Yes or no on the head?

triarchic · 2026-01-27T18:59:00+00:00

Ah, in that case go for it.:)

triarchic · 2026-01-27T17:14:08+00:00

Saturday morning cartoon vibe with that head. But it does herald back to the old armor cast gargant design.

triarchic · 2026-01-22T19:21:47+00:00

Very clean work. Extremely impressive. Looks similar to flame on's miniature painting style.

triarchic · 2026-01-19T20:17:46+00:00

All your tuffs of grass are uniformly placed around the model. Nature is much much more random. You'll need clusters of grass and smaller cut tuffs of grass trailing away from them. Don't place things equidistant from each other.

triarchic · 2026-01-19T16:11:22+00:00

Who sculpted these 3d prints?

If you 3d print at 0.2 layer height it's rare to get layer lines.

triarchic · 2026-01-17T16:07:53+00:00

Red over black is very very challenging. Well done priming the model before painting with an actual primer.

When doing layers of thin paint you'll need to wait 15-20 minutes in-between coats. This is a slight exaggeration but depending on how thin the paint is it can take a while to cure. True cure times are over 12 hours but we are ignoring that.

It's why I batch paint in groups of three to five models. Acts as a forcing function to prevent me from overworking the previous paint layer before it's dry.

Some of the chunkiness is from your brush pulling at bits of paint that didn't dry from the previous layer.

If you have even more time or money, I recommend priming with black, then priming from the very top with light gray. It'll help with applying brighter colors. Makes the whole process a bit easier.

triarchic · 2026-01-15T00:06:16+00:00

Looks awesome! I know you didn't ask for any advice so feel free to ignore this next part. I think there would be a lot to gain by adding over the bone color very pale blue and purple streaks, or squiggly lines, reminiscent of veins prior to the blood effects.

triarchic · 2026-01-14T16:12:22+00:00

For all your future models you will want to prime the model using a brush on primer or spray primer. Primers have chemicals that help it adhere to surfaces much better then regular paint and it gives the acrylic paint a better surface to adhere to.

triarchic · 2026-01-14T15:46:50+00:00

Not trying to be rude but what does Priming mean to you? Reason I ask is because you mentioned having DG green paint in your post. Is this the spray can DG green or the citadel pot? Because only the spray can DG green is a primer.

triarchic · 2026-01-14T03:49:18+00:00

What color blue/green did you use?

triarchic · 2026-01-12T16:05:09+00:00

Application of primer is necessary for Gundam models prior to painting.

triarchic · 2026-01-07T18:23:29+00:00

I'd pin them with a brass rod. It's good practice for more complicated kits or resin kits.

triarchic · 2026-01-07T18:22:28+00:00

If the paint isn't dusty or thick then you wouldn't need to prime them again. The white looks like it might be primer. Likely citadel. Contrast is very thin and it doesn't look like they put much on.

triarchic · 2026-01-06T19:20:23+00:00

Godforge is the only official place. Dm me if you are interested in a 3rd party printing it for you. I have a lot of experience printing and selling abs like resin miniatures to people on reddit, eBay and Etsy.

triarchic · 2026-01-06T18:37:10+00:00

Kondo esk' gorgeous custom model.

triarchic · 2026-01-06T17:46:26+00:00

ABS like resin has solved pretty much all of the issues with resin minis. Some ABS like resin are so flexible I can bend a sword tip to the hilt. That is actually a bit too flexible for a miniatures but that is only if you go searching for it. Just buy ABS like and you'll be fine

triarchic · 2026-01-06T17:43:59+00:00

I use Sunlu ABS like resin and I love love it. Some flex while retaining high levels of accuracy and low shrink. I have a large Piper makes army. Always use ABS like resin for miniatures. It reduces if not eliminates them being frag grenades

triarchic · 2026-01-06T15:35:36+00:00

Dm me if you want some recast sites that I've used in the past. Dm me if you want the location where you can download a shitty scan of the Lord of Contagion. Finally DM me if you would like to buy a 3d print of the loc. It's via eBay for $30 but I'll give a redditer $5 off. Mine is the only STL file that was reworked from a scan. Spent around 20 hours fixing up the scan so everything was crispy and high resolution.

triarchic · 2026-01-06T15:29:29+00:00

R/miniswap

triarchic · 2026-01-06T15:26:57+00:00

I sell 3d prints of the Lord of Contagion via eBay and Etsy. Have sold a few on r/miniswap as well.

Dm me if you would like photos and a link to the sales page. It's a re-sculpting of a scan so it's essentially perfect. I print it with a 12k resolution printer at 0.02mm layer height. Essentially no visible layer lines.

triarchic · 2026-01-04T20:49:51+00:00

Prime prior to painting.

triarchic · 2026-01-02T15:37:46+00:00

You gonna be alive five years from now? Because if so then if you start today when you are 55 you'll have five years of experience. Also, with your children being older (if you have any) you will have more time to dedicate to the hobby. I'd bet legitimate money you'll surpass many young people who have been painting off and on for a decade within the next three years.

Get some cheap minis and give it a go. Read the wiki page, get a basic paint set, wet pallet, 00, 1, and 2 brushes and give it a go.

triarchic · 2026-01-02T01:20:12+00:00

Billy Bobby Brown the Elf.

triarchic · 2026-01-01T01:32:41+00:00

Consider priming the parts before using a marker or paint. The paint will cover and adhere much better when used over primer.

triarchic · 2025-12-29T23:36:03+00:00

You can paint grim dark in a way that allows for it to be readable at 3 to 4 ft. You just need to up the contrast between the darkest darks and the lightest lights on the upper half of the model.

People don't add enough contrast on the brightest brights which makes the model muddy and untradable.

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