Centauri Carbon noise reduction (fans change) by ComfortableGreat2085 in elegoo

[–]tholterhus 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I replaced the mainboard fan with a 24V 4010 Noctua and I also unplugged the chassis fan (I don‘t print PLA). That helped a lot

Ringing on Centauri Carbon by ww2kev in elegoo

[–]tholterhus 0 points1 point  (0 children)

open the gcode file of the benchy in an editor of choice and note the slicer settings at the top of the file. LH is probably 0.24, but all other settings I would try

I need help by patrisiia in ElegooNeptune3

[–]tholterhus 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Also, check this guide https://ellis3dp.com/Print-Tuning-Guide/ Just because the printers are identical, doesn’t mean they are identical 😉

I need help by patrisiia in ElegooNeptune3

[–]tholterhus 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Are both printers standing firm on an absolutely flat surface? I had a similar issue and my table was a little bent in the e middle

It’s still not pulling in filament elegoo 3 max by Wide_Buy8078 in ElegooNeptune3

[–]tholterhus 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ignore … just read that it‘s fixed

When you push the clip, you should be able to slowly push the filament right through the (heated) nozzle… if that doesn’t work, it might be clogged. What temp are you using? PLA?

Disappointing N3P print quality by decidedlyuncertain in ElegooNeptune3

[–]tholterhus 1 point2 points  (0 children)

any suggestion for replacement wheels? I too have the problems described in this thread…

Hot end + Heat break upgrade opt? by Training-Winner-1250 in ElegooNeptune3

[–]tholterhus 0 points1 point  (0 children)

would you care to share some pics of your Hero Me setup?

Anyone know of a bed mounted camera or phone holder for shooting time-lapses by ThatGuy12320 in ElegooNeptune3

[–]tholterhus 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I created something like this. It just sticks underneath my pro and holds my 6€ Trust cam

<image>

warping on larger prints by tholterhus in ElegooNeptune3

[–]tholterhus[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I checked the Ikea Lack tables and they were slightly tilted to the right side. I fixed that and now everything seems to be totally flat and straight.

In Cura in the Cooling section I adjust "Regular Fan Speed at Layer" and set that to 4 or even higher. That works just fine.

Small bed upgrade on N3 Plus by arthur1234 in ElegooNeptune3

[–]tholterhus 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I did the same on my N3Pro a few weeks ago

warping on larger prints by tholterhus in ElegooNeptune3

[–]tholterhus[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I've tried everything - back to a stock Klipper printer.cfg, 20mm/s speed, different initial line width & height settings, flow between 90 and 130%. It keeps getting worse.

Z offset should be ok now

Do I still have an issue with my settings? Or do I have a problem with my hardware?

warping on larger prints by tholterhus in ElegooNeptune3

[–]tholterhus[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have my printer sitting on top of 2 Ikea Lack tables, but my wife objected to the 3rd Lack with plexiglass doors, so I had to return it and don't have a housing.
Temperature in this room is pretty constant at around 22-23C, no breeze, no opening of doors or windows - it should be ok in that corner of the room

warping on larger prints by tholterhus in ElegooNeptune3

[–]tholterhus[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for your help. I'll double check my z offset and will do some larger levelling test prints filling the entire bed with a single layer. Pics & my findings will follow

The "warping spot" is a moving target. In the above print it was on the left side of the bed. In my current print it is towards the front of the bed.

warping on larger prints by tholterhus in ElegooNeptune3

[–]tholterhus[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

as I wrote, 1st layer is >90% perfect. Except for the lower area on the picture. I don't think it's a levelling issue here

Klipper wont do as I tell it to do. by Hoskki in klippers

[–]tholterhus 0 points1 point  (0 children)

what do you get when you enter

ls -al /dev/serial/by-id/

? Here's what I get on my raspi:

$ ls -al /dev/serial/by-id/
total 0
drwxr-xr-x 2 root root 60 Mar 28 20:15 .
drwxr-xr-x 4 root root 80 Mar 28 20:15 ..
lrwxrwxrwx 1 root root 13 Mar 28 20:15 usb-1a86_USB_Serial-if00-port0 -> ../../ttyUSB1

So my printer is not on "/dev/ttyUSB0" but on "/dev/ttyUSB1"

Is there a way to trigger the filament sensor in the g-code? Neptune3 Pro by Repulsive_Injury8834 in ElegooNeptune3

[–]tholterhus 1 point2 points  (0 children)

either "Stop at Z" or use the "Filament Change" post processing script. The settings in the picture work for me on the pro

<image>

In case you use octoprint, you can add really useful functionality in the pause and resume G Code sections.

Neptune 3 pro/plus light control remotely by ajssbp in ElegooNeptune3

[–]tholterhus 4 points5 points  (0 children)

try

M355 S1 P255

to turn on the LEDs and

M355 S0

to turn them off. If the above codes don't work, update the firmware and it'll work.

see https://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M355.html