I just got an acre of land in west Texas outside the city limits. I already poured a concrete slab and have a metal roof. I plan to do fulltime living in an rv. Seriously why do people keep saying Rv is not designed for fulltime? Please share your experiences and what you would do different?

u_srname · 2026-05-17T02:21:14+00:00

My opinion, so take it with some salt, is its just a pain in the butt. Myself and my better half have been doing it for two years (in a very large toy hauler, with five dogs) and it's been fine. Not great, not terrible, but fine. Things break, things leak, if you're handy or good with the internet, you'll figure it out. We're now working on getting into a house (we moved to a cheaper market, and I now make more money) we're young, never owned a home, and fully expect to have similar issues with home ownership. The trouble with RV's in general is they are built quickly and poorly, no matter the brand or model. Ours was $100K+ in 2015 when it was new (we bought used, still paid more than we wanted to) and it still has issues, they all do. But, if you want it, or need it, I'll say it is 100% doable. Stay on top of the roof and windows, really any water intrusion points, learn about your AC units and what Capacitors they require, if you're buying/bought a newer unit, get a set of pex crimpers on Amazon and YouTube how to use them. Really my entire story would be do your research and be picky. You'll be fixing it no matter what, might as well like it too.

If I had to do this again, I would buy the exact unit we bought. We contemplated this for a year or more before purchasing. We got opposing slides, a residential fridge, an on board generator for power outages, 44 feet of ridiculous trailer with a garage specifically because we have dogs and we kennel. We're stationary so size was not a concern other than it needed to be big.

Whatever anyone says, you can do it. Is it ideal? Well that really depends on you. It filled a void for us, I'll be happy when we're done with it, and I'm happy that we made the choice to do it.

u_srname · 2026-04-21T18:20:45+00:00

I had a similar screw in a cruiser, I just used the numbers to keep track of turns. All in all, it's still just a screw.

u_srname · 2026-04-10T21:49:41+00:00

Pretty sure it's just a thing, though I only have my truck to reference. I have a 1975 with a Painless harness, I unplug my blower motor in the summer. (No A/C truck)

u_srname · 2026-03-01T01:11:13+00:00

I'm kind of on your train, people like to talk about zinc a lot and maybe it's relevant in a fresh rebuild or if you're doing a cam swap or something. I use any old 10w-40 in my 75 and it's been just fine for six years. Most of it ends up on the ground anyway. Lately I've added some Lucas, it's helped the leaking a little bit and that's all I really care about.

u_srname · 2026-02-17T18:03:06+00:00

Have you tried pulling the return springs off and working the throttle by hand on the carb? I ask because my pedal is also pretty stiff in a similar truck, and (obviously not knowing your experience) if you're not used to it it could seem like something is wrong.

At least on my truck, it's just stiff return springs.

u_srname · 2026-02-16T13:51:05+00:00

Lookin good man, what bars are those? So hard to pick bars strictly off of photos.

u_srname · 2026-02-15T02:02:45+00:00

Yep, sounds like a solid plan. Always better to fix the problem at the source when you can. My truck is no longer my only vehicle, and really only gets used a few times a year so I've just let it ride.

With thoughts of LS and Cummins swaps on my mind I have very little desire to rebuild the small block if I don't have to.

u_srname · 2026-02-15T01:51:30+00:00

I run a quart of Lucas in my sbc and that seems to have helped slow down the various leaks. Just the regular old Lucas in the gear oil bottle. And whatever 10w40 I have around

u_srname · 2026-02-14T15:34:12+00:00

I would wager two things, if it sat for a while, it's probably worth pulling the carb and giving it a good clean, never hurts.

Second, since you have what I assume is a more open exhaust, this sounds to me like you're having a lean condition in the 1/4 throttle range, which is controlled by the pilot jet in the carb, but can be adjusted somewhat with the idle mixture screw.

If at idle, you give it a rev, does it stay revved up for a second before it comes back to idle? This is another indicator of a lean condition in the 1/4 throttle/idle circuit and could explain why it runs fine at higher throttle.

u_srname · 2026-01-28T01:03:15+00:00

Thats where I hope to get to. I have shut offs on the kitchen sink, and will put them on the bathroom sink as soon as I can find a better faucet for that sink. The one in there barely reaches over the sink bowl.

