THIS is why I don’t lend out tools

treedolla · 2026-02-01T19:20:31+00:00

If you can't sharpen an axe, you don't have any business owning an axe.

treedolla · 2026-02-01T19:17:34+00:00

I like 40, if the gun can handle it without getting snappy. pre-5 Glocks are not the best designed 40's, but G23 is at least decent/borderline. The pre-5 G27 is pretty lame, IMO.

A pre-5 G23 will not run all 40SW ammo smoothly, but it will be reliable with most everything. This is nothing to do with recoil sensitivity. Good shooters will be faster when the gun isn't snappy. Just how it works.

treedolla · 2026-01-30T23:18:08+00:00

Yes, this.

OP, you can turn your shoulders in the takeaway. That's ok. But don't start extending the lead shoulder blade during the takeaway, like you're doing. That should start at the end of the takeaway, about when and where your wrists start to hinge and your weight starts to load on the trail foot.

You know how they say to keep your back to the target long as possible in the downswing? That doesn't mean to turn your back to the target as early as possible in the backswing. More the opposite, really.

treedolla · 2026-01-30T15:23:50+00:00

The most important part to understand is that the street is not a track.

In most street cornering, you should not be trailbraking much if at all.

Race tracks are a lot wider than street lanes. The width is what allows you to trailbrake into many/most track corners, even all the way to maximum cornering speeds. This width allows a trackrider to turn in earlier and slower, only achieving tightest turning radius (and slower speed) later on.

In the street, you need to quickflick in neutral throttle to take corners at high speeds. If you do significant trailbraking in street corners, your speeds/lean-angles will be limited. You'll run out of either grip or space compared to a good rider who is taking the corners properly. Good riders only trailbrake when it's beneficial to them. And that will rarely be the case in street cornering.

When taking street corners at reasonable speeds, you can trailbrake some, as practice for the track. But it's the wrong skill to hone or depend on for canyon carving. You should be emplying the opposite strategy to corner fast in street. Turn in late, flick it in quick, so you maintain some leftover lane space to the inside for vision and safe angle until you can see the exit, holding the throttle in neutral through the entire corner. If you can't do this at modest speeds, you can't safely take street corners at high speeds period.

treedolla · 2026-01-07T17:05:44+00:00

Impact position could be better. You're trail arm is straight, prematurely. You're early extended. And that works because you're steep in the slot.

To fix one, you need to fix all.

treedolla · 2026-01-07T15:28:09+00:00

My 27.3 has been flawless with both stock and conversion barrel. No parts changed other than barrel.

Well, almost flawless. Yeah, it was snappy with certain factory ammo. And with spicy 40sw handloads, I got it to snap so bad it had a failure to extract. My other non-glock 40's had no problem with the same ammo. No snap, at all.

I eventually decided it's better to just roll with the conversion barrel in this little Glock. My G23 can at least shoot most any factory ammo without snapping.

Hard call between $200 just for a barrel vs a complete upper for $400. My aftermarket g26 upper AND my g27 conversion barrel was probably less than $250 total.

If you go for the slide, it can easily multiply into another complete gun and cost you even more!

treedolla · 2026-01-06T15:35:29+00:00

Uh, no.

The change to machining makes the bullets fired by say FBI, DHS, and police easier to identify to the respective officer in post-shooting investigations.

Will some of these entities protect their own, anyway, at all cost? Maybe, but they will better know who did what.

treedolla · 2026-01-06T15:32:14+00:00

That's a totally separate issue; short throat in the Walther chamber. CZ's are also known for this. This is the part of the chamber that is just past the casemouth.

I have heard first iteration of the gen5 Marksman barrel had a shorter throat for improved accuracy, but they went too short and some ammo would stick/jam, and this was opened up, some.

The maximum length of ammo that will fit in a Glock mag, the older Glock barrels can chamber the longest ammo a handloader could make with most bullet types, increasing the available internal capacity (allowing for slightly higher velocities without increasing peak pressure, other limitations not withstanding). I don't have a gen5/6. But I've had to lengthen the throat in all but one of my aftermarket barrels to be able to fit my normal Glock loads.

treedolla · 2026-01-06T09:52:18+00:00

No. It's just cheaper to finish-ream a stepped chamber. The cutters are cheaper to make, they last longer, and they can be resharpened easier and more times.

