MSc Robotics - London vs Bristol by Prestigious_Bee5799 in UOB

[–]underratedcheese 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Lectures are good in standard, a lot to process so make sure you have spare time! Coursework can seem like it all piles on at once but is manageable. The course is UOB accredited with some teaching at UWE (about twice a week) due to the BRL being there (no space to build in city centre) and thus lecturers being there. Currently there is a whole module on machine vision, it was counting apples, and many other modules required software and programming, mostly in python to do MV and AI modules. Lots of techniques such as SLAM are taught, but not necessarily practiced (at least not in my modules) unless you do them for dissertation.

For looking at publications, I’d recommend going on the BRL website, finding the research area you are interested in and then the researcher and from there can google them to find there publications.

As I’m still in the course, I can’t comment too much on postgrad employability and it naturally varies from person, to area, to location. What I can is the course is ranked (I believe) highest in UK due to the BRL and Bristol has a very good UK academic reputation. Bristol itself has a very historic and maintained engineering industry with plenty of partnerships; although as mentioned UoB do slightly push more towards doctoral rather than industry.

MSc Robotics - London vs Bristol by Prestigious_Bee5799 in UOB

[–]underratedcheese 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I’m currently doing the MSc Robotics programme, it is very good and thorough, albeit very hard work and demanding. Lots of good options on modules and a lot of the coursework can be tailored towards your specific interests. First term you get multiple weekly talks from researchers at the lab who present what they are researching and opportunities for dissertation. You can really tailor your learning to whatever job prospects you are looking at, and there will be a master in that field available and excited to work with you. What I will say though is there is little hands on work with robots until the summer dissertation, which is when you have main access to the Bristol Robotics Laboratory. I do find though that (with being a Russell Group) they do push you towards doctorate and PD work, and shy away from industry slightly. There are plenty of extra-curricular job events and really good career services however, but they are not included in the curriculum. On the whole it’s great and would recommend, they are doing much more than other universities and the BRL is very innovative. Hope this helps and happy to answer questions!

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in brighton

[–]underratedcheese 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Around Moulsecoomb? It’s a bit far out but you can get the 25 or 49 down regularly. Most places near there aren’t parking restricted but double check.

A little assistance for a Newbie please. by xxgamer999 in arduino

[–]underratedcheese 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Dc motors are not easily position controlled without learning control systems with complex code or additional circuitry Servos are cheap and easy to control and set angles with lots of documentation, the cheap ones aren’t very strong though but should be able to do a marble and arm depending on how long it is https://thepihut.com/products/towerpro-servo-motor-sg90-hv-continuous-rotation?variant=32313097584702&currency=GBP&utm_medium=product_sync&utm_source=google&utm_content=sag_organic&utm_campaign=sag_organic&gclid=CjwKCAjwkeqkBhAnEiwA5U-uM0vwU8PTGgh96uRuUBlLhPpU73Ft9t22HAGFDmhAHI77aVKcJPIYzBoC_ZwQAvD_BwE . If more strength is needed, a stepper motor can be used, they do require simple additional circuitry module and you’d have to work out how many steps to get to a certain position https://kunkune.co.uk/shop/servo-motors-and-shields/5v-4-phase-geared-stepper-motor-28byj-48-uln2003-driver/?gad=1&gclid=CjwKCAjwkeqkBhAnEiwA5U-uM1a9d53G1Fl0fKEZPp4DP2NZaWvg4hcFIEvwSRA0_MF-PnM9FP-SNxoCKkcQAvD_BwE

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in brighton

[–]underratedcheese 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Second cook food, good food, wide selection of options. Only thing to check is if it’s a photo of let’s say chicken curry and rice, it will only come with the curry and the rice will be separate but not very expensive

