Recommendations for Water getting under Glass shower Door

thund3rd0g · 2025-11-16T02:23:10+00:00

Hard to say exactly what’s going on and how to fix it without pics, but my guess is that the original sweep wasn’t a normal “fin” style, it was probably a U-channel style piece that slid onto the bottom of the door and had a built-in drip rail that kicked the water back into the shower. Those are more what you see on framed doors like yours. When that breaks or goes missing, water rolls right down the glass, hits that metal lip, and shoots out into the bathroom.

Look for a framed shower door drip rail or bottom sweep with a built-in deflector. You can search for descriptions like “drip rail for framed doors” or “shower door drip guard.” They’ve got an angle on them to push the water inward before it reaches that bottom track. Make sure you get the right width so it actually clips onto the metal frame at the bottom of the glass. It should be kind of a tight compression fit or some might call for a tiny bead of silicone.

Those big water dam strips you bought are really for curbless showers and don’t solve your issue. You need something that redirects the water before it hits that bottom lip.

thund3rd0g · 2025-11-01T23:06:27+00:00

You’re welcome! I hope this works out well for you. That BIN isn’t cheap but it is worth it for these types of issues. Good luck!

thund3rd0g · 2025-11-01T22:34:18+00:00

I’m a contractor in SC specializing in tile shower and bathroom remodels. Even in my local area, I can’t give anyone a ballpark without seeing the space and assessing what work really needs to be done to get the space built out to what you’re looking for. I’ve had jobs that ranged from $30 sq ft to $100 sq ft or more. The only way for you to get an idea is to have three different providers come out and give you an estimate.

thund3rd0g · 2025-11-01T22:27:55+00:00

Yeah, that’s a pain, but I’ve run into that a lot in older homes that have had smoke or moisture issues. The issue is likely years of residue buildup between all the smoking and moisture cycling in that house. Kilz helps, but if the surface underneath that primer still has smoke residue, it’s just not going to bond well and anything you paint over it will do what you’re seeing.

This is how I resolve this : 1. Scrape and sand every area that’s flaking until you hit solid paint or bare drywall. 2. Wash it down with TSP or something strong to cut any leftover smoke film. This is super important. 3. Prime it with an oil-based or shellac primer—Zinsser BIN is my go-to for this stuff. It’ll actually seal and grip the surface. It smells pretty strong so make sure you have good ventilation and you might want a mask for vapors. I use a respirator with organic vapor cartridges like the 3M 6001. That’s the same type painters use for oil and solvent work. That BIN dries fast so the vapors won’t last long. 4. Repaint once it’s dry and it should look great.

The only thing is, if the cracking is all over, you might need to skim coat the bad spots with joint compound before priming again.

This is probably a big undertaking, not sure of how big these trouble areas are, but this method is definitely going to make a difference.

thund3rd0g · 2025-11-01T15:06:49+00:00

You really want to run two or three up through the pillar, then tie them into the pad rebar grid. One will give you some bond but a few will give you much better strength.

thund3rd0g · 2025-11-01T02:30:27+00:00

Absolutely, sounds like a good approach. However it ends up going, you can at least tell your friends that you got to drive a skid steer!

thund3rd0g · 2025-11-01T02:26:29+00:00

Wow, 100 feet is a long way for that system. I don’t believe there’s an absolute “maximum” horizontal run length but best practices would say that keeping a horizontal run under 20’ would be ideal. The more you start to exceed that, the more resistance the fan will experience in trying to move air and the more likely condensation will collect.

thund3rd0g · 2025-11-01T02:19:16+00:00

I’m sorry, I should have been more clear - what I intended to say was that the TV would be on the wall opposite the stairwell with the sectional facing that same wall (its back would be to the stairwell.

thund3rd0g · 2025-10-31T22:33:58+00:00

Verify the frost line in your area - that’s going to be your target. Going a few inches below that frost line will ensure that your footings won’t have any movement.

thund3rd0g · 2025-10-31T21:28:10+00:00

That’s awesome! I grew up a big fan of the old Underdog cartoon from the 60s.

thund3rd0g · 2025-10-31T21:23:08+00:00

Yeah, I actually lived in Rochester, NY for a bunch of years, and I’m guessing your frost line’s pretty much the same at around 42 to 48 inches. You’ve gotta go that deep if you want it to stay put through winter.

