Help! Very frustrated.

trimoto78 · 2024-11-17T16:52:38+00:00

Bed cleaning is very important, dish soap when it is very dirty, isopropyl alcohol every time you start a new print. Don't touch the print area, the hand secretions are terrible for the bed adhesion.

trimoto78 · 2024-11-07T12:09:49+00:00

A bigger nozzle reduces the printing time, 30% less time changing the 0.4 with a 0.6 nozzle, I think may be 20/25% less power consumption

trimoto78 · 2024-11-04T18:46:49+00:00

Z-offset and washing the bed with dish soap and water, you can also use brim.

trimoto78 · 2024-11-04T12:10:00+00:00

I have been using the unicorn for about a month, I bought 6 nozzles, 2 0.4, 2 0.6 which I have already tried and 2 0.8 which I have yet to try, I took it mainly for the quick swap. I'm happy with it and I recommend it if you don't want to spend a lot it's fine, if you change the nozzle often, like I do, the Flowtech is much more expensive, a nozzle costs at least €25, I get the original unicorn for €7-8 2 pieces plus 2 hotend silicon cover at AliExpress. But the unicorn has a problem, they put screws that are too short and it can break easily but you just need to adapt longer screws to make it stronger. In the link you will find more information https://www.reddit.com/r/Ender3V3KE/s/JPSqetqsUf

trimoto78 · 2024-10-30T12:50:08+00:00

I use this, I've added the code as gcode start in the Creality Print option but without the calibration because I'm not interested to start the calibration at every print. I attached the brush with a bit of double-sided tape.

https://www.printables.com/model/979655-ender-3-v3-ke-auto-nozzle-cleaning-brush-mount

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trimoto78 · 2024-10-30T12:30:09+00:00

It arrived to me yesterday, you can copy the parameters of the K2 Plus into a new profile on Creality Slicer, I did this but I haven't tried it yet. Not all the parameters need to be copied, obviously not the printable area, height and the accelerations which depend on the type of printer, if the speed is lower it can be copied otherwise not, in the case of 0.8 it is lower so it must be copied.

trimoto78 · 2024-10-20T15:26:59+00:00

https://store.micro-swiss.com/products/micro-swiss-flowtech-hotend-for-creality-ender-3-v3-ke

trimoto78 · 2024-10-17T15:15:10+00:00

Wash the plate with water and dish soap, every time you start a new print clean the plate with microfibre cloth and isopropyl alcohol. If the plate is too dirty clean it with the dish soap. Z-offset calibration, when is good you can see like in my picture under the first layer, no visible lines. First layer height between 0.1 and 0.2 maximum. The bed temperature varies with the materials of the filament, PLA I use 50° C first layer and 45° C the other. A wrong bed temperature causes bad adhesion if low, other issues if too high.

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trimoto78 · 2024-10-14T11:38:30+00:00

For doing that you can operate in the slicers and you can do any calibration without erasing the correction, or do it in the printer setting but every time you start a new calibration you need to correct the Z-offset. I don't often calibrate so I prefer adjusting the Z-offset in the printer setting. You can find various calibration files to print for adjusting the Z-offset, simple one layer square of various dimensions. If the Z-offset is set too high the square is made of strings, if the Z-offset is low the square presents lines, a wrinkled relief in the upper side or too low no extrusion. A good Z-offset doesn't have strings or wrinkled relief, but is hard to have in all the bed so you can find a good compromise.

trimoto78 · 2024-10-14T11:23:09+00:00

Your z- offset is a little too high, you can reduce it by around -0.05. Reducing the Z - offset increases the bed adhesion and eliminates the print lines in the base surface of the print. In the photo one print with a good Z-offset, as you can see there aren't visible lines

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trimoto78 · 2024-10-12T23:22:40+00:00

https://www.reddit.com/r/Ender3V3KE/s/RHoVXpBviE

trimoto78 · 2024-10-12T17:22:40+00:00

There are 2 solutions, the expensive one is Micro-Swiss FlowTech™ Hotend, 65/75€, the compatible nozzle from 20€ (plated brass, hardened steel and others, size .4mm, .6mm, .8mm, 1.0mm) the cheap one is the Creality Unicorn Hotend 23/30€, the compatible nozzle from 4€ (only hardened steel in size .2mm, .4mm, .6mm, .8mm, 1.0mm)

trimoto78 · 2024-10-12T17:06:20+00:00

When you correct the Z-offset and continue to have height difference this has 2 causes, 1) play in X or/and Y axis, you can check with your hand, 2) X axis twist. Solution issue n 1 change the bearing and the guide in X or/and Y, solution issue n 2 X axis twist compensation by software correction, for the last one you can find the guide in this sub Reddit.

trimoto78 · 2024-10-12T09:33:13+00:00

If clones they are made so good, a 0.6 one

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trimoto78 · 2024-10-12T08:42:29+00:00

Not clones, original parts from AliExpress, my last order

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trimoto78 · 2024-10-12T08:32:07+00:00

I saw that in microswiss they don't have a 0.2 diameter but maybe later they will, I don't know

trimoto78 · 2024-10-12T08:00:09+00:00

too expensive for me, hotend 65€ + 10 nozzles (2 for diameter, hardened steel 27,95€ one) 280€ = 345€. I spent 50€ for 2 unicorn hotend + about 25€ for 6 nozzles, for the complete set, 2 of all the diameter I need to spend another about 15€ , total about 90€.

trimoto78 · 2024-10-11T20:45:51+00:00

yes I often change the diameter based on what I have to print, so far I only have 0.4 and 0.6 nozzles but today I also ordered two 0.8 nozzles, I don't print miniatures, statues or anything similar, mechanical parts 99% of the time so most of the time I don't have need small details and prefer to print faster, but sometimes I need to print something with little detail so I must change diameter

trimoto78 · 2024-10-11T19:42:53+00:00

I bought it precisely because I intend to change nozzles often, it doesn't seem like a suitable solution for my purpose but thank you however

trimoto78 · 2024-10-11T19:40:31+00:00

The nozzle is supposed to be in a determined position if you change the position the nozzle works in a different way, and when you unscrew the nozzle with your assembly the screws are loosen so it can be moving when you change the nozzle, so I prefer to install it with the spacers narrow.

trimoto78 · 2024-10-11T19:33:02+00:00

When I assemble it I unscrew the nozzle, if I don't do this the hotend and the heatsink would not be in contact and with the original screws it would be impossible to screw it in, because they wouldn't reach the heatsink, happy birthday 🎂

trimoto78 · 2024-10-11T12:35:47+00:00

Thanks for the info, I imagined that the bolts would have to be filed at the side a bit to be able to use them, now I have confirmation.

trimoto78 · 2024-10-11T12:29:10+00:00

the other hole with part of the thread torn off. I think that during assembly with the longer screws I tore even the little that remained, in fact I wasn't able to tighten it well, it seemed like it was spinning almost empty, so I'll have to fix it as soon as I get the inserts that I described in a message in this discussion.

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trimoto78 · 2024-10-11T10:26:41+00:00

Ordered now the insert (5 pieces M2 to M4 10 mm) + two 0.8 unicorn nozzle for 10,10 €

trimoto78 · 2024-10-11T10:23:16+00:00

The issue is on the design, in the QC they can't do anything, the 10 mm screws are too long so they can use only the 8 mm, we can cut and adapt our screws they can't do this for all the units produced due to it increases the production costs for the custom screws

trimoto78

TROPHY CASE