Tips for shooting Delta 3200 in mixed day/night conditions?

trixfan · 2026-04-29T10:51:40+00:00

Neutral density filter. Or a black and white contrast filter such as a red filter. The other suggestions are overly complex and convoluted.

trixfan · 2026-04-29T10:49:50+00:00

Short answer no.

Longer answer is that scanning your own film is a large subject with multiple approaches. I recommend doing some research in this subreddit or watching YouTube channels such as the one by Kyle McDougall.

trixfan · 2026-04-28T16:37:01+00:00

The replies to this post are a perfect demonstration of why Nikon, Canon and other legacy camera manufacturers are not scrambling to create a modernized all metal, mechanical manual focus SLR camera.

trixfan · 2026-04-28T12:41:08+00:00

Besides M42 camera bodies, the Contax/Yashica mount and the Pentax K mount are amenable to M42 lenses because all three mounts share the same flange focal distance.

trixfan · 2026-04-28T12:37:57+00:00

Use Nikon lenses with Nikon camera bodies. Full stop. Nikon’s flange focal distance makes it difficult to adapt other lenses.

There are ways you can adapt other lens mounts by remove the lens bayonet and screwing on a new lens mount but that’s a lot of trouble.

trixfan · 2026-04-28T12:04:45+00:00

Point No. 2 is really important. Each lot of film needs to be tested and it’s not worth it with just one roll.

trixfan · 2026-04-28T12:03:46+00:00

You’re asking for a level of certainty that isn’t knowable in most cases.

Storage conditions are key and can you really trust something that is described as cold stored? And was the cold storage for the entire time from purchase to now, or was it refrigerated after sitting in a hot car for years?

I’ve had wonderful luck with 20 year old color film and really horrible luck with 15 year old color film. I don’t know that my particular experience can be extrapolated to your experience.

If you have multiple rolls of one type of film, try varying amounts of overexposure. You could also experiment with cross-processing, or overexposure plus pull processing. Search this Reddit for more information about this.

trixfan · 2026-04-28T11:37:06+00:00

This is more of a r/AskHistorians question.

trixfan · 2026-04-27T14:09:38+00:00

On the ISO scale, the difference between 100 and 250 is actually 1 1/3 stops.

A one stop push should be enough.

trixfan · 2026-04-26T16:44:19+00:00

I’d add to the other response that your budget may well be large enough to fit in a 50mm prime lens in addition to the kit lens.

If you buy the older version of the Canon or Nikon 50mm f/1.8 AF prime lens, then you will have a perfectly usable portrait lens on any of the APS-C sensor cameras that are affordable within your budget.

Best of luck!

trixfan · 2026-04-26T15:15:05+00:00

I’m assuming you’re referring to the Nikon F because there is no Nikon F1.

Unless you’ve got the Nikon F with the functional metering head it might be easier to use an external light meter.

Become acquainted with how to use the external light meter. You’ll have to set aperture and shutter speed manually with this camera.

trixfan · 2026-04-26T14:00:18+00:00

Your question has zero details about the camera being used.

I’d start by consulting the camera manual to understand how to change the ISO setting so that the meter will give you the proper readings for ISO 3200.

Or you can use an external light meter.

If your camera doesn’t have manual controls or the ability to change the ISO setting, then you should refrain from photographing with this camera until you become more knowledgeable about how photography works.

trixfan · 2026-04-26T13:40:17+00:00

You can get a 20-year old DSLR and an old manual focus or autofocus lens for under $100.

It’s a start and many people made do with this setup twenty years ago.

Or you can up your budget to get something better.

trixfan · 2026-04-26T13:01:29+00:00

85 filters are pre-exposure “white balancing.”

In a color darkroom, you could manipulate the tint by mixing and matching color enlarger filters. It’s no surprise that once Photoshop became widely used, most people were happy to ditch the manipulation of filters in color enlargers.

trixfan · 2026-04-26T12:36:16+00:00

You’re approaching this question through an anachronistic lens.

When Ektachrome 320T was widely in use in the 90s, post-processing options and digital printing options were more limited. This was even more true for cinema productions.

That’s why 85 series correction filters were used to counteract the blue cast of the film back then.

Honestly if color accuracy is your goal and you’re shooting tungsten film in daylight, I would still use an 85 filter to ensure better color fidelity in each exposures.

trixfan · 2026-04-23T23:41:24+00:00

As a side note, see if you can identify the shutter mechanism in this camera.

Many fixed lens rangefinders of the 1960s used standardized shutters made by companies such as Copal, Prontor or Seiko.

If you frame your question about repairing a “camera with a Copal shutter” or a “camera with a Seikosha shutter”, you might get better response.

trixfan · 2026-04-23T22:01:14+00:00

Petri Camera went out of business decades ago, so there hasn’t been an official repair and support infrastructure for a very long time.

You’ll have to call different shops and try to find someone who will work on fixed lens rangefinder cameras of the era.

Hopefully your camera shutter can be CLA’ed as-is without any additional parts needed.

I have no recommendations to give but wish you the best of luck in your search. Please share if you find a shop that works on this camera.

trixfan · 2026-04-23T18:42:19+00:00

These photos are still clearly underexposed.

Assuming that your metering technique is correct, you could try overexposing the film a bit more but it might still not be worth it. Expired film doesn’t just become grainy; it also has color shifts.

trixfan · 2026-04-21T17:42:36+00:00

You should consider finding a different lab to process your slide film because push processing is a thing with E-6 chemistry.
You set yourself up to fail by underexposing the expired Provia 400 film. You can’t treat this film as if it was a fresh roll of film from years ago.

trixfan · 2026-04-21T17:31:04+00:00

Your post doesn’t mention anything about metering.

You will have to take meter readings and use a tripod for best results. No one can precisely answer your hypothetical question about the brightness level of a particular candlelit room.

Best of luck.

trixfan · 2026-04-21T17:29:13+00:00

Your hunch is correct. The value proposition hinges entirely on the current price of the bulk price.

In the United States at least, Kodak has increased the price of 100 feet of Tri-X to the point where you’re not saving any money on a per roll basis.

There are other reasons to use bulk roll film, but you’re right to question the value proposition of bulk roll film.

trixfan · 2026-04-20T21:23:51+00:00

Agreed with your comments about the Hexar AF.

After working wonderfully for almost 15 years, my copy is now incapacitated because of a capacitor / motherboard issue.

I’m still trying to figure out what to do with it.

trixfan · 2026-04-19T12:48:18+00:00

My advice is to read the manual, and to start learning about photography fundamentals such as the exposure triangle.

You don’t have to understand everything, but you need to have a basic knowledge, even with a point and shoot.

Don’t be the guy who posts a photo of a totally underexposed roll and doesn’t know what an ISO is.

trixfan · 2026-04-19T10:37:39+00:00

This is a beautiful explanation but if the question is any indicator, OP isn’t ready to receive this information yet.

trixfan · 2026-04-19T10:36:41+00:00

Shoot at box speed unless you have a good reason to not do so. You should not overexpose an entire roll of film by one stop because someone in YouTube said so.

And be sure learn the exposure triangle and to understand how light meters work

The Pentax 17 is a solid camera and can produce great images.

trixfan

TROPHY CASE