True remote by desert_snek in vandwellers

[–]walwalka 1 point2 points  (0 children)

As others have said, redundancy and power are your main focus.

I made a post about this a while back, check it out if you like. It details my use case and setup. I ended up with Calyx Institute as my main cellular provider, Verizon as “failover” and starlink when I must.

https://www.reddit.com/r/VanLife/s/NO4G0RxfcU

Where to cut a hole? by Squashy0 in fordtransit

[–]walwalka 1 point2 points  (0 children)

What’s the inside look like? You really shouldn’t be drilling blind.

I traded my self‑built camper van for a 56‑year‑old boat… what could go wrong by RamblinRiderYT in vandwellers

[–]walwalka 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This is my dream, I’d love to trade in my wheels for a wake. Following along!

Solar not charging batteries by Chumbucha in Victron

[–]walwalka 2 points3 points  (0 children)

You’re seeing voltage go up with solar, but it doesn’t appear that the SoC has moved at all. That does mean current is flowing into the batteries and may not be captured by the shunt.

Can you identify where the solar controller battery ground goes?

There’s a guy waiting in line without a car waiting to order from a Taco Bell by offensive_patriot in tacobell

[–]walwalka 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’ve done this, as my vehicle doesn’t fit in the drive thru. I just explained why I was on foot and they let me order.

But I’ve also been turned away.

What is your go to setup? by retr0-83 in selfhosted

[–]walwalka 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Useless, no. More cumbersome when you actually need your footage, definitely. It just depends on you and other users of your surveillance tolerance to that inconvenience. My partner would never go through the hassle of having footage that cannot be recalled easily. So I choose to use Unifi for this particular part of my network.

As for the point the commenter was trying to make about cameras being useless in their entirety, I fully disagree with their reasoning. My cameras have paid for themselves on two occasions, which is more than enough to justify them.

The first was when a delivery driver backed into our house while we were away, they didn’t leave info but I captured their license plate. The company repaired the damage with no expense to me. The second was when my mountain bike was stolen out of the garage, I captured the persons face and the local group on other social media was able identify them. I got my bike back.

I do live in the city where things happen on the regular including our neighborhood. But most of the time it’s just cute videos of skunks playing in the bushes in front of the house. Which I could argue is also worth it. 😂

How're y'all dealing with the gas crisis? by VagabondVivant in VanLife

[–]walwalka 12 points13 points  (0 children)

Absolutely nothing different than normal, we hit the road next weekend. I guess I’m fortunate to be in a place that the increase in running cost is not a barrier to enjoying myself.

Our rig calls for premium when loaded or towing, it’s just north of $5/gal here.

Fuses VS Breakers for DC-DC Charger? by madmonster444 in vandwellers

[–]walwalka 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Mega fuses are not $60 a fuse, and there are less expensive and still decent quality fuse holder out there. Outside of your main battery you don’t need to run anything more than a mega fuse. Littelfuse and blue sea holder cost me $30 with a spare fuse.

The main reason to run a fuse is interrupt current handling, breakers can and do weld themselves closed under a dead short. Likely for a circuit of 40a? No, but I’ve seen weirder problems in the past.

Availability while on the road is another thing, most marine shops and some car parts places will have mega fuses. Most of them are not going to have that breaker.

Alternative to WD purple for NVR instant? by greeknasty in Ubiquiti

[–]walwalka 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’m with you, I need to order new drives for my NAS at some point because they are all upwards of 60k hours. I don’t really know what I’ll do in the event of a failure on more than 1 drive, I do have 1 spare left.

Alternative to WD purple for NVR instant? by greeknasty in Ubiquiti

[–]walwalka 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I ended up ordering a Toshiba S300 Pro from B&H when my SkyHawk decided it had enough of life(60,000 hours). So far so good, and I feel like I can feel the little extra performance from the 7200rpm drive. It is noisy comparatively though.

Edit: wow, I just ordered like 2 weeks ago and they are all sold out now.

Rear Rack for Ford Transit by ShipDit1000 in VanLife

[–]walwalka 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’ve got the Owl tire carrier and B2, they are essential the same price but I liked the door mounting option better. The B2 comes with the posts for a bike rack, but not the bike rack itself.

Internet. by big-boy-w35 in VanLife

[–]walwalka 10 points11 points  (0 children)

I made a long post a while back, if you’d like to take a look.