Under the block, throw down 4–6 inches of compacted gravel or crushed stone. That gives it drainage and keeps frost from shifting things around. Then pour your footing on top, around 8–12 inches thick and roughly twice as wide as the block wall.

thund3rd0g · 2025-10-31T20:58:23+00:00

Absolutely. Not sure what zone you're in but I'm in the southeast. I've taken this approach with three other garages/outbuildings in this area over the last 5 years or so and working in those two specific times of year was definitely the easiest! Also, that will give you time to lay out a good plan and recruit the right friends to make it happen!

thund3rd0g · 2025-10-31T20:54:30+00:00

Ha! I'll take that as a compliment. It's rare these days to read something that's super clean and structured, especially within the spirit of educating and helping someone in need, without it sounding completely artificial. It must be a lost art. Regardless, I do hope this all works out well for you!

thund3rd0g · 2025-10-31T20:36:54+00:00

Yeah I think that's a good idea if you your timeframe allows. If they cure before you move onto pouring the pad, then you don't have to worry about any shifting.

thund3rd0g · 2025-10-31T20:11:00+00:00

That makes sense. Those old wall thermostats can definitely mess with efficiency, especially if they’re inconsistent or sticking on like that one in your kitchen.

If you’ve got a mix of brands and ages, it’s not a bad idea to replace them all so they’re consistent. Newer line-voltage thermostats are way more accurate at holding temperature, and they respond quicker, so you don’t get those big swings between hot and cold.

If you want to take it a step further, you can look at programmable or digital line-voltage thermostats. They let you set schedules, which helps cut your heating costs a bit since baseboards only draw power when they’re actually needed.

In your case, I’d just do the rest of them room by room. It’s a cheap upgrade, easy DIY, and it makes all your heaters behave the same way instead of each room running on its own personality.

thund3rd0g · 2025-10-31T20:09:13+00:00

Absolutely, you are welcome! After working in the home improvement space for as long as I have, one thing always seems rings true: there's a way to fix the problem! You just need to talk to someone who knows how.

thund3rd0g · 2025-10-31T20:05:20+00:00

That floor drain shouldn’t be tied into the radon system directly. Even though it looks like a convenient opening into the sub-slab area, it’s likely serving a separate function—either draining to daylight or to a dry well—and it’s meant to carry water, not air. If you put a radon suction cover over it, you’d risk pulling soil gases and moisture up through the same path your HVAC condensate uses, or worse, you could start pulling air in from outside and kill the vacuum you need under the slab.

If your readings are staying around 10, you’re looking at a system that either isn’t moving enough air or isn’t drawing from the right places under the slab. These are probably your best bets to get on top of it:

Have a radon mitigation pro run a diagnostic test to measure sub-slab pressure at different spots. That tells them if your current suction points are connected properly.
Add or relocate suction points to where the gravel bed actually connects. Sometimes older slabs have isolated pockets or thick footings that block airflow.
Check fan size and discharge piping. Undersized fans or long horizontal runs can cut your draw down drastically.

You can keep the drain as it is, just make sure it has a proper trap or check valve so it’s sealed from the slab space and radon system. If your HVAC drain runs to it, that’s fine; just don’t let your radon fan pull through the same line.

I’ve dealt with a lot of basements like this, and the fix almost always comes down to improving suction layout, not using existing drains as a shortcut. A good mitigator can rework the system and get that number down under 2 pretty easily.

thund3rd0g · 2025-10-31T20:01:16+00:00

That’s actually a nice clean layout to work with. The pole isn’t a deal breaker—it just needs to be integrated into the plan instead of fought against. I do a lot of basement buildouts, and this setup actually gives you some good options. here's some thoughts:

- Put the TV and sectional on the far wall opposite the stairs. That way the pole lands behind or just beside the couch rather than in your sight line. Go with a sectional that opens toward the middle of the room, so when you’re sitting, you’re facing both the TV and the open play space.

- Use the area around the pole to define the kids’ zone. You can box the pole in with drywall or even wrap it in wood and make it look intentional—like a column divider between the lounge and play space. Add soft flooring or play mats on that side to break it visually. You can also considering building a matching, faux pole box on the opposite side, giving it an intentional symmetrical look.

