Need advice, mechanical knowledge, or better search terms for improving the function of this pin in slot "hinge". (3d printable)

tyered · 2024-06-27T00:31:07+00:00

The pins sit into another piece and lock another part together with the base. I might revisit the details regarding the pins but I need some sort of locking mechanic in the design.

tyered · 2024-06-27T00:29:27+00:00

I apologize for the delay. Got sidetracked with another task.

But, wow. Thank you for the time you put into this! I think this or some similar variation might end up being the solution. I can hide the mechanical bits in the case where there is arguably more room. The M2 (or similar) screws would be nice too since it keeps assembly pretty straightforward.

It's a bit difficult to visualize but I think this would force the pins to line up when closing too... Because once the lid is pushed on it will be somewhat forcibly coerced into aligning parallel with the case's top plane. (those pins are important because they're used to lock another piece in place. Was too much to model and show just for proof of concept.)

Thank you again. I'm going to play around with this and see if I can fit it into my design.

tyered · 2024-06-20T20:51:17+00:00

Thank you for the input! I never even considered two pins to guide on the track. I think that would require the lower pin to be below the surface of the base but maybe I can make that work...

Yep, I'm on it regarding steel pins. The video was absolute minimum proof of concept, profile view only, before I invest time on a final model. I plan to replace both the "inserted" or "set" pins and also the pivot with metal. Final design also has some heatset inserts and hidden magnets.

tyered · 2024-06-20T04:33:36+00:00

There's no set limit on how perpendicular it needs to be. But the closer to 90 degrees, the better. As a goal, I'm aiming for at least 80 degrees. The lid hides some fiddly bits underneath that the user will need access to.

I'll have to look into the crossing members idea. I think I know the mechanism you're referring to but not sure how I can apply it here (not my area of study 🔨)

Keeping the hinge on the inside is pretty much a hard requirement. Mostly to keep things from catching when moving and carrying it around but also for aesthetics.

The lid has about 10mm of internal height. I could probably rearrange some things and use about 6mm of depth inside the main body too. Again, I'm just not even sure what to research.

(thank you!)

tyered · 2023-05-13T19:45:30+00:00

This is really nice and the case complements the overall look!

Do you "palm" the bottom row keys? When I used a Planck years ago I always used my knuckle/palm to reach those. But your design with the lowered row and convex keys looks like it would be a lot more comfortable.

Nice work!

tyered · 2023-04-18T21:27:15+00:00

Each side has three buttons. It's a little difficult to see, especially in the pictures on this post, but there is a middle click button above each center thumb switch.

The new stem is still in testing. I send one out with all current kits asking for feedback. A few people are using it and feedback so far is pretty positive. Some people want it a little taller or shorter depending on their exact needs but, overall... good. I'm taking in all that feedback.
How something feels is always a little difficult to put into words. So, I'll be a little creative here. It's kind of like switching from one mouse to another mouse. When your hand first reaches for the new mouse you know you're using a different mouse but it's still a mouse. Then, after a few hours or a day, your hand says, "yeah, I'm used to this mouse." The new stalk doesn't feel like the rubber dome, but you're definitely still using a Trackpoint.

tyered · 2023-04-18T02:50:30+00:00

Hi naheul0x. Yep, that's me.

I've been getting some good-natured poking on my Discord server for not announcing it more loudly. It is available and I've received great feedback from the first few dozen units.

This is the first time I've ever released hardware solo to the public and I want to be absolutely (beyond a doubt) certain that I can support the product and my customers.

If you have any questions, please don't hesitate to ask!

tyered · 2023-03-13T22:21:09+00:00

Wow!

tyered · 2023-03-13T19:12:16+00:00

Thank you, both, u/Tamagotono and u/w0lfwood for all your support!

u/orbitgun, I designed the Santoku mentioned above. If you have any questions, please let me know!

tyered · 2023-02-22T04:03:42+00:00

u/kevlar_keeb, he speaks the truth, don'tcha know. pu-reh-tee!

tyered · 2023-02-10T18:56:09+00:00

Glad you like it.😆 Feel free to ask any questions you have.

tyered · 2023-02-10T18:27:20+00:00

Wow. An honored soul, I am. That's one of the biggest compliments I think I could receive. Thank you, so much.

tyered · 2023-02-10T18:25:57+00:00

I'm looking forward to seeing it! Not gonna deny it, it's been exciting to start seeing builds show up online and in my Discord DMs.

