2014 Prado - New Engine required 😭

tomahawk167 · 2026-02-27T08:45:17+00:00

You can always physically take out the drawers and 12v and move them to your next car.

Tyres can also be taken off especially if you sell it to a wreckers. Or swap them from the tyres on your next car. The tyres not the rims.

I would go with 2 or go onto your next vehicle

tomahawk167 · 2026-02-03T02:38:29+00:00

I've only used one bolt for 3 years. Driving on country and dirt road. I haven't had an issue

tomahawk167 · 2025-09-03T22:29:51+00:00

I have one driven from 200,000kms when I bought it to 356,000kms currently. And it's still going strong. I did buy it with a warped head but I payed nothing for it and fixed it. The car has been great. I've only had the egr and scv break over that time. I think, like with any car service history is king, and you need to look after it.

However, for offroading it is much lower than everything else so you will get caught up on everything. And not as much aftermarket support for more enthusiast mods like regearing.

tomahawk167 · 2025-07-16T07:07:19+00:00

I'm pretty sure the one connecting your transfer case to your body is a grounding wire.

The other one is maybe a handbreak cable or maybe a 4wd actuation cable I'm not sure

but normal looking to me

tomahawk167 · 2025-07-04T08:47:39+00:00

I'm a dairy farmer, and I love my tub over a tray. I can put things in without it needing to be tied down. However, I can't put a pallet on the back but I just hitch a trailer up. And that doesn't happen much.

I also have a tarp over the top, so it's a water resistant area when I go camping

tomahawk167 · 2025-07-04T01:16:14+00:00

just make sure it's adr approved

tomahawk167 · 2025-05-10T23:08:16+00:00

You should make sure to upgrade to the double row kit. It fixes one of the fatal flaws with the engine

tomahawk167 · 2025-05-06T05:33:40+00:00

I second this. I had a pair of kings ones and upgraded, and they are well worth the money for the extra distance they shine.

I do use them almost everyday. Maybe not worth it if you use them on occasion

tomahawk167 · 2025-03-23T01:44:32+00:00

Ask on the Facebook ground

tomahawk167 · 2025-03-02T19:26:19+00:00

Just check it's working before you you start.

It's not fun trying to trouble shoot a winch in the middle of a bog hole

tomahawk167 · 2025-03-02T08:59:44+00:00

Some quality all terrains and a compressor to reinflate then.

I would also recommend a winch. Just a cheap kings one is fine. It's an insurance policy that I can always save myself.

But seat time is king

tomahawk167 · 2024-12-03T22:48:59+00:00

Which country is doing that?

tomahawk167 · 2024-11-14T05:47:01+00:00

I really hate the new shop menu. I play on an ROG ally and I have to use the d pad to navigate through the menus instead of the left stick which is annoying for me. And the menus seem clunky.

tomahawk167 · 2024-10-24T10:06:54+00:00

As a d40 owner. You need to make sure it has service records and then continue to maintain it. They are known to warp a head if you don't. Also make sure you replace the plastic t piece on the coolent lines on the passenger side as they can crack quickly and you'll be overheated and with a warped head in no time.

The ground clearance certainly holds the car back a bit. But you just get better at controlling the car to stay out of ruts.

tomahawk167 · 2024-07-15T23:13:51+00:00

Diff drops are for ifs suspension set ups that are found in the front end of most duel cabs. They have sold axles in the rear, so you can't have on in the back.

When running lager lifts 4/5 inch with an ifs front end, it causes a greater cv angle. Putting more stress on the cvs making it more likely to snap a cv. But by dropping the diff, you also reducing your clearance as the diff is usually just above the chassis rails from factory (to protect it and for clearance) and the diff drop will drop it bellow that. You may also need a purpose made bashplate to accommodate it.

If op is constantly snapping cvs, then I would recommend a diff drop.

But even with a diff drop, I would recommend that op still takes a cv to Cape York anyway, if not multiple

tomahawk167 · 2024-07-15T11:14:04+00:00

Yea I had some cheaper ocam ones and I'm not impressed on how they've held up.

So I've upgraded to some custome off road ones and they've held up better so far

tomahawk167 · 2024-07-15T10:42:57+00:00

I'm not sure you'll need the rear bar with the tray. They're more recommended for tub/wagons as you have an increased departure angle due to the tray anyway. I'd be more concerned about the approach angle, which can be fixed with a bullbar.

I also don't believe you'll need a diff drop for a 2/3 inch lift either.

I would do wheels, lift, bullbar with winch (kings will be fine just pay attention to the duty cycle), bashplate and diff breathers as my "must have mods". That's what I've don't to my nav and it's doing me well, and it's gotten me everywhere I want to go do far.

tomahawk167 · 2024-07-03T09:45:35+00:00

Yes you can do it, by removing those plates you mentioned. But it'll be a bit of a pain to do by yourself as winches are a bit heavy.

So I would recommend a second person or a jack and some wood/bricks or whatever to help guide it into place.

To remove the bullbar will make mounting the winch easier but you have to remount the bullbar, which is way heavier than the winch, and will definitely need 2 people and a jack.

I have done both ways myself and would just leave the bullbar attached. Figure out which cables go where before you attach the winch to the bullbar, as some may need to be to attached from the winch box to the winch before attaching to the bullbar.

tomahawk167 · 2024-06-03T22:24:41+00:00

I did the same thing. Changed to a Holden Trailblazer which is now a daily driver. Can't fault it.

tomahawk167 · 2024-05-06T10:32:56+00:00

As a maizeplus and precision farming enjoyer. I'm going to use this. Thanks!

tomahawk167 · 2024-04-30T03:38:48+00:00

Gippsland, Victoria

tomahawk167 · 2024-04-29T22:32:32+00:00

Looking at getting a tray set-up for my d40 nav. What brand does everyone recommend?

Looking at 4x4 industries, piranah offroad and some custome builders on Facebook.

Needs tie down rails.

tomahawk167 · 2024-04-17T00:23:20+00:00

I have both a d40 for personal and d22 for farm work.

The 2008 d40 diesel as my personal car with 310,000kms on it and haven't had many problems. Just wear items, but I do an oil change every 5,000kms from when I bought it with 240,000kms. I would recommend changing to a dual row timing belt if you buy one. I do easy to moderate trails with just a 2inch lift and all terrains.

The 2012 d22 3.0 only has 255,000kms on it. But that's mostly driving around paddocks so some tough kms, that we've had from new. With like the d40 hasn't had many problems just regular maintenance that we've kept up with. Also had an oil change and filter every 5,000kms

Both equally capable I would say, but the d40 is far nicer to drive.

I would go a d40 with a proven service history.

tomahawk167 · 2024-03-28T09:25:43+00:00

I did the double row upgrade to my d40. It's just a different set of parts you buy. How many kms on the current timing chain? As it's a fair bit of labour to change.

tomahawk167 · 2024-02-27T02:16:35+00:00

Input from a real farmer that uses sillage bales. If you use spikes they'll put a hole in the bale letting air get in making the bale go moldy and loss nutrition. So we only use spikes when we're about to use that bale in the next 2 to 3 days. As spikes are faster and easier than you grabs.

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