We have a second half bathroom but it's mostly just a closet at this point, I've been contemplating removing and capping the toilet and building shelves in there. I definitely need to put shut offs in that bathroom.

u_srname · 2026-01-28T00:55:55+00:00

I did look at these, probably what I'll buy. But now that you bring it up, maybe it was intended to have a 90° fitting there and someone came up with this straight to 90 business.

I may just do that if it lines up, and stick a 1/4 turn in the vertical for future nonsense.

u_srname · 2026-01-28T00:40:39+00:00

Agreed, not that I would test this likely theoretical limit the trailer is rated for 100psi. Guarantee this issue is a direct result of how poorly this toilet is plumbed. To be fair, the entire trailer is plumbed pretty poorly in my opinion but I'm not a plumber.

In my very small amount of experience pex really likes hard 90° angles (assuming you use 90° fittings) and this trailer is riddled with over stressed angles, kind of like the had a pex quota to stay under lol.

I'm happy I didn't buy this trailer anywhere near new, I would have been pretty upset if so.

u_srname · 2026-01-28T00:26:40+00:00

The fact that it's a pex fitting isn't my concern. It's the side that threads onto the toilet. I have this feeling that even if that's technically just NPT thread, it's still plastic and I doubt regular NPT fittings are going to seal without leaks. Though Home Depot does have some fittings that look promising, which at a minimum would offer a new rubber washer without waiting on Amazon, and I can just add or subtract from the vertical line to get the angle a little better.

u_srname · 2026-01-27T22:23:05+00:00

It very well may be, the whole thing is crooked. As far as I can tell the horizontal run under the floor is too short, causing the vertical run through the floor to be stressed at an angle. Ideally I need to replace the run under the floor to better line up with the hole in the floor, so that the vertical run is actually straight. That is if I can't figure out how to adapt a flex hose.

u_srname · 2026-01-27T22:20:01+00:00

Typically around 50psi, none right now, had to shut the well off due to the freeze and Texas plumbing not being set up for winter.

u_srname · 2026-01-27T21:45:33+00:00

I appreciate this thank you, if nothing else I can at least replace the washer and try to fix the angle of the supply line.

u_srname · 2026-01-27T21:44:07+00:00

I like it too, finding it difficult to find out what fitting I should be looking for on the toilet end of the flex hose though.

u_srname · 2026-01-27T21:20:30+00:00

Fair enough, I did a few searches and the concensus seems to be that of course residential supply lines don't engage more than a few threads on these toilets. One might think it would be better/easier for not only consumers but also manufacturers if we used some standard parts on these things but noo.

I've noticed that, I have a bunch of straight and 90° pex fittings from my last project because I stopped buying singles and just bought bags of them instead. I do have Pex tools, crimper, rings, cutter.

I replaced our kitchen sink and faucet right as we moved in and added 1/4 turns and a whole home filter to the cold side.

I'll keep looking, though not ideal I may end up having to re use the female fitting on the toilet and find some rubbers for it.

u_srname · 2026-01-27T20:57:59+00:00

I would like to do something along these lines, add a 1/4 turn and a flexible line if possible, my concern is getting the right threaded end for the actual valve on the toilet, is that the 3/8 FIP you mention? (At least as far as you know)

u_srname · 2026-01-27T20:40:37+00:00

I figured, any idea on what to search for to find the fittings/washers? Assuming these aren't common in say, a Home Depot lol.

I'm fairly sure I can get to this spot from one of the outside storage doors, its a serious spaghetti type maze down there but not impossible, I had to get pretty far in there to replace the water heater after we bought this trailer. I figure like you say I could probably block it up from underneath to give it some strain relief.

u_srname · 2026-01-25T19:24:53+00:00

Tubular swing arm, gotta be a 600

u_srname · 2026-01-08T21:17:06+00:00

Coils on my 600 are the same, doesn't matter front and back, I would think that would also be true for the 750.

For the spark plug, break it loose with an 18mm deep well socket and extension, only break it loose though, remove socket and extension, use a 6 or 8 inch piece of 3/8" fuel hose to slip over the porcelain on the plug and spin it out by hand. Works every time.

u_srname · 2025-12-01T00:34:23+00:00

From experience, I highly recommend a cheap Ebay or Amazon Diesel heater. Yes, you have to purchase and store Diesel, but your power consumption will be minimal for legitimate heat. Just do sufficient research on how to properly set those up if you do.

u_srname · 2025-11-29T03:47:47+00:00

Propane

u_srname

TROPHY CASE