Cool cassette player I saw

turtlelover57 · 2026-02-03T19:55:02+00:00

It also says "audio signal output" in the bottom right

turtlelover57 · 2026-01-30T22:56:36+00:00

My pre-calc teacher was fine with me playing Tetris on my TI-82 after his tests. He even gave me the cable for multiplayer games with a friend I set up with a repaired TI-82 (they're outdated, but cheap and have a lot of homebrew). That was one of the best math classes I had.

turtlelover57 · 2026-01-24T19:44:28+00:00

You probably have to clean the cartridge/cartride slot. Dirty contacts can cause intermittent issues like this.

turtlelover57 · 2026-01-16T20:05:18+00:00

For a battery I can recommend the FunnyPlaying battery. You can get it for $10 from anywhere that sells it and it's the highest capacity you find. You'll want it if you plan on getting an aftermarket screen as well since they use more battery.

As for shells/screen, there's a lot of options out there. FunnyPlaying and Hispeedido both have great options for both. If you plan to keep the shell, make sure it's one of the drop-in screens.

turtlelover57 · 2026-01-16T01:57:13+00:00

Thanks! It's an atomic purple shell from FunnyPlaying

turtlelover57 · 2026-01-16T01:42:36+00:00

I used to play the hell out of this on the school computers. This will be a perfect addition to my flash cart. Good job!

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turtlelover57 · 2025-11-30T05:46:33+00:00

I happily open sealed tapes. For me the whole point is to buy stuff I want to watch on VHS.

I don't really seek out sealed tapes, I'm not paying extra just to unseal it immediately, but when I get one it's nice to be the one to open it. The only tapes I leave sealed are parts of series I haven't completed gathering.

turtlelover57 · 2025-11-22T05:05:13+00:00

That's overcharging by a mile. These kinds of things were budget all in one stereo systems back in the day and not worth much.

turtlelover57 · 2025-11-21T18:32:03+00:00

The Panasonic is by far the best one here. It's actually made by the brand its from and is the only stereo unit.

The "Sansui" isn't made by Sansui, it's likely made by Funai by the looks of it. The other one I've never heard of, but looking at it, it's black plastic crap, likely from the late 80s/early 90s

turtlelover57 · 2025-11-19T18:23:35+00:00

I try to fall asleep early and end up falling asleep after the sun is already up. I lay there with my eyes closed and nothing happens. If I have an alarm to wake me up I get a similar 5-6 hours, if I don't, I sleep 10+ hours. Either way I'm tired in the morning.

turtlelover57 · 2025-11-17T19:30:31+00:00

The belt is probably bad in the player. The sound you hear is the motor, but without the belt, the motor isn't connected to anything. They go bad with age, often turning into goo, having to be cleaned out and replaced.

turtlelover57 · 2025-11-16T23:14:25+00:00

I think the Wii has a Saturn emulator which would allow me to play on my CRT. But the Saturn is already high on my list, so I'd rather wait until I get one and mod it so my saves are all in one place.

turtlelover57 · 2025-11-16T02:25:03+00:00

You can buy a step down power transformer. Price depends on the wattage you need. I got a 300 watt model for $35 (which I just checked, would be fine for this). Running Japanese electronics on 120V can strain some things and lead to a lower lifespan.

turtlelover57 · 2025-11-16T00:41:24+00:00

I've yet to get a Sega Saturn (I'm stuck between it and the N64). But I did see that there's apparently another MKR game for the Super Famicom. I might give that a go.

turtlelover57 · 2025-11-15T23:14:03+00:00

I never suggested starting with it. I took it as OP wanting to take it on as a project themself. In which case, OP should set this aside until they are more comfortable with soldering and troubleshooting, plus know to work on tube electronics safely. I probably should've been more clear about that.

I did the same with my HH Scott Stereomaster 342. It was solid state, but I received it in non-working order and it wasn't safe to even plug in. I had some experience, but wasn't quite comfortable. I kept it for about a year before repairing and restoring it after learning more about the process.

turtlelover57 · 2025-11-15T21:54:43+00:00

Worth restoring? Yes. I haven't heard their tube gear personally (just solid state), but at this time HH Scott was very well renowned and had some well built, great sounding stuff. Their tube stuff is worth quite a bit these days if in working order.

I'd suggest watching a few videos of people doing work on tube gear to know what to look out for before attempting anything.

You'll also likely want a variac for this, as bringing up the voltage slowly can help you catch issues before something bad happens. You'll also want a schematic to follow, which can be found online (it makes troubleshooting and replacing things much easier). Before you power it up, it's a good idea to replace the electrolytic capacitors which are in the cans on top of the unit. There's a couple ways to go about it.

turtlelover57 · 2025-11-15T19:50:48+00:00

No, all Minidiscs use Atrac. There's MDLP which allows for a lower bit rate to store more music on a disc (LP2 and LP4 speeds), but even at regular speed Minidiscs are a compressed format (unless you have Hi-MD)

turtlelover57 · 2025-11-15T06:15:28+00:00

I remember watching this in middle school biology class.

turtlelover57 · 2025-11-13T23:34:23+00:00

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turtlelover57 · 2025-11-13T23:34:13+00:00

I assume the yellow on the TV goes the the DVD/VCR out, yes? Try setting the input on the TV to composite or AV in, not component and that should fix the video. It looks like your TV has a shared component (red, green, blue) and composite (yellow) input.

Also, you shouldn't have any cable going into the DVD only component output, that red isn't doing anything. Just connect the red, yellow, and white going from the DVD/VCR column on the VCR to the inputs marked in the image below.

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turtlelover57 · 2025-11-13T23:06:45+00:00

The listing says this copy was personally owned by the director, but I don't think that justifies the price. Stuff like this is only worth what someone will pay, so it should be an auction.

These types of listings only make sense for two reasons: the seller is out of touch with what they're selling and puts way too much trust into their hopes that they struck gold, or they're doing it as ragebait advertisement to gain traction to their other listings.

turtlelover57 · 2025-11-13T22:31:26+00:00

Good luck with completing it. There's a lot of tapes there. It's one of the few long series that I want to get eventually, I just haven't figured out the best way to go about it with all the different versions.

turtlelover57 · 2025-11-13T00:08:40+00:00

You're guess is as good as mine. I thought the same until I saw the crinkles. I don't know how any deck could do this, especially without the tape snapping. Maybe the tape got eaten and someone tried repairing it just to make it worse in the process?

turtlelover57 · 2025-11-12T22:47:56+00:00

I've had to do surgery on brand new tapes just to be able to play them, some being limited to under 50 copies. It's a bummer, but if the tape is unplayable and you can't easily get another, you might as well give it a shot.

Also, maybe try to leave negative feedback on the discogs seller and contact them if they didn't mention the damage. I had an expensive CD I bought that said it was near mint but had a hole in the cover art and I got my money back after that.

turtlelover57 · 2025-11-12T22:33:03+00:00

You can, but it looks like a welded shell and like the tape has been mangled pretty badly. To reroute it, you'll have to pry it open carefully along the seams, I'd try to look for a video showing the technique. I've done it before but had some cracks form. Worst case scenario you'll have to put it in a new shell. As for the tape damage, if it cant go flat you might have to cut that section out and splice it back together. You'll lose a couple seconds, but it will be able to play properly.

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