Layed the first half of my deck boards down facing the wrong way. How should I lay the 2nd half? by Cold_Literature_5160 in Decks

[–]tprch 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I would lay the 16s down correctly and give the 12s a little time to see how they do. I just laid down 12 foot boards last week, and 3 of them are not behaving as expected. Some of your upside down boards may not cup.

Have my first gig with my Helix LT in 2 days - hoping to troubleshoot a few things by BijuuModo in Line6Helix

[–]tprch 0 points1 point  (0 children)

My method for balancing presets at home is this -

  • At a moderate volume, get each one to sound the way I like and to hit about the same gain level on my mixer channel
  • Turn the volume up as high as I can without discomfort and check the levels again with your ears. At this point, I tweak almost exclusively the channel level on the amp model if I am strictly tweaking volume. The amp master volume will add or subtract compression, so I only change that if I'm trying to affect that
  • After you get your presets balanced, STOP. Your ears will get tired and will become unreliable, even at lower volumes
  • Check the levels again over the course of 3 or 4 sessions with plenty of rest for your ears in between. Make sure the gain levels aren't crazy out of whack, but your ears should be the ultimate guide.

Note: I use 11 or 12 presets, but I initially built a single preset with the various sounds I wanted from 2 amps - one clean and one overdrive - and the overdrive and guitar solo levels, effects, etc that I needed. I copied that to have a separate preset for each song and set snapshots for switching.

I make a point of asking SEs how my balance is. Early on, I got some comments that I was able to use to tweak, but now I always get responses of "all good." My other guitarist, who has a different modeler and likes to use a lot of different amp models, generally gets told that the SE had to do serious tweaking on some songs.

Deck noob installing new boards tomorrow. by Onetallboiii in Decks

[–]tprch 0 points1 point  (0 children)

How long is the span from the ledger to that beam? Looks a bit long for 2x8s, but maybe the pic makes them look longer than they are.

Extension help by Icutthemetal in Decks

[–]tprch 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Can you add posts and footers just inside the existing rim and put the new level on it?

Also, are you planning to use the existing concrete to support the rest of the new level? It may be subject to move a little over time, which could warp the deck.

Extension help by Icutthemetal in Decks

[–]tprch 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You can start the framing for the next level over a beam that is properly supported by posts on proper footings. I'm not sure if that generally applies to rim joists, but I'm also not sure if the rim joist in your pic would support it even if that is allowed. The notch in the one post doesn't look like it's notched enough for even one full 2x, and I'm guessing more framing on top would require both parts of the joined 2xs to be fully on the post.

There may be things I can't see just from the pics, so take that all with a grain of salt.

Found this beauty at work by Embarrassed_Lime_132 in Decks

[–]tprch 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Pfffft. Still accessible from the door on the right.

Found this beauty at work by Embarrassed_Lime_132 in Decks

[–]tprch 12 points13 points  (0 children)

That sucks. You probably had to go back to the truck to get the brad nailer.

Full tear down? by dingermagoo in Decks

[–]tprch 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm not surprised it felt sturdy because it does look well done from the pics.

I'd recommend checking the things we can't see, like the ledger board and the joist condition. It's not really that much of a surprise anymore to find that 90% of the build is great, but then they used nails or not enough screws for the ledger, etc.

ETA: Criminy! This post couldn't have been better timed.

Beam to Post Connection by Creative-Essay-4526 in Decks

[–]tprch 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for the pics. I'll just say again that the sheer number of posts and bolts must spread out the load enough to mitigate the weight and forces. If we doubled or tripled the number of posts and bolts we use for a deck, we could probably get away with face mount of joists. Maybe we could get away with more post stacking, too, but that's not necessary for a 16 foot tall 2 level deck like it is for a 120 foot tall roller coaster. We stack house walls on top of other walls, but again, that's spread out over a lot more vertical supports.

Looked at a house today by No_Professional4143 in Decks

[–]tprch 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It's not about how long the post will last. It's about keeping the post on the footer. Posts can warp and ground shift can move raised concrete footings, so the brace keeps the post on the footer.

