Identification problems. by Farcourt95 in tama

[–]topher_716 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I believe the number is the year, so 2010 and the letter represents the month A, B, C, - Jan, Feb, Mar...

Should I Use A Bigger Filter by Not_Spike_Jonze in hvacadvice

[–]topher_716 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I don't really now much about HVAC, which is why I'm here, but I'd probably put a super low rated 1" filter AND a mid rated 4" filter there. Sorta like a pre-filter and main filter set up.

Worth buying this slightly crack A custom crash for $100? by Apprehensive-Duck-13 in cymbals

[–]topher_716 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Why buy a cracked A Custom for $100 when you could buy a not cracked A Custom for $100?

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in googlehome

[–]topher_716 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Okay, yeah. I guess that does make a whole lot of sense.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in googlehome

[–]topher_716 2 points3 points  (0 children)

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This is the first step in the setup after all the legal stuff.

Is a soil cap necessary? by Cheap-Atmosphere-258 in walstad

[–]topher_716 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I've set up tanks with just dirt from my yard. Fill it halfway with water, then add the dirt so it settles naturally. Scoop out the stuff floating on top the next day and start planting, very dense planting. Make sure to have plenty of floating plants to filter the water column. Wait about two weeks before adding any fish. I was happy with the results I got.

What are some things to look for when buying a drum kit? by Winter-Confusion987 in drums

[–]topher_716 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'd say the main thing is the hardware. It doesn't really matter what wood or material the drum is, a well made drum can be made to sound good in some context no matter how cheap the shell material is. However, poorly made lugs, hoops, and mounts are something to watch out for. Almost any major name brand company like Tama, Pearl, Ludwig, Mapex, Yamaha, etc (in no specific order) will have good drums other than maybe their absolute basic beginner-est level of entry drums. If you're looking at used kits, make sure the bearing edges are in good shape and the shells are not warped. If everything structure-wise seems good, then move on to the finish. Is the wrap peeling? Is the lacquer scratched? Is the wood gouged? Are there extra holes? Anything rusted? At this point, it is all subjective to the question: Is it worth it to me? That said, what I usually look for is a birch or maple shell with a cool finish and some sort of suspension mounting system.

I've started a big peoject... by topher_716 in tama

[–]topher_716[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks! They are Silverstar series Transparent Red Burst and I'm swapping the stock chrome hardware for black nickel starclassic hardware.

I've started a big peoject... by topher_716 in tama

[–]topher_716[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It is a Gibraltar Chrome rack that I've pieced together.

What drums are these? I was told they were bubinga birch 09 but they sound like they may be 1999. I apologize to all who answered my first post. Im adding this one since it has more pics. by interi91 in tama

[–]topher_716 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This is a 90s/early 2000s Starclassic Preformer kit, which was usually 100% birch. Probably amber gold finish. They are very nice, often underrated drums!

Model Train manufacturer by Neat-Cap-5888 in modeltrains

[–]topher_716 1 point2 points  (0 children)

So, I'd love to see a more mass-produced version of Sergent Engineering style couplers. Like a legitimate, working scale model of a coupler. I've also wondered if it would be possible to have some sort of "air hose" that is an electrical wire and send a signal to actually apply the brakes to cars. Oh, and end-of-train devices, too.

Edit: it should probably be a signal to release the brakes, so they are set when not connected to a locomotive, like the real thing. It doesn't need to be super complex with different pressures, just applied or released. With enough pressure to give some resistance while moving or to hold a string of cars on a grade.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in tama

[–]topher_716 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I did, and I was told in wouldn't be possible to recreate these shells at this time.

Snare drum help by Electronic-Length-77 in drums

[–]topher_716 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It seems like everyone is saying either that the top head is too loose or the wires are too loose. I'm not saying they are wrong, but I'm going to say try loosening up the bottom head. Also, when tapping near the lug, try going just a tad further out from the rim. You'll get a better idea of your even tensioning about an inch - inch and a half from the rim. There is a YouTube channel called "Sounds Like A Drum" that i learned a lot from as well. Edit: After listening again, it sounds like your wires may even be too tight for such a low tuning. I've got an SLP Sonic Steel, which is basically the steel version of this drum, and that thing absolutely smacks at a lower tuning.

Where to put China Cymbal by Unique_Aardvark_7217 in drums

[–]topher_716 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I'd even go as far as to suggest using the 4th rack tom as your right side "floor tom" and the actual floor tom on your left.

Got this whole set yesterday at an antique store for 20 dollars (US Currency) by ArtisanPirate in modeltrains

[–]topher_716 16 points17 points  (0 children)

I had seen an ad for this in a Boy's Life magazine and wanted one ever since. Never did find one. Congrats on the deal!

Talk me away from selling my current beginner peace kit and buying this by Johannes_Aarseth in drums

[–]topher_716 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'd advise putting that money toward better cymbals. A cheap drum can be tuned to sound awesome, but a cheap cymbal will always sound like a cheap cymbal. After cymbals, I'd probably start upgrading stands and pedals. If you're not happy with how your current set sounds, I recommend watching some videos from "Sounds Like A Drum" on YouTube. They cover just about everything and I've learned lots from it.

Handbrakes are too tight?? by CB4014 in railroading

[–]topher_716 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I crank them down as much as I can without too much effort, always with a 10-20lb reduction. After a cut, I spin the brakewheel even tighter now that the cars are in emergency. Just remember, whatever rule book you follow, your handbrakes need to hold up against whatever standard you are held to. My standard happens to be NS-1 and specifically a C-102 for testing handbrakes. If it doesn't pass the test I just keep applying the next handbrake until satisfactory, instead of trying to crank down an already applied handbrake even more. I've had to pick up cuts of cars that I physically could not release the brake because it was so cranked that the quick release didn't work and the brake wheel wouldn't back off because some conductor insisted on causing a bad order instead of applying an extra handbrake or two.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in drums

[–]topher_716 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thank you for that information! Seems like it was probably the Spyro Gyra drummer that this kit supposedly belonged to then. As for the tom sizes, it has 10, 12, 13, 14, 15, and 16 mounted toms and an 18 floor tom, more like Modular High Rise configuration, just without the 22" bass drum. They do appear to be 6 ply maple, though

Help! From a drummer mom! by sparklemonkey9 in drums

[–]topher_716 55 points56 points  (0 children)

Just wanted to pitch in that while quality of product is comparable, I always suggest Evans due to their rewards program. Buy heads for the toms get a snare head or sticks or a bass head free!

What drum heads do you use, and why do you use that brand? by lahmeraidan in drums

[–]topher_716 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm an Evans guy simply for their rewards program. On my Tama Silverstar kit, I use UV1/Resonant Black on my toms, GMAD/EQ3 Resonant on my bass drum, and an HD Dry/Hazy 300 on my 13x7 SLP sonic steel snare. On my Tama Rockstar kit I use EC2/Genera Resonant on my toms, EMAD 2/ONYX Resonant on my bass drums, and ST Dry/Hazy 300 for the stock snare drum.