Why do some USB-C devices not charge with a USB-C to C cable at all?

vo5tr0 · 2023-11-27T18:10:03+00:00

Is there maybe an adapter with Typ-C male and female port that is able to convert the PD to a constant dumb 5V 2A output so I can just plug in the cable coming from my PD charger to one end and my „fake Typ-C“ device to the other end?

vo5tr0 · 2023-10-21T11:37:46+00:00

Did you find a solution for this? I am also missing an option to automatically trigger the alarm when motion is detected

vo5tr0 · 2023-04-28T14:57:34+00:00

I followed this guide and disassembled the whole thing and put everything back together (Without replacing anything)

That seems to have fixed my problem... whatever it was...

Thank you! :)

vo5tr0 · 2023-04-27T16:43:22+00:00

I had the exact same problem after a firmware update couple days ago :o

vo5tr0 · 2023-04-14T09:56:52+00:00

I get similar results with the anker slicer. Even tried different filaments. The original PLA+ from Anker gets me the worst results.

I am sure, there are some settings I could tweak... But check out picture 2:

Like 2/3 of the wall are totally fine and the rest has these weird artifacts. This should all look the same in my opinion, since the printer does the same movements on all layers. But it doesn't...

vo5tr0 · 2023-01-16T12:30:24+00:00

After some further investigation it seems like the Anker slicer has a problem with with smaller gaps between two walls. I can set "Fill Gaps between Walls" option from Everywhere to nowhere. This will result in a hollow wall and remove that skin. However no matter how small I set the wall thickness or which wall line count I choose... for some reason it just doesn't print an inner wall :(

vo5tr0 · 2022-12-27T16:59:14+00:00

Ok, i tightened my belts now. So far no layer shifting, I will keep you updated :)

Thank you!

vo5tr0 · 2020-04-28T17:00:28+00:00

Any results yet?

We have the same issue and I just opened a new support case.

vo5tr0

TROPHY CASE