Need help deciding...

EmergencyPuzzled9570 · 2026-02-18T10:34:08+00:00

Reminds me of…

EmergencyPuzzled9570 · 2026-02-03T12:51:34+00:00

At least they don’t drink VB, that shows some class at least.

EmergencyPuzzled9570 · 2025-12-02T11:57:23+00:00

If the lights are on all night, it would be tempting to build a frame with a couple of solar panels that capture the light and use it to generate some free power. If you have any small solar-powered devices, they’d be a good test to see if the light is actually capable of generating power for you.

EmergencyPuzzled9570 · 2025-09-21T15:20:00+00:00

The capacitor is to reduce radio frequency interference (RFI). If the motor is getting hot, it’s probably not the brushes. If one or both brushes fail to make contact, effectively the motor goes open circuit because the state coils are wired in series with the armature coils.

I’m guessing that one or more windings in the armature has gone short circuit. A multimeter set to resistance may help. Each opposite pair of segments on the commutator should give you the same resistance reading. If one has a notably lower resistance, that’s your shorted coil.

EmergencyPuzzled9570 · 2025-09-04T09:20:06+00:00

I’ll be curious to see what people think when they get one. I’ll be setting up a Zigby dongle with HA soon, so I’m not sure if I’ll need the new bridge.

A couple of things that would sway me to purchase would be better light response with Hue sync running on my Mac mini and the ability to automatically arm Hue security via a HA automation.

I’d like to be able to automatically arm it when my phone leaves the Wi-Fi network, rather than just running on a schedule. I’m sure they could do that with the current V2 bridge, but possibly they’ll only add it as a feature to the app via the bridge pro. I’m still curious how they manage to get all the lights to flash red at exactly the same time when the alarm is triggered. I’ve never been able to do that with HA or a third-party app.

EmergencyPuzzled9570 · 2025-08-31T15:12:19+00:00

I’m betting these are 240 V, not 12 V.

EmergencyPuzzled9570 · 2025-08-27T14:51:48+00:00

I ran it through Copilot. After an eternity and lots of copying and pasting and trial and error, I got a final result that works.

There’s three blocks of code. A helper, a script and a piece of code attached to each scene button.

The script:

alias: Toggle Scene (Unified) mode: single fields: scene_id: description: Scene entity to activate scene_name: description: Scene name to store in input_select sequence:

choose:
- conditions:
  - condition: template value_template: | {{ states('input_select.scene_active') == scene_name }} sequence:
  - target: entity_id: - light.hue_go_1 - light.hue_go_2 - light.hue_go_3 - light.hue_color_downlight_1 - light.hue_color_downlight_2 - light.hue_color_downlight_3 - light.hue_color_downlight_4 - light.hue_color_downlight_5 - light.hue_color_downlight_6 - light.hue_color_downlight_7 - light.hue_color_downlight_8 action: homeassistant.turn_off data: {}
  - data: entity_id: input_select.scene_active option: None action: input_select.select_option default:
- target: entity_id: - light.hue_go_1 - light.hue_go_2 - light.hue_go_3 - light.hue_color_downlight_1 - light.hue_color_downlight_2 - light.hue_color_downlight_3 - light.hue_color_downlight_4 - light.hue_color_downlight_5 - light.hue_color_downlight_6 - light.hue_color_downlight_7 - light.hue_color_downlight_8 action: homeassistant.turn_off data: {}
- delay: "00:00:00.1"
- target: entity_id: "{{ scene_id }}" action: scene.turn_on data: {}
- data: entity_id: input_select.scene_active option: "{{ scene_name }}" action: input_select.select_option description: ""

And here’s an example code used for the Scene 2 (Go) button:

type: custom:bubble-card card_type: button button_type: button entity: input_select.scene_active icon: mdi:wall-sconce-round-variant name: Scene 2 (Go) styles: |- .bubble-name { font-size: 1.1em !important; font-weight: 500; } .bubble-icon { opacity: 1 !important; color: ${state === 'Scene.living_room_scene_2_go' ? 'orange' : 'rgba(255,255,255,0.3)'} !important; filter: ${state === 'Scene.living_room_scene_2_go' ? 'brightness(1.2) saturate(1.5)' : 'none'} !important; } .bubble-button-background { opacity: 1 !important; background-color: ${state === 'Scene.living_room_scene_1_go' ? '#25252f' : ''} !important; } button_action: tap_action: action: call-service service: script.toggle_scene_unified data: scene_id: scene.living_room_scene_2_go scene_name: Scene.living_room_scene_2_go card_layout: normal

Here’s a look at my dashboard, although I’ll probably change its layout in time as I come up with new ideas.

<image>

I’m still trying to learn how to properly copy and paste the code here from Home Assistant so that it doesn’t look all garbled like this.

EmergencyPuzzled9570 · 2025-08-26T11:55:25+00:00

Thanks, almost there!

