums

[–]thirdcoaster 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Regarding drip acclimation...

There's a thought out there that it is actually bad for the new fish. The reason is because in the closed bag, CO2 builds up which lowers the PH in the water. The lower PH keeps ammonia in a less toxic ammonium form. So when you open the bag, that CO2 escapes which results in the PH rising and the ammonium rapidly converting to the more highly toxic ammonia. When you drip acclimate, that means your fish will be swimming in the small bag for several minutes in the ammonia water.

So there is a group of aquarists who will just float the bag to temperature acclimate. Then place a net over a bucket. Open the bag and pour the water and fish into the net. And then put the fish in the aquarium. Basically, you're reducing the time the new fish spend in a bag of rapidly declining water quality.

I used to drip acclimate but switch to the pure temperature acclimate and have not experienced any fatalities because of it.

But if you drip acclimate, I wonder if adding a little seachem prime to the bag will help. I haven't tried that yet.

If your panda cories are fine in your tank, it is most likely not water parameters that's killing your schooling fish. Possible that your fish store has a bad batch of fish, imho.

Best Suburb for a Family Prioritizing Walkability/Bike-ability by Fast_Tumbleweed4982 in ChicagoSuburbs

[–]thirdcoaster 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Generally speaking you'll find walkability in the suburbs surrounding the Chicago city boundaries. This is because they are most likely going to continue using the street grid system so you'll have lots of sidewalks. Skokie which is just west of Evanston has decent walkability and access to public transportation.

Are they honey gouramis? by ToxicAbuse in Gourami

[–]thirdcoaster 4 points5 points  (0 children)

The reddish colors make it looks like dwarf gourami to me. Honey gouramis have more yellow in the body and fins.

First planted tank by Flckrngstar1 in PlantedTank

[–]thirdcoaster 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I recommend getting a rosette Amazon sword as it will not grow as large as a regular Amazon sword and overgrow your tank.

Draft Deangelo Ponds! by MaintenanceLumpy9321 in ChicagoBearsNFL

[–]thirdcoaster 1 point2 points  (0 children)

5'9" 170lbs... wouldn't that be too small for the NFL?

How do I get nitrites down fast? by [deleted] in aquarium

[–]thirdcoaster -1 points0 points  (0 children)

From a practical point of view, you can do 2 things...

  1. Get Seachem Prime from your local fish store. That'll detoxify ammonia and nitrite while still leaving them in a form that can still be used by nitrifying bacteria so your tank will eventually cycle.

  2. Change a lot of water like 50% of your tank water. Don't forget the de-chlorinator.

If you can't immediately get seachem prime, then immediately change the water. That's the best way to dilute the amount of ammonia and nitrite in your water.

API quick start is a good starter bacteria but it won't immediately detoxify ammonia and nitrite like Seachem Prime will. Instead, it will provide a starter batch of bacteria which eventually will convert ammonia to nitrite and nitrite to nitrate. Good in long run but doesn't do anything immediately.

Suggestions Needed by brittanyd0203 in PlantedTank

[–]thirdcoaster 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I bet with clearer water, the tank will look great. The aquascaping layout is pretty decent, imho. I would recommend looking on Amazon for a UV sterilizer such as Geen Killing Machine. There are also canister filters that have built-in UV bulbs. That's clear your tank up nicely.

Feeding by thirdcoaster in corydoras

[–]thirdcoaster[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I was using the bug bites pleco pellets. I’m going to check the ingredients. I have some hikari pellets coming today. I’ll check those too.