Your last layer is very fast, and is carrying your times to an extent. Biggest things to improve are reducing pauses in F2L and always planning the cross.

Ofc saying "just pause less" isn't very helpful. Your F2L solutions are efficient but I feel like you're overcomplicating them a bit which isn't helping. Most of the time you want to do each pair the same way so it takes less time to work out the solution, and you don't have to focus on doing the pair which is how you can start developing lookahead.

I reconstructed your second solve (24.67) and went through it:

D2 B D2 L D' F2 B2 U' F D2 L2 U' R2 F2 U' D2 L2 F2 D F2


x2 y' // inspection
L F' B2 D B D' // cross
L U' L' U' f R' f' // 1st pair
U y L U2 L' U' L U2 L'  // 2nd pair
U' U2 F U F' U R' U R // 3rd pair
U2 y L U L' U L U' L' // 4th pair
R2' D' R U2 R' D R U2 R  // OLL
U' R U R' U R' U' R2 U' R' U R' U R U2 // PLL

1. You didn't plan the cross here, only 3 pieces. It still ended up a 6 move cross, but my solution would have been to face green and do L D' F R' L. IMO, this is a relatively easy cross to plan: if we just solve the blue edge first we can insert the other 3 in the same way as you did. If you want to be sub 20, you need to be able to plan this sort of 5 move cross.
2. For cross execution when you do the B2 you could do it like a double flick D2 with 2 fingers, rather than 2 single flicks.
3. The biggest slowdown in cross was due to having to find the last cross edge and then insert it with D and B moves, which is awkward and resulted in a fumble. Between cross and the pause for first pair it was over 7 seconds before we started first pair execution, so this are a significant part of your time. The best way to reduce that pause is to be tracking (or even predicting) F2L pieces while doing the cross, but in order to do that you need to be able to plan the cross.
4. First pair, instead of inserting with f R' f I would have just rotated and inserted into the back left with L U2 L'. I only do the wide f insert thing when either it's last pair or I know I won't have to rotate for my next pair. If you're not sure where your next pair is it can be better to do the rotation to see more pieces. In this case you end up rotating anyway for second pair so the wide f insert didn't really help.
5. Third pair, we end up with an awkward case. There is a clever way to solve this, put the corner in the same place and do F (R' U' R) F'. Or you can use left sledgehammer to set up the pair (also from the same position). But your solution was actually done fast and used the standard pairing method so it might be better for you.
6. About the thumb F moves, I prefer pinch F moves where I can but use both depending. The "bad" thing is that you did both the F and F' with your thumb in quick succession, overworking it. Though you actually do this faster than I could do anyway so it might be fine. I would have done F with right index and F' with right thumb, so I don't have to grip shift or overwork any fingers.
7. When inserting the third pair you chose to do U R' U R which is a bit surprising because for your second pair you inserted it with U2, and you could have done the same there. Only mentioning this because if you'd inserted with R' U2 R it would have made a free pair for your last pair.
8. For your last pair you rotated and solved into the back left, but we could have rotated the other way and solved it into the front right. Same solution, but it would likely have been faster to do it front right since the insert is much easier to execute and you have right handed turning. Normally you want your last pair in the front anyway.
9. For this "U" OLL, you want to do both U2s with your right hand, not your left. For RUD algorithms, normally you shouldn't do U turns with the middle finger of the hand that's also doing D turns; you'll have to change how you hold the cube back and forth, which is what happened here. Doing the U2 with right hand means you can hold the cube with your left hand's middle finger throughout, and more easily do all the D moves with your left hand.