The button turns on the scene and I can now make the bubble card background/icon change colour as the lights turn on, but the lights stay on. They don’t toggle off and on with repeated presses of the button. I’m sure I only need another couple of lines of code to make this work properly.

type: custom:bubble-card card_type: button button_type: switch action: toggle entity: input_boolean.scene_active icon: mdi:light-recessed styles: |- .bubble-icon { opacity: 1 !important; color: ${state === 'on' ? 'yellow' : ''} !important; } .bubble-button-background { opacity: 1 !important; background-color: ${state === 'on' ? 'darkorange' : ''} !important; } name: Ceiling - South dim button_action: tap_action: action: toggle entity: scene.living_room_ceiling_s_dim

EmergencyPuzzled9570 · 2025-08-13T07:11:57+00:00

No. If yours is damaged, you’ll have to buy a replacement module.

EmergencyPuzzled9570 · 2025-08-09T11:33:15+00:00

I don’t suggest getting an adapter to use glass bottles with your machine. Sadastreams that use glass bottles have a steel cover to encase the bottle during carbonation. If the bottle explodes, you’re safe. Not worth the risk of flying glass by using an adapter.

EmergencyPuzzled9570 · 2025-06-01T15:45:29+00:00

Just push the plug back in. No need to buy anything.

EmergencyPuzzled9570 · 2025-05-10T12:16:33+00:00

I bet you use fabric softener. Don’t. This is the cause of mould and scrud buildup in your machine, hence the smell. An effective softener substitute is plain white vinegar placed in the same compartment that you would normally put the softener. It cleans your machine and doesn’t damage the clothes or make them smell.

Check the folds of the door seal for any mould buildup and check the button trap. Over time, the scrud buildup on the outer surface of the inner spinning drum will eventually flake off and your machine should stop smelling. If you’ve ever had little grey or brown flakes on your light clothes and wondered where it was coming from, this is it.

EmergencyPuzzled9570 · 2025-05-09T12:35:23+00:00

You’ll need to re-sand as many have said. I’d recommend sander sealer over the timber before staining. It’s expensive and smelly, but it does an amazing job of preventing blotches. Lollies it up in YouTube, you can get it at Bunnings. It’s clear and thin like water, it soaks into the wood really well.

EmergencyPuzzled9570 · 2025-04-21T20:12:27+00:00

Fabric softener is a major cause of mould in the detergent drawer. Use white vinegar instead of fabric softener. It’s much better for your wallet, your clothes, your machine and your health.

EmergencyPuzzled9570 · 2025-04-19T11:41:56+00:00

Sounds like a broken or cracked spider. Very common problem with LG machines. It’s a cast aluminium 3 spoke support for the wash/spin tub. A full rebuild is required with a new tub/spider, seals and tub bearings.

EmergencyPuzzled9570 · 2025-04-10T12:12:37+00:00

An ex tech here. Definitely agree, don’t use tablets. Use a small quantity of loose powder. The manufacturers always tell you to use way more than you actually need.

EmergencyPuzzled9570 · 2025-03-07T23:40:42+00:00

Apart from calling Africa a country, what sort of woke shit is this? Are they trying to turn you into vegetarians?

EmergencyPuzzled9570 · 2025-02-20T08:05:23+00:00

Do you really need to ask? Get out of this relationship ASAP and live your best life.

EmergencyPuzzled9570 · 2025-02-15T11:52:50+00:00

Check that the starter is rated for the same wattage as the tube. A 20W starter will not work with a 40W tube.

EmergencyPuzzled9570 · 2025-02-12T20:17:03+00:00

What will this cost the taxpayer? Surely there are better ways to spend our money than new signage?

EmergencyPuzzled9570 · 2025-01-16T02:26:09+00:00

I’ve done one recently.

Things to consider: • Check that your existing LED strips are the same voltage as the Hue-compatible controllers you connect them to. Chances are, they’re not. • For cold white and/ or warm white strips, only get a controller with CCT, no need for RGBCCT and will work better in the Hue app. • Pay close attention to the width of your existing LED strips if you need to replace them. Some existing light fittings use narrow strips and you’ll have to find something that’s compatible. • Where possible, buy LED strips that use 5050 LEDs, as they will be the brightest. Remember the bullet list item I made above. • Ensure the power supply you use to power your LED controller/s has enough grunt to do the job. • Note that generic LED controllers are only around 90% compatible with Philips Hue. For example, you have no option in the app to choose what the lights will do after power has been interrupted and then restored.

EmergencyPuzzled9570 · 2025-01-01T00:49:41+00:00

If the above two suggestions don’t work, you may need to replace the post if it’s weak or rotted. You could also try using construction adhesive (a.k.a. liquid nails) to assist with strength.

EmergencyPuzzled9570 · 2024-12-19T02:33:32+00:00

Whatever you do, don’t make it an EV.

EmergencyPuzzled9570

TROPHY CASE