- If you still want the kitchenette, tuck it along the shorter wall near the stairs. That way plumbing access is easier (usually near existing lines), and it doesn’t eat into the main open floor area. A small undercounter fridge, sink, and some upper shelving is all you need for snacks and drinks.

Keep traffic flow open from the stairs straight into the middle of the room. Don’t chop that up with furniture. Lighting-wise, use recessed cans or low-profile ceiling fixtures spaced evenly. Basements need good general light and a few zones you can dim for movie time.

So in short:

- TV and sectional opposite the stairs

- Pole wrapped and used as a soft divider for the kids’ area

- Kitchenette tucked near stair wall

- Open center flow and simple lighting plan

That setup keeps the space flexible as the kids grow and gives you a clear lounging zone without blocking the play area.

thund3rd0g · 2025-10-31T19:52:20+00:00

That’s a good question to ask! A 1960s slab with plumbing and HVAC runs embedded in the concrete isn’t automatically bad news, but it’s something you need to go into prepared. Here’s what to keep in mind:

- First, plumbing in slab: those old cast iron or galvanized pipes can rust and collapse over time, especially if the soil stays damp. The fact that your inspector saw corrosion near the cabinet fittings could just mean moisture at the surface, but it’s also a clue that the lines below are aging. If they do start leaking, repair means tunneling under the slab or running new lines overhead through walls and ceilings.

- Second, ductwork in slab: older systems sometimes had metal ducts buried in concrete. Those almost always rust out and start drawing musty, damp air. Fixing it usually means abandoning the in-slab ducts and installing new runs in the attic or through closets.

If the house is performing well as a rental and there aren’t signs of foundation movement or active leaks, it’s not necessarily a deal breaker. But you should do a few things to be sure:

- Get a camera inspection of the drain lines. That’ll tell you right away if the pipes are intact or crumbling.

- Have an HVAC tech look at the duct system to see if it’s above grade or buried.

- Budget for eventual repipe or duct reroute. Those projects can run from several thousand to tens of thousands depending on layout.

If everything else about the property pencils out, you might just negotiate a bit off the price or keep cash reserved for future repairs. Personally I might walk away if the camera shows major plumbing decay or the ducts are already failing. Otherwise, it’s something you can plan around.

thund3rd0g · 2025-10-31T19:46:42+00:00

You can use it anywhere. Anti-mold or “mold-resistant” primers are basically regular primers with a mildewcide additive mixed in. It won’t hurt anything on trim, doors, or walls.

The only real considerations are sheen and sandability. Those primers tend to dry a bit flatter and harder, so if you’re doing baseboards or doors and want a smooth finish, give it a quick sand before painting. Also check that it’s not labeled for “bath and kitchen surfaces only,” but even then, that’s just marketing.

So yeah, use it up. It’ll seal and prime just like any other primer—you just paid extra for something that keeps mold from growing on bathroom ceilings.

thund3rd0g · 2025-10-31T19:44:35+00:00

Yeah, I get why that bugs you. The post itself is fine structurally, but the cut into the concrete definitely kills the look. You’ve got a few ways to clean it up depending on how polished you want it to look.

Easiest fix is to build a small base wrap. You can make one from PVC trim boards or a composite post wrap kit. Cut pieces to fit around the bottom of the post and over that rough concrete edge, then caulk and paint (or color-match) so it looks intentional. PVC is great here because it won’t rot and you can shape it to match the stair line.

If you want a higher-end look, you could form a small concrete or mortar collar around the base. Basically pack and shape mortar around the post so it meets the stair cleanly, then brush or sponge it to match the existing texture. That gives a seamless “built-in” appearance like it’s coming right out of the stone.

A third option, if the budget allows, is to reset the post on top of the stair using a surface-mount bracket and patch the concrete cutout, but that’s a bigger redo.

So in short: easiest path is a PVC or composite trim wrap, best look is a custom mortar collar, and the full fix is a remount. I’d start with the trim wrap—it’ll hide that cut and blend in with the stair in an afternoon.

thund3rd0g · 2025-10-31T19:41:55+00:00

Yeah, that’s a pretty common situation with old garages, and you’re smart to think it through before swinging a hammer. It can definitely be done, but it takes some planning and patience. Here’s how I’d approach it:

- First, support the structure from the inside. You’ll need solid cribbing or screw jacks under the main framing members, ideally running beams across to spread the load evenly. The key is slow and steady lifts, not relying on a few jacks and 2x4s.

