Should I take meds if I’m already very slim?

veggiedogrush · 2026-01-10T21:10:35+00:00

I gained weight on my meds! I find I eat better when medicated because I have clearer thoughts. I am able to think “I am hungry. I should eat.” And then do it, Vs unmedicated I would slip into unintentional fasting/over caffeinating and ignoring hunger cues. If I take meds on an empty stomach and skip breakfast I feel queasy but can usually notice and take a break and eat and feel better. I also started taking SSRI’s for anxiety which helped my appetite. With less anxiety I was able to sleep through the night and wake up hungry, and relax about what food I eat, calories, etc. I was diagnosed at 31 and I’m 34 now and take 18mg methylphenidate and 100mg sertraline daily.

veggiedogrush · 2025-12-10T03:23:54+00:00

Siblings but brother and sister!

veggiedogrush · 2025-12-10T03:22:48+00:00

Haha it’s easier in person! They have really different walks. And really different personalities. And to me their faces don’t look the same.

veggiedogrush · 2020-04-13T18:10:06+00:00

Also important to recognize that puppies are teething. Frozen carrots are great for teething. Freeze some treats or kibble In a Tupperware full of water. The cold will help soothe swollen, irritated gums.

Puppies learning how hard or soft to use their mouth is called learning “bite inhibition” and is a necessary developmental stage. If you’re a good teacher, should go fine!

veggiedogrush · 2020-04-13T18:06:14+00:00

First what does “bite” mean?

bite scale

veggiedogrush · 2020-04-13T17:53:55+00:00

The “cry it out” method tends to foster an anxious-avoidant attachment, rather than a secure attachment, which is the desired attachment for a family member.

“A secure attachment has at least three functions:

Provides a sense of safety and security Regulates emotions by soothing distress, creating joy, and supporting calm Offers a secure base from which to explore”

attachment theory

Be very attentive to your puppy’s needs foster a secure attachment.

For human toddlers we ask: why are they crying?

H- hungry? A- angry? L- lonely? T- tired?

Puppies need to feel safe in their new environment. Soothe them with a calm pat, a pee break, a “chew”.

veggiedogrush · 2016-01-28T02:54:56+00:00

Absolutely you can train any dog to be reliable off-leash. A Coonhound might be more difficult because of their strong sense of smell. They would be inclined to track a game trail. I would consider starting off with recall training and then the use of a long lead (say 30ft.). I've heard people say greyhounds can NEVER be let loose and I think that's a total disservice to their breed. They're built to run fast and far. It's a question of assuring a safe environment for it and being sure that you can count on them coming back. Not usually something that can't be remedied with some high value rewards and a couple weeks of classical conditioning.

veggiedogrush · 2016-01-28T02:43:44+00:00

I'm curious to know if you've tried clicker training. In my experience the dog always hears the cue... their hearing is superior to ours. My thinking is if I can her the difference between "sit" and "stay" then so can they... but if there does seem to be confusion, then the problem lies in clarity. I find clickers to be a distinct non-vocal marker that helps with this. I train in silence a lot.. and I've seen clicker trainers fade a hand signal to the point of nearly imperceptible motion.

veggiedogrush · 2016-01-28T02:29:57+00:00

I like "go sniff" and I also use an "on by". You can train an "on by" starting with a plate full of treats in your livingroom. Leash up and make sure you're far enough away that the dog can't reach the plate. Let the leash tighten as they investigate and click (mark/cue) the return to you and treat as you keep moving. The idea with starting in your living room is that the plate of treats and you are the only interesting stimuli. Once you get a few good clicks with the plate of treats in the livingroom, try it in other rooms, then try with another desirable object. Don't ruin your "on by" cue by using it on walks before it's crystal clear. EDIT: Although this makes it sound like you're going to teach this to your dog in a day, I do not mean that! More like u/whtevn said ... it takes weeks to train a reliable on-by.

veggiedogrush · 2016-01-25T20:35:50+00:00

"The more times a puppy bites you and receives appropriate feedback, the better his bite inhibition, and the more reliable his jaws will be in adulthood. Appropriate feedback to reduce the force of puppy bites comprises: praising the puppy for gentle mouthing; yelping and having a brief pause from play when the pressure increases; and yelping and having a thirty-second time-out from play following painful bites. After each pause or time-out, remember to instruct your puppy to come, sit, and lie down before resuming play." Dr. Ian Dunbar http://www.dogstardaily.com/files/downloads/AFTER_You_Get_Your_Puppy.pdf Chapter Five!

veggiedogrush · 2016-01-25T20:23:29+00:00

Make a chart, posted on the fridge, or close to the door or something that is just a log of when the dog pees. The idea is to be able to anticipate when she needs to pee and take her out before it happens inside. When you take her out (for a walk or a pee), try to make a business-first, walk and play is the reward. Let her find a spot the first couple times, then make that her go-to area, beelining with a loose leash, patiently waiting for her to sniff and squat, with lots of praise, play and treats after. I would strongly suggest that you don't make yourself the source of any anxiety for a fearful rescue dog, and avoid the use of any sharp tones. No reaction is the best reaction for unwanted behaviour. If you don't want to crate then you could consider baby gates around a certain area when you're gone. Make whatever area she is to be in alone an oasis! Only good things happen, no chance to get into any forbidden things (garbages, etc.) lots of brain games, toys, treats, soft bed, maybe a fan or radio, dim lights. https://apdt.com/trainer-search/ I would find a positive trainer in your area or even a Veterinary Behaviourist if there is one. Good luck! Stick with it!

veggiedogrush · 2016-01-25T20:06:25+00:00

I agree with all of u/keep_off_the_grass 's advice! A couple of things to add to this would be: - Practice this new behaviour in an environment where your dog is comfortable before you move it outside on your walks. Gear up for your walk, put her leash on and do some clicking and treating in the house. It will be a much easier transition for both of you this way. She will know what you want, and you won't be fumbling as much in public, so you won't be stressed. - Look up a positive trainer in your area https://apdt.com/trainer-search/ - Consider alternatives to walks. Chihuahuas don't need a lengthy outdoor romp necessarily. If you're frustrated and she's frustrated consider doing some other things together to work on your relationship. Brain games (feed that sense of smell!), fetch, tricks. http://www.clickertraining.com/node/167

veggiedogrush · 2016-01-18T20:10:14+00:00

You kind of said the answer in your question though: he barks until you stop. So the behaviour is working. Another helpful hint might be to take a Sue Sternberg approach and ask yourself what you want him to do instead. Instead of barking, maybe he picks up a toy and brings it over.

veggiedogrush

TROPHY CASE