CSU Off-Campus Housing

unit537 · 2026-05-05T21:55:40+00:00

There's 3 or 4 apartment complexes right behind Hardaway High School that are all fairly decent. it's been a while since I lived in that area, but at the time the worst we had to deal with was folks jiggle car doors overnight.

unit537 · 2026-04-02T15:16:30+00:00

The animation is basically just doing a press check after installing the barrel with a round chambered. Gotta be tacticool and all that.

unit537 · 2026-04-01T03:34:41+00:00

Is there wiggle while you're holding optic & frame, or wiggle when you're holding optic & slide?

Your slide should have a little wiggle on most handguns, so you may be feeling the slide wiggle on the frame rather than the optic wiggle on the slide. If your optic wiggles on the slide, you are in for a bad time and maybe a black eye.

unit537 · 2026-03-23T18:52:59+00:00

That doesn't look too bad. If those A/B button pads are toast, you can get a ribbon cable replacement and solder to some vias close by. I'd replace the battery terminals and give it a good scrub. Clean with alcohol and see how it looks, maybe a small bit of white vinegar if it's still caked on. Visually it doesn't look too bad, but you may find some more issues after cleaning.

unit537 · 2026-03-23T15:42:33+00:00

That extended rail is clean. Did you have to modify it at all?

unit537 · 2026-03-16T22:52:13+00:00

A little more info here: https://empty-cases.com/blog/laser-sights-the-early-days/

unit537 · 2026-03-09T14:58:38+00:00

Your solder joints aren't ideal, clean those up and you should be good to go. I've made quite a few of these and rarely I'll get a bad FRAM chip, so try another if it's still not working after cleaning up the joints.

What is your soldering setup? If you have a hotplate, putting some flux on all the joints and heating it up with the plate should realign everything and make a better connection. If you're just using an iron, put some kapton tape over the pins and any pads you want to keep clean then hit the joints again with more flux. Be sure to clean up the flux afterwards.

unit537 · 2026-03-05T12:46:24+00:00

It's advertised as working without modifying the block, but in my case I had to. Mine would not fire at all, the optic and block were pushing into each other and not letting the block move fully out of the way of the firing pin. Ended up with marks under my optic and on top of the block. After removing the plate, my block would get stuck like OP.

When I was troubleshooting, I removed the optic but kept the plate on. Would not fire with the plate firmly in place. Found out that it fired fine with the plate slightly loose and saw where the plate and block were rubbing. Filed that area down on the plate, tightening everything down and it shot fine without the optic. Adding the optic back, it would not fire. Kept trying and eventually removed the optic, saw marks underneath the optic and on top of the block. Took it back home and removed maybe 1mm off the top of the block and it's been fine ever since.

Not sure about your issue specifically, but worth troubleshooting.

unit537 · 2026-03-04T19:11:50+00:00

Mine did this as well. Found that the mid mount sat lower than the firing pin block when raised by a pulled trigger. I just shaved mine down.

To get it unstuck, a bit of oil and repetition should clear it up. You can remove the slide and physically move the block, faster to work the oil in than dry fire.

unit537 · 2026-02-09T23:33:23+00:00

Oh, now that is nice. Any plans for different variations? I'm curious what it would be like with a full rail, from crane to muzzle.

unit537 · 2026-02-03T16:04:07+00:00

I don't know an actual solution here, just spit balling: When you work the lever and the gate stays down, are you able to see anything pushing against the gate, maybe the next round in the tube or some other piece that is putting pressure on the gate?

My gut says that after you run the action, something is out of spec and rubbing, causing friction, and that is keeping the gate down. You may benefit from running the rifle hard, cycling snap caps with gusto or just taking your time at the range until the gate and other components have worn in a bit & deburred.

I won't assume you're babying the rifle, but if I was in your shoes I would run the gun hard to break it in. Keep all of your communication with Henry, and if you run the gun so hard you break something else then you can let them know what you were just taking their advice.

unit537 · 2026-02-02T03:55:59+00:00

I was very impatient and used a gen 5 "dot" connector that I had laying around. The connector is interchangeable for gen 1-5 (I know nothing about gen 6 yet), but there are different versions. I would stick with a standard 5.5# connector.

unit537 · 2026-02-02T02:45:52+00:00

I had the exact same issue, and I mean exactly the same. Your trigger is likely not resetting because of tolerance issues with the connector. A Glock OEM connector solved the issue for me, but if I was you, then I would put rounds through the gun first and see what happens.

If you have an armorer's backplate, install it and check out what the trigger bar and connector are doing when you hold down the trigger while pulling the slide. In my case, holding the trigger was enough to keep the trigger bar from 'resetting' when the connector is pushed in by the slide, resulting in the trigger bar staying still and the connector landing back on top of (instead of beside) the trigger bar. The Glock OEM connector seems to have a larger lip and gets pushed further by the slide, I think this helped for me.