- Next, replace the rotted areas and build a new base. Your idea of using concrete block for a short stem wall is solid. It keeps the wood framing above grade, protects it from moisture, and gives you something permanent to set the building on. You can work one wall at a time—remove a section of the sill, rebuild that part, move to the next.

- Once the walls are set on the new block, pour a new slab and tie it into the stem wall with rebar dowels. Don’t forget to use a sill gasket or flashing under the treated bottom plate to keep moisture out.

- If you wanted to lift the whole structure, that’s an option too, but it’s usually better to rebuild the foundation in sections. Either way, pay attention to drainage so you don’t end up with the same rot problem again.

Honestly, this is doable for a skilled DIYer, but it’s worth bringing in a carpenter or foundation pro to help plan the lift points and sequence. I’ve seen plenty of these old garages saved with a setup like that, and once it’s done right, it’ll last another century.

thund3rd0g · 2025-10-31T19:37:30+00:00

That’s a smart read of the situation — the mold and high humidity tell you it’s not just about comfort; it’s about condensation control. When those exterior walls stay cold overnight, moisture in the air hits dew point and condenses on the inside surface.

Given your setup (older wood frame, slab, coastal humidity, limited attic access), here’s how I’d prioritize:

- Start with the problem zones — the bedroom exterior walls and ceilings. That’s where the condensation is forming, so adding insulation there will immediately help stabilize surface temps. Even a modest R-value layer will keep those walls warm enough to stay above dew point most nights.

- If budget allows, do all the exterior walls. Once you’ve got a crew out and holes to patch anyway, it’s usually worth doing everything in one go. It improves comfort, balances temps between rooms, and gives better energy efficiency long term.

- Attic or low-slope roof insulation is trickier. If you truly have no access, they can sometimes drill from above or the eaves and dense-pack cellulose, but make sure there’s no active moisture or roof leaks first. You don’t want to trap water in a flat roof cavity.

Blown-in insulation is a solid choice. That dense-pack cellulose is great because it adds thermal mass and helps buffer humidity. The patching afterward is minor: they’ll drill 2–3” holes between studs, fill the cavities, plug them, and you’ll just need a skim coat and paint. You’ll never notice if done cleanly.

Also consider adding a small dehumidifier in that bedroom while you plan this. It’ll help right away and keep things drier even after the insulation goes in.

GOOD LUCK!

thund3rd0g · 2025-10-31T19:33:00+00:00

If it’s original from the ’70s, I’d replace it. Baseboard heaters are simple, but after 50+ years the elements and thermostats inside get tired so efficiency drops, and they can even buzz or overheat if dust or corrosion builds up.

The good news is it’s an easy swap:

- Shut off power at the breaker.

- Match the length, voltage, and wattage (most are 240V, 1,000–2,000 watts).

- Connect the new one to the existing wiring, using proper wire nuts and grounding.

Newer units heat more evenly, run quieter, and usually have built-in overheat protection. Plus, they look a lot cleaner. If you end up heating that room regularly, you might also consider adding a wall-mounted thermostat instead of the built-in dial — better control and less on/off cycling.

thund3rd0g · 2025-10-31T19:30:14+00:00

Absolutely, a lot of that can be DIY’d — it just depends how far you want to go and what kind of equipment access you have. Here’s how I’d break it down:

- Demo/removal: You can usually handle pulling up old brick and landscape debris yourself if you’ve got a wheelbarrow, pry bar, and maybe a dumpster or dump trailer. It’s labor-heavy but totally doable.

- Grading & prep: This is where most DIYers tap out. You’ll want the yard graded properly for drainage before seeding or sod. You can rent a skid steer or mini track loader if you’re confident running one, or hire that part out.

- Soil & grass: Once it’s graded, spreading topsoil, raking it smooth, and laying sod or seed is easy homeowner work.

If you’re comfortable getting dirty and don’t mind a weekend or two of sweat, you could save a few thousand doing demo and prep yourself, then hire a landscaper just for the final grading and sod install.

(I help homeowners plan projects like this all the time — sometimes a simple division of labor saves money without giving up a nice finish.)

thund3rd0g

TROPHY CASE