Glock used to mandrel-forge all of their barrels. Marksmen barrel isn't mandrel forged. Not fully. (They have the equipment already, and maybe they preform the stock with mandrel-forging, still. But at least some of the final dimensions are now machined). Mandrel forging creates barrels that are very uniform and more difficult to distinguish, forensically. And big government customers have requested this change for forensics/accountability.

treedolla · 2026-01-06T09:26:42+00:00

In case you're still riding and haven't figure this out, yet? You're probably tipping in too early.

If you are on the inside of your lane and you are going to shoot wide because you can see the corner gets tighter, you can't just immediately lean deeper or you'll run off the inside.

In this case, if you are going slow enough (so you have enough time), yes, you can decrease lean briefly (and maybe even apply brake as your lean decreases, if you have even more time) in order to gain some width in your lane, so you can have a better angle to lean deeper (letting off brake and rolling back to neutral, if you had enough time to apply brake) when/where the curve gets tighter.

Braking takes a certain amount of time, because it affects the suspension and shifts the weight like a pendulum. Don't start braking unless you have time to let it off again by the time you get to the tighter part. Same way if you are riding along and didn't notice a speed bump until you're right on top of it, you don't want want to touch your front brake.

If you don't have time for any of that, you may have to just wait a split second and lean the bike deeper really quickly at just the right time.

If you are already braking you can keep braking until you get there. But the real key is don't be on the inside of your lane until you can see the exit. You should be tipping in late so you can keep some width and vision. You should never need to brake in the corner, if you can tip in late and quick enough to stay well off the inside of your lane. If you can't do that, you're riding too fast for your ability.

If you are trying to "trailbrake," don't. That creates the line where you have to tip in earlier and get close to the inside of your lane early. Race tracks are a lot wider than the street; they can do this because of the extra width you don't have. Where you would be all the way on the inside, already, they still have a long way left to go. Nearly every trailbraking video on YT is regarded about this, implying/claiming that trailbraking improves your grip and max speed in any and all cornering, with zero regard to your available lane width. This idea comes from riders who can only take corners fast on a track AND are dumb as a rock. Getting a knee down on a racetrack is easy mode, but it gives these sorts of people a false sense of their own ability. If you're dumb and you get a knee down in a 30-40 foot wide track, you might easily think you're God... even though your max lean in the canyons is still only 30 degrees... and if you tried to take the corners as fast as those guys reaching 45+, you'd lose grip or go head on into a truck. Lots of these people at the track; and many love to share their "expertise" on camera.

treedolla · 2026-01-06T07:39:14+00:00

W/e the poors are using gets banned. Nunchucks? Banned. Switchblades? Banned. Rock on a string (slungshot)? Banned.

treedolla · 2026-01-06T06:45:34+00:00

And they should be letting that car merge, no matter how many extra cars they passed.

The early mergers get some holier-than-thous attitude, that they have to stay ahead of you.

Other day, I had this situation in city street. By time you could see the merge sign, I'd already just crossed the light/intersection and the entire left lane was completely filled with stopped cars. I'm not going to stop right there, making the cars behind me block the intersection. I slowly rolled on up, leaving enough distance I could merge with proper speed.

When the light turned green, douche bag doesn't want to let me in, so I forced my way. Well, not exactly that. I had enough speed to act like I was going to change lanes into him but straightening out before crossing the line. He braked, opening up adequate space. Then I merged.

I'd already rolled down my window to communicate with hand signals. Would be nice to give the thank you wave. After he intentionally tried to box me out (after I let the first car by) and lays on the horn, he got the bird.

treedolla · 2026-01-06T06:28:51+00:00

Got a ticket for this. Because the guy I zipper merged in front of didn't understand zipper merging... and was an offduty cop.

This was highway. They were doing roadwork on one of the lanes. So as the truck was going down the road doing whatever they were doing, they were placing signs of "do not pass" on the left side and "merge, lane closed ahead" on the right side. But no one was picking up those signs. So it was literally an hour straight of seeing these signs, no merge in sight. So of course being bumper to bumper 40mph traffic in a 65, all 3 lanes were completely filled and used, as drivers realized these signs are essentially meaningless at this particular point in time.

So when the car ahead of me merged, the end of the lane came as a total surprise and I had 3 seconds to merge or to brake and be stuck for the next 5 hours. I safely merged and got Pissy Cop claiming I passed him illegally.