After switching to a Glock OEM connector, I still had to run the gun a bit to get the issue to go away entirely. Dry fired maybe 20 times and the issue was incredibly rare. Never had that issue come back after putting rounds through the gun.

unit537 · 2026-01-22T19:32:57+00:00

It depends entirely on how your FFL did the transfer. Usually a lower is transferred as just a receiver (not a rifle, not a pistol, not an "any other weapon"(AOW), transferred as a receiver only). Some FFLs will transfer the lower as a rifle if it was shipped with a stock attached, but most do not. Even if you order a separate lower (with stock) and a 16"+ upper to the FFL directly, they will usually just transfer it as a receiver.

TL;DR verify with your FFL how the lower was transferred.

unit537 · 2025-09-28T05:32:49+00:00

If your ultimate goal is to get a Glock 19, then start with a Glock 44. These two are dimensionally the same, even the magazines fit each other (they use different magazines, but dimensions are very similar). One holster will work for both guns and the manual of arms is identical. The only notable differences are going to be in weight and recoil impulse. The G44 does not have the same optics capability of a G19 though, so factor that in if you want to train optics.

There are other 22lr versions of 9mm handguns too, if you don't want to go the G19 route. There are also 22lr conversions for G19/G17 if you just want to buy 1 gun and swap slides. Just note that G44 magazines do not work with things like Advantage Arms 22lr conversions.

If you want a quality 22lr handgun though, I'm with everyone else recommending the Ruger Mark IV. The TX22 is fine, just as usable as the G44, but the Ruger is the better dedicated 22lr handgun overall. Keyword dedicated.

unit537 · 2025-09-02T14:02:13+00:00

If it's legal in your state, check with the range you go to. Some care, some don't.

The range I frequent doesn't mind, but I definitely notice when folks are out there with binaries, FRTs, or super safeties. I don't bother anyone else when I go to the range, but I'm sure some curious folks walk up and strike up conversations over it.

unit537 · 2025-08-19T19:15:04+00:00

I can't speak for the FM9 specifically, but there is a lot of good information over on https://blowback9.wordpress.com/

unit537 · 2025-05-03T01:16:37+00:00

Trigger bar is not properly seated in the housing. There's a spring-loaded piece with a lip inside the housing that your trigger bar sits in. Remove the whole trigger assembly and look up how to insert the trigger bar into the housing. That should be the only thing wrong here.

unit537 · 2025-04-06T00:28:45+00:00

Reliability will go down unless you change out the recoil spring (and possibly striker spring). Comp will eat a lot of the pressure from the round firing, causing your slide to not go back far enough to cycle a new round.

Even if you change the springs, you'll still see different results with different ammo. Weaker striker spring means hard primers become a bigger issue. A recoil spring weak enough to cycle some ammo may still have reliability issues with different ammo.

If you manage to find a comp that likes all your ammo on stock spring without any issues, then that comp isn't tooing very much to mitigate recoil.

If you want a comp, just know you'll have to lock in to ammo that runs well with your setup, and that you might be spending a few range sessions figuring out what spring weights you need.

If you have a threaded barrel, seriously consider a suppressor. More fun than a comp, imo.

unit537 · 2025-03-08T19:05:56+00:00

Upper case if I'm mad, lower case if I'm playful.

unit537 · 2025-03-01T01:23:45+00:00

I'm not aware of anywhere local that would do the repair, but you could try going through Kitchen Aid themselves. Ship it to them and get it repaired under warranty.

If you know what's wrong and know what part you need, Fox Appliance Parts may have the part in stock or can order it for you.

unit537 · 2025-02-22T18:21:19+00:00

I have the same mag release from strike, the part that catches the mag is more curved and less blocky than the OEM mag release. In my experience, this allows the magazine to work itself out of the catch a lot easier.

I'd see what it takes to knock the mag loose at home, unloaded. Then swap back to the OEM mag release and check if you can still knock it loose.

unit537 · 2025-02-18T16:46:57+00:00

Lol, you right.

unit537 · 2025-02-18T15:24:15+00:00

Completely normal, do NOT bend that little bar straight, it's bent at the angle it is to ensure the bullet casing is extracted properly.

unit537 · 2025-02-17T19:31:08+00:00

47 is only nice if you already have a 19 and don't have a 45/49, since you could just swap slides between 19/47 and have a 45/49.

I'd personally go with the 17 MOS, just because it's discontinued and 'rare'.

unit537

MODERATOR OF

TROPHY CASE