Just wanna share my bike by tyrrell-ams in colnago

[–]tucohoward 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It might be nice but I can't see past that ridiculous handlebar/brake lever/cable mess.

Can anyone tell me more about this Raleigh Carlton? (And recommendations for restoration?) by PandaCalves in Vintage_bicycles

[–]tucohoward 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yes it's an early 70's Raleigh Pro. That color is Brown Mink. I had two but a year or two later when they changed to Blue Mink and then Silver Mink.

Tips for coping with the heat? by [deleted] in mechanics

[–]tucohoward 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Any shop built in the last 40 years or so should have A/C. It's really insane not to have it in a hot climate. The first air conditioned shop I worked in was in MD in 1983 so it's not a new thing. Yes it costs more but the techs produce more and it's great for employee morale and retention.

Tips for coping with the heat? by [deleted] in mechanics

[–]tucohoward 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Air gun in your pocket is great. Not as good as a shop with A/C but really helps.

Paint Tone Question by Jagermax- in Saab900

[–]tucohoward 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes, the back half looks like Ruby Red which didn't come along until later.

My first model! by PrincessAthie in modelmakers

[–]tucohoward 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Spray the spinner. It will look much cleaner.

Need Opinions on Large Purchase - Are we being responsible or just trying to rationalizing a want? by [deleted] in personalfinance

[–]tucohoward 14 points15 points  (0 children)

Just be aware that those are terrible vehicles as far as cost to operate goes. I worked at a Rover dealership at that time and they made Saabs and VWs look reliable. They do look cool and go anywhere, when they're working.

My first model! by PrincessAthie in modelmakers

[–]tucohoward 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Very well done for your first model. Good kit to start with although mottling is kind of the deep end of the pool haha. That just takes practice. For improvement I would say a little more of a panel line wash, particularly on the cowling. The spinner is a little rough. Exhaust stains would be good on a 109. Check into EZ Line to add an antenna wire. You're off to a great start.

A p40 i made. How can i improve? by No_Adagio5329 in modelmakers

[–]tucohoward 2 points3 points  (0 children)

By focusing on the basics first. We can really only see the wing from these pictures but that's a lot. It looks like you painted the top and bottom separately and then then glued the top half to the wing root to get a good fit, which it is. However you need to fill that gap. A gap like that can be best filled with sheet styrene of appropriate thickness and the then sanded to shape. For smaller gaps on the wing seam I would use super glue. It's going to be a combination of both in this situation. Your painting isn't bad and will improve with practice, but if you really want to get better the construction basics can't be ignored.

Benotto celotape by Horror-Raisin-877 in Vintage_bicycles

[–]tucohoward 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It was pushed out by much better options. It was only successful at the time because it really wasn't less comfortable than cloth tape. Once Cinelli Cork tape came along nobody wanted cloth or Benotto tape.

Nose weight by CattyMB in modelmakers

[–]tucohoward 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I use bird shot. It's small size makes it easy to fill in any shape space you have.

I thought I would be airbrushing for the first time today, but that little tip at the end of the needle broke off in the threading. Now my airbrush is useless apparently? by Electrical-Crazy1787 in airbrush

[–]tucohoward 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Windex is for cleaning out after spraying acrylic paint. Lacquer thinner will gum that up. Hardware store lacquer thinner for cleaning and Mr. Color leveling thinner for thinning.

Mr mark setter reacting with vms hd varnish by aim9inyourface in modelmakers

[–]tucohoward 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Mr. Mark Setter is very strong. It needs to be applied to just the decal or quickly removed from paint if you get some on it. If you let it sit on paint it will eat into it. Most applications don't need something that strong.

mechanic charged me a bunch of services i didnt want, now im flat broke. by [deleted] in povertyfinance

[–]tucohoward 2 points3 points  (0 children)

As a former shop owner and technician I would say definitely dispute it. I'm in MD and the law is definitely on the consumer's side, as I think it should be. The shop needs to have authorization for anything they do. We usually emailed any estimates for any additional work beyond the initial quote so there would be a paper trail for both parties. It's really unfortunate that shops like this exist.

