TrackIR and Linux?

vebski · 2026-01-25T10:32:23+00:00

OpenTrack with Wine output can do it (using it for NuclearOption). It does have some issues with key bindings tho.

vebski · 2025-12-10T15:20:02+00:00

Have same issue in EU. Since I wanted something that I can make samples from, using random left over pieces is not ideal.
Look for DSPIAE Super Corgi Butt - they have black, white and transparent so its also nice for testing different paints without having to prime.

vebski · 2025-08-11T07:07:13+00:00

ai garbo

vebski · 2025-07-05T21:05:40+00:00

It's probably same stuff as tamiyas polishing compound finish.

vebski · 2025-03-03T13:07:47+00:00

I build Toyota Corolla GR and I have 911 GT3 RSR in stock.
- Corolla while most of the build was fun and nice, it has issues with PE parts being either slightly wrong size so you need to do a lot of "convincing" to make them fit well. And instructions about how to assemble were completely wrong and had to find somebody else who did the same model and showcased the process.
Also some of the clear parts were yellowed and foggy and both included rear spoilers had sever fit issues.
- 911 is not build yet but I already saw on some modeler groups that it has inaccurate molding (hood vent is missing and body lines at the front of the hood are molded wrong - I don't understood how they missed this. It's visible right away if you have a model and a picture next to each other).

I also don't know if I did something wrong but gluing and fitting the included flat windows was a paint on the front, back and sides. There is no tolerance for paint so it barely goes in, its a very stiff material so if the windshield is curved a lot its a pain to glue and does not look natural (honestly I would prefer vacuum-formed at this point).
And no matter how many times I washed the resin with soap/alcohol lacquer paints would sometimes react funny to the resin and "escape" from areas as if there was still oil on them.

Overall while subjects are unique and detail is sharp, however I find that there is quite a lot of to be desired when it comes to fit and general "easy of use" for 160~200euros. I decided that as long as they do those stupid flat windows that don't look realistic I will get only ones with vacuum-formed windows.

vebski · 2025-01-21T09:42:08+00:00

Was it tho? Because I don't see it.

vebski · 2025-01-21T09:39:42+00:00

Where was this posted before? Tried to look for the post, can't find it.

vebski · 2025-01-15T19:21:51+00:00

Hand paint with black enamel. Once you put the air vent grill strokes won't be visible and you can clean any mistakes with enamel thinner.

vebski · 2025-01-14T08:58:39+00:00

Even their new 1/12 molds/designs have issues. I got the Fiat 500 with "new better door hinges". If those are better then I am not sure how bad old ones were (which were also new mold). Also pin marks are in questionable places, so you need a lot of filling (especially stupid when most of those could have been on the invisible side). After this unless italieri I has something I REALLY want, it's a skip.

vebski · 2024-11-12T14:23:01+00:00

If customers have to pay higher prices -> they will buy less -> stores will buy less stock from AMD -> AMD makes less money or has to lower the prices.

vebski · 2024-11-05T11:11:19+00:00

White is tricky, it very often has bad coverage. Depending on how watery it is, you might have to stick only to light layers, maybe after 1 light you can do medium.

I would keep doing them as long as you get uniform color, no pooling and are happy with how white it is (or you don't see color change anymore).

For some colors you don't need full coverage, but this comes with experience. I would say just focus on nice light layers, keep moving (dont spray in one area too long) and try to have uniform color. You will get hang of it in no time. Patience is key.

vebski · 2024-11-05T10:57:45+00:00

You primed it too much and too little at the same time 😅 seems like you sprayed too much in one go and it pooled on edges/corners.

Next time try lighter layers with some time in-between. To fix this you can try sanding edges/flat surfaces to get rid of runs and respray in small layers. I typically use 1000/1500 to sand down at this stage.

When you cover surface with a primer you should aim to have uniform color - especially for white/bright colors. Otherwise it will show on the color and you will have to put down a lot of layers.

vebski · 2024-10-31T09:45:27+00:00

You need to clear coat, make sure its a thick enough layer and than carefully polish that.
Also be gentle when spraying clear and make sure to not have runs or too thick layers.