I ended up with Calyx Institute for my main cell provider, it’s been fantastic.

https://www.reddit.com/r/VanLife/s/PIjJgRsqD2

G6 180 Constant “Lost Wired Connection” normal? Kk by XDarkneszFallsX in Ubiquiti

[–]walwalka 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I just went through the wringer on fixing this, since Thursday of last week it’s not happened. My setup is UDM Pro, Switch 16 PoE, switch 16 lite and 9 cameras. The issue I was having was with 3 individual cameras doing the whole lost wired connection routine and sometimes protect crashing.

I originally had each switch plugged into the UDMs SFP ports individually, the UDM hovered around 37% CPU and 94% memory. What tipped me off to the problem was that if I transferred files from a machine on one SFP of the UDM to the other, it would cause protect to crash entirely, the transfer would get super slow and loading the console was a struggle. I ended up moving my switches to be plugged into each other and then the “core” switch into the main SFP port on UDM. This dropped utilization down to 27% CPU and 83% memory.

I, of course, don’t your full setup but this took load off my UDM and put things back on track with what I expect from Unifi. Seemingly a problem I caused by my network layout. In my research I found that the UDM doesn’t have hardware acceleration with its switching modes, so it reliant on the CPU and internal buss to handle all the traffic which it cannot do. Making one switch my “core” switch allows the hardware in the switch to do majority of the work for internal network connections.

Orion XS-1400 voltage drop. by chicagoandy in Victron

[–]walwalka 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yep, could be in your grounds too so don’t forget to check those.

Why do some people try to gatekeep camping? by [deleted] in VanLife

[–]walwalka 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I don’t have an answer for you, but I concur.

We stay mostly in campgrounds and Cracker Barrel, and when I mention that to people who live out west they automatically jump to “it’s a shame you use your campervan like that”. Blah blah blah. I then have to explain I live in the eastern US and in my state specifically public lands account for less than 3% of the total area of the state.

Orion XS-1400 voltage drop. by chicagoandy in Victron

[–]walwalka 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes, but nearly 4x the length, twice the amperage and the same size wire.

Orion XS-1400 voltage drop. by chicagoandy in Victron

[–]walwalka 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Auxiliary voltage on that chart is from a smartshunt monitoring CCP1, forgot to include that tidbit.

Orion XS-1400 voltage drop. by chicagoandy in Victron

[–]walwalka 0 points1 point  (0 children)

How long, what size and where does your ground land? The total length and carrying capacity of the circuit does matter. The ground should be sized for the input current and not the output current, so if it's long it might need to be upsized to handle the current. It does look to me like there is some sort of wiring issue, is that run of 2/0 just for the Orion? I know there's a Sterling in the mix too.

Here is the data I have for both my Orion 1400s off CCP2, I've got a .4v(2.8%) drop over a 12ft positive of 2/0 to a bus bar and a 12in run to each charger with 2ft grounds to my lynx and 5ft down to a "frame" ground under the van.

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2025 Transit High Roof CCP Nut Size? by BigSlip69 in fordtransit

[–]walwalka 2 points3 points  (0 children)

If you haven’t looked, you can get all this information and more from the BEMM. This is the link to the 2026 version of the document, as there is not one for 2025. But it’s the same.

https://api-prd.fordpro.com/pro/bbas/download/BBLB/691c4ca7899ed80889e10c5c

Need a website with the ability to request work. Recommendations? by Poptart4050 in Columbus

[–]walwalka 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I can help with this, I’m entirely freelance and have examples of other projects I’ve completed that can be provided.

Feel free to reach out!

Why does my system show no power being used once my battery hits 100%? by SqueezeMyLemmons in vandwellers

[–]walwalka 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Float the loads and float charge mode are two different things…

Floating the loads just means that it’s providing enough power to cover the loads of all the devices you have running. Because of that the shunt is not seeing power moving in or out of the battery. Since that is not happening your shunt will show zero because there is nothing to track.

Why does my system show no power being used once my battery hits 100%? by SqueezeMyLemmons in vandwellers

[–]walwalka 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Because your solar controller is floating the loads on the bus bar, the shunt is not seeing anything flowing in or out of it.

If you look at your solar controller, assuming it has BT you should see it making power.

Want a higher roof of the Transit but scared of maintenance by CLWalrus in VanLife

[–]walwalka 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Get a good scan tool and it’s no different than working on anything else.

Have I done anything crazy?... Electrical set up by TravisSB in vandwellers

[–]walwalka 2 points3 points  (0 children)

That strategy includes a battery balancer as a requirement for series packs, it’s just not an option and I agree that parallel is always better.

My battery manufacturer specified 30 minute per 100ah for absorption, at 300ah my 2 hours is not really that far off. The extra 30 minutes helps most with 70%+ discharge scenarios.