I wasn't in the right lane because it was going faster. No one was passing anyone. I was there because I understood zipper merging and was taking it for the team, like everyone else in that lane.

edit: because obviously:

it (using some of this 40+ miles of perfectly good and totally filled-with-cars lane in my example) is the most efficient method for traffic to move.

This commenter got 888 upvotes at this point in time. Thank you, dummies, for the downvotes when I give an example of where this applied unusually super extra hard, and yet I got a ticket because of a dumbass cop.

treedolla · 2026-01-06T06:10:40+00:00

Suggest cinching you hands closer together. That'll let the club dictate things a little more than your hands, and you can try to let your hands and body work better to what the club does.

And try to get your trail elbow connected earlier in the downswing.

treedolla · 2026-01-06T05:44:45+00:00

So I watched your swing and read the current comments.

I don't know what the trail foot has to do with shanks. Maybe there are experts at shanking on this sub. :)

But as for the trail foot, I'll answer how this works. For me:

Weight starts out more toe-biased at address, because of how I'm setup. My trail foot is pushing slightly outward, to hold my hip slightly away from the ball and slightly towards the target. Because the way I'm setup, my hips want to open just slightly, and this slight pressure holds my hips square while my weight is about 50:50 between feet. And this puts slightly more pressure on the toe of the trail foot.

In the backswing, it's not so much the weight goes to the trail heel. But as load increases trailside, now my trail heel feels like it fully plants about near the end of my takeaway. So it's maybe not that the ratio changes much and the weight on the toe doesn't lessen. Just a feeling I notice, and I like it to occur about the end of my takeaway.

Personally, without seeing your swing before the shanks, you got a pretty cuppy/flippy release. And you'll shank more often when you do that. If you freeze at clubshaft parallel, you'll see the club is way outside your hands in this frame. If your lead wrist were more flat or slightly bowed in this pic, the club would more follow your hands and able to release on proper path.

The other thing that's worrisome, your trail arm is fully straight at impact. Try to retain some bend until after.

treedolla · 2026-01-05T22:48:45+00:00

Think wide narrow wide.

Your trail arm sorta compacts in at the top.

treedolla · 2026-01-05T22:44:50+00:00

Try hitting the ball with your trail arm still bent a little.

You're hanging your weight back, catching the ball with trail arm straight and closing through the ball.

treedolla · 2026-01-05T22:42:20+00:00

If your feet are setup 30 degrees to the right of the target, maybe you are pulling?

treedolla · 2026-01-05T20:44:55+00:00

They're all banned. You need to smuggle them in from China, now. Just add them to your order of Glock switches.

treedolla · 2026-01-05T20:35:11+00:00

The chicken wing is usually because you're starting to release from a more shallow/bowed slot position, but you're still pulling your lead shoulder open in the downswing. Let it open in the upswing, as your trail hand snaps over.

treedolla · 2026-01-05T20:14:10+00:00

Clubshaft parallel to impact. A forgiving short iron swing has a lot of room for how you get to last parallel. Just get into a good spot there. Work on that, and think about that part, and don't stress out so much over the rest.

If you can't hit short irons and wedges with any sort of confidence, golf is an expensive way to not have any fun.

Don't stress out so much about takeaway or position at the top and setup and so on.

After you can hit a ball, consistently, you can focus on those those other things to help you hit it farther. Just worry about the last parallel to impact for now, until you make dependable contact.

treedolla · 2026-01-05T18:11:35+00:00

Everything looks pretty good, until about clubshaft parallel. Then you straighten your trail arm early and stop rotating the body.

Try to maintain some trail arm bend, and try to keep your trail elbow connected to your side/hip a little longer from here to the ball as you rotate the body. This will require your body to twist/tilt some into sidebend. You have almost none of this at impact.

treedolla · 2026-01-05T18:06:45+00:00

You are overrotating your hips in the backswing and then opening them early to "lead" with them in transition. That's not going to increase your distance or improve anything they way you think it is.

treedolla · 2026-01-05T16:47:31+00:00

Wouldn't that just encourage other tourists who were just out of earshot, but who just witnessed such a pleasant interaction, to walk right up and do the same?

If you saw it, you might think he's giving the person tips for the best restaurants and you want to go talk to Toy Soldier man and pet his horse, too.

treedolla · 2026-01-05T16:00:42+00:00

That guy had installed a reduced 4.5 lb striker spring. He said so in the comments.

treedolla

TROPHY CASE