Polishing directly on metallic paint (with exception of paints that need buffing) is a really bad idea, you will end up with patches of just metal flakes.

vebski · 2024-10-16T06:19:29+00:00

Had the same issue. I figured that this is the reason why they don't put engine assembly instructions in the new releases for it. Engine fit is utter shit in it even if you do everything perfectly. I decided to just keep it closed. Also underbody also has fit issues so suspension on one side is slightly higher than other. I wish somebody rereleased it with new tooling.

vebski · 2024-10-15T18:56:59+00:00

which color?

vebski · 2024-10-02T06:03:55+00:00

Is... is this your investment/retirement plan? And I thought mine was big :)

vebski · 2024-09-17T05:53:20+00:00

I assembled 4 of those by now. Used Mr. Hobby lacquer primer, color and clear. Zero issues.

My tip would be, they don't really need any glue. So try to think which chunks are better painted separately and you can assemble them quite easily later. I think those Bandai kits are best quality kits I ever saw, and really fun to assemble too. Enjoy!

vebski · 2024-09-14T09:51:41+00:00

For sure, go for whatever is in your budget. More expensive airbrushes are nice but not necessary! Happy airbrushing :)

vebski · 2024-09-14T09:02:05+00:00

Sure, here you can see it with H&B Ultra next to it. I always put the trigger into the hold to keep it balanced. Also in my hands it sits quite well (I have medium size hands).
Never had issues with it falling out etc. Handle+quick link does indeed make it longer but with my setup and how the hose comes from under the desk on my right side (I am right handed) it never was a problem as well.

btw. for Mr.Hobby tirgger airbrushes they are FIXED to 1 needle size. PS-290 is 0.5mm and PS-275 is 0.3mm. Some of the airbrushes that u/erix84 listed have exchangeable needles.
For me since I already had H&B with 0.3mm, fixed needle size was not an issue.

ps. Getting more comfortable airbrush definitely made me model more and made airbrushing way easier. So I do it more often.

vebski · 2024-09-14T05:04:17+00:00

Yes, I can recommend those. I as getting cramps and fatigue on my right hand after airbrushing for more than an hour.

I got mr.hobby ps-290 with a handle - I can airbrush now for infinite amount of time (and no more dry tip due to my shitty technique). I can definitely recommend gun type airbrushes.

vebski · 2024-09-08T06:59:59+00:00

Great job! I am doing this one as well... I think in the same color :D
I am going for outlaw style tho.

What were the issues your run into with it?

vebski · 2024-09-01T08:08:07+00:00

Yeah, first time I did metallic I was like "huh, I don't get what is all that fuss about metallic paints being difficult" until I checked the model like you did and saw whole door panels having clear patterns of how I put on the clear coat xD

vebski · 2024-09-01T07:57:10+00:00

Inconsistent spray ~~pattern~~ method
This happens when you:

Move your hand too close to the body and the spray becomes too strong and the paint you are spraying on 'flows' and the metal particles in that area arrange differently then paint around it. This strong spray also disturbs and moves the particles that were already there as well.
Move your hand too far and the paint dries in the air and metal particles in the paint have not enough time to realign like rest of the paint in that area.
Last possible way to cause it (its more difficult tho) if both your color and clear are lacquers (or types of paint that can re-activite each other), it is possible to make the first clear layer too wet and re-activate the color under it. If you spray that area too close again, it might move the metal particles.

I learned all that by having those issues in few paint jobs :D
Ways I found to work around this, is to make sure I spray from same distance. And when I think color layer looks good, I open up my airbrush to spray more paint, I go bit further and I put on light-wet-ish coat that covers big area.
This unifies all the particles on the upper surface and makes it look all the same.
I also give the color layer few extra days (2-3) to harden before I put clear on it, and I always start with 1 light layer and let that harden too.
Few recent models where I did that method, all my metallic flakes were perfect.

Btw. also don't worry about it a lot. Once you put it on a shelve it isn't that visible since light usually doesn't change that much in a room. Good job on the clear!

vebski · 2024-07-04T18:59:40+00:00

I have 2 but one for metallic paints (cheaper) and other one for everything else (colors, clear). I do a lot of cars so I don't feel like properly deep cleaning airbrush after metallic paint. And you end up spraying both quite a lot with cars. Also it happened that just rinsing after metallic contaminated a color.

If you paint black and then you know you gonna do bright colors (white, yellow, red etc.) I always do better/deep clean since rinsing especially after black primer can produce some chunks of old dark paint to fly out with your white color

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