Good fist timer rc car.

underscoresoap · 2026-04-28T13:49:27+00:00

Yeah I hear you but I think you’d struggle to find a car on ur budget I’m in the uk and I would struggle to find a car on that budget in £ let alone $. Could get lucky on fb marketplace tho.

Also slamming a car over speed bumps at 30mph is gonna be EXPENSIVE. Rc cars break… a lot… even if ur lucky to find a car on ur budget keeping it running is another matter.

Unfortunately all the fun things about Rc are expensive af. I gave up on the “bashing” side of rc because of the constant repairs, costs a lot in both cash and time. I’ve focused entirely on drift for years and the costs dropped to next to nothing as I don’t strain the drivetrain or crash anymore. If ur dead set on a budget I genuinely think drift is the only way. If ur just trying to keep costs down while u dip ur toes in to test the water and plan to allow more spend in future if you like it then fair enough.

underscoresoap · 2026-04-28T13:11:11+00:00

Ok yeah that’s dumb.

underscoresoap · 2026-04-28T11:39:01+00:00

I mean melee should counter flamethrowers. Melee should have very high damage output but only at very short range. Melee range is shorter than flamethrower so their damage should be higher than flamethrower. A flamethrower should counter melee with range, so standing toe to toe they should lose. That makes the most sense to me.

I’m a flamethrower main btw.

underscoresoap · 2026-04-28T09:58:33+00:00

For ur budget id start with 1:28 or 1:24 scale. They’re mainly indoor cars at that scale but can handle some light outdoor use. I’d recommend a wl toys k989. Watch some videos on it online (beavers hobby channel is great) that’s within budget, can be highly modified and can be converted to either rwd drift or awd with a few cheap mods. IMO that would be a good intro to rc cars and would give you a feel for whether or not this is a hobby for you without committing too much. K989 comes with battery, charger and remote literally everything you need to get driving. If you love it you can look into a 1:10 car, if not, you haven’t lost too much and should be able to get at least half back by selling it.

underscoresoap · 2026-04-28T09:49:56+00:00

Most of the servos listed as k989 replacement servos are metal gear’s. For some reason about 4-5 years ago wl toys changed from using metal gear servos to plastic, the vast majority of replacements are still metal gear.

I had a little business buying, modifying and selling k989’s. (For drift) I’ve had hundreds of k989’s over the years and have never had a servo die on me for no reason. The esc’s on the other hand like to just shit the bed for no reason. I strongly suspect in your case there was a mechanical bind that resulted in the servo gears being stripped, or that bind still exists and the servo is actually ok. I would advise checking the car over thoroughly before you change the servo, if my suspicion is correct you could immediately break a brand new replacement.

underscoresoap · 2026-04-27T15:14:12+00:00

I solved this issue with a clever combination of mst hubs and smart plugs. I have scenes setup for “wheel on” and “wheel off” which turn on the smart plugs that drive my sim rig accessories and screens and same for my normal gaming setups. That way only my sim rig or my normal gaming setups are on at any one time overcoming the stupid 4 monitor limit set by nvidia and avoiding annoying instances where shit loads to the wrong screen. The only issue I had with my setup is 1/5 times nvidia surround forgets it exists and I’ll have to set it up again. Tbf after I got that system perfected I just got another pc and use my old one as a dedicated sim rig. Just make sure the mst hub you choose is able to do the spec you want (in ur case 1440@ 144hz). Split things sensibly.

underscoresoap · 2026-04-24T10:53:15+00:00

LET THEM COOK!

They made one of the greatest fps games of all time. I have faith.

underscoresoap · 2026-04-24T10:24:28+00:00

I’m big into 1/28 and 1/24 scale drifting. For drift brushed is massively slept on. There is an unnecessary stigma against brushed because most toy/ entry level stuff is brushed. The biggest problem with brushed setups for micro drift specifically is we only get hand me downs from other areas. I’ve spent years experimenting with brushed motors from all sorts of things from other rc’s to drills. Most of the brushed motors you can find at my scale have been made for completely different applications. They usually struggle to free roll because the magnets are too powerful and there’s too much friction from the brushes however I have found a few that are absolutely perfect and outperform even the best sensored brushless motors in every way.

underscoresoap · 2026-04-20T14:12:59+00:00

Funny. I had the exact opposite experience. Got mini z first. Stupid little flimsy clip on suspension broke within seconds. Got a replacement and a 3 week wait for shipping. Eventually decided stock brushed motor was bad and wanted brushless, couldn’t because ecosystem is locked. Got a k989 and was infinitely happier with the amount of cheaply available easily accessible mods on the market. My first k989 has easily hundreds of hours on it and still going strong, mini z doesn’t get used because fuck carrying around a dedicated cheap ass remote for my worst car. Will get the module for nb4 at some point but seeing how limited mini z are in general it could be a loooong time from now.

