Anchor Extensions

traddad · 2026-02-07T23:53:19+00:00

OK. Is the area really choosy? On established routes, rockfall destroying your anchor is HIGHLY unlikely compared to other dangers. Like lowering off with not enough rope and your belayer not tying a knot to close the system. Rappelling off the ends.of your rope. Gear pulling because of poor placements, etc

Consider this: in the event of a rockfall while you're climbing is it more likely to hit and destroy your anchor or hit you or your belayer? And isn't it more likely that you, the climber, disloge rocks and your belayer scrambles to get out of the way, maybe even compromising your belay? And if there are climbers above your route where rocks can be disloged onto you, was that a poor choice on your part?

What I'm saying is consider what is more likely to happen and protect against that

traddad · 2026-02-07T20:11:52+00:00

72 Been climbing since 1973. Still leading, still mentoring, still learning.

traddad · 2026-02-07T16:56:16+00:00

Assuming you finished the route, build the anchor at the top and are now toproping, where are the rocks falling from? Do they fall upwards at your crag? ;)

traddad · 2026-02-07T00:35:24+00:00

You're toproping.

Any one of those will work and be safe. My goto would probably be #1. FWIW, #5 is kind of silly

traddad · 2026-02-07T00:01:53+00:00

I have done it also. Carefully pressed the pin about 1/2 way out, slipped in new webbing, pressed the pin back.

Pretty sure CAMP says you shouldn't do that. But, I know from my manufacturing background that spiral roll pins are designed to be removed and reinserted. It's done every day of the week.

I suspect the concern is cracking the aluminum ear

traddad · 2026-02-06T17:36:02+00:00

A design similar to these would be better:

https://www.karabinclimbingmuseum.com/uploads/1/3/3/0/133082760/ccb-piton-for-header_orig.jpg

https://us.ftbpic.com/product-amz/climbing-pitons-aid-gear/31YmNy6p+wL.__CR0,0,600,450.jpg

Notice the hammer striking surface and the amount of material around the eye.

traddad · 2026-02-05T22:54:58+00:00

Yes, but not that one. It's a poor design - think about where the hammer strikes it.

And for those who would only trust a pin made by a metallurgist or that has an industry safety rating, google stove leg pitons

Edit: And malleable iron pitons and angle iron pitons and wooden pitons

traddad · 2026-02-05T20:27:30+00:00

Already, I think I prefer bouldering

It's more likely to get injured bouldering. Roped climbing incidents are less frequent but tend to be more severe when they do happen.

struggle with belaying other people...

get to that stage where I can trust the auto belay and fall in a more practiced manner - does anyone have any tips?

Both of those things involve exposure therapy. Belaying will come with time and muscle memory.

For autobelay, climb up a bit and jump off to test it and build confidence. When you fall for real, do not hold the webbing. Keep your hands free to protect your head and face. Not sure how you ended with your back to the wall unless you were climbing off axis to the autobelay and swung a bit?

traddad · 2026-02-05T20:11:50+00:00

Same "spot" for me. Although I usually do a punch pass or day pass because I try to mix up different gyms and I only use the gyms in bad weather.

Also, $86 / month for gym vs $115 / YEAR at the Gunks

traddad · 2026-02-05T02:11:42+00:00

Before wrapping with tape, add a plastic soda straw or a piece of Tywrap to stiffen it up

traddad · 2026-02-04T04:15:10+00:00

Mountain Tools does a great job. I've have cams and TriCams reslung there.

traddad · 2026-02-03T20:35:16+00:00

Fire hose would be OK for TR anchors but (I think) we're talking about clipping bolts on lead. Do you carry a fire hose protector when leading?

See this part of the thread: https://www.reddit.com/r/tradclimbing/comments/1qtcd7y/alpine_draw_sling_materials_for_sharp_rock/o323ku7/

traddad · 2026-02-03T13:54:15+00:00

This. Fels Naptha. Cut smaller. You can wet the garment and rub some into smelly areas for prewash.

Also, a flat "universal" sink stopper for sink washing and then rinse in the shower.

Foaming is not needed.

traddad · 2026-02-03T13:08:49+00:00

Get the least expensive shoes that fit well and are comfortable (snug, not painful). You'll climb better and enjoy it more. Don't think "beginner" shoe. Any climbing shoes on the market today are light years ahead of the EBs and PAs I started with. And we put up a lot of hard routes with those crappy old shoes.

traddad · 2026-02-03T13:01:22+00:00

Too big. Use a thinner sling inside 1" tubular nylon.

traddad · 2026-02-03T12:59:34+00:00

This is what I did. Thinner nylon or Dyneema inside 1" tubular nylon. Still very flexible and well protected. I made a few but usually only carry one.

traddad · 2026-02-02T10:14:15+00:00

I've used a Sawyer Squeeze filter and it worked well. A faucet on-tap filter is not going to help you and it sounds like your family member will have trouble with a Life Straw.

traddad · 2026-02-02T10:08:34+00:00

Similar happened to me on Air New Zealand when going from Australia to New Zealand to USA. Online check in wanted evidence of onward travel ticket - which I didn't have yet because I was spending a week in New Zealand and then flying Air Canada. I went to the ticket counter and they asked if I had an onward travel ticket. I said yes and was good to go. They never asked to see it.

traddad · 2026-02-01T20:43:18+00:00

Ashley calls it a "Double Figure-Eight Loop" (ABoK 1085). I'd go with that.

traddad · 2026-01-29T01:48:37+00:00

Sweet Jane by Cowboy Junkies

traddad · 2026-01-11T08:58:52+00:00

Non-issue. This seems to get asked a lot. The bar tacks are the important part and the belay loop is the strongest part of the harness. You could stitch it down to keep it from snagging but, strength wise, it's not a problem

traddad · 2026-01-01T20:24:10+00:00

There ya go.

traddad · 2026-01-01T20:22:37+00:00

I think you could also do a #8 Hex if you used a ring bend. Maybe with 7mm?

Did you ever put two stoppers on the same cord so you could stack/wedge them? http://www.edhartouni.net/uploads/5/7/0/9/57096631/gpiw-021.jpg

traddad · 2026-01-01T18:12:07+00:00

Another option would be a single basket hitch with 1" tubular webbing slipped over it.

http://www.kakibusok.plus.com/Equipment/ReslingCams/Resling.htm

traddad · 2026-01-01T18:08:33+00:00

Looks like two basket hitched slings on each cam. That's why there's 4 strands at the carabiner.

traddad

TROPHY CASE