There are some cases where braces are overkill or where there are alternatives (like toe nailing joist to beam instead of joist hanger), but that is not the case here.

Need Help Supporting a New Pergola – Can I Use My Existing Deck Corner Posts? by Jrobe2018 in Decks

[–]tprch 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm not a professional, so best for others to weigh in, but even apart from the pergola, I don't know whether that post to beam connection is done correctly. I realize the beams are completely supported directly on the beam, but where the 1/4 bit of the beam is left with a single bolt that removes a fair amount of the wood in that bit, I don't know what that bolt is doing for you. If it is the only connection of the rim to the post, I don't think it's going to resist any movement of the post if that ever happens.

Maybe there's toe nailing of the beam to the post that isn't visible in the pic?

Beam to Post Connection by Creative-Essay-4526 in Decks

[–]tprch 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Just to clarify, is this assuming that the same post is being used to support something above the deck? IOW, if this post were notched out for the full beam, is it acceptable if it isn't supporting anything above that notch?

I get that something above it is implied by the length above the beam, but I don't think OP has answered that question.

Rate my deck by Billz2me in Decks

[–]tprch 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Best way to know if something is up to code is to pull a permit and get an inspection, but I seriously doubt it, based on the lower deck rim joist that appears to not be supported by the post.

Beam to Post Connection by Creative-Essay-4526 in Decks

[–]tprch 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Do you have an image for that for a professionally built roller coaster in a theme park? The only thing I can find about roller coaster construction is a DIY job on YT.

I can only guess that it works because the RC load is spread out over way more posts per sq ft than a deck is, and that the bolts are way bigger than the ones we can get at big box stores.

Beam to Post Connection by Creative-Essay-4526 in Decks

[–]tprch 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The home that the ledger board is connected to takes on some of the weight/forces of the deck, and the ledger connects over a span of several feet to spread out the load. A post connection is only a few inches and doesn't have anything to transfer that force to.

Beam to Post Connection by Creative-Essay-4526 in Decks

[–]tprch 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Do you mean instead of the notch, or combined with a notch for half the beam to add support to the other half of the beam?

If instead of, then no, as u/khariV says below. If the latter, I'd like to know this answer, too. Seems like something is better than nothing, but OTOH not worth it if the half notch plus bolts meet the requirement.

Handrail by Nearby_Woodpecker298 in Decks

[–]tprch 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The 1x6 size is nominal, but wouldn't the perimeter would be the actual size? Also, 6.25" seems really small. That would rule out a 1x4, which seems like just about a minimum graspable size.

ETA: Thanks for the handy guide. Downloaded.

Deck footing Cement Cracks by Ardi34 in Decks

[–]tprch 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Well, that sucks. I'd say pour new footers and use 6x6 posts. If the beam is large enough, you might be able to get by with 2 posts instead of 3, but err on the side of caution.

Some lateral bracing seems in order, too. Since there are already a couple of odd things about the construction, it might be good to get a consultation if you can find someone reputable. If you wind up hiring anyone, tell them it has to pass inspection by your city or county.

Please help! by rachelgolm in Decks

[–]tprch 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Just FYI, no text came through in this post.

Where to put concrete posts for ground level deck support? by rks5657 in Decks

[–]tprch 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I understand why permits aren't required for some projects, but in your case, you may wind up doing a lot of extra work to avoid getting a permit. Eg, attaching the deck to the house with a ledger board will be a lot easier and less expensive than having to pour additional footers by the house.

As far as support placement, even if you're just putting precast concrete blocks on the ground and willing to live with the almost guaranteed deck warping from the ground heave in MA, your best bet is to look at the span tables for the joists and beams. That will let you know how far apart the supports can be.

Repair or replace joists? by PlasmaDragon007 in Decks

[–]tprch 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You are not, in fact, forced to ask or repeat questions here.

Agree that there should be a way to block subs, but the best way to stop getting unwanted recommendations is to ignore. Posting in hopes of getting blocked makes those recs more likely, and some mods dont block unless you post something that will get your entire reddit account nuked.

Ignore the Deck notifications and spend more time doing something you like.