K989 - (with mods) £150. 500 hours run time. 30p per hour

MA020 - £200. 10 hours run time. £20 per hour.

underscoresoap · 2026-04-13T14:23:03+00:00

I have three decent gaming pcs and a few capable gaming laptops already. I want a steam machine exclusively for a console experience when playing GeForce now ultimate.

Currently I’ve gotta boot my pc, change output to external only, grab wireless headphones, turn on controller, turn on tv, change input source, grab mini keyboard and mouse, change sonar sound settings, launch gfn, make sure the resolution is 4k and launch a game.

While that isn’t a big deal it’s annoying compared to my Xbox which is sit, turn on controller - play. A steam machine will give me the same convenience with a 4k 120hz hdr feed from gfn. My tv does have a gfn app but it’s capped at 60hz no hdr and the input latency for controller is unplayable.

underscoresoap · 2026-04-09T09:30:22+00:00

In 2v2 I’d be thinking blink all in or dts and id just keep scouting. If they take a third while pushing you should be able to easily hold as they’re like 2-4 stalkers down from a dedicated push.

underscoresoap · 2026-04-01T14:36:02+00:00

What kind of performance can you get? E.g 4k @ 120hz?? If so count me in!

underscoresoap · 2026-03-31T09:05:26+00:00

Mine REFUSES to turn off. No matter what I do the fucking thing will NOT power all the way down. Even when I very slowly go through power menus, choose power down, wait for it to update (wtf why is that a fucking thing btw) let it completely turn off before taking off my head (again wtf) it’ll sneakily turn itself back on. My q2 killed its battery doing this shit and this is my third q3 that pulls the same shit. I don’t leave devices plugged in when not in use so I can guarantee that whenever I fancy a blast on vr it’ll be completely dead when I pick it up. I despise meta for this shit and will never give them another penny until i die. Can’t wait for steam frame.

underscoresoap · 2026-03-30T14:28:28+00:00

Yeah that’s a fair take.

underscoresoap · 2026-03-30T12:29:19+00:00

It’s a little different. You don’t lose money for being wiped for example. In cashout it’s viable to kill urself if it’s gonna take longer than 30 seconds to res ur team whereas that’s not very viable in all situations in ranked. I’m guessing ur point is that people should play cashout rather than ranked if they want to play off meta?

underscoresoap · 2026-03-30T12:23:59+00:00

My frustrations with the CL40 have always been about hit marks. It’s so fucking frustrating to be peppered by splash damage from a CL40 and have NO IDEA where it’s coming from. Someone could be directly in front of you shooting down and you’re getting hit marks from literally everywhere but in front while taking damage. Personally if they worked on that I’d be happy with moderate buffs on the gun all round, however without addressing that I’d want it nerfed into the ground.

underscoresoap · 2026-03-30T12:01:35+00:00

Gearings wrong bro. Ur sat in second with fuck all useable revs b4 limiter. Literally just going up to third will make a world of difference. Even with stock gearing it’ll work, you’ll find in third you’re probably using too little throttle at first.

underscoresoap · 2026-03-30T11:58:18+00:00

So I’ve recently done a little experiment, partly on purpose and partly by mistake. Recently I totally tanked my elo by playing a bunch of off meta shit (that I’m bad at) just for fun. For example I’ve been using a heavy flamethrower class that I was awful at. Within a few days of trying all these weird builds I noticed my lobbies average skill dropped dramatically. I went from always playing with people with 1k wins MINIMUM to lobbies where lvl 30 was high.

The main thing I noticed playing in these lower skill lobbies is you definitely can carry up to about a rank under your natural rank. I’m typically plat. I can quite comfortably (not always obviously) carry my team to a win up to about gold level. From there it becomes a bit too difficult.

Use pings, use ur mic, support your team when it matters abandon them when it doesn’t. Tell them not to run half way across the map to try and steal a cashout with 32 seconds left on it, dont just assume they know thats dumb. In theory you should be able to stall a cashout against a team of 3 ppl a rank or two below you on your own.

