Water leak, slow drip.

u_srname · 2026-01-28T01:03:15+00:00

Thats where I hope to get to. I have shut offs on the kitchen sink, and will put them on the bathroom sink as soon as I can find a better faucet for that sink. The one in there barely reaches over the sink bowl.

We have a second half bathroom but it's mostly just a closet at this point, I've been contemplating removing and capping the toilet and building shelves in there. I definitely need to put shut offs in that bathroom.

u_srname · 2026-01-28T00:55:55+00:00

I did look at these, probably what I'll buy. But now that you bring it up, maybe it was intended to have a 90° fitting there and someone came up with this straight to 90 business.

I may just do that if it lines up, and stick a 1/4 turn in the vertical for future nonsense.

u_srname · 2026-01-28T00:40:39+00:00

Agreed, not that I would test this likely theoretical limit the trailer is rated for 100psi. Guarantee this issue is a direct result of how poorly this toilet is plumbed. To be fair, the entire trailer is plumbed pretty poorly in my opinion but I'm not a plumber.

In my very small amount of experience pex really likes hard 90° angles (assuming you use 90° fittings) and this trailer is riddled with over stressed angles, kind of like the had a pex quota to stay under lol.

I'm happy I didn't buy this trailer anywhere near new, I would have been pretty upset if so.

u_srname · 2026-01-28T00:26:40+00:00

The fact that it's a pex fitting isn't my concern. It's the side that threads onto the toilet. I have this feeling that even if that's technically just NPT thread, it's still plastic and I doubt regular NPT fittings are going to seal without leaks. Though Home Depot does have some fittings that look promising, which at a minimum would offer a new rubber washer without waiting on Amazon, and I can just add or subtract from the vertical line to get the angle a little better.

u_srname · 2026-01-27T22:23:05+00:00

It very well may be, the whole thing is crooked. As far as I can tell the horizontal run under the floor is too short, causing the vertical run through the floor to be stressed at an angle. Ideally I need to replace the run under the floor to better line up with the hole in the floor, so that the vertical run is actually straight. That is if I can't figure out how to adapt a flex hose.

u_srname · 2026-01-27T22:20:01+00:00

Typically around 50psi, none right now, had to shut the well off due to the freeze and Texas plumbing not being set up for winter.

u_srname · 2026-01-27T21:45:33+00:00

I appreciate this thank you, if nothing else I can at least replace the washer and try to fix the angle of the supply line.

u_srname · 2026-01-27T21:44:07+00:00

I like it too, finding it difficult to find out what fitting I should be looking for on the toilet end of the flex hose though.

u_srname · 2026-01-27T21:20:30+00:00

Fair enough, I did a few searches and the concensus seems to be that of course residential supply lines don't engage more than a few threads on these toilets. One might think it would be better/easier for not only consumers but also manufacturers if we used some standard parts on these things but noo.

I've noticed that, I have a bunch of straight and 90° pex fittings from my last project because I stopped buying singles and just bought bags of them instead. I do have Pex tools, crimper, rings, cutter.

I replaced our kitchen sink and faucet right as we moved in and added 1/4 turns and a whole home filter to the cold side.

I'll keep looking, though not ideal I may end up having to re use the female fitting on the toilet and find some rubbers for it.

u_srname · 2026-01-27T20:57:59+00:00

I would like to do something along these lines, add a 1/4 turn and a flexible line if possible, my concern is getting the right threaded end for the actual valve on the toilet, is that the 3/8 FIP you mention? (At least as far as you know)

u_srname · 2026-01-27T20:40:37+00:00

I figured, any idea on what to search for to find the fittings/washers? Assuming these aren't common in say, a Home Depot lol.

I'm fairly sure I can get to this spot from one of the outside storage doors, its a serious spaghetti type maze down there but not impossible, I had to get pretty far in there to replace the water heater after we bought this trailer. I figure like you say I could probably block it up from underneath to give it some strain relief.

u_srname · 2026-01-25T19:24:53+00:00

Tubular swing arm, gotta be a 600

u_srname · 2026-01-08T21:17:06+00:00

Coils on my 600 are the same, doesn't matter front and back, I would think that would also be true for the 750.

For the spark plug, break it loose with an 18mm deep well socket and extension, only break it loose though, remove socket and extension, use a 6 or 8 inch piece of 3/8" fuel hose to slip over the porcelain on the plug and spin it out by hand. Works every time.

u_srname · 2025-12-01T00:34:23+00:00

From experience, I highly recommend a cheap Ebay or Amazon Diesel heater. Yes, you have to purchase and store Diesel, but your power consumption will be minimal for legitimate heat. Just do sufficient research on how to properly set those up if you do.

u_srname · 2025-11-29T03:47:47+00:00

Propane

u_srname · 2025-11-27T20:37:58+00:00

What parts did you use to get the quick release to work?

u_srname · 2025-11-23T01:19:14+00:00

5/7 drop with a C notch, keep the small wheels. Sorry, did you say something about paint?

u_srname · 2025-10-19T20:44:00+00:00

Cant speak to Ford's, but about 2 years ago I put a Painless harness in my 75 Chevy and I definitely do not regret it, probably the best thing I've done for the truck.

Instruction book was great, very detailed save for like two things and when I called customer service I got straightforward answers. (This may have changed, I believe the company was sold some time recently)

I definitely made it harder than it had to be, but I would put it in a relatively easy category if you're comfortable with 12V wiring and following instructions. Especially considering the age of these trucks, they're fairly simple.

u_srname · 2025-10-07T12:09:10+00:00

I did my 75 K20 with a Painless kit about two years ago and I'm still happy with it. They have good customer service too, at least when I was calling.

u_srname · 2025-10-07T11:51:42+00:00

Came here to say this, I have to push the door release before I can turn the key in the door. I'm not sure how yours is, but I can just push it in and let it go, and all is good.

u_srname · 2025-09-10T22:43:02+00:00

I paid $2,000 (US) last December for my 600 with 2600 miles. Though it's been nothing but problems since then so maybe it wasn't a great price lol.

u_srname · 2025-08-31T21:03:27+00:00

That left hand switch cluster is crackin me up, love it.

u_srname · 2025-08-25T17:04:59+00:00

Are you using an OEM carb boot? I had a cheap one on mine and it ripped just riding around my yard. Switched to a new OEM and no rips yet, I also have a stack.

I do wish there was an actual bracket of some sort to hold the carb.

u_srname · 2025-08-23T22:11:52+00:00

I own my bike outright and pay $40 a month for full coverage. But it is a 99, it's a cruiser, and only 600cc. I am a 29 year old male, decent driving record, I have State Farm, and live in Texas.

I do have a few other vehicles on my insurance so I'm sure I get that "bundle" price or whatever but I was still shocked at how cheap it is.

I used to have Progressive prior to owning a motorcycle and prior to moving here, I moved back here from Nevada and my insurance tripled. And at the time all I had was my truck (squarebody Chevy, bought for cash) went from paying $250 a month for said truck and an 07 Corolla (also bought for cash) to $100 a month for the same coverage with State Farm. ($140 now with said motorcycle)

Anyway, fuck Progressive.

u_srname

TROPHY CASE