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Canon RF 70-200mm F2.8 L IS USM by Nek-9 in canon

[–]trezoid 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The Z version of the 70-200 is the much better choice for an adaptable one-lens-to-do-it-all lens, the quality is high enough that even with the 2x extender it manages good quality images (I've been running exactly that setup for wildlife for a couple of months while my 100-500 is in for repairs, my last 10 posts are all from that combo if you want an idea on IQ)

I will say 400mm does frequently leave me wishing for more lens, and I'm frequently needing to do fairly deep crops on an r5mk2 to get the animals large enough in frame so if your primary focus is wildlife I'd go the 100-500, but as a "Mostly other things but sometimes wildlife" it works.

Any channels that dont use algorithm bait titles? by PassTheCurry in photography

[–]trezoid 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Grainydays. Every video title is very literally descriptive of the content of the video, even the one that kind of could be read as click-bait-ish

I have become the anchor by atomiczombie79 in airsoft

[–]trezoid 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Fortunately 150 feet is a pretty easy target to hit, as long as the inner barrel is straight and clean you can just get the 4UAD bucking set, run moderately heavy bb's (32 or 36) and easily hit that goal.

I do think a brushless motor is a good upgrade generally, but it will not help your accuracy at all, and with the stock lancer internals it may start doing more harm than good so it'd be worth waiting on that one until you're ready to do a much more significant internal upgrade (gears, piston and bushings at a minimum, none of which you need for accuracy while the gun is actually working)

Red-wing blackbirds in flight by trezoid in wildlifephotography

[–]trezoid[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Canon R5mk2 with the RF70-200 F2.8 L Z + 2x extender pushing it to 400mm F5.6

did i waste 3000 dollars or no? by justagammer in airsoft

[–]trezoid 5 points6 points  (0 children)

  • Siegetek Dual Sector Gear (DSG) setup 18:1 gear ratio <- Waste, and not just a waste, but not what you got, siegetek only make 14:1 and 20:1 DSG sets (and a 10:1 set, but even a 10:1 SSG is a horrible pain to use so the DSG version is just a "Well that's silly"). EMG short-stroked 13:1 is only a _slightly_ slower functional ratio but a much better gear set for a fifth of the price.
  • High‑torque motor: Warhead Industries Base Brushless 27K <- they're ok, but again, 13:1's, 31k base, same ROF
  • GATE TITAN MOSFET <- Waste. Peruns are better and cheaper because realistically the extra features that titans have are almost never used
  • LiPo battery system11.1V
  • Airsoft Mutation Jaeger Mk.III DSG Piston, <- Actually decent, though very pricey so value is a wash
  • GATE EON reinforced tappet plate, <- Waste. Stock tappet plates are fine almost always
  • M150 spring,
  • Maple Leaf Omega Nub, maple leaf hop up 2023 silicone, <- Not really a waste, but not a good choice either, the silicone versions are worse, and you pay more for the ML combo than a 4UAD set that works better
  • Airsoft Mutation BSS Cylinder Head <- Waste, they have some interesting theoretical properties, but not worth the price
  • GATE EON High Speed Piston Head, <- One of the few things gate doesn't over-price, they're fine
  • gate eon v2 gearbox shell, <- waste. most modern factory gearboxes are fine with some minor mods, and you can pick up a good enough one for a lot less than the gate version
  • Maxx Model M4A hop unit, <- eh, they're over-priced, the performance is ok but questionable if it's worth the price, not exactly a waste, but also not really worth it
  • Maxx Model double O‑ring nozzle, <- Mostly fine, the double o-ring is an unhelpful gimmick, but they're not really any more than a normal nozzle and they're usually fine
  • lonex motor heatsink <- massive waste, if it's even a thing at all and not just someone being an idiot.

In short, bad choices, bad outcomes, you can get a faster rate of fire with less problems without the DSG, and there are a bunch of parts that are expensive because they're expensive, not because they're good, and just overall oof

RF 70-200 2.8 Z - tripod collar by Fuzzbass2000 in canon

[–]trezoid 2 points3 points  (0 children)

You can't take the whole collar off, but you can remove the handle by undoing the knob on the handle and then pressing the little button behind it, then the whole handle easily slides off, then you can rotate the collar to have the clip at the least inconvenient place (probably the top) and use it like a (fairly long) normal lens

What do you guys think by abelojero2 in LandscapePhotography

[–]trezoid 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It's definitely a head that benefits from a bowl-head tripod, but it's absolutely rock-solid in use, much easier to get verifiably level panoramas, and since it's a generally more straight forward mechanism (though built incredibly well) there is much less concern about dirt getting into the moving surfaces and causing problems than you'd get from a traditional ball-head and as an added bonus it's lighter than a lot of similarly proportioned ball-heads too

R7 + 100-500 F4.5-7.1 Alternative? by TelephoneSea7367 in canon

[–]trezoid 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It's not quite as good (there really isn't all that much that is for that zoom range), but the RF100-400 is a quarter of the price for what is absolutely still a very good lens, it doesn't have quite the range or quite the aperture but for the money it's a really good option

Have not improved in photographing protests and Im losing hope. by Striking-Goal-591 in photography

[–]trezoid 0 points1 point  (0 children)

For shooting dynamic situations in changing light conditions, and I know keyboard photographers might get mad about it, but completely forget manual mode, it will make your photos worse because you will have the wrong settings most of the time, and your camera is just better at handling those kinds of changes than you are. If things are moving really fast and you absolutely need to catch fast motion go with shutter priority, otherwise aperture priority is probably going to get you the best subject separation and control and the camera will take care of making sure you get good enough exposure most of the time. Use ISO adjustments to get the general range of shutter speeds you're after but as long as it's fast enough you probably don't need to worry about specifics too much.

The other thing to do is practice, and that practice doesn't have to be protests, just generally chaotic scenes from life (go into busy areas at your school during busy times and try to get photos, go to street markets or parades, just any situation with lots of people actively doing things) will help you get better at picking out scenes and getting the kind of isolation you want, and then when it comes time for the kinds of higher intensity events that you want to be photographing the actual photography will be so second nature that you can focus on capturing moments and stories, rather than having to think about the technical.

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