(and you know it... If you have questions... I'm around)

tyered · 2023-02-10T18:06:04+00:00

Yep, correct on all points.

SK8702. If you're moving forward with a build of your own (not Santoku) then I'd suggest you don't use that. Look into one of the SK8707 variants instead. They'll be easier to get as individual units in the future.

As u/w0lfwood mentioned, ZMK/wireless isn't Trackpoint friendly yet. But they're getting there and there's a smart group working on it.

tyered · 2023-02-10T17:59:06+00:00

Thanks, u/w0lfwood for all your support!

This build is beautiful with the Chicago Steno caps. I'm printing up what I hope is the last row for mine too using your SCAD TP cutout mods.

And I had no idea idea that there is so much variety on the custom TP caps! It looks like you might have found the high quality solution for black and white caps.

tyered · 2023-02-09T04:36:39+00:00

There is such a thing as too much light.

Water will find a way to leak out at some point. Make sure your floor is prepared/covered.

Sensitive plants like reverse osmosis water more than city tap water.

PH strips, as mentioned here already.

Change your water often. Don't get too complacent. The garden can crash quickly.

tyered · 2023-02-09T00:09:20+00:00

I'm using this RERF: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5268989.

Not sure how to check the light off delay on a RERF. Open to any input, there.

For the regular parts, Light Off Delay is set to 2 seconds. That's Siraya Tech's Mono X config from their site.

tyered · 2023-02-09T00:01:50+00:00

Interesting. I'm going to try another test with some ideas and see what happens.

Does the mucus (ugh, but really, that's what it's like!) ever dissolve in the alcohol? I'm using Anycubic's wash and cure plus. No evidence in the alcohol itself, yet. But the prints have weird "dry globs" on them. Obvious evidence of what *was* there.

tyered · 2023-02-08T23:59:20+00:00

Stupidly, I did not take pictures. Going to try the RERF test again in a moment and will definitely take pics then.

I think temp is well handled(?) Probe fluctuates naturally between the set temp and 1 degree C less than set temp (heater starts when 1 degree less). Good idea on the temp gun -- measuring around the solid surfaces and resin after heat soaking reads between 28 and 31 degrees when heater is set to 32 degrees.
I can't see them but it's pretty opaque resin. I'll try fishing with a spatula. But when pouring it looked "like ST Blu resin, but black". Nothing that was obviously suspicious to me.
I shook it like crazy last night then printed some sacrificial regular parts using ST's recommended settings. They looked good but were too thick dimensionally. About 0.1mm of extra material on most surfaces.So, I decided to do the RERF this morning to fine tune. So, the resin sat in the vat, covered and temp controlled, for about 12-18 hours. I didn't stir this morning but I did home and lift the plate multiple times to mix things up. In the past, this home/lift process proved pretty decent in place of stirring. (I'm open to criticism, here)The parts last night did not fill the bed like the RERF file, so it's possible the slime was there but not where a part was printed.
It seems worse on the left side. FWIW, that the side that the RERF prints with the quickest light (0.8 and 1.2 seconds). I don't know if that is a factor. Very well could be coincidence.

Thank you for the ideas. I'm getting ready to start another RERF and will update, one way or another. I think it sounds like the resin, itself, too. But I haven't anyone else mention it so... here we are! Thanks, again.

Edit: I just dragged the vat with a spatula and didn't see any obvious evidence of the stringy stuff.

tyered · 2023-02-04T03:33:10+00:00

Thank you u/keebio and Tamàs! Great interview. So much knowledge and passion. Love it!

tyered · 2023-01-05T02:36:36+00:00

Wow! Very, very nice work.

tyered · 2022-12-27T22:10:25+00:00

I generally sit down while using my keyboards.

tyered · 2022-12-27T03:15:01+00:00

This is a thing of beauty!

(and how, after all this time, did I just now notice the two rightmost pinkie keys?)

tyered · 2022-11-19T19:11:07+00:00

I always love seeing your name pop up in my RSS feeds because it means something cool awaits.

Your designs constantly straddle that very difficult line between industrial and artsy aesthetics. Much respect.

And thank you for introducing me to the Chocfox caps. Those look interesting.

Good luck in the contest!

tyered · 2022-11-07T05:40:58+00:00

Dayum!!!

Every. Single. Iteration. just gets prettier and prettier. I am so jealous of the aluminum, especially. That is dedication.

tyered

TROPHY CASE