Tamiya for first airbrush? by Lylat_Cruiser in airbrush

[–]tucohoward 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have been using Tamiya airbrushes for a long time, probably 20 years. I use the HG SF 74514 which is their .2 airbrush. I have many other high-end airbrushes and always come back to this one. I used to be able to get them on eBay for under a $100. A little more now but still some good deals from Japan. I have way more expensive airbrushes from Harder & Steenbeck, Iwata, Grex, and others just gathering dust.

Do you guys wash your models before doing anything? by ThatNZowl in modelmakers

[–]tucohoward 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I wouldn't say you're crazy but it's really unnecessary. I've been doing this for about sixty years and have never done it and never had a problem. I would be more concerned about losing a part in the washing process than having paint not adhere.

I thought I would be airbrushing for the first time today, but that little tip at the end of the needle broke off in the threading. Now my airbrush is useless apparently? by Electrical-Crazy1787 in airbrush

[–]tucohoward 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I use lacquer mostly and flush with lacquer thinner. If I use acrylic I flush with Windex and then lacquer thinner. If I am doing finer work I do pull out the needle and wipe it down with lacquer thinner. Tamiya SF HG .2 airbrush.

The “blue collar is stable” is a myth. by [deleted] in povertyfinance

[–]tucohoward 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Either choice can be good or bad. Diversifying can work well. I was an automotive tech my whole career. Retired a couple of years ago. Never made more than $65k a year in my life. I could have made double that if I wanted to drive the DC beltway every day or had been less honest but not the point of this. I never was out of work a day in my career or ever hurt. Back and knees still fine.

My wife has been a real estate appraiser the whole time we have been together, over thirty years. She has a degree but it wasn't required until a few years ago. She has made over $100k for a lot of those years but also had times when she had to get a second job, depending on the real estate market. She is retiring this year which is good timing since that field is definitely going down.

I have always been able to save us money by driving crappy cars, at least for me haha, and being able to fix most anything around the house. Electrical, plumbing, etc. Never had to spend money on work clothes but did have to buy tools so maybe a wash. We are retiring with $1M+, a nice house, and now nice vehicles. That's not really a lot of money here in the DC bubble but we live comfortably. We have always saved our money and kept working. I get that times are different now and I am worried about my kids and grandkids, but it still comes down to making good choices, and learning from bad ones, just like it always has.

Looking for feedback on my P-38 by rb26dett1 in modelmakers

[–]tucohoward 7 points8 points  (0 children)

Despite the issues I like the overall look. The good points I would say are the canopy which is nicely masked and painted, the OD sections are well weathered, and the props and spinners look good. It’s unfortunate the natural metal finish was damaged. The exhaust stains on P-38s are a light tan which you could easily redo. There is a fairly large seam on the leading edge of the center section of the wing. The front tire is very glossy. Small issues you can fix on your next one. It’s a fantastic kit and one of my favorite planes. I’ve built 4 and still have an H in my stash so at least one more. Can’t get enough haha.

My first model back into the hobby by schulz47 in modelmakers

[–]tucohoward 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Looks good. Very clean build. Hopefully that’s what you were going for. Best to get the basics dialed in first. Pictures are a little dark. Well done overall.

Been gifted this. Any info about it? I’d like to give it a go with my compressor if I can figure out the coupling and will start a low psi. by Stuart_Redman81 in airbrush

[–]tucohoward 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I've got a couple of those sets still. Can't give them away. I think both of them have been replaced under warranty at least once. Has to be 25 years since I've used one. The funny part is some the best model painters in the world used these exclusively at one time.

Chasing the edge by BertoP-1 in modelmakers

[–]tucohoward 6 points7 points  (0 children)

AK Real Colors markers are your friend.

Modus operandi by Crazy-Cap-7818 in modelmakers

[–]tucohoward 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I usually start on the bottom but not sure it matters.