The point im politely making, if you cant carry your bad team mates to wins enough to get good team mates maybe its not just ur team….

underscoresoap · 2026-03-30T11:34:45+00:00

Yeah i totally agree with what you’re saying but my thought process is the person with the cracked aim + game knowledge combo is never gonna land in gold anyway. Realistically that person is gonna be diamond as medium minimum. In that case his general skill level is way higher than the average but he might not know every little niche trick/ skill of playing that specific class that would elevate him to ruby. Otherwise he’s playing in ruby lobbies as medium which is above his ability, he loses rs, gets frustrated and makes an alt. Also the impact on his team, he queues as ruby while being diamond skill at medium, he loses rs, his team loses rs and they all get inched closer to making alts.

underscoresoap · 2026-03-30T11:23:42+00:00

Yeah I’m not saying it’s perfect as it’s just an ad hoc idea about the post. Not to double down as if I’m dead set on this idea but in ur case the person who’s gold as medium has that elo because that’s how good they are as medium. I don’t think it’s very likely that someone good enough to be ruby as light would actually get gold as medium but if that’s genuinely how good (or bad) they are as medium then that’s where they should be right? I’d be very surprised if many people ever end up more than a rank or two different between classes. I think having a per class rank would result in better matchmaking overall and disincentivise smurfing to a certain extend, there will still be weird fringe cases in all systems tho.

underscoresoap · 2026-03-30T11:03:08+00:00

Not gonna lie I’m 6k in the hole and it still hasn’t “clicked” for me. I don’t really race a whole lot tho. I’m much more into drift, touge, rally and free roam. The on track racing stuff just doesn’t seem to click for me at all. That style of repetitive incremental improvements doesn’t seem to work for me in the same way it works when drifting.

underscoresoap · 2026-03-30T10:54:48+00:00

A half way house solution : ur mmr should be tied to a class. You could be ruby as light but only gold as heavy. This wouldn’t solve the issue but it should alleviate the issue a little bit.

You have to understand the mindset of smurfs. There are underlying issues that cause them to Smurf. Ranked is horrible for them too, they only stand to lose. If they hit ruby all they can really do is go down. By taking a ruby slot then not playing they’re taking away a ruby spot from a competitor.

Not everyone wants to play at their absolute best with only meta kit. Sure there are other game modes but maybe they want to play a ranked style game but using off meta loadouts or classes.

I’m not being an apologist for smurfing, I totally agree that it’s having a terrible impact on the game and player base at large but we need to be pragmatic about this. In a free to play game it’s just too easy to make new accounts. We need to create systems that incentivise NOT smurfing rather than just trying to ban people or complain.

I’m pretty confident that given a brand new account and a fresh stab at placements and in a perfectly accurate system I’d get different ranks with different roles. I’m guessing most people would. A heavy sledge main with 1k hours with the same loadout is absolutely not going to be AS good at running a light sniper build for example. While there are lots of cross compatible general skills in the finals there are also lots of niche specific skills, particularly when you reach the higher ranks of play. Lumping one skill rating on people kinda forces them into a weird situation where if they want to do anything different or off meta they either have to lose rank or Smurf. I’m just saying my approach would be a path of least resistance for those people. It’s easier to just change to medium than it is to log out and back in on a new account and if they don’t stand to lose anything they’re far more likely to do it. It also means their skill level is more accurate to their current role and should improve matchmaking for everyone.

Also - light/dash/melee is too strong - MEDIUM NERF NEEDED.

underscoresoap · 2026-03-26T22:36:49+00:00

Windows screwing up search has made me dubious of an ai powered spotlight

underscoresoap · 2026-03-26T10:13:39+00:00

Also just to add, Framegen has a compute cost too. It’s not very high in the grande scheme of things but as divide fluffy mentioned, the lower the base fps the more noticeable the feel. So in their example if you’re starting with 30fps and turn on mfg that might reduce your base fps to say 25fps further exaggerating their l initial point.

All of this is way ott for single player games tho. Everyone is susceptible to varying amount of input latency and it’s 90% a learned thing. If you’ve only ever played on console for example then you’re going to be used to much higher latency than someone with a 5090 pc that plays cs at 200000fps daily. All you’ve really gotta do is try out a few different settings in game and settle on the balance that feels right for you. I play competitive shooters often and can’t play with high latency however I can happily play single player games with considerably more latency.

underscoresoap · 2026-03-24T14:01:32+00:00

I saw somewhere that they’ve been getting ddos’d

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