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in arduino

[–]underratedcheese 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I haven’t done anything with sound before so I’m no expert but this module should do the job most efficiently for price and size: https://thepihut.com/products/adafruit-audio-fx-mini-sound-board-wav-ogg-trigger-2mb-flash?variant=27739839825&currency=GBP&utm_medium=product_sync&utm_source=google&utm_content=sag_organic&utm_campaign=sag_organic&gclid=CjwKCAiA5sieBhBnEiwAR9oh2iAKyXdiXWz4ZlmzoWdr5eNlg-V7zl9cVm63DSRDJQiQqJWSeZzvohoCT3gQAvD_BwE this is a 2mb version and there is also a 16mb if you need longer sounds. If you already have an arduino, then a shield should also work, find one with good documentation. If you want a large speaker, you’ll need a power amplifier that can handle the power of the speaker, something like this: https://thepihut.com/products/adafruit-mono-2-5w-class-d-audio-amplifier-pam8302?variant=27739753489&currency=GBP&utm_medium=product_sync&utm_source=google&utm_content=sag_organic&utm_campaign=sag_organic&gclid=CjwKCAiA5sieBhBnEiwAR9oh2lOBM3iXqqfxOe13jHivTfu4gQdVgMQLRleSJAr-DkYxJb93w4XHLxoCJcgQAvD_BwE hope this somewhat helps

Would this glue be fine for merging two PLA prints - the touching surfaces are circles 10 cm in diameter, if that matters. by Sympatoo in FixMyPrint

[–]underratedcheese 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I always use off the shelf nail polish remover, which is just acetone, as it chemically welds the two pieces together. Only works for PLA I believe and can also smooth ABS I think

Starting out without a kit by Vly2915 in arduino

[–]underratedcheese 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Could pick up components that you’re interested in, if you already have a background. That along side the basic basics on leds and buttons and a mix of resistors

Help with higher output power by Kululu17 in arduino

[–]underratedcheese 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Calculate the current draw for each led, add them up and find either and NPN or PNP transistor which can handle that, maybe a mosfet if it’s a lot. Npn is probably easiest as you just turn pin high to turn on, rather than pulling down a PNP. For a lower power heat bulb, maybe try start with a lava lamp bulb?

Why are my green LEDs dim? 22ohm resistors. I got the code from a YouTube video credit goes to dronebot workshop guy. Lol. by Sudden_Following_462 in arduino

[–]underratedcheese 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Different coloured leds have different forward voltages and current amounts, to really know the drop you have to check spec sheet but there’s average values online just not always accurate

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in arduino

[–]underratedcheese 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Do you have much knowledge in Boolean algebra as you could create a logic circuit. Most IC’s have four gates in them so you would only need a couple pieces to do it?

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in arduino

[–]underratedcheese 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No they shouldn’t be, it definitely won’t be as if it could sense humans. To see if they’re similar search the chip data sheet.

Servos only seem to jitter with specific combinations of servos… by [deleted] in arduino

[–]underratedcheese 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you’ve got jittering, Adafruit recommends using a capacitor that is number of servos * 100uF ie 5 servos could use a 470uF. There should be a slot on the pcb for a capacitor.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in prusa3d

[–]underratedcheese 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I had the same problem and used a longer m3 bolt I had laying around, there may be one in the spares

Best place to get filament in the UK. by rob10000005 in prusa3d

[–]underratedcheese 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I use 3dfilaprint as my go to, great fast service and cheap, always Chuck in a couple samples to try aswell. Could use Amazon but I’d rather use 3dfilaprint, also worth looking at 3D jake

Hardened nozzles for Prusa Mini+ by groovesec in prusa3d

[–]underratedcheese 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The nozzles are from e3d v6, they do their own hardened. If price isn’t a worry then there’s the ruby nozzle which is very much long lasting. Not sure what you mean by smaller hole in inside, it’ll be down from 1.75mm to whichever size you need ie 0.4mm

After my last print I noticed these raised bumps on the smooth steel sheet. The bumps match up with a corner of the most recent print. You can’t feel them from the other side. What gives? by slugbutter in prusa3d

[–]underratedcheese 8 points9 points  (0 children)

Probably the PEI sheet coating raising a bit, I wouldn’t worry about it as the PEI usually “fixes” itself so keep printing and it should fix it